SmallGameAddict
.308 Win
Scope Mounting: Anyone choosing to mount a scope on their 7600 needs to be prepared for the possibility of having to shim the rear of their scope mounting base, a more common problem than you would think. Many of these rifles have excessive barrel down angle, in relation to the receiver, similar to a break barrel air gun. This is due to the method by which the barrel/bolt assembly is attached to the receiver, with a hole drilled in the barrel recoil lug which slides onto a stud (Barrel Extension Bolt), and then the 'Action Tube Assembly" is screwed onto the stud, clamping the recoil lug between the receiver and the 'Action Tube Assembly", versus screwing the barrel into the receiver like most bolt-action rifles. Manufacturing tolerances add up.
Tip: Take the time to degrease the base screws and receiver screw holes, and apply BLUE thread locker to base screws (pumping this rifle causes a lot of vibration to the metal parts), and torque the screws accurately and evenly to a final torque of around 25 in lbs. Give the thread locker 24 hours to set before using the rifle.
There are a number of choices for bases and rings for this rifle. I chose the Leupold STD base (I like the windage adjustable feature for this rifle, and SOLID steel) and STD low rings for mounting the scope of my choice, which was the Leupold VX-2 1-4x20 (great woods scope). After mounting everything, I set up to bore sight. Imagine my surprise when I discovered I had to use 27" of 'Up" adjustment to bore sight this rifle (I had made sure my scope was optically centered, and this particular scope has 125 MOA of total windage and elevation adjustment). I later confirmed this at the range, ended up using a total of 30" up adjustment for a 150 yard zero with 165 gr ammo. After checking the scope, base and rings for the obvious, I called Leupold Tech and explained the problem. I was sent a pair of shims (free of charge), with instructions to use both stacked one on top of the other. Note: For those interested, the formula is .001" of shim thickness for each MOA of adjustment needed (in my case, under the REAR of my scope base, to angle the scope and thus the reticle downward to better coincide with my rifle's low point of impact). Bingo- boresighted again and used 5" of Down adjustment, which leaves me all of my Up adjustment and then some (from optical center) for sighting in (you Long Range shooters out there using 20 MOA scope bases know the drill). In addition, you have to be looking for them to see that the rear base is shimmed. Happy happy happy.
Tip: For those wishing to remove the factory-supplied open sights for a 'clean barrel' look, you need to use model 700 receiver plug screws to fill the sight screw holes in the barrel for a neat, professional looking appearance, as the 7600 receiver plug screws will not fit. The sight screws are fairly soft and can be quite tight, and the screw heads have a shallow groove which is tough for a screwdriver to bite into. Best to use a snug fitting hollow ground tip that fits the screw head, with an impact screwdriver and a light tap or two with a small hammer to get them started loosening usually does the trick without marring the screw.
Thanks for reading.
Tip: Take the time to degrease the base screws and receiver screw holes, and apply BLUE thread locker to base screws (pumping this rifle causes a lot of vibration to the metal parts), and torque the screws accurately and evenly to a final torque of around 25 in lbs. Give the thread locker 24 hours to set before using the rifle.
There are a number of choices for bases and rings for this rifle. I chose the Leupold STD base (I like the windage adjustable feature for this rifle, and SOLID steel) and STD low rings for mounting the scope of my choice, which was the Leupold VX-2 1-4x20 (great woods scope). After mounting everything, I set up to bore sight. Imagine my surprise when I discovered I had to use 27" of 'Up" adjustment to bore sight this rifle (I had made sure my scope was optically centered, and this particular scope has 125 MOA of total windage and elevation adjustment). I later confirmed this at the range, ended up using a total of 30" up adjustment for a 150 yard zero with 165 gr ammo. After checking the scope, base and rings for the obvious, I called Leupold Tech and explained the problem. I was sent a pair of shims (free of charge), with instructions to use both stacked one on top of the other. Note: For those interested, the formula is .001" of shim thickness for each MOA of adjustment needed (in my case, under the REAR of my scope base, to angle the scope and thus the reticle downward to better coincide with my rifle's low point of impact). Bingo- boresighted again and used 5" of Down adjustment, which leaves me all of my Up adjustment and then some (from optical center) for sighting in (you Long Range shooters out there using 20 MOA scope bases know the drill). In addition, you have to be looking for them to see that the rear base is shimmed. Happy happy happy.
Tip: For those wishing to remove the factory-supplied open sights for a 'clean barrel' look, you need to use model 700 receiver plug screws to fill the sight screw holes in the barrel for a neat, professional looking appearance, as the 7600 receiver plug screws will not fit. The sight screws are fairly soft and can be quite tight, and the screw heads have a shallow groove which is tough for a screwdriver to bite into. Best to use a snug fitting hollow ground tip that fits the screw head, with an impact screwdriver and a light tap or two with a small hammer to get them started loosening usually does the trick without marring the screw.
Thanks for reading.