Fixed mag to featureless conversion

cgrutt

cgrutt

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So thinking about converting one of my pre-safe fixed mag MSRs to featureless. Main issue is removing a Battlecomp comp that has been pinned and welded and replacing with a cap. Question is how can I drill out (presumably hardened) pin without doing too much damage to the Battlecomp? Sold my large drill presses but still have access to a tabletop press. Will that work or should I find someone with a mill (@kev74 thinking of you lol)?

Second issue is pistol grip. Have a nice Vltor stock that has been epoxied (pre safe). Not sure if one of @Eddie Gunks pistol grip replacements would be best or go with a Thordson...

Nice Noveske build think would be better featureless than fixed...

Any help or suggestions much appreciated. Thx.
 
Marine Cpl

Marine Cpl

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My experience. The Thordsen gives you a full purchase. You can hold it one handed if need be when opening a door or carrying something else in your other hand. For bench rest the other options work but not so much for actual use.

Also, the guys that did the pinning for my muzzle cap recommended the Thordsen cap since it has more meat to work with.

www.thordsencustoms.com

Barrel Cap (plain) for 1/2-28..

SKU #5005
www.thordsencustoms.com www.thordsencustoms.com
 
cgrutt

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Don't recall if buffer tube was epoxied or not kills me having to toss the vltor... FUAC
 
kev74

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The pin likely isn't hardened. The weld its self could be hard, depending on the alloy involved and how fast it cooled. Unless the guy who welded it went nutty, the weld should be very shallow.

The small drill press should git 'er done. Make sure its secured well, and use a stubby drill that won't flex and come cutting oil. Even better would be a carbide endmill.

If you get jammed up (or chicken out :ROFL:), mask up and bring it over! I'm only 1/4 essential at work, so I've got a ton of time on my hands.
 
Jem45472

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kev74 said:
The pin likely isn't hardened. The weld its self could be hard, depending on the alloy involved and how fast it cooled. Unless the guy who welded it went nutty, the weld should be very shallow.

The small drill press should git 'er done. Make sure its secured well, and use a stubby drill that won't flex and come cutting oil. Even better would be a carbide endmill.

If you get jammed up (or chicken out :ROFL:), mask up and bring it over! I'm only 1/4 essential at work, so I've got a ton of time on my hands.
Click to expand...
Agree with this. Drill through the weld and pin should come out.
 
cgrutt

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Thanks was thinking the pin was a cut off drill bit but not sure. Believe process was Tig and weld is very small don't think guy who did it went nuts. Think I have a bunch of end mills have to check. Never thought about running them in a press lol...
 
Jem45472

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cgrutt said:
Thanks was thinking the pin was a cut off drill bit but not sure. Believe process was Tig and weld is very small don't think guy who did it went nuts. Think I have a bunch of end mills have to check. Never thought about running them in a press lol...
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I used also.
 
kev74

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Usually the shank of the drill bits aren't hardened. That's why they booger up if they spin in the chuck.

Endmills are nice for stuff like this because they won't walk like a drill bit might.
 
cgrutt

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kev74 said:
Usually the shank of the drill bits aren't hardened. That's why they booger up if they spin in the chuck.

Endmills are nice for stuff like this because they won't walk like a drill bit might.
Click to expand...


End mills look like a drill bit but are ground flat at the tip right? I think I have a bunch of them that I picked up along with some other stuff at some point. Have to check. Let me know if you can use any...
 
kev74

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cgrutt said:
End mills look like a drill bit but are ground flat at the tip right? I think I have a bunch of them that I picked up along with some other stuff at some point. Have to check. Let me know if you can use any...
Click to expand...
All different shapes and sizes, but these are a good representation.

iu
 
cgrutt

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kev74 said:
All different shapes and sizes, but these are a good representation.

iu
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's what I was thinking about. I know I had a bunch of those at one point but I gave a bunch of stuff away to a kid that was working at Renaissance Fair in the blacksmith shop a while back. Not sure if that was part of it or not. I may be thinking about reamers. I know I've got a few containers stored away just not sure what's in it, lol...
 
kev74

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cgrutt said:
Yeah, that's what I was thinking about. I know I had a bunch of those at one point but I gave a bunch of stuff away to a kid that was working at Renaissance Fair in the blacksmith shop a while back. Not sure if that was part of it or not. I may be thinking about reamers. I know I've got a few containers stored away just not sure what's in it, lol...
Click to expand...
If you want a hand getting the pin out, give me a shout. Tons of time on my hands and no motivation to work on what I should be doing. :drool:
 
Robin

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Just did a conversion C. I went with the Thordsen, it has a natural feel to it and like Will says, you can grip and hold with one hand. If the welded comp has a hump of weld proud of the piece itself, you might want to bring it down before drilling, some of those alloy's used are rock hard. Heck, once you get it down some you might try a Dremel with a small grind stone. Once you get past the weld the pin will fall out. Me, I just ground it down and didn't look back.
Robin
 
A

alistair

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I just bought one of these fake muzzle brakes for a threaded barrel I have. The brake comes predrilled so one of the hard jobs is done.
All I have to do is dimple the barrel, insert pin and then weld.
If you decide to buy one of these let me know as I want another and we can split shipping.
I am going to a local welding shop next week to see if they would do the spot weld for $10-20 cash.
 
cgrutt

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@alistair if you dont have any luck with welder lmk maybe we can meet one night in Rockland and get them both done.
 
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