From what I have been reading online it seems that it is possible but more difficult in resizing because steel is harder than brass.
The biggest concern to me would be that it seems that the vast majority of the steel cases seem to have berdan primer pockets. I guess my only option would be to drill out the old primer and make new pockets and line the diameter with copper tubing... UGH.
I reload for my Ruger Ranch 7.62x39. I think the steel cases are designed for Berdan primers. However, brass 7.62x39 is not expensive. I bought a couple hundred Starline cases easy enough. Nevertheless, I might be a little leery about reloading for an autoloading rifle and that Wolf ammo is less expensive than reloading.
It's possible. But it presents its unique set of problems. Like already said you can get brass. The problem with that is that combloc weapons chew the shit out of brass. Also keep in mind that unless immediately cleaned after firing the casings will rust. You can't just leave them sitting around uncleaned like brass. I think tula ammo tends to be boxer primed but for berdan stuff you could use something like the "russian reloads" system. And of course, if you can find them you can use berdan primers.
Until very recently 7.62x39 steel could be purchased new cheaper than it could be reloaded. That left the only reason to reload 7.62x39 to get loads that weren't commercially available. For that you probably want brass anyway.
If in the future it makes sense to reload steel, I've got some empties stashed away. But for now it just sits there.
I do have a bit of the hoarder gene though, so YMMV.
WARNING: If you are new to reloading and don't understand 100% reloading with its pros and cons do not experiment
out of your comfort zone or ask an experienced reloaded to help.
Safety always comes first.
I have reloaded steel cases to prove it can be done and it works fine but there are some pros and cons like with anything.
There is little point wiht the cost of once fired brass that one can adquire for little or even virtually free at the recycling
bin but it might come handy.
Why I have loaded steel case?
A) To prove it can be done in an emergency.
B) detect any defects or potential safety risks.
C) I have some loaded ammunition to take into the woods where it is hard to recover brass in the leaves, mud, snow, etc... so
one doesn't have to discard or loose good quality brass and steel is somewhat biodegradable.
What you need to consider:
A) Make sure the cases have standard boxer primers since berdan are very complex no matter if it is brass or steel.
B )Make sure the cases have been recovered from a dry and somewhat clean environment as these cases should not be washed
as the risk of setting rust.
C) Make sure cases are free major dents or kinks tipical of certain firearms like AKM style or SIG autoloaders that are very hard on brass.
D) Make sure the case is fairly clean inside and out and only wiping any dust or debris that might damage the dies and use
natural lube like wax or canola oil w/o care not to get any iside teh case and wipe clean after sizing. avoid water based lubricants. mica is ok.
Do not tumble these cases as you want to protect the lacquering on the outside.
E) FL resizing only and Make sure the neck / coal is within tolerance after FL sizing in order to avoid any trimming that should
be avoided to preserve the lackering layer and the trimmer. if you must do it then use a hardware tool that you can sharpen.
F) Same thing for the primer pockets if they need some beveling to assist with primer.
G) the pocket should be clean with simple a bit of paper towel as to keep oils away from it same as the inside that might be
a bit smokey but make sure otheriwse there are no debris or anything that can react with powders or primers.
H) Reload standard bullets at low to medium chargers and avoid any sort of hot loads.
I) Put a factory crimp as there is no way to assure consistent neck tension so this helps with that and prevent bullet offset.
J) Do not reload more than once.
K) If one is thinking about reloading steel for whatever reason stick to known previously tested cases and a new budget
FL die is cheap (like 20 bucks) so use one of those and not a match die and will give a lifetime of reloads using proper lube
so the cost a cheap die might be offset with the cost of one or two boxes of ammo depending on what one is shooting
and local prices. Again other than the curisosity aspect of it I don't see a huge range of application but there might be
situations like also if one cannot find specialy, obscure or obsolete round that might be available only in spent steel cases
at the time.
Whipe clean the final rounds and might to add a bit of liquid wax and wipe clean to help preserve. Pack safely and enjoy
shooting. Do not store for long periods as the cases were not clean inside.
same applies to pistol rounds and also aluminum if they are good quality cases.
If you can recover the cases from mud of debris pick them and dispose accordingly so we don't litter but in any case is
mostly iron that will rust, breakdown and return back to the soil so it is not too bad as lead.