Hunting Rifle

[Cleck]

Looks great! You'll have to tell me how you like the sling and cheek rest, I'm looking to add those to mine too. Just put my scope on the other day; gonna have to do it again once I order the rings, but I wanted to make sure they'd fit w/ this height installed.

 

[MilesTeg]

Ok. No problem.

For every challenge there is a solution, sometimes a simple one.
I assume you have a seating die. If so you can use that die to make a relative measure based on the contact from the datum of the bullet.
The seating stem will provide similar functionality to the actual seating comparison system.

This is the typical problem when you cannot rely on bullet tip uniformity nor this is the best way to do this...

Every seating die has a stem...

Without the need to remove the stem from the die one can also measure the relative distance to the base of the case keeping the case holder
out of the equation.

This would give pretty consistent results when done wiht care. Take note of the given measures for every bullet you reload for and then
write it down. The die body doesn't do anything here other than the convenience of not having to take down the stem. Depending on ones
press and calipers one might have been able to fish up a round w/o taking the seating die from the press and measure the distance like above.
Once the bullet is pressed against the stem that is what is important. The same contact points on the bullet that the die uses to press the
bullet down when used with the die in the press.

If one day you get a COAL bushing system then you can take measures again and then compare to the measures from the precise same load so
now you have a difference you can use to substract (or add) to the measure given by the bushing so measures done this way can be used
in the future by translating them using that difference. Once you get a load that you want you might want to keep one as a template, including
a dummy to quickly setup dies and use for reference.

In the case above the redding die uses a flat stem and they are numbered. The above is a nr. 7 for this 6.5BR. If I used this hack I would also write
down the nr. of the redding stem for log keeping.

I hope this hack helps.

That is some Macgyver stuff right there. I like it and will use it until I get the proper tools.

If I do end up magazine limited for COAL should I use this technique or just measure to the tip of the bullet. Considering that what I would actually be worried about. Also if this does happen how much of a tolerance should I use to ensure it doesn't interfere?

 

[MilesTeg]

Looks great! You'll have to tell me how you like the sling and cheek rest, I'm looking to add those to mine too. Just put my scope on the other day; gonna have to do it again once I order the rings, but I wanted to make sure they'd fit w/ this height installed.

I can tell you right now the check rest is amazing. I already like it better than the blackhawk one I have on my bench rifle. The sling probably won't get much use until deer season.

 

[MilesTeg]

well you don't have to load to mag length you can feed them one at a time. There is another way to figuring out where the lands are in relationship to the Cartridge OAL (not the best way to measure but, hey you do what you have to). Take your seat die and screw the seat plug all the way out until it just seats the bullet into the neck of the brass. put it into your chamber and see of your bolt will close, adjust a few thousandths then repeat until the bolt closes with a little resistance.

Take a marker pen and color the bullet insert it into the chamber and close the bolt. take the bullet out and see if you have land marks on the colored bullet. Measure the OAL, seat it a few thousandths deeper, re color it and repeat until the lands no longer make marks in the color. eventually you will have a measurement to the lands and then can set the die seating depth accordingly (another 6 to 10 thousandths deeper).

For new brass I typically will just check it for headspace, load it and fire it. Usually factory brass is set to the minimum headspace and will be a few thousands short of the rifle's headspace measurement anyway.

This is traditionally how I have determined COAL. I have found it takes a long time and it leaves me second guessing myself.

 

[dsdmmat]

This is traditionally how I have determined COAL. I have found it takes a long time and it leaves me second guessing myself.

That is the same reason I picked up the hornady tool to do it. As we get older and wiser we tend to buy or make the tools we need to do it the right way.

 

[MilesTeg]

That is the same reason I picked up the hornady tool to do it. As we get older and wiser we tend to buy or make the tools we need to do it the right way.

I hear you my "problem" is that I'm just starting my family and career. So I have neither time or money. Lots of dreaming and research for when I do though.

 

[meketrefe]

That is some Macgyver stuff right there. I like it and will use it until I get the proper tools.

If I do end up magazine limited for COAL should I use this technique or just measure to the tip of the bullet. Considering that what I would actually be worried about. Also if this does happen how much of a tolerance should I use to ensure it doesn't interfere?

ha. I though macgyver could fix anything just with a paper clip?! lol
You can always measure from your seating die like explained above.
Forget about measuring from the tip no matter what end goal.
Just take note for every bullet and mark the stem if you have to change it.
What brand of dies are you using?

Also what I told you about keeping a round you like or a dummy/inert to the
same precise coal is a great way to keep to use as template.
When you want to come back all you have to do is set the die, then lower the
ram and while holding screw the stem until it touches. That is the starting point
to create a round with the same coal although might require a bit of adjusting
a few thousands after the first one due to tolerances to get to the precise same
COAL after seating. Measuring wiht the die will help you make sure you get the same
thing no matter what.
keep a good log book from reloads and shooting/testing.

 

[MilesTeg]

ha. I though macgyver could fix anything just with a paper clip?! lol
You can always measure from your seating die like explained above.
Forget about measuring from the tip no matter what end goal.
Just take note for every bullet and mark the stem if you have to change it.
What brand of dies are you using?

Also what I told you about keeping a round you like or a dummy/inert to the
same precise coal is a great way to keep to use as template.
When you want to come back all you have to do is set the die, then lower the
ram and while holding screw the stem until it touches. That is the starting point
to create a round with the same coal although might require a bit of adjusting
a few thousands after the first one due to tolerances to get to the precise same
COAL after seating. Measuring wiht the die will help you make sure you get the same
thing no matter what.
keep a good log book from reloads and shooting/testing.

I use RCBS dies I have yet venture out beyond them. I always keep a template bullet for this exact reason. I will have to check the one for bench rifle before changing the dies for the new rifle.

 

[meketrefe]

I use RCBS dies I have yet venture out beyond them. I always keep a template bullet for this exact reason. I will have to check the one for bench rifle before changing the dies for the new rifle.

miles what do you mean wiht changing the dies? RCBS are great dies. ...or maybe I didn't understand your words?

 

[MilesTeg]

miles what do you mean wiht changing the dies? RCBS are great dies. ...or maybe I didn't understand your words?

I figure I will have the change the seating die around for the different load for the hunting rifle. The sizing die will stay set at full length resize for the first round with this new brass. After I have fired rounds with this brass I will measure and only bump the shoulder back the minimal amount.

 

[meketrefe]

I figure I will have the change the seating die around for the different load for the hunting rifle. The sizing die will stay set at full length resize for the first round with this new brass. After I have fired rounds with this brass I will measure and only bump the shoulder back the minimal amount.

I see. yes you have to change the dies to sized the brass even if is not all the way to the bottom.
Adjusting the length of the seating die is not a huge deal and that is why you want more precise measuring methods like explained
and also dummy rounds for quick setup.

 

[Cleck]

What scope caps did you use/recommend? For the right price, do you recommend a sunshade? My new scope is threaded for one

 

[MilesTeg]

I just use butler creek's. I've never used a sun shade so I have no input there.

 

[GuyMontag]

Vortex Optics - Defender™ Flip Cap Eyepiece

These are damn nice, and well worth the coin.

 

[MilesTeg]

Vortex Optics - Defender™ Flip Cap Eyepiece

These are damn nice, and well worth the coin.

I like those I might try them out on the next rifle!

 

[meketrefe]

Lets do so CPR to this thread to talk about that "other" rifle for BIG GAME hunting.

A) The 338 lapua is a service round and at the same time is a very exclusive, versatile and super accurate round.
There is nothing cheap about it. One can produce loads a bit more cost efficient but then you have some of the best
long range and hunting loads you can smack anything walking this continent with.

If that is not exclusive enough then the 338 Norma magnum is perhaps a more elegant design. It almost matches
the lapua but a lot more efficiently with less powder. It is a beautiful cartrige. Again very exclusive and accurate.

B) The controlled feed mauser style extractor is present not just in the high dollar modern mausers but in several
domestic designs starting with the M70 but the one that really impressed me was the mausfield hybrid that brings
all the good things about the Remington 700 blueprint but with an amazing mauser control feed style bolt.
It doesn't get better than that.

At the same time one should look into having the top rail actually being part of the receiver (one piece) same
as the integral recoil lug. With this type of magnums it is better not to mickey mouse around and go for a
beefed up and proven robust platform. A bit more weight is going to make the shooting experience a lot better.
"light hunting rifle" and "super magnum" should not go together. I understand one wants to avoid a heavy rifle
but one will not shoot a caliber that is hard to master with a heavy rifle to be shooting it with a 5lbs rifle because
will put you into the shoulder surgery list in no time.
I had to give up on the 338 lapua because A) cost and B) I could not handle it. ..And I put all my time and devotion
to it but it is just too much to handle and because it is so fun it comes at a cost from all ends.
It is not worse than lets say a 375 RUM that is also a brutal round but with the 375 you will restrict yourself to
the bare minimum to assure good hunting. The 375 is actually somethign that can hunt anything walking the planet
including African big game legally where a 338 is not.

Show this to your brother.

True long range Elk and Moose medicine. For a large bull at long range or a large Bear if he ever goes for that,
then there are other calibers I will consider. You don't need a blaser but you need a good domestic rifle.
And the training, lots of it. That is where lots of dollars will go in terms of a good instructor and ammo/trigger time.

If nothing else enjoy the photography.