Ruger American Upgrades

Discussion in 'Long Guns - Rifles & Shotguns' started by SmallGameAddict, May 13, 2018.

  1. SmallGameAddict

    SmallGameAddict .223 Rem

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    Drone to check targets, great idea. Should hear/see metal plates react tho-unless they're trying to sight in for 1000 yards. That's the hard way.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2018 at 8:31 AM
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  2. SmallGameAddict

    SmallGameAddict .223 Rem

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    Power lines on Miner.
     
  3. Jaywmustang

    Jaywmustang .223 Rem

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    Farm on miner. But that is pretty close to the road and neighbors. We might pull it in a little bit.
     
  4. SmallGameAddict

    SmallGameAddict .223 Rem

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    If we buy the land we want next year, I'll set up a 1000 yard range. A lot of clearing with a dozer, but you can use the fill, trees and brush to make one hell of a backstop.
     
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  5. Jaywmustang

    Jaywmustang .223 Rem

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    Nice. Relatively flat?
     
  6. SmallGameAddict

    SmallGameAddict .223 Rem

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    Yes sir. Tough call tho. Swampy. I'd rather drag big bucks out.
     
  7. SmallGameAddict

    SmallGameAddict .223 Rem

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    You're prob talking Bernadelli's farm.
     
  8. Jaywmustang

    Jaywmustang .223 Rem

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    Bontadelli. Yes sir
     
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  9. SmallGameAddict

    SmallGameAddict .223 Rem

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    Always wondered how they spelled that.
     
  10. Jaywmustang

    Jaywmustang .223 Rem

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    It’s not a common name lol. Good people
     
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  11. SmallGameAddict

    SmallGameAddict .223 Rem

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    Well, after some 'dry-fire' practice to get accustomed to my new trigger pull adjustment (3-1/2 lb pull weight), these are my impressions. First, a few words about the trigger mechanicals.

    The trigger is easily adjustable from the factory, and by removing the stock (wish it was accessible without disassembly), there is an easily accessible screw to adjust the pull weight. This requires an allen/hex wrench or similar tool. Turn the screw out (counterclockwise)-reduced pull weight, inward, increased pull weight. What you are actually doing is compressing or decompressing a spring that regulates tension on the trigger, making the force required to pull it rearward easier or harder. The trigger has two built-in 'anti-liability' safety features. First, there is a spring-loaded blade in the center of it that blocks the trigger and prevents it from inadvertently moving rearward in the event the rifle is dropped or jarred suddenly, so the tip of your finger must compress this blade before trigger movement can begin. In other words, a deliberate pull of the trigger is required for the rifle to discharge. For various reasons of personal preference, not one of my fave features, but it is what it is, times being what they are. The owner's manual states that the pull weight is adjustable from 3-5 lbs, and that it takes 6 full turns for adjustment from one extreme to the other. The trigger is designed in such a way that it will always have a minimum 3 lb. pull, and increasing the pull weight beyond 5 lbs. can result in improper function of the trigger.

    The second thing I noticed after adjustment is that as you DECREASE pull weight, you INCREASE trigger travel. In other words, as you decrease the
    pull weight, and decompress/lengthen the spring, the trigger must travel farther for the trigger to release the hammer and discharge the rifle. I believe that this is designed in as a safety feature, so that the lighter the setting, the farther the trigger must travel to discharge the rifle. As you decompress the spring and it lengthens, the first bit of trigger travel is compressing the spring BEFORE the trigger begins to exert force on the lever(s) necessary for the hammer to drop and strike the firing pin, similar to a 2-stage trigger, except that there is no easily discernible 'wall' when you reach the point where you are beginning to exert force on the lever, instead of just the spring. In fact, if you listen carefully while dry-firing, you can hear the spring compressing. This results in a trigger with a somewhat 'spongy' feel. Note that this does not GREATLY increase trigger travel, likely less than 1/32". Since the trigger is adjustable from 3-5 lbs., logic would suggest the best 'compromise' setting between pull weight and travel would be a 4 lb. setting, but I have not confirmed this. Removing the stock, adjusting the trigger, checking the average pull weight with a trigger pull gauge, replacing the stock and torquing the stock screws repeatedly gets tedious, and I don't want to do it every day, over and over. This is THE reason I wish it was externally adjustable.

    To sum up, the 3-1/2 lb. pull on my rifle is much improved, but the increased trigger travel necessary for the rifle to discharge annoys me slightly. Perhaps I am just being too picky for a modern stainless rifle available over the counter for less than $500 in these 'liability conscious' times. To focus on the positive, over travel is very reasonable, and there is only the slightest hint of 'creep' from time to time, which over time and use would probably be eliminated by the metal surfaces 'breaking-in' and 'honing' each other. I just KNOW the Timney would be crisper, as it should be, for $129.74, plus $7.50 S&H. Maybe someday.

    Edit: I think the next time my stock is off, I will increase the pull weight a 1/2 turn of the screw, to help eliminate the 'sponginess'. I'm willing to trade 1/4-1/2 lb. heavier pull weight for a crisper feel and let-off.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2018 at 12:02 PM
  12. SmallGameAddict

    SmallGameAddict .223 Rem

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    Well, I couldn't help myself boys. I just had to know. Disassembled, adjusted trigger 1/2 turn increase, reassembled. Much less travel, and much less 'spongy'. According to my trigger pull gauge, a very consistent 3-3/4 lb. pull weight. This pull weight is at the upper limit of what I consider desirable for any type of deer hunting beyond 100 yards. Done.

    Update: After dry firing the rifle literally dozens of times, I feel that the above adjustment reduced excessive travel and therefore 'sponginess' by about 85%+. Much crisper. Although I value my time, I got all that for a total of maybe 40 minutes or so of my time, using mechanical aptitude, knowledge, appropriate caution, and the correct tools for the job. Net out of pocket cost to me-$0.

    I now feel that if I purchased the Timney trigger assembly, I would get maybe $50 in performance improvement (3 lb. pull weight, a touch less travel) out of the $129.74 cost of the product, not including shipping. The money would be better spent on the sunshade and lens caps, which cost about the same.

    As a side note, I feel I did not stress safety enough. I made absolutely sure the rifle was unloaded before starting the work, and the rifle was safety checked for proper function after the work was completed. The hammer will drop ONLY after the safety is released AND with an intentional pull of the trigger.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2018 at 5:31 PM
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  13. BDinPutnam

    BDinPutnam .44 mag

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    I would have to look at the manual again as I haven't monkeyed with the trigger yet but that sounds exactly like the mechanics of the Mossberg Lightning-whatever trigger in my MVP. I like the weight enough where it is right now and have a bunch of other projects going on but will probably play with it a bit at some point- it feels a little lighter than I want it (for a .308 patrol rifle with an 18" bbl). Nice write up.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2018 at 6:00 PM
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  14. SmallGameAddict

    SmallGameAddict .223 Rem

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    Thanks. I try to pass along knowledge and experience when and where I can, maybe save someone else time and trouble.
     
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