meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
The AR15 is an inherently accurate firearm.
No matter what brand, what components most of them are capable of pretty good accuracy in many calibers.
This is proof and testament to Stoner's design with a bolt, group and stock in line with the bore and why also
bolt action tube guns are so accurate and popular.
Often we see out of the box ARs that are capable of amazing accuracy and with consistency in line with accurate
bolt action rifles.
But if one is looking for accuracy and repeatable consistency there are a few simple things one needs to take
into account to increase the chances of getting the right recipe.
Like all recipes the brands of the condiments can change and one can play a little with a personal touch but I think
one must consider some simple points that will help getting the wanted results.
Be ready to invest a bit extra in some key components.
Please chime in with your ideas, tips and tricks.
These are some AR accuracy key directives.
- A good barrel and bolt. (The beating heart of the AR).
Currently we are blessed with many good quality barrels. Some of the barrel makers have been doing this for decades and now they are offering AR barrels many
times with matched bolts to assure both quality and tight fit specially in match barrels. I found Krieger and Lothar Walther to be excellent barrel makers with amazing
bores and precise chambering jobs. Whether the job is done by their custom shop or another shop using their blanks it must be done with the same care as when
chambering accurate bolt action rifles. A self respected gun smith will at least offer a matched bolt to assure a perfect match as we know we have tolerances and
they will be trying to give you the best match both in terms of dimensions and quality of materials as well as making sure everything is perfectly squared.
They normally chamber pointing form the bore so everything is perfectly concentric and true. Other great barrels include lilja, bartlein, rock and shilen match among
a few others. Those makers have great deals and one doesn't have to spend a fortune to make sure the barrels are well made and capable. A great example are ARP
barrels that can produce consistent 1/2MOA accuracy. I have a few of those and one 6.8 in 18" that can challenge any high end bolt rifle any time anywhere. ARP comes
with a nice bolt that we all already know are superior to the average offering out there. The barrel should have a well cut target crown or if threads are needed
avoid 1/2" threads at all cost. Even with the 22 caliber bore there is not enough material to support the bore from swelling towards the end. This will hapeen dinamically
with heat and overtime will swell with pressure and accuracy will suffer. 1/2" threads should have never existed in any caliber.
Lothar Walther LW50 the best polygonal barrels the money can buy and they will build you whatever you want.
They ask for precise dimensions and specs. You have to wait for their custom shop up to 3 or 4 months but they always get it done and get it right.
No mistakes, no excuses, no BS just pure quality... They also have great deals on precut ready to go barrels for popular calibers.
Krieger barrels are among the best barrels out there too. Their 5R rifling is amazing.
ARP barrels great value some with out of this world repeatable accuracy....
Wilson Combat Barrels.
I have inspected them closely and see what they can do. Amazing cuts and very pricise chambering jobs.
Their store offer everything you need for quality ARs.
-Bolt and group.
The most important thing about an AR is the heart of the AR that is having good quality internals. Being a Direct Impingement system this is where the quality and therefore the
budget should concentrate on. We do not need to be spending a fortune for who knows what improvement but also stay away from discount/kit deals with cuts and materials of
questionable origin and reputation. As I said a good maker might offer a bolt to match the barrel and accuracy job. These might come to be squared and true with
a tighter fit. As we fire the firearm everything will loose up a little but we do not want to start with something that is already too lose specially on the breach end.
Good quality extractors and ejectors resistance free are needed for optimal operation.
-Quality trigger.
This is another component of the AR guts that must be of good quality and adjusted to the shooters demand. My preference is a nice two stage trigger with zero creep
and clean, predictable precise break. I set up some to be 1/2lb or less so you can literally break by breathing on them but I do not suggest something like this for
anything tactical and due to liabilities. Here we have many great options. Some rally expensive but not really needed. Lots of tacticool stuff that adds nothing but
dollars to the bill. A simple yet effective 2 stage Geiselle will give us what we want. Even the popular Rock River national match with some tuning will do the same
other triggers costing 3 times will do. make sure the hammer surface is polished and mates well with the carrier to assure proper function w/o disruption. Don't need to go crazy lapping those parts but a bit of attention pays off. Also make sure the springs are the right ones and adjusted. I found many folks with springs crazy tight and interfering with their trigger, hammer and cycling.
-Receivers and brands.
The brands are not important as soon the parts are up to spec and they are just the shell. A brand might mean something but might also mean you spent more for nothing.
however there are some brands that are known to offer good quality billets with pretty tight fits. I found SI defense and Mega to produce very tight fits. I have a few of those.
But I also have great fits with regular DPMS receivers bought from the fulton armory and other places so I think here one has to use good judgement. As I am sure there
are good others but remember paying more for tacticool names and logos with sculls and bones might mean nothing towards accuracy.
One thing that is important aside form a good mating of the recievers is to make sure the upper reciever has a tight fit with the barrel. When mounting the barrel in the upper
receiver it is a great opportunity to square off the receiver. Don't need to go crazy but this along with a tight fit of all part is yet another step towards accuracy.
Also make sure you use a good quality barrel nut and this will also depend on the rails / handguard option that must be a free floating system.
-Gas blocks.
As we know many steel alloys and specially those used to make barrels are hard metals but they are still somewhat flexible and malleable otherwise they will be too brittle.
After trying many options through the years I found that a tight, good quality clamp type gas block can provide a perfect seal of gases yet very easy to install and maintain.
Unlike setscrews and pins the clamp provides even pressure all around and will stay put if properly installed. I like to use stainless ones or same material of the barrel.
Some claim the T6 material can walk and it is true the aluminum dialates at a different rate the steel in barrels but if properly installed with good design and using blue
locktite(always) and even some small pressure washers this will not move. ACE hardware is your best friend for anything needed.
I also like the block with a very tight gas tube fit. We have some great options of clamp blocks from Midwest, Badger and others but I found one maker call BTE in some
models you really have to press hard to get the gas tube in. I also use a minute drop of blue locktite and get zero leaking anywhere. some of BTE cuts provide an adjustable
screw that I replace but a spring loaded one from AC so still can adjust and will not walk, ever. a bit blue locktite will seal too but it is nice to have the spring too so
we know we can use it as intended to finely tune the pressure and timing. I also make sure I get a good fit on the gas key. I have a expander punch to make sure there
is no much gas leaking until the carrier is propelled. Another area that is a concern is the timing of the gas rings on the bolt. Normally I have no issues with this but have
successfully tried coil rings that help mitigate that issue.
-Harguards, tubes and how they work.
One thing you need for an accurate AR is a free float handguard. Here is an area where one has to consider the needs for long term use like potentially use a front sight mounted
on the rail or rail for attachments but where one could be spending a lot for nothing. You see, one of the weakest points of the AR is the section where the threads meat the
upper reciever block. One can find larger beefed up receivers like MEga, LAR, Seekings for example, but even some a bit harder aluminum alloy but in the end there is so much it can be done there because the measures are standard (they have to be) so if one put enough down pressure on a handguard the receiver will flex a little there, no much, but this will translate in barrel movement.
This can be seen when shooting prone in improvised positions like facing a bit downhill and we might be putting more pressure on the guard and bipod than we normally do. some of these
shots in tactical shots result a bit high and the reason why is, probably unknowgnly, too much down force on the rifle.
Monolitic systems mitigate this to some degree or another depending on design but a simple way to reduce this is to choose a handguard with a top rail and then mate the two
rails of the upper reciever to the handguar. NEVER use the optical rail system to do this our you will be interfering with your optics. Use a quality cantilever mount for
your optics (more of that later ) and then a simple coupler or shallow raiser to relieve that tension in case that occurs. This will not fix the problem but will defenetly help reduce that
effect for most people and most uses.
Expensive Brands mean nothing here. Pickup something that works well with a good barrel nut and with a quality cut well vented preferably and save your money for other more worthy
investment.
-Stocks and General Ergonomics
This is an area that is paramount. Adjustments on LOP(length of pull) and comb height (Cheek raisers) are paramount. And this will depend on the individual complexity and choice of
optics but before we go and invest in these two lets work with this simple idea: The rifle and optics configuration has to be flexible and change to fit you and not the other way around.
A good way is to go down on the rifle and find a good position with your eyes closed. Don't fall asleep if you find it too cozy! lol. But really go down sitting and prone in
your living room if you have to and get a feeling for the entire rifle. bring a tape of ruler with you to meausre some parts you might already have like mounts and scopes
just for reference. I find the magpul PRS to be a good value for the money. It is not perfect, it is a tad butt heavy (a plus for me) but it is well made and have some easy
adjustments. Once I have that I find a good mount around 1.2" from the base and then make sure they are strong and solid for a quality scope. If I have irons normally I use for backup
so I most likely go for a folding type on the light side. I do zero and make sure are reasonably functional and accurate up to 200-300 yards. But since the goal for this system
might be extreme accuracy and might involve long shots then the glass is the key. When I mount the optics and before I level the scope (not the wheeler system, it doesn't work) I
try to get as much of the ergonomics right. Grip, controls, stock and then scope position. After I pre-mount the scope w/o torking all the way I close my eyes again find my
cozy positiioin and when I open my eyes the scope clear picture must be there. I will have to adjust the ocular piece, move the mount or the scope and adjust a big cheek raiser
until I feel I can come back to that postion instintively. In the end this doesn't differ much from one rifel to another whether is AR, R700 or other and I gravitate towards the same
tipy of geometrics, and adaptable stocks no matter what rifle. I use the same scopes for the same purposes in many rifles. I mean I use the same model just keep bying the same scopes
and do not play with compromising the zero unless is a rifle I am going to change or retire.
For a lighter rifle I found the mako to give a decent feedback but I do bolt them because a loose stock (It comes with the adjustable feature) doesn't give me
the kind of feedback I want...
The whitley stock offers some nice adjustments and weights for balancing but cheek raising is more complex and will require extra pieces
and/or padding.
Whatever the option remember that ones goal is not how pretty it is but how functional it is. And duck tape or hockey tape
are your best friends. Inexpensive and functional. Padding can be done with hobby foam sheets from the hobby store.
-Mounts and optics
(will post more later)
you see is not about little cut outs of cherry picked groups to later post online but knowing that no matter where and how you shoot
you can easily project where the bullet is going to impact and do that over and over again w/o interference. Something that is very
rewarding and nice to have and useful whether you compete or hunt or simply for fun.
The AR can be a very accurate rifle. But if you want to assure accuracy and repeatibility you need to consider a few if not all the directives given above.
100 yards groupings. Several guns.
No matter what brand, what components most of them are capable of pretty good accuracy in many calibers.
This is proof and testament to Stoner's design with a bolt, group and stock in line with the bore and why also
bolt action tube guns are so accurate and popular.
Often we see out of the box ARs that are capable of amazing accuracy and with consistency in line with accurate
bolt action rifles.
But if one is looking for accuracy and repeatable consistency there are a few simple things one needs to take
into account to increase the chances of getting the right recipe.
Like all recipes the brands of the condiments can change and one can play a little with a personal touch but I think
one must consider some simple points that will help getting the wanted results.
Be ready to invest a bit extra in some key components.
Please chime in with your ideas, tips and tricks.
These are some AR accuracy key directives.
- A good barrel and bolt. (The beating heart of the AR).
Currently we are blessed with many good quality barrels. Some of the barrel makers have been doing this for decades and now they are offering AR barrels many
times with matched bolts to assure both quality and tight fit specially in match barrels. I found Krieger and Lothar Walther to be excellent barrel makers with amazing
bores and precise chambering jobs. Whether the job is done by their custom shop or another shop using their blanks it must be done with the same care as when
chambering accurate bolt action rifles. A self respected gun smith will at least offer a matched bolt to assure a perfect match as we know we have tolerances and
they will be trying to give you the best match both in terms of dimensions and quality of materials as well as making sure everything is perfectly squared.
They normally chamber pointing form the bore so everything is perfectly concentric and true. Other great barrels include lilja, bartlein, rock and shilen match among
a few others. Those makers have great deals and one doesn't have to spend a fortune to make sure the barrels are well made and capable. A great example are ARP
barrels that can produce consistent 1/2MOA accuracy. I have a few of those and one 6.8 in 18" that can challenge any high end bolt rifle any time anywhere. ARP comes
with a nice bolt that we all already know are superior to the average offering out there. The barrel should have a well cut target crown or if threads are needed
avoid 1/2" threads at all cost. Even with the 22 caliber bore there is not enough material to support the bore from swelling towards the end. This will hapeen dinamically
with heat and overtime will swell with pressure and accuracy will suffer. 1/2" threads should have never existed in any caliber.
Lothar Walther LW50 the best polygonal barrels the money can buy and they will build you whatever you want.
They ask for precise dimensions and specs. You have to wait for their custom shop up to 3 or 4 months but they always get it done and get it right.
No mistakes, no excuses, no BS just pure quality... They also have great deals on precut ready to go barrels for popular calibers.
Krieger barrels are among the best barrels out there too. Their 5R rifling is amazing.
ARP barrels great value some with out of this world repeatable accuracy....
Wilson Combat Barrels.
I have inspected them closely and see what they can do. Amazing cuts and very pricise chambering jobs.
Their store offer everything you need for quality ARs.
-Bolt and group.
The most important thing about an AR is the heart of the AR that is having good quality internals. Being a Direct Impingement system this is where the quality and therefore the
budget should concentrate on. We do not need to be spending a fortune for who knows what improvement but also stay away from discount/kit deals with cuts and materials of
questionable origin and reputation. As I said a good maker might offer a bolt to match the barrel and accuracy job. These might come to be squared and true with
a tighter fit. As we fire the firearm everything will loose up a little but we do not want to start with something that is already too lose specially on the breach end.
Good quality extractors and ejectors resistance free are needed for optimal operation.
-Quality trigger.
This is another component of the AR guts that must be of good quality and adjusted to the shooters demand. My preference is a nice two stage trigger with zero creep
and clean, predictable precise break. I set up some to be 1/2lb or less so you can literally break by breathing on them but I do not suggest something like this for
anything tactical and due to liabilities. Here we have many great options. Some rally expensive but not really needed. Lots of tacticool stuff that adds nothing but
dollars to the bill. A simple yet effective 2 stage Geiselle will give us what we want. Even the popular Rock River national match with some tuning will do the same
other triggers costing 3 times will do. make sure the hammer surface is polished and mates well with the carrier to assure proper function w/o disruption. Don't need to go crazy lapping those parts but a bit of attention pays off. Also make sure the springs are the right ones and adjusted. I found many folks with springs crazy tight and interfering with their trigger, hammer and cycling.
-Receivers and brands.
The brands are not important as soon the parts are up to spec and they are just the shell. A brand might mean something but might also mean you spent more for nothing.
however there are some brands that are known to offer good quality billets with pretty tight fits. I found SI defense and Mega to produce very tight fits. I have a few of those.
But I also have great fits with regular DPMS receivers bought from the fulton armory and other places so I think here one has to use good judgement. As I am sure there
are good others but remember paying more for tacticool names and logos with sculls and bones might mean nothing towards accuracy.
One thing that is important aside form a good mating of the recievers is to make sure the upper reciever has a tight fit with the barrel. When mounting the barrel in the upper
receiver it is a great opportunity to square off the receiver. Don't need to go crazy but this along with a tight fit of all part is yet another step towards accuracy.
Also make sure you use a good quality barrel nut and this will also depend on the rails / handguard option that must be a free floating system.
-Gas blocks.
As we know many steel alloys and specially those used to make barrels are hard metals but they are still somewhat flexible and malleable otherwise they will be too brittle.
After trying many options through the years I found that a tight, good quality clamp type gas block can provide a perfect seal of gases yet very easy to install and maintain.
Unlike setscrews and pins the clamp provides even pressure all around and will stay put if properly installed. I like to use stainless ones or same material of the barrel.
Some claim the T6 material can walk and it is true the aluminum dialates at a different rate the steel in barrels but if properly installed with good design and using blue
locktite(always) and even some small pressure washers this will not move. ACE hardware is your best friend for anything needed.
I also like the block with a very tight gas tube fit. We have some great options of clamp blocks from Midwest, Badger and others but I found one maker call BTE in some
models you really have to press hard to get the gas tube in. I also use a minute drop of blue locktite and get zero leaking anywhere. some of BTE cuts provide an adjustable
screw that I replace but a spring loaded one from AC so still can adjust and will not walk, ever. a bit blue locktite will seal too but it is nice to have the spring too so
we know we can use it as intended to finely tune the pressure and timing. I also make sure I get a good fit on the gas key. I have a expander punch to make sure there
is no much gas leaking until the carrier is propelled. Another area that is a concern is the timing of the gas rings on the bolt. Normally I have no issues with this but have
successfully tried coil rings that help mitigate that issue.
-Harguards, tubes and how they work.
One thing you need for an accurate AR is a free float handguard. Here is an area where one has to consider the needs for long term use like potentially use a front sight mounted
on the rail or rail for attachments but where one could be spending a lot for nothing. You see, one of the weakest points of the AR is the section where the threads meat the
upper reciever block. One can find larger beefed up receivers like MEga, LAR, Seekings for example, but even some a bit harder aluminum alloy but in the end there is so much it can be done there because the measures are standard (they have to be) so if one put enough down pressure on a handguard the receiver will flex a little there, no much, but this will translate in barrel movement.
This can be seen when shooting prone in improvised positions like facing a bit downhill and we might be putting more pressure on the guard and bipod than we normally do. some of these
shots in tactical shots result a bit high and the reason why is, probably unknowgnly, too much down force on the rifle.
Monolitic systems mitigate this to some degree or another depending on design but a simple way to reduce this is to choose a handguard with a top rail and then mate the two
rails of the upper reciever to the handguar. NEVER use the optical rail system to do this our you will be interfering with your optics. Use a quality cantilever mount for
your optics (more of that later ) and then a simple coupler or shallow raiser to relieve that tension in case that occurs. This will not fix the problem but will defenetly help reduce that
effect for most people and most uses.
Expensive Brands mean nothing here. Pickup something that works well with a good barrel nut and with a quality cut well vented preferably and save your money for other more worthy
investment.
-Stocks and General Ergonomics
This is an area that is paramount. Adjustments on LOP(length of pull) and comb height (Cheek raisers) are paramount. And this will depend on the individual complexity and choice of
optics but before we go and invest in these two lets work with this simple idea: The rifle and optics configuration has to be flexible and change to fit you and not the other way around.
A good way is to go down on the rifle and find a good position with your eyes closed. Don't fall asleep if you find it too cozy! lol. But really go down sitting and prone in
your living room if you have to and get a feeling for the entire rifle. bring a tape of ruler with you to meausre some parts you might already have like mounts and scopes
just for reference. I find the magpul PRS to be a good value for the money. It is not perfect, it is a tad butt heavy (a plus for me) but it is well made and have some easy
adjustments. Once I have that I find a good mount around 1.2" from the base and then make sure they are strong and solid for a quality scope. If I have irons normally I use for backup
so I most likely go for a folding type on the light side. I do zero and make sure are reasonably functional and accurate up to 200-300 yards. But since the goal for this system
might be extreme accuracy and might involve long shots then the glass is the key. When I mount the optics and before I level the scope (not the wheeler system, it doesn't work) I
try to get as much of the ergonomics right. Grip, controls, stock and then scope position. After I pre-mount the scope w/o torking all the way I close my eyes again find my
cozy positiioin and when I open my eyes the scope clear picture must be there. I will have to adjust the ocular piece, move the mount or the scope and adjust a big cheek raiser
until I feel I can come back to that postion instintively. In the end this doesn't differ much from one rifel to another whether is AR, R700 or other and I gravitate towards the same
tipy of geometrics, and adaptable stocks no matter what rifle. I use the same scopes for the same purposes in many rifles. I mean I use the same model just keep bying the same scopes
and do not play with compromising the zero unless is a rifle I am going to change or retire.
For a lighter rifle I found the mako to give a decent feedback but I do bolt them because a loose stock (It comes with the adjustable feature) doesn't give me
the kind of feedback I want...
The whitley stock offers some nice adjustments and weights for balancing but cheek raising is more complex and will require extra pieces
and/or padding.
are your best friends. Inexpensive and functional. Padding can be done with hobby foam sheets from the hobby store.
-Mounts and optics
(will post more later)
you see is not about little cut outs of cherry picked groups to later post online but knowing that no matter where and how you shoot
you can easily project where the bullet is going to impact and do that over and over again w/o interference. Something that is very
rewarding and nice to have and useful whether you compete or hunt or simply for fun.
The AR can be a very accurate rifle. But if you want to assure accuracy and repeatibility you need to consider a few if not all the directives given above.
100 yards groupings. Several guns.
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