chris1977
.40 S&W
Ok I am having an issue with my latest build. Maybe you guys can help me out. I give details in the video but if I missed something ask and I will get the info.
Ar Gas System Help!
- Thread starter chris1977
- Start date
Try describing the problem in type. The 10 seconds of the video I looked at, seems like the bolt is not locking back.
Q: Are you using factory or reloaded ammo?
Q: Do you have an adjustable gas block?
Q: What size is the gas port in the barrel?
Q: Are you sure the gas block is aligned properly.
Q: What weight buffer are you running in your lower with the problems?
Q: Are you using factory or reloaded ammo?
Q: Do you have an adjustable gas block?
Q: What size is the gas port in the barrel?
Q: Are you sure the gas block is aligned properly.
Q: What weight buffer are you running in your lower with the problems?
chris1977
.40 S&W
Q: what powder were you using and was it the minimum charge?
Q: if you pulled your gas block off was the carbon ring even all the way around the port on the barrel?
You might need to open up your gas port to .082-.084. or get a flat wire recoil spring.
Q: if you pulled your gas block off was the carbon ring even all the way around the port on the barrel?
You might need to open up your gas port to .082-.084. or get a flat wire recoil spring.
S
stuck in ny
Guest
Are you using a gas block that was made for use with a standard military hand guard end cap? That could make it not line up without it, I think.
chris1977
.40 S&W
H335 with a 55g projectile loaded to 24g.
Yes even ring. Hard to see in the image since I wiped down a bit.
I am wondering if this is something I can do as far as opening the port goes? Along with the spring would it be wise to get a heavier buffer?
Yes even ring. Hard to see in the image since I wiped down a bit.
I am wondering if this is something I can do as far as opening the port goes? Along with the spring would it be wise to get a heavier buffer?
chris1977
.40 S&W
Nope regular old gas block with a free float rail.
Eddie Gunks
.338 Win Mag
1st. Please be aware that an AR could slam fire when you put a bullet in the chamber and drop the slide with no mag in it. Pls becareful.
Your bolt was not locking back on the 1st two rounds cause you did not have a mag in it.
A carbine buffer system will work on and gas system. A rifle buffer system will also work on any system. I have never had a problem mixing and matching. Never.
Please tell us in words what your problem is. I dont have the patients to sit through 7+ min of range video. Thx
Your bolt was not locking back on the 1st two rounds cause you did not have a mag in it.
A carbine buffer system will work on and gas system. A rifle buffer system will also work on any system. I have never had a problem mixing and matching. Never.
Please tell us in words what your problem is. I dont have the patients to sit through 7+ min of range video. Thx
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Eddie Gunks
.338 Win Mag
your loads sound fine.
Oil your bolt. It may be dragging.
Makes sure bolt is not hanging up going in or Out.
What gas block? Cheap gas blocks are usually the problem.
Dont fuck with the hole. It is fine. Barrel makers know their job. The machines do their job.
Cheap chinese gas block is your issue.
Or cheap chinese buffers. What color is your buffer?
Oil your bolt. It may be dragging.
Makes sure bolt is not hanging up going in or Out.
What gas block? Cheap gas blocks are usually the problem.
Dont fuck with the hole. It is fine. Barrel makers know their job. The machines do their job.
Cheap chinese gas block is your issue.
Or cheap chinese buffers. What color is your buffer?
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chris1977
.40 S&W
About 2:40 shows what it is doing.
Black buffer.
Black buffer.
Eddie Gunks
.338 Win Mag
DING DING DING!!!!!
Winner! Buy a new american made buffer. Gold anodized color. I have them. This will solve your problem.
Acer-m14
20×102mm Vulcan
what cal ?? looks like a short stroke , bolt ejected but didnt get back far enough to catch the next round
... 300 aac BO need a pistol gas system .. so they say ..it did fix my friends and his wifes ARs .. now they shoot fine ,
i'm gunna have to make a AR now from a carbine system that does that .. even if i have to drill that gas port over .125 .. ( there original barrel and gas sys)
reads again oh 55gr .. must be 223 .. gas bock off or bad buffer/spring ..
... 300 aac BO need a pistol gas system .. so they say ..it did fix my friends and his wifes ARs .. now they shoot fine ,
i'm gunna have to make a AR now from a carbine system that does that .. even if i have to drill that gas port over .125 .. ( there original barrel and gas sys)
reads again oh 55gr .. must be 223 .. gas bock off or bad buffer/spring ..
chris1977
.40 S&W
I would agree with you but, since it is doing the same thing on the other lower that uses a rifle buffer and spring I am leaning towards gas issue. That is not a black buffer.
Eddie Gunks
.338 Win Mag
Again. Bad gas block and or bad buffer.
I can assure you that buffer will be a problem......either now or soon.
Send it to me. I will fix it.
chris1977
.40 S&W
A new buffer was already ordered so no worries there. Just because I wanted a better one. I knew what I had was a cheapo but got a good deal on the setup. Also I am pretty sure I can handle putting a gas block on so no need to ship it out, but thanks for the offer.
Eddie Gunks
.338 Win Mag
Buy a Good one. A steel yhm or the steel one from joe bob at the very least.
Dont use aluminum.
Edit to add.....a cheapo one is never a good deal. you are having issuse, you really did not get a good deal. You are wasting ammo and time fucking around with it.
Ammo costs money, time costs you valuable practice/shooting time you will never get back. What have you saved?
I know i said the barrels are nmost never the issue..,..but now i am concernered. Who made the barrel?
chris1977
.40 S&W
Ar stoner barrel from midway. I didn't skimp on thr barrel that's a pretty vital part. SS fluted. The stock was cheap and I knew going into it I would have to get a new buffer. The price out weighed the cost of the alternative. Someone local had it still in the original packaging unused and had went with something else. I am not a complete idiot I do kmow a little bit about these things. This one just has me stumped.
Eddie Gunks
.338 Win Mag
Then it is not your barrel. (Note: FWIW the AR stoner barrels are mass-produced for midway by an OEM company. While they are not complete junk and I think that they are manufactured correctly they are still OEM mass produced barrels. )
Gas block and buffer.
Gas block and buffer.
chris1977
.40 S&W
I am really leaning on gas block. Going to order another one as well as another tube just to be on the safe side. I don't want to keep tearing up brass. I have only put 10 rds total through it trying to narrow down issues.
Eddie Gunks
.338 Win Mag
After reading reviews about the barrel. Maybe i was wring. Maybe the stoner barrels are not drilled right.
Try gas block anyway.
Send the barrel back. Dont drill it.
Try gas block anyway.
Send the barrel back. Dont drill it.
chris1977
.40 S&W
Everything I have read, the port size is within the range for that gas length.
FWIW I had trouble with one of my early builds and tried different mags, ammo, buffer, spring etc. turned out to be the gas block. Like BulletGuy says just put a good one on it and you should be fine. Spend a bit more and get an adjustable if you want the ability to fine tune it.
You are within the .074-.086 range for mid length, on the low end but in the range. If you are losing any gas pressure (being on the low end) it would result in what you are experiencing. Once you get on the high end of the spectrum you would have over pressure problems. If it were my gun, I would put a Seekins adjustable gas block on it and tune it from there. If you get to wide open on the Seekins and still have cycling issues your problem is either in the buffer system or the gas port not wide enough for your system.
I have the same barrel you bought, the gas port was undersized when I got it. I think it was .063 I opened it up to .076 and it worked fine. I run Seekins adjustable gas blocks on everything that doesn't need a gas block larger than .750.
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chris1977
.40 S&W
That's what I am leaning towards is an adjustable gas block.
Eddie Gunks
.338 Win Mag
Rubber city armory makes it adjustable gas key. Far better solution in my opinion. No need to have to remove your handguard or fuck with trying to get underneath it.
Is also nice because of something happens you could always just drop another Bolt and standard buffer and you're running. With an adjustable gas block if you use fancy lightweight buffers and stuff like that you may not be able to get it to run if your gas block fucks up or if the setscrew falls off it's running wide-open
Whenever I see people having trouble at three gun match is it's what they're adjustable gas system and they're lightweight buffers. Personally I don't fuck with them.
I have adjustable gas keys in my select fire weapons just to see if I can tame the recoil that works very well. I'm able to turn the gas way down with the added benefit of a can keep some right on target. I have my am for turn down so far that it will not run without the can.
If these paragraphs are fucked up please forgive me, I'm using dictation while I drive.
Is also nice because of something happens you could always just drop another Bolt and standard buffer and you're running. With an adjustable gas block if you use fancy lightweight buffers and stuff like that you may not be able to get it to run if your gas block fucks up or if the setscrew falls off it's running wide-open
Whenever I see people having trouble at three gun match is it's what they're adjustable gas system and they're lightweight buffers. Personally I don't fuck with them.
I have adjustable gas keys in my select fire weapons just to see if I can tame the recoil that works very well. I'm able to turn the gas way down with the added benefit of a can keep some right on target. I have my am for turn down so far that it will not run without the can.
If these paragraphs are fucked up please forgive me, I'm using dictation while I drive.
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chris1977
.40 S&W
Well gas block should be here Wed or Thursday. I will definitely look into the adjustable gas key.
chris1977
.40 S&W
So here at the range and have adjusted every which way with both lowers and still doing the same. Could not having a brake or flash hider on and only having a thread protector cause this? I am not buuing that it is the buffer since the first lower I built has a rifle buffer in it and does the same damned thing. Really getting annoyed.
no not having the brake would not effect it.
Which gas block did you end up getting?
When all else fails:
You can use a 5/64 drill bit to open the gas port to .0781 that should give you enough gas to operate your system, with an adjustable gas block you can make sure not to over gas it easy enough. A #44 drill bit would open it up to .0860 which would be the largest you would want to go.
chris1977
.40 S&W
I got one from joebob. I adjusted in 3/4 turn increments.
A no name brand adjustable gas block? In your case you probably should have started out with it wide open and worked your way closed in 1/4 turn increments until it stopped locking back.
The proper way to adjust an adjustable gas block is:
Turn it all the way off (in)
Back it out 1 full turn then shoot it. If the bolt locks back to the rear turn it in one 1/4 turn and see if it locks back, if not turn it back to the 1 full turn position and load one round, shoot it again and repeat until it locks back at least 3 times at that setting.
If it does not lock back at one turn out make changes in 1/4 turn increments (firing one round to check if it locked the bolt to the rear). until you get it to lock the bolt to the rear at least 3 times for the same setting.
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