Need opinion from revolver guys on cylinder slop

[ArmedCorgi]

As the title suggests. My single action revolver has always seemed to have some slop in the cylinder. It's not forward/backward slop, but rather side to side I think. If I move the handgun side to side in an arc, you can hear and feel the cylinder shift and when I cock the hammer, the lock up seems inconsistent. By that I mean, it isn't terrible, but some chambers lock tighter than others. I've already tried using shims on the cylinder. I've replaced the bolt and bolt/trigger spring....These helped some, but the slop is still there. I'm now wondering if I should replace the cylinder? The part is available and not too expensive. Is it possible the gun came with a not so well machined cylinder?

 

[thegatman]

What kind of revolver is it? Colt SAA?

 

[ArmedCorgi]

What kind of revolver is it? Colt SAA?

Uberti Cattleman SAA

 

[Deplorable Me]

I'm not a revolver expert but asked this question of a S&W model 66. The answer was that the cylinder would be shimned. With the shim on the hammer end of the cylinder. There's probably a manufacturers spec on the cylinder gap measurable with a feeler gauge.

 

[Deplorable Me]

shim, bearing same thing in concept.

 

[ArmedCorgi]

I'm not a revolver expert but asked this question of a S&W model 66. The answer was that the cylinder would be shimned. With the shim on the hammer end of the cylinder. There's probably a manufacturers spec on the cylinder gap measurable with a feeler gauge.

It isn't forward/backward movement though. The cylinder is solid that way. It seems it's side to side. If you hold the revolver by the grip in your hand and twist your wrist back and forth like you are checking your watch, you can often feel and hear the cylinder shift. None of my other revolvers do this. I'm wondering if some of the bolt notches are maybe more shallow than others, so the bolt isn't locking as well in all chambers. on the other hand, I did just take the cylinder out and put the base pin back in to see if the base pin had any play in it and it does. I wonder if that could be the issue?

 

[thegatman]

Go to the Colt Forum. There are guys there that rebuild SAA's

 

[kev74]

Is the cylinder loose on the central pin and wiggling around? Or does the cylinder rotate when its supposed to be locked up?

 

[ArmedCorgi]

Is the cylinder loose on the central pin and wiggling around? Or does the cylinder rotate when its supposed to be locked up?

It locks up but there is play in it (which I know some is okay). It's not terrible, but more so than my other revolvers (I have replaced the bolt and bolt/trigger spring). As I cycle the action and try to manipulate the cylinder, it will feel either like is has play or it will feel tighter, both with the hammer cocked (when it should be really locked up) and with the hammer down.
The thing that I don't like most, is how when I move the revolver around, handling it and flipping it to look at each side, you can feel and hear the cylinder clunk to one side or the other. None of my other revolvers do this.
The base pin mates up with the cylinder fine. It's a nice fit into the cylinder bushing. But as I said above, when I removed the cylinder and just put the base pin back in, the pin had some play in it where it fits into the hammer end of the frame.... I'm wondering if that might be where my issue is coming from? I may get a new base pin and see.

 

[Acer-m14]

Turnbull Restoration Company, Inc.

Firearm Restoration & Manufacturing. Antique restoration and bluing services. Featuring Colt 1911 and 1886 Winchester manufactured reproductions .

www.turnbullrestoration.com

 

[Xae289]

Did you do any fitting when you replaced the bolt? Does the bolt look like it's engaging the notches on the cylinder consistently, or a little lopsided? If a new base pin doesn't fix it, I'd say it's a job for a gunsmith who knows revolvers.

 

[kev74]

If the pin is loose, that’s not good. Maybe call Uberti and see if they can tell you the dimensions of the pin and the hole. I don’t know how you could fix an over size hole in the frame without rebuilding the whole gun (Cost prohibitive!).

If the bolt is loose in the cylinder notches, the fix is usually an oversized bolt.

 

[S&W Fan]

From what I’ve read on line Uberti’s customer service pretty much sucks. If you can’t figure it out you would be better served bring it to a smith that knows something about SAA revolvers.

 

[218bee]

Kev74 is onto something. Sounds like the cylinder notches were either machined incorrectly or have worn. It’s not so much the depth of the notches, it’s the edges must remain sharp. If they’re rounded off it’s a problem. I believe in the 1990s, Smith and Wesson offered an enhanced package on the 44 magnum‘s. One of the improvements was enlarged cylinder notches. I would check them.

 

[ArmedCorgi]

Kev74 is onto something. Sounds like the cylinder notches were either machined incorrectly or have worn. It’s not so much the depth of the notches, it’s the edges must remain sharp. If they’re rounded off it’s a problem. I believe in the 1990s, Smith and Wesson offered an enhanced package on the 44 magnum‘s. One of the improvements was enlarged cylinder notches. I would check them.

I'll have to look at them closer.

 

[ArmedCorgi]

I went ahead and ordered a new base pin and cylinder. At the least, they'll be spare parts, which are always good to have.

 

[Acer-m14]

just had this pop up in my random utube feed ..

does that revolve have a cylinder stop ?

 

[ArmedCorgi]

So just an update... New cylinder and base pin arrived from Taylor's today. I guess the cylinder isn't a direct drop in. I needed to do some fitting as the new cylinder would not go into place. I tried pulling the bushing out and swapping it with the original cylinder bushing, but no go. I had to file a small amount off the spurs that the hand engages and use the old bushing. Oddly enough, the bushing that came with the new cylinder would not work with either the new or old cylinder. The base pins don't seem to make a difference. I am happy to report though, that the new cylinder seems to be the fix! The lock up is much tighter and there is no more clunking feel or sound. so far as I can tell, the timing is good all the chambers line up with the barrel.