Removing a stuck case with a grease gun

[Acer-m14]

This should only be done in the kitchen with the chamber pointing at the china cabinet ...
This will make a mess in your shop ..

 

[twisted]

Should have done away with the zirk fitting, and just tapped the adapter for 1/8" pipe and screwed directly to grease gun, would have avoided most of his leak issues.

 

[Deplorable Me]

If I apply 10,000 psi to the inside of the brass it would fit tighter to the walls and make it more difficult to remove. If you have rust, a rough or dirty chamber, you're pressing the brass into the chamber wall. Brass expands under pressure in the chamber when you fire a round. I'm thinking 10,000 psi from a grease gun is counter productive. Some bolt gun chambers have a pressure relief hole, I do not believe this is the case with gas guns. If the brass ruptures, gas vents away from the operator hoping the bolt doesn't blow out in his face. You may get your eyebrows singed, beats a bolt into the skull.

1) Stuck live round. Remove bolt. Use aluminum cleaning rod smaller than diameter of bore. Remove brush, jag etc. Insert in bore so female threads go over bullet nose. Gently tap. You may sacrifice a rod section at the cost of saving a rifle. (BTDT; SKS 7.62x39)

2) Stuck case with blown head, they make a stuck case remover for 5.56 and 7.62 rounds. Typical case-head separation.

3) Stuck case WITH HEAD #1. Use method one above or get a brass or aluminum rod that fits into the neck of the case. (BTDT 30.06 bolt)). The bore did NOT get screwed up. Works good on bolt guns too.

4) Stuck case WITH HEAD #2. Drill out primer only. Use an "EASY-OUT". Leave the primer pocket wall intact.

DO NOT OIL BEFORE HAND! Sometimes oil will bind up the brass-steel. Oil only a last resort, crusty chamber/rust/fouling after you've tried the above, then use KROIL and let it sit a day.

 

[repete]

Would've been easier to make an adapter for a porta power.