need some help with an older S&W 686 revolver

kev74 · Jan 27, 2020

A couple of things to check...

- The screw for the main spring should be nice and snug.
- Make sure there's no crud or gummed up lube slowing the hammer down.
- The tip of the firing pin should be rounded. Make sure the tip didn't break off.
- Try different ammo. Maybe you got a bad batch, or especially tough primers.

Smith & Wesson is good about warranty work. If you can't figure it out, send it back to the mother ship.

kev74 · Jan 27, 2020

oc shooter said:
Kev the screw for the main spring is snug the firering pin is rounded I've used a couple of different types of ammo in both calibers so I guess I'll try another cleaning and then maybe take it to a smith or take your advice and send it to S&W which I'm loath to do since it took them 6 weeks to fix my Victory

6 weeks isn't the end of the world for it to get done right.

I sent a slide to S&W because the sight came off. It was a 2206 from the early 90's - not new, discontinued, and not covered by any warranty. I got it back, fixed, for free. And the best part, they mailed it back to me in a pistol box wrapped in the S&W paper. I was able to sell the box and paper for $30 or $40 on eBay! :rock:

Don't sweat it. You've got a quality gun. Its worth the wait.

HEX · Jan 27, 2020

S&W revolvers and their lockwork and adjustments are pretty much my primary expertise in gun work. The truth is that if all else is right then the strain screw should be able to be relieved to as much as 1/3 (yes, I'm simplifying a lot) of it's pressure on the mainspring before you should be experiencing frequent light strikes based on it. I'm not implying it should be relieved when firing (it can be when trying to set up a very specific balance, if properly secured that way, but generally not recommended.) My point is that if yours is fully tightened, you've definitely got something else going on.

I don't have much to say beyond what Kev74 already said though. There are a couple of of other possibilities. Could be something worn or rubbing in the lockwork or perhaps some malformation of the hammer block or nose bushing that could be slowing it.

You could just get a spring kit and see what happens; really that's probably what I would do. I could probably take a look at it (to see if something else is off) or help you with installing if you need it.

kev74 · Jan 27, 2020

Does it feel like there is any drag on the hammer? Without seeing it, my guess is that there is some gummed up, 30 year old lube slowing things down.

RoyP · Jan 27, 2020

possible that someone replaced the main spring with a reduced power one at some point? if so depending on how much it's been fired it simply might need to be replaced. post a pic of the main spring it would help identify it as a stock or aftermarket one

1075tech · Jan 27, 2020

It's probably broken beyond repair. You should just sell it to me for scrap or parts.

Shoots100 · Jan 27, 2020

Go on U tube and look at some videos of how to take a S&W revolver apart.
Buy the correct spring kit from wolff or wilson.
If your going to take it apart, you might as well install the spring kit.
Buy some spray gun cleaner, take your revolver apart and clean the shit out of it.
Install the spring kit, lube with some type of semi viscous lube ( Kroil) and shoot the shit out of it till your trigger finger falls off.
Enjoy,
SJC

Acer-m14 · Jan 28, 2020

send it to HEX or S&W one you will pay , the other is 50/50

did i see your post on a Facebook group @oc shooter lol ..

HEX · Jan 28, 2020

Acer-m14 said:
send it to HEX or S&W one you will pay , the other is 50/50

I'm honestly not sure what that means.

Anyway, wouldn't pay either one I think.

Can't send to me as I'm not an FFL or licensed gunsmith; just a guy who's done many lockwork/trigger jobs for almost 20 years (and have been told by at least half a dozen 'real' gunsmiths that they were quite impressed with my results, even admitting it was better than thiers in some cases). I'm willing to help out a local forum member though.

As for S&W, last I knew they'll send out a shipping label and repair work and return costs nothing. It's been a bunch of years since I've had to send them something for fixin', so that may or may not still be true.

Acer-m14 · Jan 28, 2020

@HEX took it as you were a smith . and you would charge .. S&W may or may not .

HEX · Jan 28, 2020

Acer-m14 said:
@HEX took it as you were a smith . and you would charge .. S&W may or may not .

Ah, gotcha. Nope, not a smith per say; just know a lot of crap about how guns work, like making them better (triggers primarily), and willing to help.

Robin · Jan 28, 2020

OC, if you do decide on self help, get a good set of gunsmithing screwdrivers. Nothing looks worse on a nice old revolver than seeing the screw slots all buggered up.
Robin

Shoots100 · Jan 29, 2020

HEX said:
Ah, gotcha. Nope, not a smith per say; just know a lot of crap about how guns work, like making them better (triggers primarily), and willing to help.

Me too, I cut my teeth working on S&W, colts and a ruger every once and awhile.
To me, Working on Revolvers is in the same league as working on a carbureted engine.
Not much to them and when you get them running right, their dependable and simple to maintain.

SJC

S&W Fan · Jan 29, 2020

The easy fix is to buy a spring kit from wilson or wolf as mentioned above. If I remember correctly the spring kit comes with a New strain screw. It sounds as though the strain screw may be worn.

1075tech · Jan 30, 2020

How old is it? I bought my 6" - 686 Distinguished Combat Magnum new in 1986 or so. Still have the original box, S&W wax paper and the wood grips for it. I did have to send it back to S&W in about 1994 for some type of upgrade (recall?) and because it was out of time. In my younger days when I could see, I used to be able to hold some nice groups at 30 yards off a sand bag rest.

Nice easy handling gun even with 158gr magnums

71velle · Jan 30, 2020

Replacing the mainspring and strain screw would be the place to start imo. I have seen a few guys have trouble with reduced power mainsprings. I believe that the strain screws can be bought in a bulk pack. the screw can be filed down to reduce the trigger pull weight, but there is a point where light strike will occur.

S&W Fan · Jan 30, 2020

Can you take and post a couple of photos? If it’s a stock S&W mainspring it should be flat. If it’s a ribbed mainspring then it has been replaced by the former owner and they may have not used the correct strain screw or worse , filed it down too short. Also, if the gun has had a trigger job done on it you will want to check the DA trigger weight. IIRC it should Never be less than 8#’s for maximum reliability.
Since you are relatively new to revolvers may I recommend that you bring it to a competent gun smith to go through for you.

kev74 · Jan 30, 2020

oc shooter said:
Hex your offer is really appreciated. I haven't been on the sight for a few days so am just getting to read some of the post's It seems as though the most agree that changing the main spring is a good starting point I just dropped the gun off at wallkill valley small arms and the owner Frank is going to change the spring and fit a new set of grips for me. I will keep every one posted and if for some reason there is still a problem I'd like to take you up on your offer Hex I see your in Ulster so you can't be too far from me thanks guys

Frank is a good guy. Your gun is in good hands.

HEX · Jan 30, 2020

kev74 said:
Frank is a good guy. Your gun is in good hands.

I just met him last week. Wasn't aware his shop existed until @1075tech mentioned it on here somewhere and I stopped in. The place is less than 20 mins from me and I'd never heard of it before.

kev74 · Jan 30, 2020

I'm also about 15 minutes away in Rock Tavern. I don't make it up there nearly as much as I should.

1075tech · Jan 30, 2020

HEX said:
I just met him last week. Wasn't aware his shop existed until @1075tech mentioned it on here somewhere and I stopped in. The place is less than 20 mins from me and I'd never heard of it before.

I'll let you buy me something there as a thank you

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