Considering getting into Reloading

RooftopKorean

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I have two Lee Loadmasters.

I love them, I use them for rifle reloading also but only for target loads. If I'm doing PRS I hand load match grade.

If you search the threads, I got a few upgrades for the Loadmaster which turns it into a great progressive press.
 
Depick

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Tisto said:
Progressive presses are awesome for loading pistol rounds, but not necessarily great for rifle rounds due to the extensive case prep needed. That being said, I happen to know someone that has a tricked out Dillon setup he would like to sell. If you're interested, PM me. I know you live close by.


I have an RCBS Ammomaster progressive press. It's 30-ish years old now. It has served well, and loaded tens of thousands of rounds. Very few things have ever broken on it, and all but one plastic tube was replaced by RCBS. The tube is no longer available, so I had to make my own.
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Hochulsucks1234 said:
I agree, progressive presses make reloading pistol rounds quick and easy. I don't like using the powder dropper with pistol dies though. I slow the process down slightly by throwing a charge with my Matchmaster, then filling the case. I found a funnel with a long neck works well for not needing to remove the case from the plate. If I did use the powder dropper I would add a Powder Cop to the press rotation. I just dont trust powder droppers when dealing with pistol rounds. So easy to over charge.
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I will mainly be loading pistol ammo.
 
FP1201

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Robin said:
gundigest.com

Reloading Rimfires 101

Reloading rimfires is tricky due to the lack of primers, but it can still be done with the help of the Sharpshooter .22 LR Reloader Kit.
gundigest.com gundigest.com
Click to expand...
We had a fellow and his wife that have a "prepared" mindset, super nice folks, they had purchased one of those kits and actually reloaded some .22LR came in showed us and we went out and shot it: seemed to work just fine! Didn't really accuracy test it, but did hit the target where aimed.
"Rimfire: ammunition has been around about 150 years, and given the technology of the age of inception, it's sad that we as sophisticated, modern men with access to cheap and plentiful technology seemingly lack the wherewithal to reproduce fine little cartridges of yesteryear...there are tons of 25 to 58 caliber Rifles that remain tied over the Mantle because no viable ammunition exists for it.
 
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FP1201 said:
We had a fellow and his wife that have a "prepared" mindset, super nice folks, they had purchased one of those kits and actually reloaded some .22LR came in showed us and we went out and shot it: seemed to work just fine! Didn't really accuracy test it, but did hit the target where aimed.
"Rimfire: ammunition has been around about 150 years, and given the technology of the age of inception, it's sad that we as sophisticated, modern men with access to cheap and plentiful technology seemingly lack the wherewithal to reproduce fine little cartridges of yesteryear...there are tons of 25 to 58 caliber Rifles that remain tied over the Mantle because no viable ammunition exists for it.
Click to expand...
I'm making it a 2025 plan on making it easier for me to reload 22LR. Possibly trying to get into recycling lead and casting my own 22LR bullets. First step is to have efficiency on reloading. Like to get it to the speed of reloading centerfire on a single stage press.

I need to work out how to get the crimp out from the firing pin too in an efficient manner.
 
kev74

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ManualF150 said:
I'm making it a 2025 plan on making it easier for me to reload 22LR. Possibly trying to get into recycling lead and casting my own 22LR bullets. First step is to have efficiency on reloading. Like to get it to the speed of reloading centerfire on a single stage press.

I need to work out how to get the crimp out from the firing pin too in an efficient manner.
Click to expand...
Don't worry about removing the crimp. Second hit would probably hit in a different spot.
 
Depick

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I wound up buying a lightly used Lee Loadmaster. It will come setup for 300 blackout. I’ll be mainly using it for pistol rounds so I’m sure I’ll have to buy a few parts to do so.
 
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kev74 said:
Don't worry about removing the crimp. Second hit would probably hit in a different spot.
Click to expand...

I've found that true. However it's when you get a bunch of them. Like for example when I was practicing reloading them to get the right loads, I'd keep using a the same few (not even really cleaning them).

After some thought today on this topic, I might have a solution... but I need to test the theory.

May require additional tooling......

Right about now is when I need a CNC machine... :rolleyes:
 
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Depick said:
I wound up buying a lightly used Lee Loadmaster. It will come setup for 300 blackout. I’ll be mainly using it for pistol rounds so I’m sure I’ll have to buy a few parts to do so.
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Make what ever holds the press rock solid.
 
FP1201

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fresch said:
Make what ever holds the press rock solid.
Click to expand...
What I have done for all m Presses is obtain a rectangle of 5/8" plate. figure out where the cross braces or most ridged part of the Bench Top with a couple inches hanging over the edge and drill 5/16" holes through the plate to secure it to the Bench, then set the Press on the plate and mark where to drill & tap holes to bolt the Press to the Plate.
The Lee Presses will likely use 1/4" bolts, and most others suffice with a 5/16" hole...Generally I use SAE (Fine) Thread but it really doesn't matter. While you're at it, if you have a Stand for your Powder Dropper, now would be a good time to D&T a couple holes for it as well.
Biggest mistake I've made was not leaving enough hanging over the edge so the ram and/or Handle cleared when stroked.
I do recommend using a Drill Press so the holes are straight, and metal that thick is going to need cutting oil.
It's a good idea to radius or at least sand/grind off the sharp edges, and if you're an overachiever, paint it.
As for actually mounting the plate to the Bench: 1/4" x 2" Lag Screws into Wood, or 1/4" Carrage Bolts and nuts if drilling through, don't forget to buy Bolts (Socket heads look good and are easier to get in/out) to bolt the Press to the Plate.
 
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On mine I built an all wood wall in the basement (can add French Cleats) anchored to the floor above joists, then bolted the wall with (3) 3/8 hand bent threaded rod around a lally column. then took a Harbor Freight wood working bench bolted that to the wall, mounted press to the bench; zero flex.
 
togmaster

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FP1201 said:
What I have done for all m Presses is obtain a rectangle of 5/8" plate. figure out where the cross braces or most ridged part of the Bench Top with a couple inches hanging over the edge and drill 5/16" holes through the plate to secure it to the Bench, then set the Press on the plate and mark where to drill & tap holes to bolt the Press to the Plate.
The Lee Presses will likely use 1/4" bolts, and most others suffice with a 5/16" hole...Generally I use SAE (Fine) Thread but it really doesn't matter. While you're at it, if you have a Stand for your Powder Dropper, now would be a good time to D&T a couple holes for it as well.
Biggest mistake I've made was not leaving enough hanging over the edge so the ram and/or Handle cleared when stroked.
I do recommend using a Drill Press so the holes are straight, and metal that thick is going to need cutting oil.
It's a good idea to radius or at least sand/grind off the sharp edges, and if you're an overachiever, paint it.
As for actually mounting the plate to the Bench: 1/4" x 2" Lag Screws into Wood, or 1/4" Carrage Bolts and nuts if drilling through, don't forget to buy Bolts (Socket heads look good and are easier to get in/out) to bolt the Press to the Plate.
Click to expand...

Or you could just buy a mount.

inlinefabrication.com

UltraMounts™ – Inline Fabrication

ultramount riser strong mount mount stand inline fabrication reloading ammunition ammo hand loading hornady dillon lee lyman redding RCBS ERGO solid storage
inlinefabrication.com
 
Depick

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Well my Loadmaster arrived today. It is pretty rough and was caked in grease and what seemed like 8oz of powder. I spent hours cleaning it just to get the shell plate to move.

It will be a bit before it is ready to go. I need to round up the parts to convert it for 9mm. I’m going to add a new case feeder and a bullet feeder.
 
Depick

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Well I have spent at least twenty hours tinkering with the Lee Loadmaster I bought off eBay. This thing is a lost cause and refuses to function consistently. It’s either not pushing the shells far enough into the shell plate, getting jammed up and not indexing or crushing the edges of the cases. I’ve gone through 3 case sliders, lubed everything and adjusted everything. I’m going to sell the parts I can and junk the rest. Back to my original thought of getting a Prochucker or a Dillon.
 
FP1201

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The Pro-1000's I started with took a bit of tweaking to get reliable, that said I use Dillon and RCBS for multi-station production now.
 
repete

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Depick said:
Well I have spent at least twenty hours tinkering with the Lee Loadmaster I bought off eBay. This thing is a lost cause and refuses to function consistently. It’s either not pushing the shells far enough into the shell plate, getting jammed up and not indexing or crushing the edges of the cases. I’ve gone through 3 case sliders, lubed everything and adjusted everything. I’m going to sell the parts I can and junk the rest. Back to my original thought of getting a Prochucker or a Dillon.
Click to expand...
Clean the sliders and give them a light coating of powdered graphite, works well for me. I have also tried a VERY light coating in the primer chute and that worked but I've also been worried about primers backing out when fired, I never had that happen but still it was in the back of my mind. I recently tried some gun stock wax and it seems to be working real good.
 
gun_slinger_boy

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Yup. Got it. In the very last picture of the rod that gets tightened down by the hex head. You actually want to slightly elevate it an 1/8 inch or two and then sinch it down. Basically, you'll do trial and error until the casing slides all the way forward into the shell plate. Shouldn't take much elevation at all. It's also a good idea to put something of uniform shape between this rod and the shelf while sinching down so the rod doesn't twist towards the shelf. You can use anything that keeps a uniform gap between the two objects. I'm picturing a 32 casing but again, you can use anything. A pencil works well with its flat sides.

1743122657940.png

1743122762013.png
 
Depick

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gun_slinger_boy said:
Yup. Got it. In the very last picture of the rod that gets tightened down by the hex head. You actually want to slightly elevate it an 1/8 inch or two and then sinch it down. Basically, you'll do trial and error until the casing slides all the way forward into the shell plate. Shouldn't take much elevation at all. It's also a good idea to put something of uniform shape between this rod and the shelf while sinching down so the rod doesn't twist towards the shelf. You can use anything that keeps a uniform gap between the two objects. I'm picturing a 32 casing but again, you can use anything. A pencil works well with its flat sides.

View attachment 261724

View attachment 261725
Click to expand...

I’ll give that a try later today. Thank you!
 
repete

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Also take a bit of fine steel wool (000) and polish up the 'arm' the case slide slides on, make it smooth and shiny.
 
Robin

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When I got back into reloading I tried to find information on all the latest stuff. I repeatedly found discussions of people fiddling with the Lee equipment. When I do a job, I don't like having to do a job, to do a job, like fiddle with the equipment so I can reload. I do have some Lee stuff but when I bought the nuts and bolts for my operation I went with names that pretty much set the standards for this activity.
Robin
 
Depick

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Well @gun_slinger_boy suggestion worked. I still have issues with the case slider itself tipping the case but when it doesn’t tip it goes in the shell plate just fine.

I’m still trying to get it to index smoothly and the bullet feeder is a nightmare. I’ll have it dialed in by summer or it’ll be gone. Way more screwing around than I anticipated or want to deal with.
 
gun_slinger_boy

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Keep it simple at first. Remove the bullet feeder out of the equation. Can you show the tube the casings come down from with casings inside the tube? I'd like to see the proximity of the steel neck to the casings' webbing.
 
Depick

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gun_slinger_boy said:
Keep it simple at first. Remove the bullet feeder out of the equation. Can you show the tube the casings come down from with casings inside the tube? I'd like to see the proximity of the steel neck to the casings' webbing.
Click to expand...
You’re right. The bullet feeder is coming off tomorrow.

IMG_1027.jpeg IMG_1026.jpeg IMG_1028.jpeg IMG_1029.jpeg IMG_1030.jpeg
 
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