nortatoga
.338 Win Mag
You guys need to Calm Down Eat some OREOS!!!
Building a featureless AR
- Thread starter Fightingfish
- Start date
1075tech
.338 Win Mag
Can we still get them? They haven't been declared racist? Maybe a symbol of unity. Different together
BDinPutnam
.475 A&M Magnum
dwa12479
.338 Win Mag
You'll be very happy with that lower. Anything from Aero is nice, but the threaded bolt catch pin is sweet. The bolt catch roll pin is always my least favorite part of a lower build.
Fightingfish
.40 S&W
That's good to hear, thanks! I received a shipping update, and it turns out it’s showing up tomorrow...a rare stroke of luck in the shit sandwich that is 2020. I’m a sucker for new, quality stuff, whether it’s bass/guitar gear, fishing stuff, etc...can’t wait to finally get it all together.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
Here it comes, I can feel it...You'll get that lower tomorrow and within an hour you'll have it built. You'll be thrilled and pumped for a while but then...post build depression creeps in.. Oh yeah man, it's like a cold, wet pair of underwear.
Fightingfish
.40 S&W
Picking up my lower shortly...haven’t been able to get out at a reasonable time yet!
quick question: I’ve been reading and watching vids on assembly. What, if any, do you like to use on the lower receiver/buffer tube threads? It seems like ppl are using grease of some kind...then others are using Loctite (if they ain’t staking)... suggestions? If it’s grease, is it something I could grab at a hardware store? Any specific formula? Thanks again, folks.
quick question: I’ve been reading and watching vids on assembly. What, if any, do you like to use on the lower receiver/buffer tube threads? It seems like ppl are using grease of some kind...then others are using Loctite (if they ain’t staking)... suggestions? If it’s grease, is it something I could grab at a hardware store? Any specific formula? Thanks again, folks.
dwa12479
.338 Win Mag
I personally dont use anything on the buffer threads. Snug the castle nut nice.
Don’t use Loctite on the buffer tube threads, that’s a terrible idea. Don’t use Loctite on the receiver extension (buffer tube) or on the castle nut threads. You should use a Molybdenum Disulphide grease like Aeroshell 33MS. AeroShell 33MS does not have graphite in it. Many moly greases that people use from automotive stores have graphite in it. Graphite being used on aluminum/steel can create galvanic corrosion. Using the proper grease prevents galling between metals. Torque the castle nut down to 40ft-lbs, then stake the castle nut. Stake it in two places if possible.
Also using the proper grease not only helps prevent galvanic corrosion but it allows the builder to achieve proper torque specs. Torquing castle nuts, barrel nuts, and muzzle devices without some sort of lubricant creates false torque readings. You should also season the threads. Don’t just tighten it down once and think you’re good to go. Tighten it down and then take a breaker bar and loosen it. Do that process about 5 times. By the time you’re done you’ll realize that you were able to get the part (barrel nut/castle nut...) that you were tightening to be able to rotate even more than before even though you’re still torquing down to the same specific torque setting.
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BDinPutnam
.475 A&M Magnum
Same.
Fightingfish
.40 S&W
Think something like this would work? I have a fresh tube laying around in the garage. The upper is fully assembled, so this is only for the lower receiver/castle nut.
edit- how about adding the link? Derp. Valvoline™ Full Synthetic Grease : Product Catalog - Valvoline™
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Using something like what? I don’t see the item that you’re talking about.
Fightingfish
.40 S&W
Dammit. My bad.
Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease - Valvoline™ Global
Valvoline™ Full Synthetic Moly-Fortified Grease is Valvoline's best automotive grease. Formulated with full synthetic base oil, moly and other premium additives to provide the ultimate performance from high loads and extreme temperatures (-40°F to 400°F).
www.valvoline.com
I don’t think it has graphite in it, but I’m unsure of everything else in it. It seems ok, but I can’t promise anything. All I know is Aeroshell 33MS is what I use and is definitely good for it.Dammit. My bad.
Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease - Valvoline™ Global
Valvoline™ Full Synthetic Moly-Fortified Grease is Valvoline's best automotive grease. Formulated with full synthetic base oil, moly and other premium additives to provide the ultimate performance from high loads and extreme temperatures (-40°F to 400°F).
jw816
9mm
I watched this video when I was installing mine.
I think it may not be necessary to use thread lock for civilian use. I didn't use it anyway because I used Strike Industries Enhanced Castle Nut which has a locking mechanism. However, I found white grease is a must. The grease will reduce buffer noise greatly. I didn't use as much as the gentleman in the video. I drew two lines on two sides of the spring and put a small amount on the buffer as well.
I follow the advice from MidwayUSA, Brownells, and Kotaboy32 Tactical the most.
I think it may not be necessary to use thread lock for civilian use. I didn't use it anyway because I used Strike Industries Enhanced Castle Nut which has a locking mechanism. However, I found white grease is a must. The grease will reduce buffer noise greatly. I didn't use as much as the gentleman in the video. I drew two lines on two sides of the spring and put a small amount on the buffer as well.
I follow the advice from MidwayUSA, Brownells, and Kotaboy32 Tactical the most.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
I wouldn't use thread locker (especially red) on the buffer tube. Often what companies do is they stake the castle nut to the receiver end plate. A lot of castle nuts will have little notches cut in them on the side that presses against the receiver end plate. That is where you stake it. This way, the castle nut, as well as the buffer tube, cannot rotate loose.
jw816
9mm
You are absolutely right. I didn't think that way.
BDinPutnam
.475 A&M Magnum
Agreed and this thread is literally the first and only place I've ever seen it discussed (loctite on buffer threads) in, I'm guessing, I've been building AR's for 4-5 years now. Other than cleaning it prior to assembly, I don't use *anything* on that part of the process and I've never had one work its way out or get loose- I don't even stake em though I suppose I probably should.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
I should also add, that the receiver end plates also have an anti rotation tab that fits into the break in the threads on the bottom of the buffer tube. This, as long as the castle nut doesn't loosen, will keep the buffer tube from being able to back out.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
I have also never staked on my builds. I've only seen it on off the rack rifles.
I promise you, using any Loctite on there is 100% absolutely wrong. It’s your build so you can build it how you want, but using Loctite there is definitely not the correct way. There’s a reason why you don’t find Loctite there on any well built AR from any reputable company...it’s because it’s not supposed to be done. Here’s a good informative video from SOLGW, who makes great quality parts and firearms.
spat
.700 Nitro Express
There are places where proper torque specs and thread preparation are important.
This isn't one of them.
bare threads and "reasonably tight" are more than sufficient. It's the staking that holds it in place.
If you want to add something to make disassembly easier in the future, it won't hurt, but is unnecessary IMHO.
This isn't one of them.
bare threads and "reasonably tight" are more than sufficient. It's the staking that holds it in place.
If you want to add something to make disassembly easier in the future, it won't hurt, but is unnecessary IMHO.
dwa12479
.338 Win Mag
Not all endplates are keyed for anti-rotation. They're a PITA to get lined up.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
"Fucking, Uncle Cletus, gunshack warriors..." LMAO!!
Best part of that video. Haha
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
They can be a pain for sure. But between the tab that fits in the break in threads on the buffer tube and the recess on the bottom of the end plate that fits into the receiver, if the end plate and castle nut are properly staked, will prevent rotation. Even if the end plate lacks the tab that sits in the break in threads, it should still have that recess that fits into the receiver.
gun_slinger_boy
.338 Win Mag
Yeah the buffer tube is fine with German specs (goodentite). Honestly so are most muzzle devices grip screws etc. On a 556 at least. A barrel nut is where I would really try to follow torque specs. For obvious reasons.
jw816
9mm
I am not saying it is correct to use thread locker there and don't have enough experience to judge it is correct or not. But by my mechanical common sense, I was saying it might NOT be necessary.
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