Saltwater60
.950 JDJ
I think it’s the only one they make but just in case this is the cession I’m speaking of. I’d like to get a better one for this coming season. Thoughts? Other suggestions?

I think you can adjust the numbers to your range and speed, but yes you brought up my main concern because I’m pushing 425 FPS and I didn’t see much drop at all from 20-40 yards. I had the same point of impact at both ranges so I would say there was no drop.Never really paid too much attention to my crossbow scope. I was kind of surprised the Vortex has numerical marking on the elevation. While you need markings for arrow drop, I'd think those numbers would confuse anyone whose setup doesn't jive with those numbers. Kind of like the Quigley Ford scopes out there.
That makes two of us, but I have seen many reviews were people say things like this about verifying your bows speed and then setting the scope to that speed and your good to go? That’s part of what attracted me to the scope. I’m certainly no scope expert and that’s certainly something I need to learn more about.With those being etched into the reticle I don't see how they can be changed.
Maybe you're right. Never used one with anything other than a simple reticle.That makes two of us, but I have seen many reviews were people say things like this about verifying your bows speed and then setting the scope to that speed and your good to go? That’s part of what attracted me to the scope. I’m certainly no scope expert and that’s certainly something I need to learn more about.
Me neither. That’s part of the point of me posting this. Maybe I’ll try to find the instructions on line today to review them.Maybe you're right. Never used one with anything other than a simple reticle.
Yeah. I'd have to investigate. As someone who reloads and deals with varying bullet drops at different distances, "custom" scope reticle make little sense. Things change frequently and traditional reticle allow you to readjust your dope based on that. I feel arrows function on basically the same concept. If you don't have a chronograph then you have to rely on testing distance and point of impact. Interested to learn more.Me neither. That’s part of the point of me posting this. Maybe I’ll try to find the instructions on line today to review them.
I’ve read many reviews and one or two articles that say you set the arrow speed and everything just lines up. They have bullet drop compensators some why not arrow drop compensators?? I know some scopes you can get different reticles for different bullets and weights. Maybe they found a way to make this one changeable on the fly since crossbow speeds aren’t super different these days. I don’t know. I looked on vortex site and there wasn’t much in there other than reviews claiming this. You’d think that would be a huge selling point if this were the case.
I agree with what you’re saying 100%. I also find it odd that the directions say set up a 6 yards center o target, then go to 40 yards and you should have the same point of impact. If that’s the case why do you have the center of the crosshairs then 10 and 20 yard hash marks above that. Then you drop down below the center for 30 and 40 yard holdovers. If this was the case you’d think the center of the crosshairs would be for 0-40 yards then have the hold over for 50-100 yards, but I’m just a simpleton I guess.Yeah. I'd have to investigate. As someone who reloads and deals with varying bullet drops at different distances, "custom" scope reticle make little sense. Things change frequently and traditional reticle allow you to readjust your dope based on that. I feel arrows function on basically the same concept. If you don't have a chronograph then you have to rely on testing distance and point of impact. Interested to learn more.
Hash marks above the reticle would be for shorter distances. Same applies with rifle scopes. If I'm zeroed in at 250 yards because that's what I normally shoot, I can use the higher vertical markings for shorter distances. Different magnification levels shouldn't need to change the point of aim through the scope. You're right. Who has time to distance a moving target, make scope adjustments, and then use some sort of magic marker? You have too many other things to deal with at that moment. I want to raise the scope, maybe make a small magnification adjustment, and be ready to squeeze.I agree with what you’re saying 100%. I also find it odd that the directions say set up a 6 yards center o target, then go to 40 yards and you should have the same point of impact. If that’s the case why do you have the center of the crosshairs then 10 and 20 yard hash marks above that. Then you drop down below the center for 30 and 40 yard holdovers. If this was the case you’d think the center of the crosshairs would be for 0-40 yards then have the hold over for 50-100 yards, but I’m just a simpleton I guess.
Also after further reading the directions it appears that they say if your 60 yard shot is low you adjust the magnification to the point of impact. So after the shot you look, don’t move the bow(ok?) and then you adjust the magnification until the 60 yard hash mark is where your point of impact is. Then it says to use a marker to mark the rage on the magnifier. Seems a bit wonky to me and a PIA to adjust that one the fly while a deer is in front of your face.
Yes I get that about the hash marks about the crosshairs being for shorter distances. Im confused because the directions for this very scope say to shoot at 6 yards and at 40 yards, and the point of impact should be the same or close. If that’s the case why are there 4 hash marks for 10-40 yards? Shouldn’t it be just the crosshairs if this is the case. Then the hash marks should be used for 40+ yards?Hash marks above the reticle would be for shorter distances. Same applies with rifle scopes. If I'm zeroed in at 250 yards because that's what I normally shoot, I can use the higher vertical markings for shorter distances. Different magnification levels shouldn't need to change the point of aim through the scope. You're right. Who has time to distance a moving target, make scope adjustments, and then use some sort of magic marker? You have too many other things to deal with at that moment. I want to raise the scope, maybe make a small magnification adjustment, and be ready to squeeze.
EDIT:
I watched the video and still not completely sure I understand the concept.