RPR 6 Creedmoor Barrel Swap (Instructional)

[Carlos Hathcock]

DISCLAIMER: I am not a professional gunsmith or firearms repair technician. The following information is for discussion / informational purposes only and not intended to instruct any individual on installation of THEIR barrel or work on THEIR firearm.

Wanted to post this up for anyone considering their own barrel swap on their Ruger Precision Rifle. Mine is a basically stock 6mm Creedmoor purchased in October of 2018. It is topped with a Vortex Viper PST 6-24 on Vortex rings with bubble level. Have been shooting a combination of factory Hornady match ammo and mostly hand loads.

After some research, a small investment in tools, and a couple hours I was able to do this project on my own....and until proven at the range....I'm assuming successfully. My factory barrel has at least 1500 rounds down it and groups had started to open up just a bit. Still a good shooter, but not as good as I need / want it to be. I may still upgrade to a Shillen, Krieger, etc. barrel this season but thought trying installation of a stock barrel would be good practice.

Located a low round count barrel on another site. Stock 6mm Creedmoor 24" Ruger barrel. Had most required tools but needed to buy some others, which can be used for other projects as well.

1. AR Armorers wrench for barrel nut. (Amazon $ 37.00)

2. 6.5 Creedmoor Forster GO / NO GO gauges (6.5 Creed has the same case dimensions, less the neck diameter, as the 6 Creed so they will work for both) (Amazon $ 79.95)



3. Barrel vise. (Amazon $89.95)



As I posted in another thread, this was a used stock barrel with some questionable wear. I chose to install it anyway because I didn't spend a ton of money on it and I wanted to try this install and felt a little better using a lower dollar barrel as a practice run.



This was the youtube video I watched and used as a guide. There are a few available but I liked his presentation and methodology. He doesn't go over EVERY disassembly step, but you should be able to handle that without guidance from another.


He did a great job highlighting the headspacing, which in my opinion, is one of the most important points. Here we go. I'm going to post this as multiples as I assume I won't be able to upload too many pics on one post.

 

[Carlos Hathcock]

Once I got the bench vise mounted, I cleared the chamber and checked it's unloaded. I removed the scope / level and took off the 6 handguard screws located near the barrel nut.


You'll need to remove the ejector pin / spring from the bolt with a good drift / hammer. The ejector pin is held in with a simple roll pin like most ejector assemblies are, so make sure you don't lose the pin / spring when you tap out the roll pin.



Once the handguard is off, you need to remove the handguard mounting nut. This isn't really torqued on too bad but it does require I believe a 1 3/8" open ended wrench, which I don't have so the mini crescent wrench was called into service.



Once the handguard nut is off you can get to the barrel nut.



Before you go wrenching on the nut with a cheater bar, remember there's a barrel nut lock tab underneath which needs to be removed.



Some claim that barrel nut is a bastard to get off but all I really needed to do was use a medium dead blow hammer to break it loose. Couple tap tap taps.

 

[kev74]

Nice write-up!

 

[Carlos Hathcock]

Whether you do it now, or in the early stages, you'll need to remove the picatinny rail and main magazine / trigger housing as I had to put the action in my vise when it came time to torque the barrel nut.




Once the barrel nut is loose, simply twist off the action and set aside. This was a good time to inspect the chamber.....and clean it. Mine was pretty nasty and it's my fault for letting it get that bad.


Cleaned some factory oils off the factory barrel thread and applied a thin coat of never seize.



(I actually wiped a bunch off but never took another pic)

Then twist on you original barrel but and thread on your action again.

 

[Carlos Hathcock]

So once the action is back on, I put the action in the vise so that when you twist the barrel into the action, you insert your go gauge and can actually feel the barrel bottoming out on the gauge for headspace when you're turning the barrel. The youtube video does a great job on the process for using the GO and NO GO gauges to finalize your headspace and final torque your barrel nut to the required 75 ft lbs. Simply check, re-check, and re-check during and after you torque the barrel nut.


Removing the ejector pin from your bolt is really key as it will interfere with the "feel" when you set the head space by turning the barrel. Leaving the extractor claw in is fine as you actually hear it "click" on the gauge when your approaching the right headspace.

Once that's set, re-install your handguard nut. I did my best to clock it plumb with the action but it's a little tricky to get it perfect. I don't think it's accuracy critical but it will (should) give you a level and plumb arrangement between the handguard and the pic rail, which you'd like to be level.

Follow re-installation of everything backwards and pay attention you don't re-install your pic rail backwards. Mine is a factory +20 MOA and you might not notice it's backwards if you're not paying attention.

 

[Carlos Hathcock]

So this process took me probably about 4 hours since I had to mount my bench vise, double check my progress against the video, and jockey things around in the vise not thinking clearly as my first dry run. To my knowledge, everything has been done correctly and I hope to maybe load up some ammo and get to the range today to see if it blows up (insert humor).



I would say my next swap should take no more than 2 hours complete now that I've done it once. (Your first drum brake job takes all weekend and then the next one takes one hour). I'll update with range results and if I don't, you'll know I did something wrong and am in the hospital (just kidding). With a couple tools, patience, and making sure things are checked, this isn't a difficult process. Hope this is helpful....

 

[kev74]

Again, nice write up!

Don't worry.. it shouldn't blow up. Worst case is you stretch out all your brass. Or shoot the barrel down range?!?!?!?

 

[Carlos Hathcock]

Again, nice write up!

Don't worry.. it shouldn't blow up. Worst case is you stretch out all your brass. Or shoot the barrel down range?!?!?!?

I'm OK with the barrel going down range.... as long as its sub MOA.

 

[Carlos Hathcock]

Range tested. Face intact.

 

[kev74]

Range tested. Face intact.

Accuracy meet your expectations?

 

[Carlos Hathcock]

Accuracy meet your expectations?

Technically, not yet. I never had time to buy target bullets so I ran some 100g lead tipped Hornady's and just picked a load. More testing function and this point than anything else.

 

[Shoots100]

Excellent post's.
Now your in the brotherhood of the barrel nut, albeit a ruger barrel nut.
Been working on savage rifles for over 3 decades and learned that the world is your oyster when you don't have to ask someone to work on your rifles.
While your shooting your newest barrel, it's time to save your $$ and put it towards a custom barrel.
Can't have those tools you bought collecting dust !
Also, I gave up buying no go gauges.
Just put a pc of scotch tape on the rear of the go gauge to make it a no go gauge.
Great job and happy shooting.
SJC

 

[Carlos Hathcock]

Had to gather up some better quality projectiles. Need to see if this barrel has anything to give me.

Loaded up some 115DTAC's and 110 Sierra Match Kings. I'll run 4-5 groups each and report back.

 

[Carlos Hathcock]

Managed to sneak out this afternoon to run some load ladders. Didn't go too high just yet. Started with a .020" jump and ran some loads in .5g increments starting at 38.0g up to 40.0g H4350 with 115 DTAC's. May run up to 41.0 or 41.5g. Once I find a decent mode I'll narrow it down and tinker with seating depths.

 

[Carlos Hathcock]

Think I'll work within this load and make some tweaks. When I get 5 in 1 I'll stop....