SmallGameAddict
.308 Win
This might belong on another thread, but I'm going to post it here to make it easier to find.
Scope Basics:
The pupil in the human eye expands and contracts constantly to allow the right amount of light in, so that you can see sharpest and clearest, in color. Midday sun outdoors and your pupil is a pinpoint. In complete darkness your pupil dilates to a maximum of about 7mm. That affects your scope's exit pupil requirements, and to a degree the objective lens diameter you require, based on magnification and time of day you hunt. Ideally you want as much, or more of your scope's exit pupil to match the diameter of your eye's pupil. The exit pupil of a scope is determined by dividing the objective lens diameter by the magnification. A 3-9x40 will have an exit pupil of 13.33mm at 3x, and 4.44mm at 9x, useful for sunrise to sunset, even at 9x, because the scope's exit pupil is about the same as the diameter of your eye pupil for that time of day. Also, the larger the exit pupil the easier it is to find a useful image more quickly, essential for a fast handling deer rifle in the timber. The scope is supplying all of the available light that your eye can use for highest image quality. The higher the magnification you need, the larger the objective lens diameter you need. The less available light, the larger the objective lens you need.
The magnification you require depends on the size of your target, and the distance to your target, and your rifle/cartridge capabilities. You need more magnification to shoot a woodchuck at distance than you do an elk, but a 4.5-14x56 will never turn a 30/30 into a .300 Win Mag.
A 1" scope tube diameter is useful to about 600 yards, because of available internal adjustments. Shoot a rifle with a 1" tube far enough, and you will run out of the elevation adjustment needed to hit your target. You can use a 1" tube scope farther than this by using a '20 MOA' scope base. It works by angling your scope downwards in relation to your rifle's barrel close to 21" (true MOA of 1.047") at 100 yards. Using the new base and scope, suddenly it appears that your rifle is shooting 21" high, so you need to down adjust it about 20 MOA to sight it in at 100 yards. This makes most of your scope's elevation adjustment 'up' adjustment. 'Up' adjustment is a long range shooters best friend. 30mm tubes give you about twice the internal adjustment vs. a 1" tube. Useful from 0 yards out to 900 yards and more. Additionally, a scope has it's sharpest, brightest image when adjusted as close to optical center as possible, meaning when the windage and elevation adjustments are exactly halfway each from maximum, therefore a 30mm tube scope will give you a higher quality image over those ranges.
Scopes without externally adjustable turrets, or some type of Bullet Drop Compensating reticle, are basically Maximum Point Blank Range scopes. Basic 1" tube 3-9x40, great deer scope on a 30/06 or similar from 0-300 yards or so. 3x for the woods, 9x at the range for sighting in, or longer hunting ranges. Add a BDC reticle or external adjustments, 0-600 yards useful range, or more, depending on tube size/mount base, magnification, rifle, and cartridge used. Rifle accuracy, and available cartridge power, determine your maximum range for a clean kill on a deer. There is no such thing as a 'wounded' steel plate.
Buy the best quality scope you can afford, based on your requirements, but not more features than you need. That way the extra money spent goes towards higher quality lenses, lens coatings, and more precise internal adjustments.
Scope Basics:
The pupil in the human eye expands and contracts constantly to allow the right amount of light in, so that you can see sharpest and clearest, in color. Midday sun outdoors and your pupil is a pinpoint. In complete darkness your pupil dilates to a maximum of about 7mm. That affects your scope's exit pupil requirements, and to a degree the objective lens diameter you require, based on magnification and time of day you hunt. Ideally you want as much, or more of your scope's exit pupil to match the diameter of your eye's pupil. The exit pupil of a scope is determined by dividing the objective lens diameter by the magnification. A 3-9x40 will have an exit pupil of 13.33mm at 3x, and 4.44mm at 9x, useful for sunrise to sunset, even at 9x, because the scope's exit pupil is about the same as the diameter of your eye pupil for that time of day. Also, the larger the exit pupil the easier it is to find a useful image more quickly, essential for a fast handling deer rifle in the timber. The scope is supplying all of the available light that your eye can use for highest image quality. The higher the magnification you need, the larger the objective lens diameter you need. The less available light, the larger the objective lens you need.
The magnification you require depends on the size of your target, and the distance to your target, and your rifle/cartridge capabilities. You need more magnification to shoot a woodchuck at distance than you do an elk, but a 4.5-14x56 will never turn a 30/30 into a .300 Win Mag.
A 1" scope tube diameter is useful to about 600 yards, because of available internal adjustments. Shoot a rifle with a 1" tube far enough, and you will run out of the elevation adjustment needed to hit your target. You can use a 1" tube scope farther than this by using a '20 MOA' scope base. It works by angling your scope downwards in relation to your rifle's barrel close to 21" (true MOA of 1.047") at 100 yards. Using the new base and scope, suddenly it appears that your rifle is shooting 21" high, so you need to down adjust it about 20 MOA to sight it in at 100 yards. This makes most of your scope's elevation adjustment 'up' adjustment. 'Up' adjustment is a long range shooters best friend. 30mm tubes give you about twice the internal adjustment vs. a 1" tube. Useful from 0 yards out to 900 yards and more. Additionally, a scope has it's sharpest, brightest image when adjusted as close to optical center as possible, meaning when the windage and elevation adjustments are exactly halfway each from maximum, therefore a 30mm tube scope will give you a higher quality image over those ranges.
Scopes without externally adjustable turrets, or some type of Bullet Drop Compensating reticle, are basically Maximum Point Blank Range scopes. Basic 1" tube 3-9x40, great deer scope on a 30/06 or similar from 0-300 yards or so. 3x for the woods, 9x at the range for sighting in, or longer hunting ranges. Add a BDC reticle or external adjustments, 0-600 yards useful range, or more, depending on tube size/mount base, magnification, rifle, and cartridge used. Rifle accuracy, and available cartridge power, determine your maximum range for a clean kill on a deer. There is no such thing as a 'wounded' steel plate.
Buy the best quality scope you can afford, based on your requirements, but not more features than you need. That way the extra money spent goes towards higher quality lenses, lens coatings, and more precise internal adjustments.