Stripped Strain Screw Hole - S&W Model 10

[kev74]

I bought a used Smith & Wesson Model 10 revolver a few months ago and finally got around to disassembling it and giving it a thorough cleaning.

Upon reassembly, I found that the strain screw would not take enough stress to tension the main spring, and would just slip in the hole. I'm guessing it was stripped out by a previous owner and threadlocked into place, although I didn't notice anything wrong when I disassembled it.

I made a new slightly oversized 8-32 thread strain screw hoping there would be enough thread in the frame to hold it, but that one slipped too.

I'm thinking my options are either drill and tap for a larger screw, weld/braze the hole and redrill and tap for the correct screw, or make a tiny thread insert.

Any thoughts or guidance is appreciated.

 

[FRANKIE]

Don’t want to derail the thread, but I would first check if S&W would repair this and probably for free. In any case I would by all means stay with the same screw. This screw is essential to the operation of the revolver. Definitely no insert. And stepping up to a 10-32, where would you get such a screw with this profile in 10-32?, and would the bigger size compromise the integrity of the frame? If you weld drill and tap, you would not have a jig to get the proper angle. Then of course filing and refinishing.
Give Smith a ring. They are surprisingly good with keeping there products healthy.

 

[Deplorable Me]

Smith and Wesson Forum? Might be faster than a S&W factory inquiry.

 

[FRANKIE]

Hey definitely get that model 10 healthy
Remember it as a kid on the Superman TV series
In the opening,
“Faster than a speeding bullet”
History man!

 

[kev74]

Don’t want to derail the thread, but I would first check if S&W would repair this and probably for free. In any case I would by all means stay with the same screw. This screw is essential to the operation of the revolver. Definitely no insert. And stepping up to a 10-32, where would you get such a screw with this profile in 10-32?, and would the bigger size compromise the integrity of the frame? If you weld drill and tap, you would not have a jig to get the proper angle. Then of course filing and refinishing.
Give Smith a ring. They are surprisingly good with keeping there products healthy.

The gun is from 1977 or so. I haven't called yet, but it it my understanding S&W isn't doing such a good job of servicing older guns. In any case, I like doing stuff like this myself.

I have no problem making a new screw of the proper dimensions. I already tried making a slightly oversized screw, but there weren't enough threads in the frame to hold it against the force of the spring.

I'm leaning towards making a small nut and using it in combination with some kind of thread forming compound. I think loc tite makes stuff that looks promising.

 

[kev74]

Smith and Wesson Forum? Might be faster than a S&W factory inquiry.

I've got a thread going at S&W Forum. Thanks!

 

[FRANKIE]

The gun is from 1977 or so. I haven't called yet, but it it my understanding S&W isn't doing such a good job of servicing older guns. In any case, I like doing stuff like this myself.

I have no problem making a new screw of the proper dimensions. I already tried making a slightly oversized screw, but there weren't enough threads in the frame to hold it against the force of the spring.

I'm leaning towards making a small nut and using it in combination with some kind of thread forming compound. I think loc tite makes stuff that looks promising.

Didn’t know you had a lathe, I don’t! lol! All the power to you ! You got this.

 

[repete]

Didn’t know you had a lathe, I don’t! lol! All the power to you ! You got this.

He's got a kick ass mill too, He won't let me see cause I drool to much!

 

[FRANKIE]

He's got a kick ass mill too, He won't let me see cause I drool to much!

Probably sitting next to his CNC plasma table?
Forget it I won’t ask lol!

 

[kev74]

He's got a kick ass mill too, He won't let me see cause I drool to much!

I won't let you see it because I'm embarrassed about the mess in my shop.

It's this one.



No plasma table yet. I'm a little handicapped in the CAD department.

 

[FRANKIE]

I won't let you see it because I'm embarrassed about the mess in my shop.

It's this one.

View attachment 182542

No plasma table yet. I'm a little handicapped in the CAD department.

Hey I don’t mind a messy shop that means lots of activity. Very nice rig man

 

[S&W Fan]

Interested in a Bridgeport ?
Very similar to this .

 

[kev74]

Interested in a Bridgeport ?
Very similar to this .
View attachment 182573

I wish. I've got a low ceiling in my shop. This was the biggest I could fit.

 

[FRANKIE]

Interested in a Bridgeport ?
Very similar to this .
View attachment 182573

What’s something like that weigh?

 

[kev74]

What’s something like that weigh?

Somewhere around 2000 lbs. Maybe a bit more.

 

[S&W Fan]

Close to a ton I believe

 

[kev74]

I think my plan is going to be to fill the hole with a metal filler epoxy, then redrill and tap the hole, then back the screw up with a nut on the inside of the frame. If this doesn't work, I can use more invasive means later.

I'm going to keep thinking it over for a couple of days though before I start.

 

[S&W Fan]

I wish. I've got a low ceiling in my shop. This was the biggest I could fit.

Actually the one that my brother in Law wants to get rid of is a bit more squatty than the one pictured. If I remember correctly we had to switch trailers from a one ton to a small low boy trailer to pick it up. It was around 2200 lbs

 

[kev74]

Actually the one that my brother in Law wants to get rid of is a bit more squatty than the one pictured. If I remember correctly we had to switch trailers from a one ton to a small low boy trailer to pick it up. It was around 2200 lbs

If you can get me an overall height measurement, I might be interested. Make and model # would be helpful too.

 

[S&W Fan]

If you can get me an overall height measurement, I might be interested. Make and model # would be helpful too.

I’ll look into it when I can. I meant to say that it is my Sister in Law who will be getting rid of it. My B I L just past recently.

 

[spat]

I think my plan is going to be to fill the hole with a metal filler epoxy, then redrill and tap the hole, then back the screw up with a nut on the inside of the frame. If this doesn't work, I can use more invasive means later.

I'm going to keep thinking it over for a couple of days though before I start.

I might be tempted to use a metal filler. Epoxy just seems wrong on something like that (although it would probably work just as well)!

Maybe braze it.

Or, if you have the machining capacity, make a threaded insert out of matching stainless, drill the hole out to accommodate that, and braze the insert in. With the insert brazed in place it should mitigate the loss of strength from the slightly oversized hole.

Would have to be a careful brazing job though.

And might want to research if the frame was heat treated at all.

 

[kev74]

I might be tempted to use a metal filler. Epoxy just seems wrong on something like that (although it would probably work just as well)!

Maybe braze it.

Or, if you have the machining capacity, make a threaded insert out of matching stainless, drill the hole out to accommodate that, and braze the insert in. With the insert brazed in place it should mitigate the loss of strength from the slightly oversized hole.

Would have to be a careful brazing job though.

And might want to research if the frame was heat treated at all.

I might as well weld it if I were to braze. I'd prefer to not do anything that hot so I don't have to worry about reblueing. The hole is at the bottom of the grip frame, so I'm not worried about heat treatment.

The metal fillers are an epoxy base - more JB Weld than clear 5 minute epoxy.. I've patched a couple of motors with the metal filler stuff and have seen it work miracles.

The plan for now is to start with less invasive and work my way up.

 

[spat]

I might as well weld it if I were to braze. I'd prefer to not do anything that hot so I don't have to worry about reblueing. The hole is at the bottom of the grip frame, so I'm not worried about heat treatment.

The metal fillers are an epoxy base - more JB Weld than clear 5 minute epoxy.. I've patched a couple of motors with the metal filler stuff and have seen it work miracles.

The plan for now is to start with less invasive and work my way up.

Yea, those metal filled epoxies are great. JB weld is practically a genericized trademark for them now.

I think they will probably work fine, I would just have an aversion to adding plastic to a gun like that on general principle

 

[kev74]

Yea, those metal filled epoxies are great. JB weld is practically a genericized trademark for them now.

I think they will probably work fine, I would just have an aversion to adding plastic to a gun like that on general principle

If it makes you feel better, it will be backed up by a nut made from drill rod - good stuff!

 

[Acer-m14]

Interested in a Bridgeport ?
Very similar to this .
View attachment 182573

i was gunna bring up the Bridgeport lol

 

[S&W Fan]

I might as well weld it if I were to braze. I'd prefer to not do anything that hot so I don't have to worry about reblueing. The hole is at the bottom of the grip frame, so I'm not worried about heat treatment.

The metal fillers are an epoxy base - more JB Weld than clear 5 minute epoxy.. I've patched a couple of motors with the metal filler stuff and have seen it work miracles.

The plan for now is to start with less invasive and work my way up.

Any suggestions from the peanut gallery over at the S&W forum?

 

[dsdmmat]

Something like Brownell’s Steel bedding compound is what I would do. It stands up to the recoil of large caliber rifles. It can always be drilled out if it fails. Otherwise I would enlarge the hole and tap it for a larger screw.

 

[kev74]

Any suggestions from the peanut gallery over at the S&W forum?

Some good. Some not so good.

 

[FRANKIE]

I might as well weld it if I were to braze. I'd prefer to not do anything that hot so I don't have to worry about reblueing. The hole is at the bottom of the grip frame, so I'm not worried about heat treatment.

The metal fillers are an epoxy base - more JB Weld than clear 5 minute epoxy.. I've patched a couple of motors with the metal filler stuff and have seen it work miracles.

The plan for now is to start with less invasive and work my way up.

Good stuff man. I remember breaking off a rotted
Heater hose outlet on 1990 3.1 Buick intake. After finding a new coolant source I plugged the old port with JB weld. Stood up to engine heat, coolant pressure. Even when I blew the engine after severely overheating it. The JB weld wasn’t the weak spot that the coolant blew out of.

 

[Vantrepes]

How thick is the material for the female threads? A keycert, or helicoil would be my suggestion if there's enough meat behind it