Any 1911 smiths on here?

[SMO]

I just stripped my 1911 down to restake a loose plunger tube, and noticed some odd wear on the frame in a few spots.

The first spot is around the magazine catch retainer. There’s a chunk missing where the retainer pushes on the frame.

The second spot is on the left side thumb safety hole. It’s also got a chunk missing at the bottom

Another issue I have with this gun is that it bends the seat pin about every 500rds or so, causing the safety to click off when the trigger is pulled.

I’m wondering if all of these issues could be symptoms of a weak recoil spring? If I replace the spring is there anything I can do prevent further damage especially around the magazine catch? Maybe a retainer with a wider tab?

 

[SMO]

The gun is a aluminum framed 4.25”

 

[fnfalguy]

@OnSight Firearms Training paging Mr. Ben.....paging Mr. Ben.

Before you blacked it out, looking like a Kimber serial #. Is it?

 

[SMO]

Para USA

 

[OnSight Firearms Training]

Frame is toast. Mag catch area isnt an issue but that thumb safety area will lead to sear click and thumb safety failure. If I was still working where I used to work, and saw this we would contact you to replace the frame.

 

[Deplorable Me]

What kind of loads are you shooting? Target or diet of self defense?

 

[SMO]

@OnSight Firearms Training, that’s what I was afraid of. How would that work with Nys permit laws? The new frame would have a new serial number. So would it be the same process as getting a new pistol? I’m thinking I might not bother trying to get it warrantied, and just buy a new steel frame.


@Deplorable Me Mostly target loads, about 3000 rounds through the gun. Almost all of it Winchester white box

 

[OnSight Firearms Training]

@OnSight Firearms Training, that’s what I was afraid of. How would that work with Nys permit laws? The new frame would have a new serial number. So would it be the same process as getting a new pistol? I’m thinking I might not bother trying to get it warrantied, and just buy a new steel frame.


Yes for NY you would have to amend the permit to say it was disposed of at the Manufacturer and then a new pistol would be acquired from the dealer they ship it back to, same as a new pistol.
Once the thumb safety hole is out of spec, (peened), the action and inner workings of the gun are compromised.

 

[dsdmmat]

Para USA is no longer in business, they were bought out by Remington and disbanded. You won’t be able to warranty the gun so you might want to look at a new frame for the gun.

Does it have a ramped barrel or a standard barrel? If it is a standard barrel almost any 1911 frame will work. If it is ramped it is probably a Clark/Para ramp design and the rock island frames should work perfectly for it. Otherwise you would either need to replace the barrel with a non ramped one or cut the frame. Both options are about 1/2 hour of work with the right tools.

for what it is worth there is a “para for life” contact page on a Remington site. Don’t know how far you will get but here is the contact info.

Para Firearms
1816 Remington Circle SW
Huntsville, AL 35824

Consumer Service
Phone: 1-888-999-9386
Fax: 336-548-7801
Email: contact@para-usa.com
Mon-Fri 9:00 AM -5:00 PM Eastern

 

[OnSight Firearms Training]

Both options are about 1/2 hour of work with the right tools.

........and the right knowledge and skills.

I'd recommend finding an experienced, competent, professional gunsmith to do the work.

 

[dsdmmat]

........and the right knowledge and skills.

I'd recommend finding an experienced, competent, professional gunsmith to do the work.

True a good 1911 smith or a good machinist could do it with the right diagrams easily. Or maybe even someone who has built them as a hobby for 30 years could do it. Or a guy who just knows how to use tools and read spec sheets. But to each their own.

 

[SMO]

I’ll try emailing para and see what they say.

It’s a standard barrel, so that’s good.

Most of the frames I’ve seen for sale so far are 70 series. My gun is an 80 series. Can I use my trigger group in a 70 series frame and leave out the firing pin block parts?

I’ve done some minor gun work, built a few ars and an ak, but some of the fitting required on a 1911 looks like it might be beyond my abilities. Looks like I have a bunch of research to do.

Thanks for all the answers so far

 

[OnSight Firearms Training]

True a good 1911 smith or a good machinist could do it with the right diagrams easily. Or maybe even someone who has built them as a hobby for 30 years could do it. Or a guy who just knows how to use tools and read spec sheets. But to each their own.

I can read spread sheets, I have a great socket set. I take my car to a professional for most work on it. It's one thing to upgrade, or "assemble" a gun, but to alter or modify a frame or an intergral working part of important specification to a firearm.....I'd choose someone who really knows what they are doing. But, to each their own as they say. JMHO as someone who has worked on guns all day, everyday professionaly, at an actual firearms manufacurer, for nearly a decade. If I had a dollar for every "botch job" or "home and/or gunshop gunsmith modification" on guns that I have had the misfortune of telling the owners, that their warranty has been voided, or that their gun is so fucked up by whoever worked on it before they sent it in that it is essentially ruined and needs to be destroyed, I'd buy The United States and kick out anyone who doesn't vote pro-gun. Not saying YOU in particular don;t know what you are doing, just 90% of the guys who I hear tell me "they work on their own guns", can't fit a 1911 grip safety to their MSH, nor can they properly tune a sear spring or "cut" their sear.

 

[OnSight Firearms Training]

I’ll try emailing para and see what they say.

It’s a standard barrel, so that’s good.

Most of the frames I’ve seen for sale so far are 70 series. My gun is an 80 series. Can I use my trigger group in a 70 series frame and leave out the firing pin block parts?

I’ve done some minor gun work, built a few ars and an ak, but some of the fitting required on a 1911 looks like it might be beyond my abilities. Looks like I have a bunch of research to do.

Thanks for all the answers so far

I have an half assembled Caspian frame for sale. $200 plus ship to an FFL and it's yours.

 

[kev74]

It would be kind of fun to try welding up and recutting the safety hole.

 

[OnSight Firearms Training]

It would be kind of fun to try welding up and recutting the safety hole.

 

[kev74]

View attachment 113815

Its already garbage. It can't get any worse.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

 

[OnSight Firearms Training]

Its already garbage. It can't get any worse.

You aint wrong!!!!

 

[SMO]

I have an half assembled Caspian frame for sale. $200 plus ship to an FFL and it's yours.

That’s very generous of you. Any chance it’s a commander length frame?

 

[dsdmmat]

I’ll try emailing para and see what they say.

It’s a standard barrel, so that’s good.

Most of the frames I’ve seen for sale so far are 70 series. My gun is an 80 series. Can I use my trigger group in a 70 series frame and leave out the firing pin block parts?

I’ve done some minor gun work, built a few ars and an ak, but some of the fitting required on a 1911 looks like it might be beyond my abilities. Looks like I have a bunch of research to do.

Thanks for all the answers so far

Yes you can easily convert your series 80 to a series 70 by leaving those parts out. You will also have to take the plunger and spring out of the slide. It will leave a hole but it will not harm anything.

 

[dsdmmat]

I can read spread sheets, I have a great socket set. I take my car to a professional for most work on it. It's one thing to upgrade, or "assemble" a gun, but to alter or modify a frame or an intergral working part of important specification to a firearm.....I'd choose someone who really knows what they are doing. But, to each their own as they say. JMHO as someone who has worked on guns all day, everyday professionaly, at an actual firearms manufacurer, for nearly a decade. If I had a dollar for every "botch job" or "home and/or gunshop gunsmith modification" on guns that I have had the misfortune of telling the owners, that their warranty has been voided, or that their gun is so fucked up by whoever worked on it before they sent it in that it is essentially ruined and needs to be destroyed, I'd buy The United States and kick out anyone who doesn't vote pro-gun. Not saying YOU in particular don;t know what you are doing, just 90% of the guys who I hear tell me "they work on their own guns", can't fit a 1911 grip safety to their MSH, nor can they properly tune a sear spring or "cut" their sear.

Very true statement 90% of the population couldn’t tell you the difference between a grade 5 and grade 8 bolt. Unfortunately I have seen a lot of “professional” gunsmiths screw up mounting scopes on rifles and swap barrel links for “tighter” lock ups on 1911s. It is not that difficult to get a gunsmith FFL.

One of the most misunderstood things on the 1911 is barrel timing. A good 1911 smith is worth their weight and reputation in gold. Unfortunately they are few and far between. With the rise in popularity of polymer guns they are getting harder and harder to find.

I do know one in Jefferson county and he is very busy all the time. I have been fortunate to learn the craft of making guns from some of the best (IMHO) in the business. I started 30 years ago with 1911 frame swaps from single stacks to double stacks, with the Para Gunsmith frame kits. Went onto trigger jobs and fitting barrels. Eventually I worked up the nerve to do my own frames. Haven’t looked back sense. Gun smithing is not for everyone but it is also not chemical engineering. There is no reward in not trying. There is A bit of risk in doing it yourself but the reward for a job well done is well worth the risk when you are successful.

 

[repete]

It would be kind of fun to try welding up and recutting the safety hole.

Or drilling and bushing the hole, if you knew someone with a mill. personally I'd try to fix it as a learning experience , what's the worst thing to happen? I fuck it up? I would however make sure it never made it's way to someone else!

 

[prambo]

Para USA

First handgun I bought after getting back from Africa was an aluminum framed P-12 (.45 ACP). After about 6 months (guessing in 1996), I sent it to Wilson Combat for a total workup - trigger work, extended safety and slide release, beavertail grip safety, slide tightening and a Wilson Combat barrel.

They called me and told me the aluminum frame was cracked. It was replaced with a steel frame, and I had to do all the massing about to change the serial number on my permit.

Haven't liked aluminum frames since. Especially if you use the weapon a lot.

I'd replace it with a steel frame.

The steel framed P-12 is now sort of FUBAR - missing a piece from the left rail above the slide release hole. It's now unreliable so it's a safe queen.

Worked fine for years - thousands and thousands of full power rounds in training. Incredibly accurate after Bill Wilson worked his magic. I shot bullseye for years and was at the club working the Para out. One guy, on the NYS Pistol Team, couldn't believe the groups with full-horse 230 gr FMJ. He shot an inside course with it and shot a 298 out of 300 first try.

As far as the P-12 went (hasn't been produced in years), IMHO, it was too much juice in a short recoil cycle handgun. Even the steel frame didn't hack the mission although it did see lots of use.

Miss the weight, smoothness and accuracy.

 

[Saltwater60]

I personally love my para p12. I love the price even more. $3.00 to add it to my permit. Fantastic gun. I don’t shoot it a ton but when I do I’m in love.

I’m sure there were good frames and bad frames but most user comments are positive. The professionals seem to not like them