Questions About Reloading Manuals

[mgunner]

I've been using Modern Reloading 2nd Edition and it's great, but I wanted to buy another manual to supplement it.

I don't want to lock myself into a specific brand of bullet, so I'm not interested in the manuals from Sierra, Hornady, etc, at this time.

1. Is the Lyman manual more generic like Modern Reloading is?
2. If it is, what edition do you recommend? The newest edition or an older edition and why?
3. Are there other manuals out there that are not bullet brand specific?

Thanks again for all of the help.

 

[Vantrepes]

99% of the time, the Lee book will have enough information to get started, but you can find most powder info online from the powder manufactures. Bullet manufacturers would like you to buy their manual and they can be helpful, but it's not 100% required unless you start getting into the specialty projectiles like solid copper, or the long range low drag because of the different contact surfaces. Just live by the motto "Start low, and work up", and you'll be good to go.

I have used powder chargers for heavier bullets when loading lighter bullets when I couldn't find exact information, and it's safe as long as you don't go the other way. You will never have a problem if you use the max charge for a 170 grain bullet when you load a 160 or 150 grain bullet. I had to do that with the FTX for my 30-30, and some odd ball 63 grain Sierra bullets.
If you go the other way (using the max charge for a lighter bullet when loading a heavier one) you're begging for you guns to violently disassemble themselves, so don't do that.

As far as what era, get the one for the powder you are loading. They have made tweaks to the formulas, so unless you have older powder, the manual may not line up as well as the newer ones.

Sorry, I'm no help on the Lyman manual, I have never owned one.

 

[Xae289]

I've been using Modern Reloading 2nd Edition and it's great, but I wanted to buy another manual to supplement it.

I don't want to lock myself into a specific brand of bullet, so I'm not interested in the manuals from Sierra, Hornady, etc, at this time.

1. Is the Lyman manual more generic like Modern Reloading is?
2. If it is, what edition do you recommend? The newest edition or an older edition and why?
3. Are there other manuals out there that are not bullet brand specific?

Thanks again for all of the help.

First off, I recommend Hodgdon's Reloading Data Center. It's a great free resource. Hodgdon Landing | Hodgdon
They don't only provide data for Hodgon brand powders, but also for Winchester, IMR, Accurate, and Ramshot. They use a variety of different bullets, cases, primer brands, and powders throughout. Besides recipes, they also have reloading education articles if you want another source of reading up on safe reloading practices.

Secondly, despite your criteria, I do recommend the Hornady Reloading Guide app for your smartphone or tablet. It has basic reloading information for free, I think. The big advantage is that you can buy cartridge reloading data ala carte for $1 per cartridge. So if you only want data for one cartridge or want to try it out, you pay $1. If you don't like the recipes, no big loss.

Also the point that with rifle and pistol cartridges, you can substitute components without running much risk as long as you're careful about it and start at the starting load and work your way up in small increments. This is all made much safer if you have a chronograph and can compare your actual velocities to published velocities.

Especially if you're only substituting one component at a time, you're on solid ground. With bullets, you can substitute for a bullet of the same weight and similar construction (e.g. swap a Nosler 240 gr JHP for a Sierra 240 gr JHP in a .44 Magnum recipe). If you're substituting the case, make sure you measure the length of the case to make sure it's in spec (trim if too long, don't use if below trim length). When substituting primers of different brands, it's best not to sub magnum primers with non-magnum, and if you sub a non-magnum primer with a magnum, stay well below the max load.

 

[Tisto]

I recommend picking up the data from the various powder manufacturers. The one for Western powders is free, and covers all their products from Ramshot and Accurate. Hodgdon offers a data magazine ( +/- $10 ) every year, and it covers all of the Hodgdon, IMR, and Winchester powders. Alliant offers one that covers their powders. You should pick up a new one from whichever powder company you use as often as they publish one, since the new one will have data for new products and it will have corrections in it as well.

Personally, I have books from Hornady, Nosler, Sierra, and Barnes that I use regularly. I also have a few Lyman books hanging around. With the exception of the Barnes data, which is quite different due to the solid copper construction of their bullets, the data from the others can be compared and used to extrapolate information ☆☆ IF ☆☆ you know what you're doing. A new or inexperienced reloader should stick closely to the data in a book.

 

[kev74]

I use the Lee manual mostly. Second for me is Lyman because it has a bunch of lead bullet recipes.

Lots of online resources as well.

 

[dwa12479]

Been using Load Data | The Best Reloading Manual Online for years. It's a $35 annual subscription, and you get data from dozens of manuals, constantly updating too. So I'm not buying new editions each year.

 

[mgunner]

Especially if you're only substituting one component at a time, you're on solid ground. With bullets, you can substitute for a bullet of the same weight and similar construction (e.g. swap a Nosler 240 gr JHP for a Sierra 240 gr JHP in a .44 Magnum recipe). If you're substituting the case, make sure you measure the length of the case to make sure it's in spec (trim if too long, don't use if below trim length). When substituting primers of different brands, it's best not to sub magnum primers with non-magnum, and if you sub a non-magnum primer with a magnum, stay well below the max load.

I wasn't sure if substitutions were OK while using manuals from bullet manufacturers. I don't have a store near me where I can flip through manuals to see the specifics before buying one so I wanted to be sure. I didn't want to order a brand specific manual and find out that I couldn't use it for "off brand" bullets. Thanks for clearing that up for me as well as for the other information.

 

[mgunner]

I have used powder chargers for heavier bullets when loading lighter bullets when I couldn't find exact information, and it's safe as long as you don't go the other way. You will never have a problem if you use the max charge for a 170 grain bullet when you load a 160 or 150 grain bullet. I had to do that with the FTX for my 30-30, and some odd ball 63 grain Sierra bullets.
If you go the other way (using the max charge for a lighter bullet when loading a heavier one) you're begging for you guns to violently disassemble themselves, so don't do that.

Thank you for reminding me about this. I think I read that in the Modern Reloading manual as well.

 

[Acer-m14]

I've been using Modern Reloading 2nd Edition and it's great, but I wanted to buy another manual to supplement it.

I don't want to lock myself into a specific brand of bullet, so I'm not interested in the manuals from Sierra, Hornady, etc, at this time.

1. Is the Lyman manual more generic like Modern Reloading is?
2. If it is, what edition do you recommend? The newest edition or an older edition and why?
3. Are there other manuals out there that are not bullet brand specific?

Thanks again for all of the help.

what are you reloading for ??


I'm off on a Black Powder rabbit hole again .. BP for 12ga slugs loads in a smooth bore cylinder bore shot gun ..

not a rifled musket .. that is a pain in the ass to get the lead pill down the barrel lol

but i put 100gr in the musket under a 350gr 50 cal slug LOL ..

load data below is from Goex ..




reloading is fun

 

[Xae289]

I wasn't sure if substitutions were OK while using manuals from bullet manufacturers. I don't have a store near me where I can flip through manuals to see the specifics before buying one so I wanted to be sure. I didn't want to order a brand specific manual and find out that I couldn't use it for "off brand" bullets. Thanks for clearing that up for me as well as for the other information.

What are you reloading for anyway? Fair warning, I hear substitutions are much riskier with shotgun shell reloading, though I don't reload for shotguns, so I'm not sure. What I said before applies to metallic pistol and rifle cartridges.

 

[FP1201]

What are you reloading for anyway? Fair warning, I hear substitutions are much riskier with shotgun shell reloading, though I don't reload for shotguns, so I'm not sure. What I said before applies to metallic pistol and rifle cartridges.

There are folks that mix shotshell components or errantly use one because they "think" they're the same, but are not and the end results are often substandard. Get a Lyman Shotshell Manual, use the EXACT components that are listed (believe me there are hundreds if not thousands) Between Name brands there are lots of variations and they're often not obvious to the beginner, but once you cut a few hulls open and study them, you'll quickly start seeing the difference and the quality/accuracy of the Load will improve as well.

 

[mgunner]

What are you reloading for anyway? Fair warning, I hear substitutions are much riskier with shotgun shell reloading, though I don't reload for shotguns, so I'm not sure. What I said before applies to metallic pistol and rifle cartridges.

I'm just loading 9mm right now and will be loading for rifle in the future.

 

[mgunner]

what are you reloading for ??


I'm off on a Black Powder rabbit hole again .. BP for 12ga slugs loads in a smooth bore cylinder bore shot gun ..

not a rifled musket .. that is a pain in the ass to get the lead pill down the barrel lol

but i put 100gr in the musket under a 350gr 50 cal slug LOL ..

load data below is from Goex ..


View attachment 210752

reloading is fun

View attachment 210753

I'm not loading for shotgun, I'm just loading 9mm with plated ammo but will be loading rifle at some point.

 

[mgunner]

There are folks that mix shotshell components or errantly use one because they "think" they're the same, but are not and the end results are often substandard. Get a Lyman Shotshell Manual, use the EXACT components that are listed (believe me there are hundreds if not thousands) Between Name brands there are lots of variations and they're often not obvious to the beginner, but once you cut a few hulls open and study them, you'll quickly start seeing the difference and the quality/accuracy of the Load will improve as well.

I'm not loading for shotgun just plated pistol and in the future will reload for rifle. But thank you for the heads up about shotgun components.

 

[diggs223]

don't limit yourself because a "manufacturer" all manuals are nothing more than recommendations. more is better. they don't all
use the same powders, one may have what your using, others not. observation and common sense will be your guide. READ the how to, that is in the manuals. start low and observe.

 

[Xae289]

I'm just loading 9mm right now and will be loading for rifle in the future.

That's good, 9mm is very easy to reload for. I really do recommend the Hornady app for you then. Spend $1 and buy the 9mm data. Since Hornady makes bullets in lots of different styles, one great thing is that they list different Cartridge Overall Lengths (COL) for different bullet shapes. COL is the length of the completed cartridge measured from the bottom of the case rim to the tip of the bullet as measured with calipers or a micrometer.

Bullets have different nose profiles (ogives). The ogive shape matters because depending on the shape, more or less of the bullet's length will end up inside the case. For example, in 9mm, loading an FMJ with a round nose, you will end up with a longer COL than an FMJ with a flat point. Despite one cartridge being longer because of the nose shape, both loads end up with the same amount of the bullet's shank inside the case, which is an important factor in the load's peak pressure. The more of the bullet's shank you have inside the case, the higher the pressure. Load a bullet too deep and you could raise pressures dangerously. Don't load it deep enough and it might not headspace properly or fit in your magazines.

Why this matters practically when substituting is that depending on the nose profile, two bullets of the same weight might need to be seated to a different COL. In this example below, all these bullets are 124 gr 9mm bullets. Note that we have 3 different bullet types: round nose, flat point, and hollow point. Each type bullet has a different COL. You should seat the bullet no deeper that what would result in the specified COL. You want the final cartridge to be no shorter than the COL or longer than the Maximum COL, which a good reloading manual should list.


So say you buy a non-Hornady 124 gr or 125 gr bullet. To use this Hornady data with another manufacturer's bullet, you would load it to the same COL as the Hornady bullet that best matches the nose profile of the bullet you're using.

One major exception is if you're using lead-free bullets. If you're using lead-free or all-copper bullets, you absolutely need to use data developed for that specific bullet and cannot use data published for a traditional lead-core bullet. This is because copper is less dense than lead, so a bullet made of 100% copper will be longer for a bullet of a given caliber than a lead-core bullet of the same caliber.

 

[Acer-m14]

use the EXACT components that are listed (believe me there are hundreds if not thousands) Between Name brands there are lots of variations and they're often not obvious to the beginner, but once you cut a few hulls open and study them, you'll quickly start seeing the difference and the quality/accuracy of the Load will improve as well.

once you know what is a tapered hull and straight hull is then you can do some swapping they say this for this straight hull brand
but i have this brand .. just check on the base wad also so you have the same volume

 

[Acer-m14]

i have this book for reloading my 270 win ..

below is the book for 9mm luger

they got books for lots of calibers ..

https://www.amazon.com/Loadbooks-USA-Inc-Complete-Reloading/dp/B019BYOGGE

 

[FP1201]

once you know what is a tapered hull and straight hull is then you can do some swapping they say this for this straight hull brand
but i have this brand .. just check on the base wad also so you have the same volume

Often Shotshell Reloaders will stumble onto mixed and discarded hulls thinking "Hey, I can reload all these" with the same mindset as metallic cartridges, then they start having crimping problems, which often comes back to wad pressure and length because to the untrained eye, they're "all the same"...aren't they?
If you're going to reload volumes of shotshells (trap, Skeet, 5 Stand, etc.) then I suggest getting one high quality brand of Hull and sticking with it: Winchester AA, Remington STS, Federal GM, etc.
Pretty much all of the plastic hulls can be reloaded, but the end result and need for adjustments between brands, wads, shot weight, powder charge, seating pressure, length, crimp style, and even Primer can be maddening!

 

[mgunner]

That's good, 9mm is very easy to reload for. I really do recommend the Hornady app for you then. Spend $1 and buy the 9mm data. Since Hornady makes bullets in lots of different styles, one great thing is that they list different Cartridge Overall Lengths (COL) for different bullet shapes. COL is the length of the completed cartridge measured from the bottom of the case rim to the tip of the bullet as measured with calipers or a micrometer.

Bullets have different nose profiles (ogives). The ogive shape matters because depending on the shape, more or less of the bullet's length will end up inside the case. For example, in 9mm, loading an FMJ with a round nose, you will end up with a longer COL than an FMJ with a flat point. Despite one cartridge being longer because of the nose shape, both loads end up with the same amount of the bullet's shank inside the case, which is an important factor in the load's peak pressure. The more of the bullet's shank you have inside the case, the higher the pressure. Load a bullet too deep and you could raise pressures dangerously. Don't load it deep enough and it might not headspace properly or fit in your magazines.

Why this matters practically when substituting is that depending on the nose profile, two bullets of the same weight might need to be seated to a different COL. In this example below, all these bullets are 124 gr 9mm bullets. Note that we have 3 different bullet types: round nose, flat point, and hollow point. Each type bullet has a different COL. You should seat the bullet no deeper that what would result in the specified COL. You want the final cartridge to be no shorter than the COL or longer than the Maximum COL, which a good reloading manual should list.

View attachment 210827
So say you buy a non-Hornady 124 gr or 125 gr bullet. To use this Hornady data with another manufacturer's bullet, you would load it to the same COL as the Hornady bullet that best matches the nose profile of the bullet you're using.

One major exception is if you're using lead-free bullets. If you're using lead-free or all-copper bullets, you absolutely need to use data developed for that specific bullet and cannot use data published for a traditional lead-core bullet. This is because copper is less dense than lead, so a bullet made of 100% copper will be longer for a bullet of a given caliber than a lead-core bullet of the same caliber.

Thank you for all of the information here!

 

[Acer-m14]

im sure there is a pistol and rifle primer chart out there on the web .. or in a book

just have to find it ..

like this one for shotgun primers ..

 

[Acer-m14]

Often Shotshell Reloaders will stumble onto mixed and discarded hulls thinking "Hey, I can reload all these" with the same mindset as metallic cartridges, then they start having crimping problems, which often comes back to wad pressure and length because to the untrained eye, they're "all the same"...aren't they?
If you're going to reload volumes of shotshells (trap, Skeet, 5 Stand, etc.) then I suggest getting one high quality brand of Hull and sticking with it: Winchester AA, Remington STS, Federal GM, etc.
Pretty much all of the plastic hulls can be reloaded, but the end result and need for adjustments between brands, wads, shot weight, powder charge, seating pressure, length, crimp style, and even Primer can be maddening!

What was Jack O Connor's favorite 270 win load?

it was hot from the books i got


3300 fps i think .. compressed powder load

i can go get the book .. it out in the shed




270 win in the press with a load of 2800 fps ..



i take it you do not like shot shell reloaders Fudds

 

[FP1201]

What was Jack O Connor's favorite 270 win load?

it was hot from the books i got


3300 fps i think .. compressed powder load

i can go get the book .. it out in the shed


View attachment 211035

270 win in the press with a load of 2800 fps ..



i take it you do not like shot shell reloaders Fudds

Reloading manuals down to even pamphlets from Powder manufacturers always prefix with "the information published here supersedes all previous loads"
Everyone started somewhere and with zero knowledge.
I called the fictitious and unknown reloader "Elmer Fudd" as he was a cartoon character know to carry a shotgun and thought to be clownish; the "Fudds" are generalized as ignorant gun owners hating non-conventional guns and/or sure that "nobody needs a Xxxxx or ## rounds in a magazine." Hate them no, wish they'd STFU about their biased and based opinions; yes.

 

[Acer-m14]

i have 100 paper hulls .. i better check there maker ..

and then make them a 3 dram load ..

 

[mgunner]

I recommend picking up the data from the various powder manufacturers. The one for Western powders is free, and covers all their products from Ramshot and Accurate. Hodgdon offers a data magazine ( +/- $10 ) every year, and it covers all of the Hodgdon, IMR, and Winchester powders. Alliant offers one that covers their powders. You should pick up a new one from whichever powder company you use as often as they publish one, since the new one will have data for new products and it will have corrections in it as well.

Personally, I have books from Hornady, Nosler, Sierra, and Barnes that I use regularly. I also have a few Lyman books hanging around. With the exception of the Barnes data, which is quite different due to the solid copper construction of their bullets, the data from the others can be compared and used to extrapolate information ☆☆ IF ☆☆ you know what you're doing. A new or inexperienced reloader should stick closely to the data in a book.

I don't think the Western Powders manual is available anymore since Hodgdon bought them out.

 

[Acer-m14]

Reloading manuals down to even pamphlets from Powder manufacturers always prefix with "the information published here supersedes all previous loads"
Everyone started somewhere and with zero knowledge.
I called the fictitious and unknown reloader "Elmer Fudd" as he was a cartoon character know to carry a shotgun and thought to be clownish; the "Fudds" are generalized as ignorant gun owners hating non-conventional guns and/or sure that "nobody needs a Xxxxx or ## rounds in a magazine." Hate them no, wish they'd STFU about their biased and based opinions; yes.

and the new manuals leave out the old school reloading info that has work for lots of years

but there just covering there ass i guess

 

[Acer-m14]

which is quite different due to the solid copper construction of their bullets

just saying a copper bullet vs a lead bullet with the same weight .. both are the same .. send it ..

ban copper .. bye bye ev cars lol

 

[diggs223]

just saying a copper bullet vs a lead bullet with the same weight .. both are the same .. send it ..

ban copper .. bye bye ev cars lol

NOT the same, lead cannot handle the high pressures of a jacketed bullet load.

 

[Tisto]

just saying a copper bullet vs a lead bullet with the same weight .. both are the same .. send it ..

ban copper .. bye bye ev cars lol

No, they're not the same. The density of a lead core jacketed bullet is higher than a solid copper bullet. Therefore, a solid copper bullet of the same weight and diameter would have to be longer in length. The longer bearing surface against the bore creates added pressure. Barnes explains this in the book. It's not difficult.

 

[Tisto]

I don't think the Western Powders manual is available anymore since Hodgdon bought them out.

I got a new one last year ?