Shotshell Reloading Questions (410, 20,12)

[NFG]

Good Morning,

My infantile research on reloading various Shot shells has lead me to having a mature enough set of questions to ask this group. Here are my plans

My initial plans, no order of priority.

• 410
  • personal defense
  • game loads (slugs, buckshot and birdshot).
  • Less lethal (my own personal interests and dabbling)
• 20/12
  • Carrying over knowledge from 410
  • Game loads (slugs, buckshot and birdshot).

My questions:

• Does it matter if I use a natural vs manufactured over powder card material? I have several pounds of raw wool my wife used in past to pack pillows. based on below video this is possible and has many benefits.
• I plan on hand loading (not with a press) 410 / 20 Ga shells and using a press for 12 Ga. Is there any difference between using an overshot card and hot gluing it or using a crimp? Plan on field reloading when at camp if needed.

Resources

2. Lyman Shotshell Manual 4th Edition

 

[repete]

Sorry, never reloaded shot shells so I'm no help here.

 

[FP1201]

Shotgun shells have a huge number of variables, all of which will effect the end result. Everything makes a difference; hull maker and type, wad brand and model, powder type and weight, primer, cards, crimp, etc. it all matters.
I strongly suggest the Lyman Shotshell Reloading Manual. and leaning one first, then the others will be easy.
You are being redirected...

 

[Tisto]

I would caution you against loading shotshells without using a press to do so. If you expect to use modern components such as plastic wads, they need to be compressed upon seating over the powder charge. Fold crimping ensures that the combination of components remains assembled correctly and prevents shot from spilling out.

Using old style components such as paper shells, overr powder cards, felt wads and black powder is an art that most people have lost. Combining old type components with modern components can be a recipe for disaster.

Still, there are times where a roll crimp that holds an over shot card in place can be useful. Those situations are very rare though. As far as you using hot melt glue to hold an over shot card in place ? NO. Don't do it. In a few instances where the folded crimp did not take and shot is leaking out of a shell, one may use a bit of hot candle wax to seal the shell, but should not use any more than is necessary to stop the leakage.

410 shells are a strange animal. They do not use a wad like you would find in any other shell. Rather, they use a shot cup. The cup has no space occupying cushion at the base. It only seals the powder inside the shell and surrounds the shot from contact with the barrel wall. 410 shells are difficult enough to reload on a press, simply due to the need to get all the components to fill the shell correctly, without overfilling it. My opinion is to not attempt to load them without a modern press.

Contrary to many opinions, component selection in a shotshell is just as crucial as in a metallic cartridge. Changing one item in your load can dramatically affect pressures. Primers are not interchangeable, neither are wads. Find a suitable recipe in an established reloading manual ( NOT some shit you found on "Three-fingered Joe's reloading tutorial" on youtube ) [ There's probably a reason he only has three fingers ]

Reloading can be a rewarding hobby. It can also be deadly. It's up to you.

 

[Acer-m14]

Straight hull or Tapered .. brands do matter ..

federal hulls .. game club .. Rem .. Win .. and them UK ones

you need books or real data ..

pick your powder and go to there websites .. most have load data for the hulls and what to use ..

NOW !! if your wanting to load 12ga shot with black powder .. that is another rabbit hole of learning i went down yrs ago

@NFG

the video is not available to watch .

 

[Acer-m14]

As far as you using hot melt glue to hold an over shot card in place

hot gluing shot card i haven't seen .. but seen skeet shooters reloading 410 and have to hot glue on the crimp or candle wax it .. to get a few more rounds from the hull .. lol

 

[FP1201]

Straight hull or Tapered .. brands do matter ..

federal hulls .. game club .. Rem .. Win .. and them UK ones

you need books or real data ..

pick your powder and go to there websites .. most have load data for the hulls and what to use ..

NOW !! if your wanting to load 12ga shot with black powder .. that is another rabbit hole of learning i went down yrs ago

@NFG

the video is not available to watch .

IMHO if you're going to reload shotshells there are three standbys' and the rest irrespective of brand that just aren't the same and will cause headaches, especially the "economy" shells. Winchester AA, Remington STX, and Federal Gold Medal are the best for multiple and consistent reloads. don't believe it? take an assortment and cut them in half lengthwise on a Bandsaw, then take a good hard look, feel the plastic, notice how it bends and springs back, and after a while you'll see why the cheap stuff doesn't reload very well.

 

[Acer-m14]

IMHO if you're going to reload shotshells there are three standbys' and the rest irrespective of brand that just aren't the same and will cause headaches, especially the "economy" shells. Winchester AA, Remington STX, and Federal Gold Medal are the best for multiple and consistent reloads. don't believe it? take an assortment and cut them in half lengthwise on a Bandsaw, then take a good hard look, feel the plastic, notice how it bends and springs back, and after a while you'll see why the cheap stuff doesn't reload very well.

i agree .. i mentioned the UK ones because i do reload the RIO and Fiocchi hulls at times ..

i get about 5 reloads from them then the crimp starts messing up .

where as the AA and STX and others you can get a good 10 to 15

and for wads i go with the ClayBuster brand