Revolver timing issue

[ArmedCorgi]

So, I recently bought a Uberti 1873 Cattleman imported from Taylor's & Co.. Uberti has in recent years quietly made all "Cattleman" with their new floating firing pin safety. The result of this is a pin that makes noise when the gun is moved around and the loss of the four distinct clicks when pulling the hammer back. I know some will say it's a petty thing to be obsessive about, but I really want the four clicks. The way to get them is to source the parts from the pre-safety cattleman. They are still available though some parts are back ordered because a lot of Uberti owners feel the same way I do and want to convert the handgun back to pre-safety configuration.

I have sourced most of the hard to get parts (hammer, trigger). I thought the old style hammer and trigger would be all I needed to get and with some "fitting" would do the trick....Well, I have my four clicks only now the hammer (with cylinder in) won't stay cocked back after the last click. My thoughts on what is going on is that the hand, specifically the lower pawl, needs to filed down because it is locking the cylinder up before the trigger sear can lock in place. I'm thinking this because without the cylinder in, the hammer will lock back after the forth click. The hand is part of the timing system, so being that the hand is now on a different hammer, this must be my issue. I'd also add that the lock up in the cylinder with the hammer all the way back is super tight and ideal. I just don't know if this is due to the hand being too long and putting pressure on the cylinder or not.
I'm figuring to order a new hand and try to file that one down to see if that corrects the issue. I don't want to risk filing the hand that I know works with the original hammer.

Looking for input from anyone who may be familiar with timing issues and revolvers.

 

[Darth]

That's not a petty thing! You bought that replica obviously because you wanted to replicate the real thing. Changing the entire firing mechanism is a pretty big deal!

 

[Shoots100]

You should measure the hand's orientation and the amount it sticks out of the frame with the new parts in it, and compare it to the measurements of the hand with the original parts in it.

 

[ArmedCorgi]

You should measure the hand's orientation and the amount it sticks out of the frame with the new parts in it, and compare it to the measurements of the hand with the original parts in it.

Sounds like I need to pick up a set of calipers.

 

[wizrd]

You're in over your head - best to take it to a reliable pistolsmith now. A friend completely 'tore down' a double action revolver some years ago, for a detailed cleaning, he experienced the type of trouble you're now having, - he DID finally get things right, - his estimate of time invloved - about 800 hours over two years, - he was a proud & stubborn guy.

 

[Shoots100]

You're in over your head - best to take it to a reliable pistolsmith now. A friend completely 'tore down' a double action revolver some years ago, for a detailed cleaning, he experienced the type of trouble you're now having, - he DID finally get things right, - his estimate of time invloved - about 800 hours over two years, - he was a proud & stubborn guy.

800 hours !!! That's not proud or stubborn, that's freaking crazy.
Luckily, AC can install the factory parts to use his pistola.

 

[ArmedCorgi]

You're in over your head - best to take it to a reliable pistolsmith now. A friend completely 'tore down' a double action revolver some years ago, for a detailed cleaning, he experienced the type of trouble you're now having, - he DID finally get things right, - his estimate of time invloved - about 800 hours over two years, - he was a proud & stubborn guy.

You are probably right. Though single actions are less involved, they are still complex to work on. I do have the original parts to put it back to factory configuration so I can have a safe and functioning gun while I do my research and work at it when I feel motivated to. Getting the parts is also not a bad thing. Worst case, I'll have to find a smith near me that I can talk to or have do the work. They seem pretty few and far between, at least one's that handle single actions. I'm not sure I want to send it out of state, wait months and months and pay $$$ for this.

 

[wizrd]

In a double action revolver, there are parts that can be oriented several different ways, any one of them, put in 'differently' than the original assembly can screw up the timing. "the S&W Revolver - A Shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen is a necessity if you're tearing these down regularly, - and there are warnings in the book - "Don't go beyond this disassembly point if you don't know exactly what you are doing." Easy to get stumped with some of this stuff...just saying. Good Luck.

 

[ArmedCorgi]

In a double action revolver, there are parts that can be oriented several different ways, any one of them, put in 'differently' than the original assembly can screw up the timing. "the S&W Revolver - A Shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen is a necessity if you're tearing these down regularly, - and there are warnings in the book - "Don't go beyond this disassembly point if you don't know exactly what you are doing." Easy to get stumped with some of this stuff...just saying. Good Luck.

I am talking about a single action revolver though, not a double action if that makes any difference. I know what you mean about getting stumped and screwing up assemblies. I'm not rushing this or attempting anything I don't feel confident trying. We'll see.

 

[zzrguy]

OK you have timing Issue with you revolver.
Ok just wait till the wife/girlfriend goes out or to bed then bring the revolver in the house. Timing issue fixed

 

[Shoots100]

There are a lot of how to videos out to take almost any weapon apart and put it back together in working condition.
Single action pistol's are about as easy as it gets.

 

[ArmedCorgi]

UPDATE! So up till now I've been trying to use triggers that aren't the exact oem trigger but are able to be "fitted" to work. Well, as you know I've been unsuccessful at fitting them, hence this thread. I checked back with Taylor's & Co. and saw that they had in stock, an action pack kit (kit with all the action parts, ie. bolt, trigger, trigger/bolt spring, hand, etc.) so I ordered it. It arrived today and had the correct oem trigger. So I installed it and what do you know, my hammer stays cocked. Who would have thought having the right parts would make the difference, lol. It could definitely use some smoothing up, but that's for another time. I also swapped out the trigger/bolt spring since when comparing the one that originally came in the gun with the one in the kit, the kit one was not as flattened out. This plus a .002 cylinder shim, has helped firm up the cylinder lock up a bit.