Time/effort to reload .223/5.56

[Checkers]

Hey everyone,

So I've been doing a lot of research on reloading lately, and from what I've seen, rifles seem to take forever. Is it really worth it? I mean, my time isn't super valuable, but compared to pistols it just seems insane

1. Deprime all brass
2. Clean it all
3. Inspect for damage/deformation
4. Measure it all
5. Trim if necessary

And that's all before even actually doing any reloading. Looking at and measuring 500 individual pieces of brass and trimming, say, 100 cases, sounds like it will take hours..... Am I making a mountain out of a molehill, or is it as time-consuming as it seems?

I totally understand why people reload, especially for accuracy, but reloading plinking ammo and once fired brass just seems insane.

 

[togmaster]

Case prep is everything. You can buy processed brass and save that step if so inclined.

 

[dsdmmat]

Need to get yourself a good high speed trimmer. That does all three action at once. Or just buy once fired processed brass. Of course that defeats the purpose of reloading plinking ammo.

 

[meketrefe]

I agree get a nice 3 way trimmer. In terms of accuracy the forster is the most consistent and faster one for me.

This is what I do with some of the brass to load rifle reasonably fast w/o loosing control:

1) Wash
I wash the brass and or sonic clean it depending how bad it is. I segregate the brass and do it in batches
so while I wash one I have another one dry ready to take the press. In the summer you might use the sun
as a natural cheap drier in the winter on top of a heating vent 24 to 48 hrs.

2) Resize (1st pass progressive)
spray the case with some bootleg lube in a large plastic bowl and shake them a little. I use canola oil and alcohol.
I dump the brass normally 200 to 300 cases at the time in the auto feeder of the progressive press.
I only have the resizing die or might have decapping and resizing w/o the pin depending on the primer crimp
situation. At this point is a matter of going up and down. The press is very reliable sometimes I don't get one
single stoppage or if there is one or two is just a case coming down backwards. Very easy job, up and down
easy strokes.

3) 3 way cutter and primer pocket as needed.
I run the collected brass through the foster 3 way trimmer. This gives me a very consisten cut without burrs.
If the primer pocket has a crimp or never has been done before I run it for a second on the pocket trimmer.
Same way I run a brush in the pocket if I see any primer residue still left.
If this was for match grade ammo I will punch a flash hole uniformer.
All these operations are done with motorized units and in one efficient move with one bin on the right and the
other on the left. Aside from the forster mini lathe/trimmer I still use the RCBS power station that has everything that
I need running from a 110v outlet.

4) Annealing
This is optional. Not all the calibers need it and at different times. I also use a machine and the batch system
to do it more efficiently. Never use water to dump hot cases. This way one does the opposite to annealing.


5) 2nd Wash.
I give the batches a 2nd wash. Not much is needed just very hot water and let them soak in some soap to eliminate
any grease residue. If this is for prime hunting ammo to store for long periods (years/decades) I might give it an extra wash
and rinse. I don't care about shiny brass but I do care about consistent super clean brass that will not contaminate
powders nor primers.
Since I work in batches while I might be doing a 2nd wash in one I might be doing a 1st wash in another batch and
retrieving already dry batches.
I have washed brass ready to go for any caliber washed only and washed and prepped properly marked with the
nr. of reloads, batch, etc... Little simple steps make for great organization and efficiency in the long run.

6) Charging, seating and crimp.
Lastly I setup the press for the 2nd run. I setup the dummy (template) and use a few rounds to setup the charge,
COAL, etc.. although this is very quick with a press if you don't change bushings.
I have primer tubes ready to go all labeled and the reservoir ready with powder. Also bullet feeder if applies
that with rifle the tube will serve one bullet in my finger tips vs. dumping. Sill like the feeling of a bullet
and feel for imperfections in case, neck or bullet during feeding. I put the charge cop and in any case
I leave one stage open before the seating die that with a good LED light lets me see the case inside no matter what
caliber. The last is a small crimp that I put whether I have nor not cannelure. Almost nothing w/o the cannelure
as we do not want to deform the bullet.
So for every stroke the die stations will perform in this order:

1) prime only at the upstroke
2) charge the case with powder (case activated)
3) powder cop and/or opening to peek.
4) seated bullet comes to my fingers in left hand.
5) factory crimp (amost all the time is factory crimp)

For ever now and then I pick a case and put it on my gauge to verify COAL measuring from the datum using the bulle gauge.

7) Labeling and Storage
Once the dumper is full I transfer to a proper package indicating all the information about the brass, charges and bullets.
I date and put a batch nr coded with caliber. For example 308W_R15_175TMK_16_09A (easy to guess).
This goes into my log book and then referenced into my shooting log for whatever purposes.

1/2 work is in washing and prepping the brass that is key for accuracy.

you can avoid certain things like for pistol you don't trim. Or don't be too anal to segregate and prep brass if it is for
plinking or regular practice but do not miss any of the esential safety steps.
If top speed is one's goal then they should probably avoid reloading. For reloading safety is more important than speed
and while can produce good amounts of ammo with good preparation and quality equipment it requires patience.
Slow downs and stoppages will happen and one has to deal with them so there is no shortcuts here.

However, Patience rewards those who make use of it.

 

[Eddie Gunks]

Case prep is everything. You can buy processed brass and save that step if so inclined.

I buy processed brass. All my ammo is far better than most over the counter ammo.

Still costs like 28-38 cents per round. But you are getting ammo that would cost you $1 plus to buy.

 

[Checkers]

I agree get a nice 3 way trimmer. In terms of accuracy the forster is the most consistent and faster one for me.

This is what I do with some of the brass to load rifle reasonably fast w/o loosing control:

1) Wash
I wash the brass and or sonic clean it depending how bad it is. I segregate the brass and do it in batches
so while I wash one I have another one dry ready to take the press. In the summer you might use the sun
as a natural cheap drier in the winter on top of a heating vent 24 to 48 hrs.

2) Resize (1st pass progressive)
spray the case with some bootleg lube in a large plastic bowl and shake them a little. I use canola oil and alcohol.
I dump the brass normally 200 to 300 cases at the time in the auto feeder of the progressive press.
I only have the resizing die or might have decapping and resizing w/o the pin depending on the primer crimp
situation. At this point is a matter of going up and down. The press is very reliable sometimes I don't get one
single stoppage or if there is one or two is just a case coming down backwards. Very easy job, up and down
easy strokes.

3) 3 way cutter and primer pocket as needed.
I run the collected brass through the foster 3 way trimmer. This gives me a very consisten cut without burrs.
If the primer pocket has a crimp or never has been done before I run it for a second on the pocket trimmer.
Same way I run a brush in the pocket if I see any primer residue still left.
If this was for match grade ammo I will punch a flash hole uniformer.
All these operations are done with motorized units and in one efficient move with one bin on the right and the
other on the left. Aside from the forster mini lathe/trimmer I still use the RCBS power station that has everything that
I need running from a 110v outlet.

4) Annealing
This is optional. Not all the calibers need it and at different times. I also use a machine and the batch system
to do it more efficiently. Never use water to dump hot cases. This way one does the opposite to annealing.


5) 2nd Wash.
I give the batches a 2nd wash. Not much is needed just very hot water and let them soak in some soap to eliminate
any grease residue. If this is for prime hunting ammo to store for long periods (years/decades) I might give it an extra wash
and rinse. I don't care about shiny brass but I do care about consistent super clean brass that will not contaminate
powders nor primers.
Since I work in batches while I might be doing a 2nd wash in one I might be doing a 1st wash in another batch and
retrieving already dry batches.
I have washed brass ready to go for any caliber washed only and washed and prepped properly marked with the
nr. of reloads, batch, etc... Little simple steps make for great organization and efficiency in the long run.

6) Charging, seating and crimp.
Lastly I setup the press for the 2nd run. I setup the dummy (template) and use a few rounds to setup the charge,
COAL, etc.. although this is very quick with a press if you don't change bushings.
I have primer tubes ready to go all labeled and the reservoir ready with powder. Also bullet feeder if applies
that with rifle the tube will serve one bullet in my finger tips vs. dumping. Sill like the feeling of a bullet
and feel for imperfections in case, neck or bullet during feeding. I put the charge cop and in any case
I leave one stage open before the seating die that with a good LED light lets me see the case inside no matter what
caliber. The last is a small crimp that I put whether I have nor not cannelure. Almost nothing w/o the cannelure
as we do not want to deform the bullet.
So for every stroke the die stations will perform in this order:

1) prime only at the upstroke
2) charge the case with powder (case activated)
3) powder cop and/or opening to peek.
4) seated bullet comes to my fingers in left hand.
5) factory crimp (amost all the time is factory crimp)

For ever now and then I pick a case and put it on my gauge to verify COAL measuring from the datum using the bulle gauge.

7) Labeling and Storage
Once the dumper is full I transfer to a proper package indicating all the information about the brass, charges and bullets.
I date and put a batch nr coded with caliber. For example 308W_R15_175TMK_16_09A (easy to guess).
This goes into my log book and then referenced into my shooting log for whatever purposes.

1/2 work is in washing and prepping the brass that is key for accuracy.

you can avoid certain things like for pistol you don't trim. Or don't be too anal to segregate and prep brass if it is for
plinking or regular practice but do not miss any of the esential safety steps.
If top speed is one's goal then they should probably avoid reloading. For reloading safety is more important than speed
and while can produce good amounts of ammo with good preparation and quality equipment it requires patience.
Slow downs and stoppages will happen and one has to deal with them so there is no shortcuts here.

However, Patience rewards those who make use of it.

Dude, thank you so much for the writeup. Unfortunately I feel I'm even less likely to start reloading now..... Maybe jumping right into rifle is a bad idea, and I should just start reloading 9mm for the time being until I get the hang of things :-\

 

[Greywolf224]

I had reloaded for many years and yes it is time consuming and tedious unless you absolutely like it.
I reloaded only for .444 and .41. because of the high prices to pay per box for each. And also while I reloaded I customized loads for my firearms.

I could never see myself loading for 9mm, .38 0r .40 unless looking for that perfect load because of a compitition.

 

[Airborneguy]

I don't load rifle "plinking" ammo.

I agree that it seems to time consuming to be worthwhile. I load mostly .30-06 and 7.62x39 for hunting and enjoy giving each round a lot of attention at each step, but I am only loading 15-20 (sometimes less) at a time.

I do load handgun plinking ammo, but that requires must less precision so I can bang out a lot, quickly.

 

[dsdmmat]

I load batches of 500 at a time. I tend to shoot batches of 100-200 at a time so I load all winter and shoot all summer.

 

[meketrefe]

I have cranked as fast as 1000 rounds in 2+ hours but now I do not care so much about volume vs. the best
ammo I can produce even reloading progressive. I phase things out.

I also enjoy reloading 50 cases of the largest magnums and take my time to do it. Rarely shoot the 50 loads
in one seating anyway.

Pistol is a different thing. I use the progressive RCBS piggyback and Hornday and can produce a couple of thousand
in one rainy afternoon. Still wash the brass and try to segregate the best I can w/o being obsevive.

Also I have confirmed many times that one can actually reload match ammo in a progressive press.
As soon as the loads are low density, decent capacity the rounds seem to be as consistent or more as the best
comparable factory match ammo.

 

[meketrefe]

I load batches of 500 at a time. I tend to shoot batches of 100-200 at a time so I load all winter and shoot all summer.

500 count of 223, 7.62 or any easy to load forgiving caliber seem like a magic number for a one session w/o getting too tired.
And one ends up with a considerable number of rounds that most likely will not shoot in one day. At least I don't.

 

[Catskillkid]

It's a hobby like any other. If you enjoy doing it the time it takes doesn't matter. I been looking to get into reloading but currently the lack of space for a good reloading set-up is a bit of a disqualifer for me at the moment.

 

[Checkers]

I have cranked as fast as 1000 rounds in 2+ hours but now I do not care so much about volume vs. the best
ammo I can produce even reloading progressive. I phase things out.

I also enjoy reloading 50 cases of the largest magnums and take my time to do it. Rarely shoot the 50 loads
in one seating anyway.

Pistol is a different thing. I use the progressive RCBS piggyback and Hornday and can produce a couple of thousand
in one rainy afternoon. Still wash the brass and try to segregate the best I can w/o being obsevive.

Also I have confirmed many times that one can actually reload match ammo in a progressive press.
As soon as the loads are low density, decent capacity the rounds seem to be as consistent or more as the best
comparable factory match ammo.

Oh wow, ok that's way more than I thought. I thought it'd be more like 100 an hour or something. So it seems way more worthwhile now. It's just dauntingly expensive :-\

 

[mosquito]

Oh wow, ok that's way more than I thought. I thought it'd be more like 100 an hour or something. So it seems way more worthwhile now. It's just dauntingly expensive :-\

On the Dillon 1050's you can get around 1000 and hour if you have everything dialed in perfectly and all your primer tubes pre-loaded etc. on the 650....450 to 600 an hour and on the 550.....300 to 350 an hour (these are all averages and YMMV)

Definitely start with pistol. It will give you a more immediate gratification and quicken the learning curve and fun factor!

Skeeter

 

[meketrefe]

The problem with rifle is that trying to do the trimming and loading in one pass is that consistency is not there.
Also oily grass becomes part of the product so it is a matter of what kind of trade offs one is willing to make.
But for pistol a number of progressive presses can crank up 1K or more rounds in one hour.
The hornady and RCB feeders and primer system works as well as dillon or any other top maker.

 

[Checkers]

On the Dillon 1050's you can get around 1000 and hour if you have everything dialed in perfectly and all your primer tubes pre-loaded etc. on the 650....450 to 600 an hour and on the 550.....300 to 350 an hour (these are all averages and YMMV)

Definitely start with pistol. It will give you a more immediate gratification and quicken the learning curve and fun factor!

Skeeter

Any suggestions on a press that can go from Pistol to Rifle? I was thinking of the Lee Loadmaster. Not a bad price, and has 5 die holes for expansion later on

Lee Load-Master Progressive Press Kit 9mm Luger

 

[gun_slinger_boy]

If you really wanted to you could put once fired brass straight from the range on a progressive press and reload it. It's nice to have clean trimmed brass though.

 

[meketrefe]

The main proble with lee is the priming system.
Cannot even begin to compare with the other systems.
Also the powder measure works fine with stick powders but will jam with the fine pistol powders so you will have to add a quality case activaded dispenser made of steel.
Hornady lock n load is a good deal for a reliable system.

 

[Checkers]

The main proble with lee is the priming system.
Cannot even begin to compare with the other systems.
Also the powder measure works fine with stick powders but will jam with the fine pistol powders so you will have to add a quality case activaded dispenser made of steel.
Hornady lock n load is a good deal for a reliable system.

Ok so, in addition to the LnL (Linked below), I would just need a caliper, case trimmer, dies, and a shellplate (Not counting brass, primers, etc), right? Assuming I'm reloading rifle

Hornady Lock-N-Load AP Progressive Press

 

[meketrefe]

Don't you want the case feeder and /or bullet feeders?
I think there is a lot more to start with a good footing and the best thing is to assemble a list.
One can get started with a simple single press and then migrate to a progressive or you already have experience in a single press?
I think someone put a checklist for reloading otherwise I will post one.
The thing is people do thigns differently based on their space, budget, calibers, needs, likes and dislikes so I suggest before
ordering anything do a through analysis and order things progressively because some of the things that come in the kits,
some expensive ones, one might end up never using or using them once, as they find out there is something better, easier or that they simply like better for them.
I have been there my friend.

Of course one always needs a press so there is no harm in ordering that but if you want to add a case feeder then one needs
to calculate if a kit with feeder/feeders might be a better deal.

 

[meketrefe]

If you really wanted to you could put once fired brass straight from the range on a progressive press and reload it. It's nice to have clean trimmed brass though.

you don't really want to do that. you will ruin the dies and equipment. The best thing is to wash it with very hot water and a bit of simple green or
other cleaner agent. Then rinse with hot water and baking soda.
Even brass from the tumbler brings dust that ends up ruining your dies. It looks shiny and nice but it is full of abrasive dust so it needs to be washed no matter what.
The best is a bad ass sonic system but if this is not possible the water is the best. I do not care about shiny brass but clean brass.
I also wash it after prepping the brass so when it goes back into the progressive presses it is clean from oils. And oil gets also inside the case though
the sizer button and some residue might stick to he primer pocket and flash holes so wiping the cases alone is not the best one can do.
The 2nd wash is more clritical for match ammo and high performance ammo / hunting ammo for long term storage. I do this in batches rotating
so I don't really care and washing gives me super clean brass. 2nd wash can be done with hot water and drop of dish soap. All easy things and
can be dried easily in cardboard boxes in the sun or on top of a heating duct in the winter.

again, unless you want to trash your equipment always use washed brass.

 

[Phazer]

Any suggestions on a press that can go from Pistol to Rifle? I was thinking of the Lee Loadmaster. Not a bad price, and has 5 die holes for expansion later on

Lee Load-Master Progressive Press Kit 9mm Luger

I use the Lee Load Master (only because I didn't have enough ceiling height in the small space I'm forced to use for a Dillon XL 650 or Hornady Lock-and-Load).

If you are good with tinkering with mechanical things, then you could certainly consider the Load Master. Be aware, it will not work optimally right out of the box. With some modification and tuning, it can be made to work fairly well for what it is...a cheap progressive press with a dodgy priming system. I've been using my Load Master for 2 years to load 380acp, 9mm, and 45acp. Now that I've got a good "feel" for how the press needs to behave when loading, what to watch for, and upgraded the powder feed to the Lee Auto Drum, the press is doing its job for practice ammo. I can load 200-300 rounds an hour. I'm limited by primer issues, mainly.

There are good videos out there about how to modify the Load Master. But, if you've got the space and the money, get something better.

Oh...I'm about to start using this press to load .223. I'm going to resize/decap on a single stage press, trim and prep (using a Lyman Case Prep Xpress where one station will trim using the Lee trimmer spindle with an adapter that I picked up on eBay), prime with the Lee Ergo Prime, and then use the Load Master to charge/seat/crimp. We'll see how things go.

Adapter:
Case Prep Center Trimmer Adapter - Fits LEE TRIMMERS - Reloading Tool

 

[Checkers]

Don't you want the case feeder and /or bullet feeders?
I think there is a lot more to start with a good footing and the best thing is to assemble a list.
One can get started with a simple single press and then migrate to a progressive or you already have experience in a single press?
I think someone put a checklist for reloading otherwise I will post one.
The thing is people do thigns differently based on their space, budget, calibers, needs, likes and dislikes so I suggest before
ordering anything do a through analysis and order things progressively because some of the things that come in the kits,
some expensive ones one might end up never using or using ones once they find out there is something better, easier or that
they simply like better for them.
I have been there my friend.

Of course one always needs a press so there is no harm in ordering that but if you want to add a case feeder then one needs
to calculate if a kit with feeder/feeders might be a better deal.

I actually figured I'd start without any feeders, so I could treat it like a single stage, and manually load the cases and bullets. This way I'll be more involved and keep an eye on things, rather than just pulling a handle. So I'd basically load one case by hand, go through the stages, load bullet by hand, finish, start over. So this way it's like starting with a single stage, without the added cost of buying a progressive later on.

And no, I don't have any experience reloading unfortunately. I'm considering starting with 9mm though, so I don't have to worry about trimming and whatnot

 

[Checkers]

I use the Lee Load Master (only because I didn't have enough ceiling height in the small space I'm forced to use for a Dillon XL 650 or Hornady Lock-and-Load).

If you are good with tinkering with mechanical things, then you could certainly consider the Load Master. Be aware, it will not work optimally right out of the box. With some modification and tuning, it can be made to work fairly well for what it is...a cheap progressive press with a dodgy priming system. I've been using my Load Master for 2 years to load 380acp, 9mm, and 45acp. Now that I've got a good "feel" for how the press needs to behave when loading, what to watch for, and upgraded the powder feed to the Lee Auto Drum, the press is doing its job for practice ammo. I can load 200-300 rounds an hour. I'm limited by primer issues, mainly.

There are good videos out there about how to modify the Load Master. But, if you've got the space and the money, get something better.

Oh...I'm about to start using this press to load .223. I'm going to resize/decap on a single stage press, trim and prep (using a Lyman Case Prep Xpress where one station will trim using the Lee trimmer spindle with an adapter that I picked up on eBay), prime with the Lee Ergo Prime, and then use the Load Master to charge/seat/crimp. We'll see how things go.

I have a decent amount of ceiling height, so would you recommend the Lock n Load? I don't mind spending some money on a good set up, but I don't want to drop almost $1000 on something I might not even enjoy. I was hoping to keep startup costs around or below 500

 

[Phazer]

Let's not forget one of my primary reasons for reloading: The potential for a background check system for ammo purchases in New York.

The unSAFE Act had no provisions to background check powder, primers, or projectiles. So, until the next Democratic administration goes all-out nuts and tries to curtail the 2nd Amendment by strangling ammunition availability, reloading is an unSAFE Act loophole (that may certainly be closed at some point).

Remember, if you can reload, you can always cobble together some kind of ammunition. In a SHTF situation, you could always disassemble pistol cartridges of similar manufacture and use the powder to charge pistol cartridges of a different caliber that were lacking powder. I'm sure the same could apply to rifle cartridges. We're nowhere near that, yet. But, it's a nice safety net. Heck...even after an EMP, our mechanical presses will still work just fine (though, I need to get a standard balance scale since the only scale I've got now is digital).

 

[meketrefe]

I have a decent amount of ceiling height, so would you recommend the Lock n Load? I don't mind spending some money on a good set up, but I don't want to drop almost $1000 on something I might not even enjoy. I was hoping to keep startup costs around or below 500

Are you a patient and detailed oriented person and have healthy hands w/o like artritis or carpel tunnel?
I am asking you because no matter what you do the work is tedious and will also get your hands tired.
I think you might enjoy a motorized brass prepping unit, quality gauges, a quality battery scale for speed, brass and bullet feeders.
So I don't think you will be able to get a quality setup for $500. The lee you mention is a smaller risk but are you technically oriented
and will not get frustrated with priming stoppages and such?
Is there a chance you can get together with a friend to have a few reloading sessions and see how you do?
I think once you start it is better to commit to equipment that is going to make things more consistent and potentially easier but
if you do this to simply save time and money do not reload. You need to also like it. Because some days you will be putting a lot of time
to the point one might question the value of reloading. So one has to like the hobby imo.

 

[gun_slinger_boy]

This is what I use for trimming

Using the World’s Finest Trimmer

 

[Acer-m14]

I'm liking reloading because i can tailor my round to what i want it to do .. I'm not hunting at 500 yrds , so do i really need 3100fps and lots of recoil for hunting deer at 100 yrds .. i dont think .. making my hunting rounds for 270 win at 2900fps saving powder cost .. and total cost just under 50 cents a round .. buying manufacture loads over a buck a round .. and the plus is having friends over for a cook out and reloading party ..

 

[MilesTeg]

I think your question is multifaceted and will require a few more questions to be answered. Also reloading has a ton of opinions it's much like the ford vs. Chevy debate.

You've stated you want to reload pistol and rifle. This a normal goal and practice but the trouble comes in that they are almost opposites. Rifle rounds are usually tailored for precision and pistol rounds are tailored to blasting ammo and large quantities. These are not absolute but are the normal. This principle leads to the next portion of the debate.

Single stage vs. progressive press/ reloading. You can reload any type of ammo on eitherr system but each system fits a role pointed out above better than the other. The real debate on this part is what do you want. Both options work for either type of reloading.

Personally I always recommend starting with a single stage press. Most people say this because they feel you get a better understanding or reloading or because they believe you will get overloaded and miss something. I don't agree with that. I say start with a single stage is because you will always have a need for one. Even if you do get a progressive you will eventually buy a single stage they are that handy.

Lastly if you do go single stage there are ways to improve speed also ease quantity reloading. For speed there are case kickers and bin systems that will allow you to feed brass as fast as you can pull the handle. I just did this improvement to mine and it speed things up faster than I anticipated and am extremely happy with it. They key to reloading bulk ammo on a single stage is to have a ton of brass. I use the technical coffee can sorting system here. Each pistol caliber gets 2 cans - 1 for raw brass (dirty fired brass) 2 for sized cleaned brass (ready to reload). Rifle gets 3 cans-1 for raw, 2 for sized and cleaned, 3 for trimmed ready to reload.

Here's the key to this system working. All brass prep is done while I'm drinking and listening to the radio or the winter time. In order to do this you need to have a fairly large quantity of brass. Then next thing I do is hand prime usually when the wife is making me watch bad TV with her. I then put the primed rounds in ziplock bags ready to finish reloading. If they are pistol rounds I usually flare before putting in the ziplock bags. At this point I wait until there's a night where I'm not drinking and I charge and seat the bullets. I never charge rounds if I've been drinking! Yesterday I charged and seated 200 rounds in 1:15 minutes. This was setup time powder dispenser adjustment and one caliber swap. I also put the ammo in boxes and cleaned up in that time. So my point is if you do the prep work ahead of time actual reloading and concentration time on a single stage is relatively short.

Now that I have that case kicker on my single stage when I buy a progressive I will use my single stage as a deprime station in order to keep my progressive cleaner and hopefully running smoother.

 

[Checkers]

Miles,

Wow, I really like how you explained this. Alright, so it sounds like I'm going to go with a progressive. I'm not really in any huge rush, and I have a lot of free time on my hands where I'm just sitting around my house at night.

Ok so I think I am going to go with the Lee Challenger Breech Lock (Linked below). It's a single stage, comes with a lot of extras, and it's pretty cheap. I figured this would be fine while I learn, and I am the kind of person who would rush on a progressive, so it's smart for me to start on a single stage until I understand each step well enough where I can move a little faster. I'll also be doing precision rifle eventually, and a single stage would be good, like you said

Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit