kev74
20×102mm Vulcan
Propane torch, silver solder and flux.
Featureless 9mm Barrels
- Thread starter BDinPutnam
- Start date
BDinPutnam
.475 A&M Magnum
Ok, that I can do. Seems like I would have more flexibility in (barrel) purchase options too. Thanks!
Or... fake suppressor over 10.5" barrel to get to OAL of 16"?
Last edited:
Acer-m14
.950 JDJ
my experience with silver solder .. ( working on old military radios ) .. its a bitch to undo .. it just seams to take twice the heat to undo it then to apply it ..
good stuff thou ...
good stuff thou ...
Marine Cpl
.577 Tyrannosaur.
That’s why it’s one of the two approved methods by the ATF.
@thewheels
.308 Win
Can anyone describe the steps?
If I'm using the silver solder paste, do I dab it on the barrel threads, spin the device on and then hit the device with the torch until it's glowing?
Or am I just working the solder around the seam between the barrel and muzzle device shoulder?
If I'm using the silver solder paste, do I dab it on the barrel threads, spin the device on and then hit the device with the torch until it's glowing?
Or am I just working the solder around the seam between the barrel and muzzle device shoulder?
kev74
20×102mm Vulcan
First you have to remove the blue /black coating. A wire brush works well without messing the threads up. The solder won't stick to bluing or coatings.
On mine, I put some on the threads and purposely left a bit squeezed out as an indicator. Then heat it slowly until the solder melts.
@thewheels
.308 Win
Any discoloration from the heat that you noticed?
I'm going to try this on a stainless barrel and think heat block putty will be in order.