Any Colt/clone SAA fans out there?

[CaseHardened]

That's what I assumed, lol. Jesus @CaseHardened you nearly gave me a panic attack, lol.

Sorry, my friend.

But shit like this is worth verifying, right ?

My new Uberti 1858 Remington is TOTALLY BP only.

I don't want anyone maimed.

 

[CaseHardened]

Any new Pedersli or Uberti is going to have Ammo Restrictions stamped right into the Barrel.

 

[ArmedCorgi]

So I go to my ffl to inspect the revolver and my gunbroker fears are realized. The cylinder lock up is crap! I can counter rotate the cylinder when the hammer is down in at rest and when fully cocked some times it locks fine other times its very movable. The tab that locks the cylinder (locking bolt I guess) is spongy as in it depresses easy compared to another SAA my dealer had. Also the scallops in the cylinder that that locking bolt engages did seem a little shallow. I don't know what to do now. The sale was AS IS with no refund or exchange, but the guy advertised it as in "excellent condition". From the looks of his FB he deals in mostly AR's and AK's so its possible he just didn't know what to look for in a used revolver. If this is an easy fix, which it very well might be, it's not an issue but if this thing is going to cost me more than I paid for it to fix that sucks. I took video but I don't have hosting to post them. Need some help guys! Here are more photo's

 

[CaseHardened]

So I go to my ffl to inspect the revolver and my gunbroker fears are realized. The cylinder lock up is crap! I can counter rotate the cylinder when the hammer is down in at rest and when fully cocked some times it locks fine other times its very movable. The tab that locks the cylinder is spongy as in it depresses easy compared to another SAA my dealer had. Also the scallops in the cylinder that that tab engages did seem a little shallow. I don't know what to do now. The sale was AS IS with no refund or exchange, but the guy advertised it as in "excellent condition". From the looks of his FB he deals in mostly AR's and AK's so its possible he just didn't know what to look for in a used revolver. If this is an easy fix, which it very well might be, it's not an issue but if this thing is going to cost me more than I paid for it to fix that sucks. I took video but I don't have hosting to post them. Need some help guys! Here are more photo's
View attachment 25580 View attachment 25581 View attachment 25582 View attachment 25583

Send it back.

I've sent stuff back from GB before.

The Seller was not pleased, but I got my refund.

I usually pay for Return Shipping just so as not to be thought a total dick.

Some of the edges seem to be rounded - evidence of a bad refinish job. I can't be sure of that from just the pics, tho.

 

[ArmedCorgi]

I'm reading it may be a bad bolt spring, which is common and not a huge deal. The cylinder could have been refinished and maybe the notches got worn a little too much but the roll marks on it still looked crisp.

 

[CaseHardened]

I'm reading it may be a bad bolt spring, which is common and not a huge deal. The cylinder could have been refinished and maybe the notches got worn a little too much but the roll marks on it still looked crisp.

Hopefully that is all it is.

BTW, I totally suck at Gun Smithing.

 

[ArmedCorgi]

If anyone knows of a good gunsmith in the Albany area, please let me know. @Bullet Guy @GUNSICK
@S&W Fan

 

[ArmedCorgi]

Here is a gif of what the cylinder does with the hammer down.

 

[SmallGameAddict]

I mean 357 magnum was never a BP round like the 45 long colt was, right?

Nope. The .357 mag was a 1930's development, inspired by the .38 Spl. Due to the fact that the .38 was originally blackpowder, the use of smokeless left a lot of empty room in the .38 case. A few hardy souls kept adding powder, shot in heavy frame .38's that wouldn't come unglued with the hot loads. The factories extended the case length by 1/10 of an inch, to prevent it from being chambered in .38 revolvers, and poof the .357 Mag was born.

 

[Criticalt]

Here's my Uberti 1873 Cattleman, in 45lc. I love this revolver, it matches up nicely with my 45lc lever action.

View attachment 25476

I have this exact gun, in 45LC, I love it.
Mine appears to have a darker grip but it might be the lighting in your picture.

 

[SmallGameAddict]

Here is a gif of what the cylinder does with the hammer down. View attachment 25593

Here is a gif of what the cylinder does with the hammer down. View attachment 25593

Is this supposed to be a true 4 click revolver?

 

[ArmedCorgi]

Is this supposed to be a true 4 click revolver?

Yes, it has the four clicks. The cylinder isn't supposed to what the gif shows it doing though. So I'm at an impass with what to do. Try to send it back and get my money back or just fix it. So far what I've found is its an issue with the bolt/bolt trigger spring (easily replaced) and perhaps the cylinder has some peening on the bolt notches so maybe replace the cylinder if it's available. I just don't know if you can just replace the bolt and cylinder without "fitting" them together or if they are able to be swapped out without a gunsmith.

 

[SmallGameAddict]

Yes, it has the four clicks. The cylinder isn't supposed to what the gif shows it doing though. So I'm at an impass with what to do. Try to send it back and get my money back or just fix it. So far what I've found is its an issue with the bolt/bolt trigger spring (easily replaced) and perhaps the cylinder has some peening on the bolt notches so maybe replace the cylinder if it's available. I just don't know if you can just replace the bolt and cylinder without "fitting" them together or if they are able to be swapped out without a gunsmith.

I think the 'bolt' you are referring to is the cylinder latch, which locks into the notches in the cylinder, so the chamber is aligned properly with the forcing cone and thus the batrel, when the hammer is fully cocked. If you replace the cylinder, the cylinder gap needs to be checked for proper clearance and adjusted if necessary before use.

 

[SmallGameAddict]

If I remember correctly, the hammer has 3 positions, all the way forward, partly cocked which is the loading position as this allows the cylinder to rotate freely, and all the way back, which is the fully cocked position.

 

[SmallGameAddict]

And the old...load one, skip one, load four. Been awhile since I had a 4 click Colt pattern revolver, but I do believe you're right, the cylinder should only rotate with the hammer in the loading position.

 

[ArmedCorgi]

I think the 'bolt' you are referring to is the cylinder latch, which locks into the notches in the cylinder, so the chamber is aligned properly with the forcing cone and thus the batrel, when the hammer is fully cocked. If you replace the cylinder, the cylinder gap needs to be checked for proper clearance and adjusted if necessary before use.

Yes thats the part. I kept seeing it mentioned as the bolt on SAA forums. How complicated is having the cylinder gap checked? The cylinder latch/bolt what have you, was able to be depressed with very little pressure. A lot less pressure than the Colt my dealer had on hand. So if it's just a spring it shouldn't be that complicated to fix. Idk. My dealer is holding it until I decide what to do. I figure I'll contact the seller even though the sale was listed as an as is sale. He didn't mention any problems in the description. I realize its buyer beware but there wasn't enough time for questions and he listed it as in excellent condition. It's a matter of do I keep it and go through the process of adding it to my permit, try to fix it myself or send it to a gunsmith and possibly end up spending more than I bought the gun for? It could be something simple and nominal to fix or it could be hundreds. I mean, I have no idea what a smith even charges per hour Etc.

 

[redtail]

Yes thats the part. I kept seeing it mentioned as the bolt on SAA forums. How complicated is having the cylinder gap checked? The cylinder latch/bolt what have you, was able to be depressed with very little pressure. A lot less pressure than the Colt my dealer had on hand. So if it's just a spring it shouldn't be that complicated to fix. Idk. My dealer is holding it until I decide what to do. I figure I'll contact the seller even though the sale was listed as an as is sale. He didn't mention any problems in the description. I realize its buyer beware but there wasn't enough time for questions and he listed it as in excellent condition. It's a matter of do I keep it and go through the process of adding it to my permit, try to fix it myself or send it to a gunsmith and possibly end up spending more than I bought the gun for? It could be something simple and nominal to fix or it could be hundreds. I mean, I have no idea what a smith even charges per hour Etc.

Nice looker. I would post this up in some larger forums , perhaps you could get some expert opinion and or direction. jm(nonexpert)o.

 

[S&W Fan]

Sorry bud, but I don’t know of any good smiths in the Albany area. It may be an easy fix and then again it might not. Timing issues are a PITA. If I were you I would send it back. IMHO that is far from “excellent condition “

 

[Darth]

I would send that back faster than you can say "I've never seen such an out of time revolver."

And then have them royally screw you because you accepted the transfer.

 

[ArmedCorgi]

I would send that back faster than you can say "I've never seen such an out of time revolver."

And then have them royally screw you because you accepted the transfer.

I haven't had it transfered to me yet. My dealer is holding on to it while I sort this out.

 

[ArmedCorgi]

Sorry bud, but I don’t know of any good smiths in the Albany area. It may be an easy fix and then again it might not. Timing issues are a PITA. If I were you I would send it back. IMHO that is far from “excellent condition “

Any in NY state? Or in the North East?

 

[ArmedCorgi]

Well, I sent the seller a message making him aware of the issue and that even though the sale was listed as 'as is', he described the revolver as 'in excellent condition' and that I feel it was misrepresented in the sale. I hope he is accommodating and will give me a refund, but I'm fully expecting him to tell me to pound salt. I guess I can do a claim through gunbroker but it looks like a royal pain. Between this and the bs I delt with with the Foxtrot Mike AR9 bolt, I've been having crappy luck with guns lately.

 

[SmallGameAddict]

Yes thats the part. I kept seeing it mentioned as the bolt on SAA forums. How complicated is having the cylinder gap checked? The cylinder latch/bolt what have you, was able to be depressed with very little pressure. A lot less pressure than the Colt my dealer had on hand. So if it's just a spring it shouldn't be that complicated to fix. Idk. My dealer is holding it until I decide what to do. I figure I'll contact the seller even though the sale was listed as an as is sale. He didn't mention any problems in the description. I realize its buyer beware but there wasn't enough time for questions and he listed it as in excellent condition. It's a matter of do I keep it and go through the process of adding it to my permit, try to fix it myself or send it to a gunsmith and possibly end up spending more than I bought the gun for? It could be something simple and nominal to fix or it could be hundreds. I mean, I have no idea what a smith even charges per hour Etc.[/QE]
The cylinder gap is checked with a simple flat feeler gauge, between the revolver face and the forcing cone. Now, with the hammer fully forward like you just pulled the trigger and fired a round, does the cylinder freely rotate CW? Or is it 'locked' in place by the latch? Second, when you pull the hammer back to the 'safe/loading' position, can you open the loading gate and rotate the cylinder CW to load? Third, when you pull the hammer all the way back to the 'fire' position, does the cylinder rotate CW or CCW, or is it firmly locked in place? If locked in place, is there any appreciable play?

 

[ArmedCorgi]

The cylinder gap is checked with a simple flat feeler gauge, between the revolver face and the forcing cone. Now, with the hammer fully forward like you just pulled the trigger and fired a round, does the cylinder freely rotate CW? Or is it 'locked' in place by the latch? Second, when you pull the hammer back to the 'safe/loading' position, can you open the loading gate and rotate the cylinder CW to load? Third, when you pull the hammer all the way back to the 'fire' position, does the cylinder rotate CW or CCW, or is it firmly locked in place? If locked in place, is there any appreciable play?

When in half cock(loading position) the cylinder rotates freely as it should. With the hammer fully forward (fired position) the cylinder rotates CW and some CCW (see gif below). With the hammer all the way back (cocked) some chambers seem to lock up nice and tight, others there is an uncomfortable amount of play and looseness. The cylinder itself, also seemed way more difficult to get out and put back into the frame then it should be. That is, putting it in half cock, opening the loading gate, depressing the base pin retainer plunger, pulling the pin out and removing the cylinder. Putting the cylinder back in was a pain. It didn't seem to want to line up. I have a Heritage Rough Rider, a much lower quality gun and it disassembles/reassembles much smoother. Maybe that's a bad comparison but you can tell something is just off with it other than the obvious cylinder issues.

 

[Robin]

I'd send it back too, sorry it didn't work out Corgy.
Robin

 

[ArmedCorgi]

Also, The seller got back to me and will take the revolver back and refund my money. I know there is a chance this could be a very cheap fix, as in just a spring is broken or weak, but there is also the chance that this could be something more complicated and expensive to fix, not to mention it could be months before I would get it back. This isn't what I thought I was buying and I'm not a gunsmith. While I did seem to get a deal, I didn't pay that much less than a new Uberti.

 

[SmallGameAddict]

Also, The seller got back to me and will take the revolver back and refund my money. I know there is a chance this could be a very cheap fix, as in just a spring is broken or weak, but there is also the chance that this could be something more complicated and expensive to fix, not to mention it could be months before I would get it back. This isn't what I thought I was buying and I'm not a gunsmith. While I did seem to get a deal, I didn't pay that much less than a new Uberti.

Thanks for the patient explanation. I was trying to be helpful, and understand the difficulty, starting at square one on the flow chart. The cylinder doesn't show drag marks indicative of a lot of use, at least what I can tell from pics/vids. Sounds like a factory lemon, or real hot load(s) were fired in it.

 

[ArmedCorgi]

Thanks for the patient explanation. I was trying to be helpful, and understand the difficulty, starting at square one on the flow chart. The cylinder doesn't show drag marks indicative of a lot of use, at least what I can tell from pics/vids. Sounds like a factory lemon, or real hot load(s) were fired in it.

That was one thing that stumped my dealer and I. There were some drag marks on near the cylinder notches but no ring around the enture cylinder. The notches did seem a little shallow to me, so it's possible it had been refinished, yet the roll markings on the cylinder seemed crisp. The grips had been refinished or at minimum had been sanded to remove the poly. You could also tell someone who wasn't a gunsmith had taken the revolver apart. The back strap screw on the bottom of the grip was chewed up bad by the wrong size screwdriver. My dealer at first thought it may have been unfired, but closer inspection proved it has indeed been fired.

 

[SmallGameAddict]

Yeh, hard to say, which came first, the chicken or the egg. Revolver originally fine, clueless DIY 'gunsmith' disassembled, then reassembled incorrectly, or factory lemon, and disassembled/reassembled in attempt to fix problem themselves. The damaged screw is a shame, indicative of cob job attempt at 'repair'. Cimarron Arms may have made it 'right', at no charge other than shipping, if it hadn't been monkeyed with first.

 

[CaseHardened]

I have this exact gun, in 45LC, I love it.
Mine appears to have a darker grip but it might be the lighting in your picture.

Can't go wrong with an Uberti.

Unless someone screwswith it.