Lead bullets & ported barrels; S&W 586 L - Comp vs Magna Port??

[Deplorable Me]

A comment was made to me to NOT shoot leaded bullets through a ported S&W 586 L - Comp. I looked at the barrel and the muzzle break port is actually a larger diameter than the lands and grooves of the barrel. The bullet will not touch the actual port. I could see in a Magna-Port drilled on the barrel type porting this being an issue, direct contact with the port-bullets and lead would be shaved off. (All porting is not equal?) An interesting observation. Thoughts? Experience?

 

[Podmonkey]

I wouldn't think it would ve a problem for the L-Comp, as you correctly stat the portion of tge barrel forward of the comp is untitled and the port itself is likely to large to become significantly fouled to begin with. There aren't any warnings against it in the S&W manual.
You also have a 586 L-Comp? I'd like to offer more than an opinion but I can't since mine has been in S&W's fucking repair department since I got it 5 goddamn weeks ago.

 

[Deplorable Me]

I did read your thread and was shocked. Mine is newer also and I've had no problems. Only about 200 rounds through it. 100 .357 and 100 .38. I love the tuned trigger. I can index through all 7 chambers without firing a shot. Trigger pull is fabulous. 158 gr .357 are easy on the recoil. First target is @ 24' double action. Second target is 75' double action. Both about a 20 second string. At 75' that's a 24x24 cardboard.

 

[kev74]

I wouldn't hesitate to shoot lead bullets through it. Just clean the comp when it's dirty.

 

[Deplorable Me]

I swapped out the grips for full size Pachmeyer.

I never heard of the lead and ported barrel discussion so I was running full wad cutters. I saw the barrel clearance and thought my resources were not well informed.

 

[Podmonkey]

View attachment 243283 I swapped out the grips for full size Pachmeyer.

I never heard of the lead and ported barrel discussion so I was running full wad cutters. I saw the barrel clearance and thought my resources were not well informed.

Does your gun run .38s 100% without moon clips?

 

[Deplorable Me]

Does your gun run .38s 100% without moon clips?

I read your thread. I did not use any moon clips with the .38s. Didn't even try the moon clips.

 

[Podmonkey]

I read your thread. I did not use any moon clips with the .38s. Didn't even try the moon clips.

The customer service rep we originally talked to tried giving me some nonsense about 38s needing moon clips to work but 357s wouldn't need them. The idiocy of that statement left me with no confidence that S&W will get this right. How fucking stupid can one be?

That said if they do get this gun working properly I think I'll be putting on some full size VZ grips on. Black Cherry color. I do like your Pachmeyer grips though, look comfy and stable and have a very polite duty look to them which I like like.

 

[FP1201]

Well the deal with Lead bullets is the accumulation of lead spatter plugging up the ports, and in some cases making it very difficult to remove (if removable)...I used to have a S&W X-Frame in 500 S&W Magnum and it came with two different compensators: one for Jacketed and the other for Lead Bullets...Dan Wesson Revolvers have shrouds that slide over the Barrel, and shooting Lead bullets will gum it up making Shroud removal a bitch, and Gas operated guns run the risk of obliterating the gas port when using Lead Bullets...a few probably won't hurt, but a steady diet will make you sorry,

 

[Deplorable Me]

Well the deal with Lead bullets is the accumulation of lead spatter plugging up the ports, and in some cases making it very difficult to remove (if removable)...I used to have a S&W X-Frame in 500 S&W Magnum and it came with two different compensators: one for Jacketed and the other for Lead Bullets...Dan Wesson Revolvers have shrouds that slide over the Barrel, and shooting Lead bullets will gum it up making Shroud removal a bitch, and Gas operated guns run the risk of obliterating the gas port when using Lead Bullets...a few probably won't hurt, but a steady diet will make you sorry,

It's a single large port. You can put your pinky in it.

 

[Deplorable Me]

The customer service rep we originally talked to tried giving me some nonsense about 38s needing moon clips to work but 357s wouldn't need them. The idiocy of that statement left me with no confidence that S&W will get this right. How fucking stupid can one be?

That said if they do get this gun working properly I think I'll be putting on some full size VZ grips on. Black Cherry color. I do like your Pachmeyer grips though, look comfy and stable and have a very polite duty look to them which I like like.

The grips are super comfortable. Factory grips too small but sexy. I like your full size VZ idea.

 

[Podmonkey]

The grips are super comfortable. Factory grips too small but sexy. I like your full size VZ idea.

I dunno know now. Been looking at some laminate wood versions of what you have on your gun and I'll debate between the two while I wait on the L-Comp's return.

 

[fresch]

Dan Wesson Revolvers, if I had 2 pistol packs mine would shoot lead no problems.
The barrel is a tube threaded on both ends. One end screws through the frame with a 6/1000 or less (adjustable, is why they are so accurate) space between the barrel and cylinder, Then the shroud, then the lock/jam nut on the other end of the tube recessed into the shroud.
Leading at the "forcing cone" outside (the barrel threads do extend past the frame) could be the only place for build up; I have never seen or know of leading so bad removal of the barrel tube was difficult.
But I would clean my guns if I had any, occasionally.
Now build up between the revolving chambers and the 6/1000 gap with the barrel can start to lock up the action if the powder isn't getting burned fully, same type of gap on all revolvers, toothbrush fix.

If you get lead shaving in a revolver the timing is off, worn out parts.

 

[FP1201]

It's a single large port. You can put your pinky in it.

That shouldn't be a problem, but I'll bet you'll start to see lead deposits build up around that port...simply brush them out.

 

[Podmonkey]

I don't suppose these concerns would extend to semi jacketed ammo such as the Remington SJHP? I'd wager not since the bearing surface is on the copper jacket, but there is a lot of exposed lead nevertheless. At the moment the Remington SJHPs seem to be among the cheapest full house .357 Factory loads available, and they are still a solid option for defense besides.

 

[Brawny71]

My S+W 500 Mag came with two compensators. One for lead and one for jacketed. I'm not sure I've ever changed them out.

 

[Deplorable Me]

My S+W 500 Mag came with two compensators. One for lead and one for jacketed. I'm not sure I've ever changed them out.

This I find interesting.

 

[Deplorable Me]

I don't suppose these concerns would extend to semi jacketed ammo such as the Remington SJHP? I'd wager not since the bearing surface is on the copper jacket, but there is a lot of exposed lead nevertheless. At the moment the Remington SJHPs seem to be among the cheapest full house .357 Factory loads available, and they are still a solid option for defense besides.

If there's copper to steel there should be no problems, any compensator. In my non-compensated .357 w/.38's if I shoot 100 rounds I'll get minute slivers of lead when I deep clean, but not always. I think it's the normal nature of lead bullets. There could be minute bullet dimension differences that cause that odd sliver to shave off. It comes down to habits of good cleaning.

FYI I wet down my barrel and cylinder with Kroil, let it soak for a day. No rush when deep cleaning.

 

[repete]

Dan Wesson Revolvers, if I had 2 pistol packs mine would shoot lead no problems.
The barrel is a tube threaded on both ends. One end screws through the frame with a 6/1000 or less (adjustable, is why they are so accurate) space between the barrel and cylinder, Then the shroud, then the lock/jam nut on the other end of the tube recessed into the shroud.
Leading at the "forcing cone" outside (the barrel threads do extend past the frame) could be the only place for build up; I have never seen or know of leading so bad removal of the barrel tube was difficult.
But I would clean my guns if I had any, occasionally.
Now build up between the revolving chambers and the 6/1000 gap with the barrel can start to lock up the action if the powder isn't getting burned fully, same type of gap on all revolvers, toothbrush fix.

If you get lead shaving in a revolver the timing is off, worn out parts.

I have heard (no first hand info) that Dan Wesson that have had the barrel and shroud dilled will have leading problems and I believe that, always wondered how that would really effect recoil as the gas would fill the gap between the two.
In the past I've thought about making a screw on comp for one of my Dan's that would replace the barrel nut. I'heve problems with my right wrist, that project just might be back on the board for this winter!

 

[dsdmmat]

Shot lead bullets through my comped 38 super and 45, had to scrape the lead out every few matches, not a big deal. Made a scraper out of a screwdriver

Never had a problem taking my Dan Wesson apart after shooting lead bullets through it for all of its life.

not supposed to shoot lead bullets through a suppressor though of course taking some of those apart for cleaning is a little more complicated than a typical auto loader or revolver.

 

[FP1201]

Dan Wesson Revolvers, if I had 2 pistol packs mine would shoot lead no problems.
The barrel is a tube threaded on both ends. One end screws through the frame with a 6/1000 or less (adjustable, is why they are so accurate) space between the barrel and cylinder, Then the shroud, then the lock/jam nut on the other end of the tube recessed into the shroud.
Leading at the "forcing cone" outside (the barrel threads do extend past the frame) could be the only place for build up; I have never seen or know of leading so bad removal of the barrel tube was difficult.
But I would clean my guns if I had any, occasionally.
Now build up between the revolving chambers and the 6/1000 gap with the barrel can start to lock up the action if the powder isn't getting burned fully, same type of gap on all revolvers, toothbrush fix.

If you get lead shaving in a revolver the timing is off, worn out parts.

My SuperMags have 1/16"? in ports the circumference of the barrel about a 1/2" back from the muzzle nut threads and the Shroud has elliptical ports at approximately 10:00 and 2:00...DW in the owners manual specifically discouraged the use of Cast Bullets in these as they WILL foul inside the shroud making it very difficult to remove...I also have a DW in .45LC and another in .44 Mag. and neither are ported...FWIW There is a Company that makes a replacement Tool that also offers (offered) a Comp that would screw on in place of the nut at the muzzle...looked interesting.