Looking to reload what do I need?
- Thread starter That_FNG
- Start date
That_FNG
.308 Win
Got ya. I just ordered the rcbs die set, a basic rcbs stainless steel caliper (non digital) and some case lube from palmetto state. So I just need the brass primed or not primed, the bullets and the powder and then I’m ready to start correct?
Lube is only used for sizing, you won't need it with sized/primed brass. You should be all set. As you start reloading you will buy more tools as needed when needed. Kind of crossing the bridge when you come to it.
That_FNG
.308 Win
Sweet. Well I will have the lube for when I start to prime my own brass then, buy it or buy it later all the same. Just ordered the primed .223 brass from mid south along with the Lyman guide. Once it arrives I will then buy the billets and powder I need.
That_FNG
.308 Win
In regards to bullets, if I have a .223 Wylde, can I shoot any 22 type bullet out of it? Or would be any recommendations? My max target range is 100 yards so I’m definitely not doing long distance
tony
6.5 Creedmoor
When reloading for semi-auto's many people prefer small base dies as they resize more of the case than FL sizing dies do. I suppose it is a reliability issue. If you end up with range brass this could be something to think about. I do like Wilson cartridge gages for a good quick check. The "plunk" test in the chamber is good too... Be aware that removing the crimped primers in military brass has broken many a decapping pin, nice to have some on hand. I don't really know what is available now but I have a steel block with a c'bore sized for the case head and a rod turned to a small diameter and small hammer for decapping military brass. Don't forget swaging the pocket.
A very important thing to have is quiet, distraction free time. When you are loading ammunition that develops pressures in the 50-55,000 PSI range doing it right the first time is paramount. Load when you can sit and do it for an extended period of uninterrupted time.
Try to use powders that fill a good portion of the case. (Loading density) This will help avoid over or double charges and is easily visible to the eye.
A very important thing to have is quiet, distraction free time. When you are loading ammunition that develops pressures in the 50-55,000 PSI range doing it right the first time is paramount. Load when you can sit and do it for an extended period of uninterrupted time.
Try to use powders that fill a good portion of the case. (Loading density) This will help avoid over or double charges and is easily visible to the eye.
Barrel twist rate will determine what kind of bullets you can stabilize in that barrel. Wylde chamber is very popular.
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Acer-m14
20×102mm Vulcan
Ammo gauges from Wilson or similar are very nice, but not absolutely necessary. You drop in your reloaded round or rounds to make sure it all sized and trimmed correctly. Caliper definitely a must have.
I have no case gauges .. i load to my guns .. i still need a mechanical caliper for a back up .. fkin batteries
yep if your reloading for YOUR gun .. go thru the process .. drop a case you resized into your gun .. fits . no binding .. all to specs ur getting there ..
case lube .. boobies lube and Alcohol .. make your own ..
Lanolin and heet dry gas
Acer-m14
20×102mm Vulcan
ohhh get a digital scale for powder ... old school is nice if you have the temperament ..
The Lee manual has a pretty good front half with a LOT of tips for the starting reloader. I don't agree with everything they suggest, but it's a good start. It also has a massive number of different load data in the back half.
One other thing to look for is one of these: https://www.amazon.com/reloading-trays/s?page=1&rh=i:aps,k:reloading trays
One other thing to look for is one of these: https://www.amazon.com/reloading-trays/s?page=1&rh=i:aps,k:reloading trays
I also size brass to the chamber of my guns, but I do it the right way, with micrometer headspace gauges that measure fired cases, then I subtract 0.002" and size to that. The method you describe doesn't prevent overworking brass by sizing too much.
That said, for a beginner like OP, there is no need to complicate things. Gauges like Wilson will keep it simple. The simpler the process the easier it is to get into.
Batteries die on you, what's even worse they leak acid that damages the equipment or requires time consuming clean up. Mechanical scale like OP's work well and are usable. I have RCBS 505 as a secondary scale. Like you for speed and simplicity I prefer electronic powder dispenser. My RCBS Chargemaster doesn't have batteries. I run it with AC adapter that came with it.
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IMO you should resize the new brass so you would need the case lube. Many people do not, but I found that every piece of new brass feels different going through the sizing die.
Also, if you are trying to save money by reloading new brass may not help. You might find that the first round you reload from new brass will cost twice as much as a factory round. For every caliber I ave loaded I bought loaded ammo to get the brass. Just be carful because a lot of factory ammo in the rifle calibers you are loading have crimped primers that require some equipment to process the first time.
Also make sure your die set comes with a shell holder if not you will need one you each caliber you load.
Also, if you are trying to save money by reloading new brass may not help. You might find that the first round you reload from new brass will cost twice as much as a factory round. For every caliber I ave loaded I bought loaded ammo to get the brass. Just be carful because a lot of factory ammo in the rifle calibers you are loading have crimped primers that require some equipment to process the first time.
Also make sure your die set comes with a shell holder if not you will need one you each caliber you load.
That_FNG
.308 Win
What benefit is having a shell tray? Pardon my ignorance
That_FNG
.308 Win
The first batch of ammo I load will be new brass. After that I will be reloading used brass. Right now I don’t have any spent .223 /5.56 laying around.
That_FNG
.308 Win
Ahhh got ya
That_FNG
.308 Win
So my barrel is a .223 wylde 18” with a 1-8 button twist. Recommendations on bullets?
That twist rate would be best with heavier bullets. 68 to 77 grain by the charts. Depending on the type of shooting you do it may not matter much. If you shoot 50 yards offhand it may not matter but 100 yards off the bench it will.
