How to set up dies

[Exonautic]

I know this is something simple that can be looked up a thousand times over on Google. I have already done so. I have the rcbs 308 win dies. Basic set. What are some things you guys can tell me about setting up reloading dies you think would be good to know or you wish you knew the first time. I finally have all my reloading gear and my bench will be officially finished tomorrow(hopefully).

 

[Deplorable Me]

RCBS has instructions at their website for every last piece of gear ever made. I read mine every time I set up to punch brass.

 

[Jmac00]

Patience is the key. sizing and primer punch is pretty simple to get in place. Getting the correct powder charge takes time and patience. same with bullet depth and crimp

 

[NY Leatherneck]

For die set up

When setting up bullet seating depth go slow with small adjustments measuring frequently until you reach your desired depth and tighten it good.

When sizing usually instructions say raise ram until brass holder just touches then back off and go another 1/4 turn. I find it usually needs more but don't go so much you compress your brass at the base.

 

[HighlandLofts]

Just follow the instructions and go slow, when you hit the mark make sure things are TIGHT.

I had four Pacfic single-stage presses I was going to set up so I could have all of the dies set up for each function.I bought the Hornady Lock & Load Classic Reloading Kit just for the free Sonic Cleaner that came with the kit. I had a $30 Cabelas store card and they had a hell of a sale on the kit with the free sonic cleaner so I could of sold just the kit, keep the sonic cleaner and could of made a few bucks.

My son talked me into keeping the Hornady Lock & Load and sell the other presses. Once the dies are set you just pop them in and go. No re-adjusting any thing. Just check you measurements when starting new batches, so far no adjustments needed on several batches of bullets made with the Lock & Load system.

I did keep one old pacfic press and had it drilled & tapped for the Lock & Load adapter that came with a set of collets I bought, so I have two Lock & Load presses. The throw depth is different so the new press is set up for Pistol cartridges and the Adapted press is set up for Rifle cartridges. I have two hand powder measurers one at each press, two sets of scales, every thing for two people to load at the same time, one rifle,one pistol.

The old Retrofitted Pacific Press with the Lock & Load Collet.

 

[Acer-m14]

have your rifle there .. set up resizing die as instructed in instructions .. .. take a casing and resize it , and try it in the rifle , you will have to
wiggle it a bit to get up in the chamber with no bullet in it .. close the bolt .. if you can't get the bolt closed , turn the die down a bit more and resize and try it again .. rinse n repete .. i had some rem brass for my 270 that had that issues .. needed to push the shoulder back a bit more ..

now you have brass that works in YOUR rifle .. if your sharing , need to test with friends rifle too ..

 

[Deplorable Me]

Were you using full length or neck sizing dies?

 

[Exonautic]

Were you using full length or neck sizing dies?

I have full length. I was considering also getting a neck sizing die. The rounds i will be loading will only be going in a single rifle so only neck sizing shouldnt be an issue right?

 

[Deplorable Me]

Neck sizing is supposed to be the best for a single rifle application. I have 3X .308 (plus my brother's rifle) and am content with full length results. I trim my brass to length and trim the neck of my brass (circumference). I also deburr the flashholes. Keep in mind this is for bolt rifles only.

Outside Case Neck Turning for Factory Rifles |

 

[Exonautic]

Cool i think ill stick with full sizing until i get the hang of it. Hopefully i got my saw back and can finish putting together the station tonight. And ill get all set up. Maybe this time next week i will have made some new reloads.

 

[Deplorable Me]

Precision reloading is a function of eliminating mathematical variables. Trim batches of brass to length, deburr the flashholes, use a good name brand bullet, weigh out your powder those are simple variables that can be easily eliminated. Watch your bullet seating length. Do those and you'll see better performance than stock factory ammo without breaking the bank. If you push 1" groups at 100 yards without stressing you're doing good. That translates to 5" on a deer at 500 yards (he won't know the difference).

When you're testing, start with a clean barrel but remember the first two shots don't count, you have to foul the barrel. Don't shoot too fast either. A barrel that warms up and gets hot will warp and shift the best precision ammo around the target.

The Hornady, Speer and Sierra reloading books have some great reading material on ballistics, worth the read. Get a Sinclair International catalog and read about all the anal retentive stuff you can do to tweak your ammo, then use it ass a coffee table coaster. 95% of the things you can do with a basic RCBS kit out of the box but just add the case length trimmer.

I've found Hornady, Speer and Sierra all to be good common affordable bullets. Winchester and Remington bullets are cheaper and tolerances run out but they're good for blasting, 100 yard shots and iron sights with bad eyes. Good for sighting in ammo with a new scope mount.

Know how to use a good set of calipers. Keep a good reloading log, make lots of notes.

Post pictures of your targets.

Relax and enjoy even if the results don't go where you want them. Improvements will come in time.

 

[Exonautic]

Precision reloading is a function of eliminating mathematical variables. Trim batches of brass to length, deburr the flashholes, use a good name brand bullet, weigh out your powder those are simple variables that can be easily eliminated. Watch your bullet seating length. Do those and you'll see better performance than stock factory ammo without breaking the bank. If you push 1" groups at 100 yards without stressing you're doing good. That translates to 5" on a deer at 500 yards (he won't know the difference).

When you're testing, start with a clean barrel but remember the first two shots don't count, you have to foul the barrel. Don't shoot too fast either. A barrel that warms up and gets hot will warp and shift the best precision ammo around the target.

The Hornady, Speer and Sierra reloading books have some great reading material on ballistics, worth the read. Get a Sinclair International catalog and read about all the anal retentive stuff you can do to tweak your ammo, then use it ass a coffee table coaster. 95% of the things you can do with a basic RCBS kit out of the box but just add the case length trimmer.

I've found Hornady, Speer and Sierra all to be good common affordable bullets. Winchester and Remington bullets are cheaper and tolerances run out but they're good for blasting, 100 yard shots and iron sights with bad eyes. Good for sighting in ammo with a new scope mount.

Know how to use a good set of calipers. Keep a good reloading log, make lots of notes.

Post pictures of your targets.

Relax and enjoy even if the results don't go where you want them. Improvements will come in time.

By what you've said i think I'm on a good track so far. I have the lee sierra and nosler books so far. Ive read through all of their introduction portions as well as thoroughly reviewed the section of the cartridges i plan to reload.
One more question is what do i do when one book has a higher max charge for the same components than another.

 

[Deplorable Me]

Either is good. Reloading max velocities are slightly less than factory OEM values. It defaults to the safe side. I generally load 80% max and find accuracy is better. Peak power for hunting. I do all target so peak power has never been needed. Brass life is better too.

Sierra book list optimum load values for loads.

 

[BDSKJCHRIS]

for full length dies it is simple, (i use a case gage to set up the dies), have your sinclair or le wilson case gage clean and dry, make sure the die is clean and you are not overlubing the case, install the die in the press so that when the ram is at it's highest point of travel it just touches the bottom of the die then back it out 1/2 to 1 full turn. take a clean, lightly lubed case, and run it through the die, wipe it off and check it using the gage, adjust the die 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn until your cartridge head is in the acceptable range for headspace and you are done, i prefer the hornady lock rings to ensure that everything stays put.

if you don't own a case gage, get one. they are cheaper than a new rifle and a trip to the hospital.