Still waiting for the rings to come back into stock. I'm also grabbing a set of check weights for my scale. I've kept putting them off for a while. Is there anything else I need to purchase to properly mount this scope?
Hunting Rifle
- Thread starter MilesTeg
- Start date
I've also decided to pick up a pad and sling from triad tactical. I'm having a hard time deciding what color would go well with this rifle. I know color doesn't matter but I would like it to look good. So what's everyone's input on the color I should grab. I'm also in the fence on internal vs. external loops. Please help me make a decision!
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Cleck
.308 Win
Maybe I missed it, but what color is the rifle, or what color will it be when you're done (if you end up painting it or something).
There's pictures on this thread but here are some additional internet ones.
B14 HUNTER
It has a speckled green stock. If you want some close ups google image "begera b14 hunter".
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
Are you going to do a vertical tracking with a laser boresighter or by shooting it, or both?
I assume you have a nice long mason level or a plumb.
If you could clamp down the barrel like 25 yards away from the target and both in strong stationary positions where they
would not budge at all, then with the boresighter one could run the entire range of the elevation axis relative to the bore.
I can do 20 yards in my basement where I have a vise in a workbench bolted to the ground so that gets me there.
In the wall in front I have painted a perfectly vertical and fine line with scales in both inches and cm. I use the math to verify
a certail level of tracking as well as the alignment between the mechanical axis and the bore.
I have seen people bolting a long ruler to the wall. I think the classic plumb ouside can move with some wind so a masons
laser plumb / level is a good way to resolve this. They are expensive so I would not buy one just for this but a quality traditional
level would do. the longest the better. I have one that is 4 ft. long that works great.
Cleck
.308 Win
Black sling, olive drab stock pack.
I'm still not following the procedure 100% meke. I have a plumb and a level so I have that covered. I don't have a boresighter so I'm open to suggestions on what to buy. I don't want to chince out on mounting now I've done all that other work but that card trick from the other thread is starting to look appealing. I'm sure once I understand what your talking about the light will go on and it will be no big deal.
hmm mixing colors I didn't think of that!
Cleck
.308 Win
Yeah, don't make it all monochrome. Look to see what colors work well off each other - green/black, green/brown, camo/green/black
Originally I was thinking green/green but now you have me thinking.
Cleck
.308 Win
My rifle is a blue/black kinda color (might actually just be black), but I'm definitely gonna look for grey/blue colors for things to add to it, if I don't end up giving it a custom color
Cleck
.308 Win
Maybe I'll just strip it and paint it brown/orange/green, like the leaves where we shoot.
If I didn't like the look of this stock so much I would have thought about having it dipped or custom paint job. I really like the look of the rifles and scopes that have been dipped the same. I hated Kryptic at first now I kind of want a gun in it.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
Looks are relative. Dipping is the worse way to go imo. I personally would leave it but if want other color you can bed it and should also take durakote or cerakote quite nicely.
Ya it's not happening with this rifle I like the stock way too much to do that.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
You can put on a rem700 factory stock and play with it to go hunting and leave the original for sundays and holidays.
I'll wait for the next 700 just don't the wife I'm already planning the next one.
Cleck
.308 Win
The parts came in yesterday and with the freeze I had time to put it all together today. I'm still amazed how little torque is used with the different screws for scope mounting. I'm use to working on large aircraft and now structural steel. 15 inch pounds is so small that I felt like I wasn't doing anything. The installation was pretty straight forward. I was surprised to see the ring instructions didn't call for locktite. I ended up using some anyways it just seemed silly not to. I did find myself chasing the proper eye relief. I felt like I couldn't get it just right. After I was done and got the check pad installed I was pretty damn close to perfect. It could have came back a hair but I couldn't come back any farther because the front bell of the scope would hit the scope base.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
A blue locktite is always a good idea. It also protects the screws from water/rust.
You could have move the front ring a tad forward right? More radius and on top of the receiver. Not critical though.
It is looking nice. The main thing is how it feels to you. it must to be so comfortable you want to sleep on it. LOL
You could have move the front ring a tad forward right? More radius and on top of the receiver. Not critical though.
It is looking nice. The main thing is how it feels to you. it must to be so comfortable you want to sleep on it. LOL
It definitely feels and fits better. I really can't wait to start some load development on it now. I realized I forgot to order the tool to properly measure COAL so I'll probably go old school with it and just use calibers.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
I believe you are referring to the gauge to measure the COAL mean value.
If so you can improvise and make one for free.
Do you have bits and a drill press?
No press which is part of my problem. Hopefully at the new house I can have a proper workshop.
Are you talking about the tool to measure to the ogive? Hornady OAL Gauge and Comparator within AccurateShooter.com
Correct I was going to get the one for the cases and bullet measurement. I was going to only us the bullet one first considering I'm starting with new brass that isn't fire formed.
My guess using the bullets I'm using I will probably be limited by the magazine always.
I'm hoping to get the brass prep done today. What does everyone do with new brass? It's been a long time since I have new brass I seem to be doing more once fired or old brass lately. My thoughts are to full length size then trim so everything is uniform. I do have a flashing deburrer for this caliber so I will probably use that.
I will probably try to load up some other 308's for my bench rifle before I change the dies around.
My guess using the bullets I'm using I will probably be limited by the magazine always.
I'm hoping to get the brass prep done today. What does everyone do with new brass? It's been a long time since I have new brass I seem to be doing more once fired or old brass lately. My thoughts are to full length size then trim so everything is uniform. I do have a flashing deburrer for this caliber so I will probably use that.
I will probably try to load up some other 308's for my bench rifle before I change the dies around.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
hi, what do you mean with legal reasons?
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
Ok. No problem.
For every challenge there is a solution, sometimes a simple one.
I assume you have a seating die. If so you can use that die to make a relative measure based on the contact from the datum of the bullet.
The seating stem will provide similar functionality to the actual seating comparison system.
This is the typical problem when you cannot rely on bullet tip uniformity nor this is the best way to do this...
Every seating die has a stem...
Without the need to remove the stem from the die one can also measure the relative distance to the base of the case keeping the case holder
out of the equation.
This would give pretty consistent results when done wiht care. Take note of the given measures for every bullet you reload for and then
write it down. The die body doesn't do anything here other than the convenience of not having to take down the stem. Depending on ones
press and calipers one might have been able to fish up a round w/o taking the seating die from the press and measure the distance like above.
Once the bullet is pressed against the stem that is what is important. The same contact points on the bullet that the die uses to press the
bullet down when used with the die in the press.
If one day you get a COAL bushing system then you can take measures again and then compare to the measures from the precise same load so
now you have a difference you can use to substract (or add) to the measure given by the bushing so measures done this way can be used
in the future by translating them using that difference. Once you get a load that you want you might want to keep one as a template, including
a dummy to quickly setup dies and use for reference.
In the case above the redding die uses a flat stem and they are numbered. The above is a nr. 7 for this 6.5BR. If I used this hack I would also write
down the nr. of the redding stem for log keeping.
I hope this hack helps.
well you don't have to load to mag length you can feed them one at a time. There is another way to figuring out where the lands are in relationship to the Cartridge OAL (not the best way to measure but, hey you do what you have to). Take your seat die and screw the seat plug all the way out until it just seats the bullet into the neck of the brass. put it into your chamber and see of your bolt will close, adjust a few thousandths then repeat until the bolt closes with a little resistance.
Take a marker pen and color the bullet insert it into the chamber and close the bolt. take the bullet out and see if you have land marks on the colored bullet. Measure the OAL, seat it a few thousandths deeper, re color it and repeat until the lands no longer make marks in the color. eventually you will have a measurement to the lands and then can set the die seating depth accordingly (another 6 to 10 thousandths deeper).
For new brass I typically will just check it for headspace, load it and fire it. Usually factory brass is set to the minimum headspace and will be a few thousands short of the rifle's headspace measurement anyway.
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meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
The first method is hard to do w/o a controlled feed rifle. with the typical push feed is hard to get a feeling with the ejector plunger
putting substantial pressure on the round specially after it engages the extractor.
I think a good way of doing it is by seating a bullet in a case that has been neck sized only about 1/8" or so there is enough pressure to
hold the bullet but also to let the bullet get seated and pulled by hand.
So by leaving the bullet out substantially one can put the round and simply press it untils it hits the shoulder all the way and in the process
the lands will push the bullet inside the case. But there is still enough tension that when we pull the round out the case will bring the bullet
w/o disruption. This is your absolute max coal for the given bullet. Then it is a matter of measuring and backing out 20 or 30 thousands
to start with. If the magazine is not long enough then back out more as there might be several loads even with a longer jump of the bullet
can be pretty accurate. Starting pressure of the cartrige is something more important than the jump as soon as the bullets are not VLD that
are more sensitive jumping.
VLD hybrid are already a lot more forgiving to jump as proven by the new line of bullets released by Berger as alternative to the classic VLD
with a secant type of ogive.
Another alternative to find COAL is to seat a bullet really long and put it in the chamber until it stops but do not push the round any further.
Then from the muzzle end come with the cleaning rod w/o anything attached and then fish the tip of the bullet into the cleaning rod.
But holding the rod with one hand and the tip of the finger of the other we can move back and forth and feel where the bullet stops.
Might put a mark or a brass or collard bushing on the rod to mark that stop point.
Then it is a matter of start seating the bullet a few thousands at the time until we feel that contact gone. Max coal is between that last
point where we felt contact and the last seating depth thus the need to go slow.
This last COAL will be a great starting point for a load close to touching the lands.
Also there is not need to buy the gauge system. If someone has a tap one can drill and tap the back of a case and then get a long bolt
and nut for that to do the same thing the system like hornady is doing but for pennies.
I guess check what long and thin long bolts they have at the ACE hardware store and then one can make the threads to match.
This is so inexpensive one might leave the bolt in the case for future bullets. I would also used a fired case that is too old perhaps
scrap anyway and put just enough neck sizing so the bullet is not seated so strongly that we could potentially pull it out by hand
if needed.
Same concept as above though.
I hope this helps.
putting substantial pressure on the round specially after it engages the extractor.
I think a good way of doing it is by seating a bullet in a case that has been neck sized only about 1/8" or so there is enough pressure to
hold the bullet but also to let the bullet get seated and pulled by hand.
So by leaving the bullet out substantially one can put the round and simply press it untils it hits the shoulder all the way and in the process
the lands will push the bullet inside the case. But there is still enough tension that when we pull the round out the case will bring the bullet
w/o disruption. This is your absolute max coal for the given bullet. Then it is a matter of measuring and backing out 20 or 30 thousands
to start with. If the magazine is not long enough then back out more as there might be several loads even with a longer jump of the bullet
can be pretty accurate. Starting pressure of the cartrige is something more important than the jump as soon as the bullets are not VLD that
are more sensitive jumping.
VLD hybrid are already a lot more forgiving to jump as proven by the new line of bullets released by Berger as alternative to the classic VLD
with a secant type of ogive.
Another alternative to find COAL is to seat a bullet really long and put it in the chamber until it stops but do not push the round any further.
Then from the muzzle end come with the cleaning rod w/o anything attached and then fish the tip of the bullet into the cleaning rod.
But holding the rod with one hand and the tip of the finger of the other we can move back and forth and feel where the bullet stops.
Might put a mark or a brass or collard bushing on the rod to mark that stop point.
Then it is a matter of start seating the bullet a few thousands at the time until we feel that contact gone. Max coal is between that last
point where we felt contact and the last seating depth thus the need to go slow.
This last COAL will be a great starting point for a load close to touching the lands.
Also there is not need to buy the gauge system. If someone has a tap one can drill and tap the back of a case and then get a long bolt
and nut for that to do the same thing the system like hornady is doing but for pennies.
I guess check what long and thin long bolts they have at the ACE hardware store and then one can make the threads to match.
This is so inexpensive one might leave the bolt in the case for future bullets. I would also used a fired case that is too old perhaps
scrap anyway and put just enough neck sizing so the bullet is not seated so strongly that we could potentially pull it out by hand
if needed.
Same concept as above though.
I hope this helps.