tpmcman
22lr
Looking for suggestions on reliable 9mm wheel gun to be used as EDC by female.
Good thinking. Maybe I should get one. Damn you.Probably to keep ammo selection simple.
I want a 9mm wheel gun myself, mostly just because, but also because I have a plethora of 9mm already. Allows for more range time too.
Ruger is generous that they give 3x moon clips too. Damn it... quit making want to buy another gun. LOLI own a Ruger LCR in 9mm and love it, it's my ankle gun.
Main reason I got a 9mm wheel gun was if I ever needed my backup due to a primary gun failure, I could reload off the primary's mags. Also because it's one less caliber I don't have to keep stock on and reload.
Add to that, 9mm will generally be more powerful than .38 Spl +P.Why a revolver? And if you are set on a revolver, why not a 38?
9mm is so much more powerful, it'll blow a lung right clean out!Add to that, 9mm will generally be more powerful than .38 Spl +P.
I hear the "only 1 caliber to buy" mindset, and I see the merits of bulk purchase.I own a Ruger LCR in 9mm and love it, it's my ankle gun.
Main reason I got a 9mm wheel gun was if I ever needed my backup due to a primary gun failure, I could reload off the primary's mags. Also because it's one less caliber I don't have to keep stock on and reload.
I already have too many handgun calibers.I hear the "only 1 caliber to buy" mindset, and I see the merits of bulk purchase.
I, however, adopt the mindset of "if there is a panic and all the hottest calibers are gone, diversifying has benefits." If one caliber is out, you have another to fall back on.
I'm sorry, I don't understand.I already have too many handgun calibers.
It's actually the opposite, it's the wear and tear that is what makes springs weaker.I've been thinking revolver too, for the bedroom nightstand. Two advantages as I see it.... as uncomplicated as it gets, plus it can be left loaded and not have to worry about a spring in the clip of a semi auto being collapsed from being left loaded up for too long.
Which brings up a question, how long is too long to leave a clip full of ammo before possible ill affects on the spring? Friend of mine says a clip can be left full up for years, but that just doesn't seem right to me.
I've been thinking revolver too, for the bedroom nightstand. Two advantages as I see it.... as uncomplicated as it gets, plus it can be left loaded and not have to worry about a spring in the clip of a semi auto being collapsed from being left loaded up for too long.
Which brings up a question, how long is too long to leave a clip full of ammo before possible ill affects on the spring? Friend of mine says a clip can be left full up for years, but that just doesn't seem right to me.
There is a big asterisk on this.It's actually the opposite, it's the wear and tear that is what makes springs weaker.
You should have a dedicated known-working magazine or two if you are going to rely on it.
All other magazines should be for practice/playtime.
has had a few surguries so the action of racking the slide is challanging even with a glock in 22. So we were thinking wheel gun, and I was thinking 9mm as it would be nice to standardize on ammo. but if a 38 has same recoil impulse as 9mm I guess that would suffice. Neither of us have handled a 38 so I think we will give it a try. thanks for the advice.Why a revolver? And if you are set on a revolver, why not a 38?
Yes thats why we were thinking of 9mm to standardize on ammoProbably to keep ammo selection simple.
I want a 9mm wheel gun myself, mostly just because, but also because I have a plethora of 9mm already. Allows for more range time too.
Well that is a good idea. Since were from NY and I guess that would be called a NY reload. LOLI own a Ruger LCR in 9mm and love it, it's my ankle gun.
Main reason I got a 9mm wheel gun was if I ever needed my backup due to a primary gun failure, I could reload off the primary's mags. Also because it's one less caliber I don't have to keep stock on and reload.
The way to prevent spring lag is to tame them to the range and empty them a few times each. That keeps em working betterI've been thinking revolver too, for the bedroom nightstand. Two advantages as I see it.... as uncomplicated as it gets, plus it can be left loaded and not have to worry about a spring in the clip of a semi auto being collapsed from being left loaded up for too long.
Which brings up a question, how long is too long to leave a clip full of ammo before possible ill affects on the spring? Friend of mine says a clip can be left full up for years, but that just doesn't seem right to me.
Wow alot of knowledge packed into a small package. Thank you for sharing. I will do some research into this into the 905. My wife has small hands so this actually may be a good choice.In regards to the OP's original question. Quite a few years ago I decided I wanted a 9mm Revolver. I found that the two major players were simply adapting their .357 revolvers to fire 9mm. This is evidenced in the models that came with interchangeable cylinders for .357 and 9mm. At the time I wanted a dedicated 9mm revolver with what I considered proper twist rate and also would headspace on the case mouth. I was seriously considering converting a Dan Wesson to 9mm because the folks in Norwich actually had 9mm cylinders for the D/W and because the barrel is so easily exchanged I would be able to get a barrel in the twist rate I desired. Well, a D/W collector in FL bought every 9mm cylinder that D/W - CZ had. These cylinders are actually machined for 9mm and headspace on the case mouth.
After some investigation ( Been a while and this is all by my aging recollection ) I discovered that the Taurus model 905 is not a conversion from a .357. Cylinders are bored specifically for 9mm and headspace on the case mouth. In fact you can use the 905 without moon clips and though you cannot use the extractor the cases remove individually without difficulty. Additionally, the rate of twist is 1:10. Same as most if not all of your European 9mm semi autos. i.e. my Walter P99 is 1:10 twist rate. And, I prefer 147gr projectiles.
I purchased a 905 and it has never failed to fire. I have never had any ejection problems and Honestly it proved to be more accurate than I expected. It is an all steel revolver so it is not a super light weigh. However that mass seems to me at least, make the recoil for what is essentially a j frame rather tame for 9mm in such a small revolver. My only complaint is that my very wide hands do not grab as much of the grip as I would like. Even the aftermarket Hogue grip falls a bit short for me. Additionally the moon clips supplied ( Taurus calls them "stellar clips" ) are pretty flimsy. A set of 5 "TK" Custom moon clips made purposefully for the Taurus solved that issue.
Many will look down their nose at Taurus and honestly I probably lean that way when it comes to a semi automatic. I think in regards to revolvers that Taurus was actually in bed with S&W at one time. The 905 looks as though it has some S&W heritage in it if not an exact copy.
If a 9mm revolver is what you want I would at least have a look at the Taurus 905.
Good luck with the search.
It's actually the opposite, it's the wear and tear that is what makes springs weaker.
You should have a dedicated known-working magazine or two if you are going to rely on it.
All other magazines should be for practice/playtime.
This is how it's been explained to me....
Think of springs as having a lifecycle count limit. Every time the spring is compressed (loaded) and then used,/ released (unloaded) that is a lifecycle.
Maybe springs reliably have hypothetically for argument sake 500 lifecycles of being compressed and released reliably before need to be replaced.
If a spring stays loaded and compressed that's not hurting it.
I was gonna say, not only are Hodgdon test barrels much longer for revolver cartridges, judging by the differences I get in velocity, I don't believe that their test barrels are vented to simulated a cylinder gap. My velocities from my S&W 642 1⅞" barrel are (expectedly) so far off from Hodgdon figures as to make them worthless as a reference. Even with a .44 Magnum, my velocities with a 7.5" SBH barrel are still waaaay off from their results with a listed 8¼". Meanwhile, by comparison, my results for .40S&W out of a Glock 23 track very well with Hodgdon's listed velocities.View attachment 196954
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In some instances 9mm and 38 special can be comparable. However, the 9mm data (top 2) is out of a 4 inch barrel. The 38 special (bottom 2) is out of a 7.7 inch barrel. If a bad wrist/hands is the main consideration you could even go with 38 short colt. I've shot them out of a j frame once and they are super pleasant. It's like a pop gun and no recoil. You'll probably have to reload for it though as it's not exactly a super popular caliber. Respectable though.
Yep. All the data is a loose guideline really. For me it's just to get an idea of what a safe powder charge range is. That's the only thing you can't just guess out of thin air. I mean you can based off of past experience and familiarity with powders and calibers but you'd be taking a risk. You'll never have true data until you load and chrono everything yourself out of your own guns and components.I was gonna say, not only are Hodgdon test barrels much longer for revolver cartridges, judging by the differences I get in velocity, I don't believe that their test barrels are vented to simulated a cylinder gap. My velocities from my S&W 642 1⅞" barrel are (expectedly) so far off from Hodgdon figures as to make them worthless as a reference. Even with a .44 Magnum, my velocities with a 7.5" SBH barrel are still waaaay off from their results with a listed 8¼". Meanwhile, by comparison, my results for .40S&W out of a Glock 23 track very well with Hodgdon's listed velocities.
Hornady's manuals give more real-world velocities. Their fastest two .38 Spl +P loads only clock in at 1050 fps out of a S&W 15 with a 4" barrel, and you can expect to lose at least 50 fps with a 2" barrel.
Agreed to all of that, especially the +P part. I bought a few boxes of Buffalo Bore 158gr SWC +P for my S&W 642. It was the second most painful thing I've ever shot. The only thing worse was the S&W 360, their J-frame .357 Mag. After a couple of cylinders they both feel like you just let someone swing a golf club into your palm.Yep. All the data is a loose guideline really. For me it's just to get an idea of what a safe powder charge range is. That's the only thing you can't just guess out of thin air. I mean you can based off of past experience and familiarity with powders and calibers but you'd be taking a risk. You'll never have true data until you load and chrono everything yourself out of your own guns and components.
P.S. 38 special + P are NOT pleasant to shoot out of a J Frame.
That comment on recoil isn't necessarily to dissuade you. The S&W 642 and 360 are both alloy-frame revolvers that weigh around 14.5oz empty. The Buffalo Bore load I mentioned is probably the hottest factory-loaded .38 Special made. Most other +P loads might wear you out faster than normal, but don't hurt like that. Too many rounds of it wouldn't just help you develop a flinch, but would also shake the revolver loose sooner than later.Looking for suggestions on reliable 9mm wheel gun to be used as EDC by female.
All great info thanks for the feedback.That comment on recoil isn't necessarily to dissuade you. The S&W 642 and 360 are both alloy-frame revolvers that weigh around 14.5oz empty. The Buffalo Bore load I mentioned is probably the hottest factory-loaded .38 Special made. Most other +P loads might wear you out faster than normal, but don't hurt like that. Too many rounds of it wouldn't just help you develop a flinch, but would also shake the revolver loose sooner than later.
Standard pressure .38 Spl doesn't hurt at all. Target wadcutter ammo, you could shoot all day. The 9mm Taurus you're considering is nice because it weighs over 20oz, which will help mitigate recoil better than lighter revolvers.
Also something worth nothing that no one else has mentioned, these little revolvers take a lot more work to get proficient with than a semi-auto. They have longer, heavier triggers than striker-fired guns. They have a shorter sight radius than a comparably sized semi-auto. They usually have poor sights. Since they don't have a reciprocating slide to spread out the recoil impulse, the perceived recoil is snappier than an autoloader of the identical weight with the same ammo. Reloading is slower. The point is, if your wife will be carrying this thing, she really ought to practice with it and probably even take lessons. Snubbie revolvers are among the simplest firearms to operate, but in terms marksmanship, these guns are the very hardest to get proficient with.