Feedback on first time reloading equipment

[RooftopKorean]

Finished up my work bench / Reloading station today. Used a 1 3/4" thick butcher block and 2x4's. I have to sand it down and seal it with boiled linseed oil tomorrow along with my new shelves. The shelves I used black iron 1/2" floor flanges, 10" black iron piping and cap ends with some left over boards I cut down to 44".

I'm on the fence if I should go to Ikea and pick up some of the natural oak colored LACK walling shelves.

Anyway, here are the pictures. I still haven't received my InlineFabrications Lee Press Mount yet or the tons of reloading tools I have coming.

 

[repete]

Finished up my work bench / Reloading station today. Used a 1 3/4" thick butcher block and 2x4's. I have to sand it down and seal it with boiled linseed oil tomorrow along with my new shelves. The shelves I used black iron 1/2" floor flanges, 10" black iron piping and cap ends with some left over boards I cut down to 44".

I'm on the fence if I should go to Ikea and pick up some of the natural oak colored LACK walling shelves.

Anyway, here are the pictures. I still haven't received my InlineFabrications Lee Press Mount yet or the tons of reloading tools I have coming.

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Looks nice but your gonna out grow that in about 5 minutes! But then again it will force to keep thing neat and tidy so that may be a good thing.

 

[RooftopKorean]

Looks nice but your gonna out grow that in about 5 minutes! But then again it will force to keep thing neat and tidy so that may be a good thing.

Limited space living in an apartment in the five boroughs unfortunately. I have to make due with what i got. I am a neat freak anyway

 

[Deplorable Me]

See the side plywood panel? Half inch plywood, put on side and back of bench to stiffen up and keep it from racking. Put a bottom rail on it to distribute weight and a piece of carpet tile (glued) to keep floor from scratching.

 

[Deplorable Me]

I have RCBS gear and purchased a universal base plate to modularize my bench. When I gunsmith and do dirty work I can clear off the bench completely, those are harbor freight extra deep C-clamps. I use wing nuts and lock washers for fast change over. The black plywood is a custom riser so press is elevated to my optimum comfort level. Corners rounded so I stopped gashing my hip. I only use oil base Rustoleum paint for finish, brush on. Seems chemically resistant. Allows for cleaning up gun oil and solvents before switching over to reloading .

 

[RooftopKorean]

I have RCBS gear and purchased a universal base plate to modularize my bench. When I gunsmith and do dirty work I can clear off the bench completely, those are harbor freight extra deep C-clamps. I use wing nuts and lock washers for fast change over. The black plywood is a custom riser so press is elevated to my optimum comfort level. Corners rounded so I stopped gashing my hip. I only use oil base Rustoleum paint for finish, brush on. Seems chemically resistant. Allows for cleaning up gun oil and solvents before switching over to reloading .

My press will be mounted up top. Im going to drill holes to bolt down the mount.

The table is very sturdy the way I built it. With the side bars, rear bar and shelf I put in it does not wobble or sway. The feet has pseudo rubber pads (Slipstick Gorillapads) on it to prevent further damage to my floor.

I still have to sand down the butcher block top, maybe use a water based stain and seal with boiled linseed oil.

I think I will take a trip to Home Depot again and pick up some peg board and miscellaneous hooks to mount tools.

 

[dsdmmat]

Do all my rifle on a single stage press. Do all the pistol on an RCBS Pro2000 progressive press.

another press to consider is turret type. All your dies are mounted on top and you rotate them instead of the shell plate rotating. It is faster that a single stage but not as fast as a progressive.

 

[dsdmmat]

M mount my presses on 3/8 steel plates to prevent the bench top from cracking.

 

[RooftopKorean]

M mount my presses on 3/8 steel plates to prevent the bench top from cracking.

My butcher block top is 1.75" thick, you think that my turret press on the Inlinefabs Ultramount will cause that butcher block from cracking? It looks like it would distribute the pressure pretty well. I can always add a length of 2x4" under my butcher block where the bolts from the mounting points would be. I plan on drilling holes and using carriage bolt with lock washers and nuts so I can always remove it if I need space.

I am planning on doing the same thing with my 4" vice, then I would just drop the bolts in the holes to close them up rubber stops when I don't have them mounted to the table (although I think I would rarely remove them).



That is how my Loadmaster will look once I get the mount.

 

[RooftopKorean]

Here it is sanded and after applying 3 coats of boiled linseed oil. I also found some scrap wood to use as a backing so I could mount my peg board and bins and picked up a battery operated 4 point LED light from Harbor Freight. I used a voltage regulator, old micro USB cable and phone power box and wired up the light so I don't need to use batteries

 

[dwa12479]

Lookin good!

Here's a thread started some time ago with others reloading setups. Lots of good ideas.

Let's see your reloading room! (Pics only please!)

Reloaders: Post pics of your ultimate man (and women) caves! This will be a great place to get ideas from others who are as passionate about reloading, as you are! Let's try and keep this to photos and descriptions only, with as little commenting as possible. (OK, "some" commenting may not be...

nygunforum.com

 

[RooftopKorean]

Lookin good!

Here's a thread started some time ago with others reloading setups. Lots of good ideas.

Let's see your reloading room! (Pics only please!)

Reloaders: Post pics of your ultimate man (and women) caves! This will be a great place to get ideas from others who are as passionate about reloading, as you are! Let's try and keep this to photos and descriptions only, with as little commenting as possible. (OK, "some" commenting may not be...

nygunforum.com

Already been through it many many times But thank you.

 

[RooftopKorean]

Got some tools in. My stand from Inlinefabrications came in along with my Lyman Trimmer. Also got in my .303 british and 45-70 die sets.

 

[RooftopKorean]

Drilled holes in my pretty new table I made and mounted down my press and table vice. I also got in some new toys today.

Hornady Case Prep Trio and Frankford Arsenal Brass Tumbler with the media sifter, not gonna post a picture of the sifter as it's not really picture worthy. I ordered a bunch of bullets and powder from MidwayUSA and had a hell of a time finding Primers. First I attempted to purchase them from BassPro only to find out that they won't ship primers to NYC

Was eventually able to find what I needed at Brownells after sorting through their shit filtering / naming system.

.458 SOCOM
(200) Barnes TTSX, 458 SOCOM, 300 Grain
Powder: 1 lb - Hodgdon 110
Primer: Remington 2 1/2

.45-70 Government (Marlin 1895)
(200) Barnes TSX, 45-70 Caliber, 458 Diameter, 300 Grain
Powder: 1 lb - VIHT N-130
Primer: CCI #200

6.5mm Creedmoor
(200) Hornady SST 264, Caliber 6.5mm, 140 Grain
Powder: 1 lb - IMR 4350
Primer: Winchester WRL

.308 Winchester
(200) Nosler Accubond, 30 Caliber, 308 Diameter, 165 Grain
Powder: 1 lb Hodgdon CFE 223
Primer: Winchester WRL

.303 British
(200) Hornady InterLock, 303 Caliber, 312 Diameter, 174 Grain
Shared powder: IMR 4350
Primer: Winchester WRL

.223 Remington
(1000) Hornady V-MAX 22 Caliber, 224 Diameter 55 Grain
Powder: 1 lb Accurate 2520 (can also use Hodgdon CFE 223)
Primer: CCI #400

I bought primers in bulk, 1000 of each type I will be using. I also ordered:

• Lee Modern Reloading 2nd Edition book
• RCBS case neck brushes (for Case Prep Trio)
• Pocket reamer - small & large (for my Case Prep Trio)
• Shell Plates #5L, #8L, #10L

I think that is all I will need in order to start reloading. Hopefully the rest of my dies, Auto Drum Powder Measure and press upgrades will come soon!

 

[Carlos Hathcock]

Drilled holes in my pretty new table I made and mounted down my press and table vice. I also got in some new toys today.

Hornady Case Prep Trio and Frankford Arsenal Brass Tumbler with the media sifter, not gonna post a picture of the sifter as it's not really picture worthy. I ordered a bunch of bullets and powder from MidwayUSA and had a hell of a time finding Primers. First I attempted to purchase them from BassPro only to find out that they won't ship primers to NYC

Was eventually able to find what I needed at Brownells after sorting through their shit filtering / naming system.

(200) Barnes TTSX, 458 SOCOM, 300 Grain
Powder: 1 lb - Hodgdon 110
Primer: Remington 2 1/2

(200) Barnes TSX, 45-70 Caliber, 458 Diameter, 300 Grain
Powder: 1 lb - VIHT N-130
Primer: CCI #200

(200) Hornady SST 264, Caliber 6.5mm, 140 Grain
Powder: 1 lb - IMR 4350
Primer: Winchester WRL

(200) Nosler Accubond, 30 Caliber, 308 Diameter, 165 Grain
Powder: 1 lb Hodgdon CFE 223
Primer: Winchester WRL

(200) Hornady InterLock, 303 Caliber, 312 Diameter, 174 Grain
Shared powder: IMR 4350
Primer: Winchester WRL

(1000) Hornady V-MAX 22 Caliber, 224 Diameter 55 Grain
Powder: 1 lb Accurate 2520 (can also use Hodgdon CFE 223)
Primer: CCI #400

I bought primers in bulk, 1000 per type I will be using. I also ordered:

• Lee Modern Reloading 2nd Edition book
• RCBS case neck brushes (for Case Prep Trio)
• Pocket reamer - small & large (for my Case Prep Trio)
• Shell Plates #5L, #8L, #10L

I think that is all I will need in order to start reloading. Hopefully the rest of my dies, Auto Drum Powder Measure and press upgrades will come soon!


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You're loading .458 SOCOM?

 

[RooftopKorean]

You're loading .458 SOCOM?

Yeah, why? Should I not be?

 

[Carlos Hathcock]

Why didnt you say so?

 

[RooftopKorean]

Why didnt you say so?

Haha, awesome. I'm just hoping I don't blow myself up since this will be my first venture into reloading.

It would really suck to blow myself up after spending so much cash getting my reloading tools, setting everything up and the time reading up, watch YouTube videos and doing research.

 

[Carlos Hathcock]

I don't load that but I don't know if I'd want to. Little intimidating. I'll toss them in your box and you can blow shit up.

 

[RooftopKorean]

I don't load that but I don't know if I'd want to. Little intimidating. I'll toss them in your box and you can blow shit up.

Thanks.

 

[RooftopKorean]

Can anyone give me feedback on my bullet brand, type, grain / powder / primer combos for each caliber?

 

[dwa12479]

I don't load that but I don't know if I'd want to. Little intimidating. I'll toss them in your box and you can blow shit up.

It's easy. You just add powder till the case is almost full, and then use a bench vise to seat the projectile until it's tight. Voila!

 

[JamieZ]

Can anyone give me feedback on my bullet brand, type, grain / powder / primer combos for each caliber?

Feedback comes from research and I will start you off on what you should be looking for.

You say 223, you say 55gr v-max,,,,,,do you know the twist of the rifle you will be shooting these out of? Twist of the rifle determines the bullet weight of the bullet you choose.

You mentioned a couple of powders for this caliber. Do you care if the powder is temperature insensitive? I do because I shoot in the winter and shoot in the summer. Accuracy is based on velocity differential and you dont want a high Standard Deviation between shots caused by different temperatures. Which would be caused by powder that is more affected by temperature. Winter time bullet could be bullseye, summertime same bullet could be 4 inches high and off to the left because the bullet is coming out faster

That is one reason why I use Varget with 223
One reason why I use H4350 with 6 Creedmoor
One reason why I use xbr 8208 with 204


When choosing a bullet weight, know your twist of your barrel and whether the twist you have will shoot a particular weighted bullet without key holing.

When choosing powder, choose the powder that is temperature insensitive and will give you a lower standard deviation

When it comes to Primers,,,I pretty much always use CCI or Federal premium, just because of feedback Ive read

When it comes to cases,,,,I always choose a certain case by reviews,,,,being that the reviews are stating how close the cases are in weight, how good the primer pockets are, how close the measurements are and if the reviewers are stating they get quite a few reloads out of them

Im not a target shooter, Im a hunter. I just try my best with what I know and try to create a accurate bullet for the particular gun Im using it for.
Target shooters are more intense with the specifications they shoot for when reloading their ammunition,,,,to lower their standard deviation between shots

My wording might not be up to snuff or totally correct but Im sure there is way more knowledgeable people on here that will correct me

 

[RooftopKorean]

Feedback comes from research and I will start you off on what you should be looking for.

You say 223, you say 55gr v-max,,,,,,do you know the twist of the rifle you will be shooting these out of? Twist of the rifle determines the bullet weight of the bullet you choose.

You mentioned a couple of powders for this caliber. Do you care if the powder is temperature insensitive? I do because I shoot in the winter and shoot in the summer. Accuracy is based on velocity differential and you dont want a high Standard Deviation between shots caused by different temperatures. Which would be caused by powder that is more affected by temperature. Winter time bullet could be bullseye, summertime same bullet could be 4 inches high and off to the left because the bullet is coming out faster

That is one reason why I use Varget with 223
One reason why I use H4350 with 6 Creedmoor
One reason why I use xbr 8208 with 204


When choosing a bullet weight, know your twist of your barrel and whether the twist you have will shoot a particular weighted bullet without key holing.

When choosing powder, choose the powder that is temperature insensitive and will give you a lower standard deviation

When it comes to Primers,,,I pretty much always use CCI or Federal premium, just because of feedback Ive read

When it comes to cases,,,,I always choose a certain case by reviews,,,,being that the reviews are stating how close the cases are in weight, how good the primer pockets are, how close the measurements are and if the reviewers are stating they get quite a few reloads out of them

Im not a target shooter, Im a hunter. I just try my best with what I know and try to create a accurate bullet for the particular gun Im using it for.
Target shooters are more intense with the specifications they shoot for when reloading their ammunition,,,,to lower their standard deviation between shots

My wording might not be up to snuff or totally correct but Im sure there is way more knowledgeable people on here that will correct me

Wow, this is definitely what I was looking for.

AR Stoner 223 Wylde barrel has a 1:8 twist
.45-70 Gov't lever has 1:20 twist
6.5 Creedmoor rifle has 1:8 twist
.458 SOCOM upper has 1:14 twist
.308 rifle has 1:10 twist
.303 British rifle, not sure of the twist

I never thought about temperature but I guess since I shoot more or less indoors or on outdoor ranges during spring to fall. There shouldn't be huge temperature variances from freezing to hot.

I have hunted with my 6.5 Creedmoor and 45-70 some I will have to take a look into which powders are best for temperature variance; more for the 45-70 since you already spoke of the powder you use for your CM.

 

[JamieZ]

Wow, this is definitely what I was looking for.

AR Stoner 223 Wylde barrel has a 1:8 twist
.45-70 Gov't lever has 1:20 twist
6.5 Creedmoor rifle has 1:8 twist
.458 SOCOM upper has 1:14 twist
.308 rifle has 1:10 twist
.303 British rifle, not sure of the twist

I never thought about temperature but I guess since I shoot more or less indoors or on outdoor ranges during spring to fall. There shouldn't be huge temperature variances from freezing to hot.

I have hunted with my 6.5 Creedmoor and 45-70 some I will have to take a look into which powders are best for temperature variance; more for the 45-70 since you already spoke of the powder you use for your CM.

It will be a hit or a miss with the 55's in your 8 twist gun being that the 55 v-max is flat base. Reason I'm saying this is because I have a boatload of 55 Hornady flat base SP loaded up and my 8 twist doesnt really like them but it does like the boat tail 53gr V-max

My 8 twist 223 likes 60gr loads the best

The 6.5 I'm going to say 140's will probably shoot the best. I have a 6 creedmoor 8 twist and Ive never shot anything out of it but 105's. Buddy has the 6.5 8 twist and it loves the 140's,,,,both of us load with H4350

Easy way for me to know if I'm choosing a temperature insensitive powder when it comes to Hodgons powder,,,,,is to choose smokeless powder from their website, then click the plus next to smokeless powders, then click Extreme Powders.

Hodgons also has reloading data for every caliber for their powder on a seperate website. Google Hodgons,,,one site lists powder the other site will be reloading info for pistol, rifle and shotgun

Another way to make accurate loads is using case gauges. I just started doing this because I met someone off this board who did it. So I picked something up from someone who shoots targets competitively for the bolt action rifle I bought. Not sure how well it will work for an AR though being that the mag can only takes certain size bullets. Guess I will have to find out the next time I need to reload for the 6.8, 204 or the 223

 

[RooftopKorean]

I just got done case prepping (500) .223 brass. Just have to toss them in the tumbler now.

I tumbled them for 30 minutes last night but it got to be too loud to do it at 23:00. I will resume for 2 hours when I get home today. Hopefully after two hours it will have a nice shine to them.

 

[RooftopKorean]

I did some more brass when I got home today, this time I did (120) .303 British casings. They came out amazing after 2 hours of tumbling, they practically look brand new.



I also got in the rest of my dies. Unfortunately the idiot that I am I forgot to purchase the Lee Charging Die Set so I wasn't able to set up my Lee Auto Drum Powder Measure





I did get some upgrades for my Loadmaster from InLineFabrications.com. I got a swing arm with two red bins and the bin front plate as well as a roller handle to replace the ball. I also picked up the primer explosion shield since mine didn't come with it. Not sure if I need it but better to be safe than sorry. I also got my 5L, 8L and 10L shell plates in the mail.

 

[JamieZ]

Just a FYI if you are looking for a lower deviation between your loads, if consistent accuracy matters. The auto powder drops are nice to have, I have one but use it differently than how it's supposed to be used. I set the drop for a grain less than what I want, then I dump the powder out of the case on to a digital scale, then I use a powder trickler to bring the powder measurement up to exactly what I want.

Powder Trickler | Large Powder Capacity| Frankford Arsenal | Frankford Arsenal

Powder Trickler

www.frankfordarsenal.com

I do this because the auto powder dump won't dump the exact amount each time. Sometimes it will but the next drop could be a CH over and the next drop could be CH under.

Thats why I use the auto dump set at 1grs less than what I want.

If you dont do it this way your accuracy will still be good but not as good between rounds.

 

[RooftopKorean]

Just a FYI if you are looking for a lower deviation between your loads, if consistent accuracy matters. The auto powder drops are nice to have, I have one but use it differently than how it's supposed to be used. I set the drop for a grain less than what I want, then I dump the powder out of the case on to a digital scale, then I use a powder trickler to bring the powder measurement up to exactly what I want.

Powder Trickler | Large Powder Capacity| Frankford Arsenal | Frankford Arsenal

Powder Trickler

www.frankfordarsenal.com

I do this because the auto powder dump won't dump the exact amount each time. Sometimes it will but the next drop could be a CH over and the next drop could be CH under.

Thats why I use the auto dump set at 1grs less than what I want.

If you dont do it this way your accuracy will still be good but not as good between rounds.

I was planning on doing this. I saw a YouTube video where a guy suggested doing ten dumps to fine tune what the auto powder measure drops.

 

[Carlos Hathcock]

I use the auto drop for volume plinking ammo. RCBS Chargemaster lite for more accurate loads.