Thanks man..
Now I want a 1301 lol!!
Hahahhahaha I know the feeling way to well.. and I hate scattergats
Thanks man..
Now I want a 1301 lol!!
For proper usage, you can look up videos and they kind of give you an idea of what to expect but your best bet is to get some actual training in low-light classes. @OnSight Firearms Training is hosting a course for that coming up on Friday July 15th, 2022 located at Hudson Valley Shooting sports. https://oftllc.us/event/defensive-pistol-low-light-techniques/Amazing timing. I just finished putting together my new Glock 23 and think I want a light for it. Knowing nothing about weapon lights, I have a couple questions.
1) Is there an online resource (videos and/or articles) you guys like and can recommend me to learn about the proper tactical usage of a WML? Is it for blinding an adversary, an aiming tool, purely for ID, etc.?
2) What do holsters for weapons with lights retain on, since on bare guns it's usually the trigger guard? Also, any recommendations for holsters for a pistol with a WML?
@Edwardteach72 @Will556 where does the Streamlight ProTac fall? Garbage? Midrange?
Lmao, no not the 1000 lumen sadly. I got the 350 lumen fml, haha.The HLX? 1,000 lumen..... G2G
The way I look at it is its the best bang for your buck to get, it's budget price (you can get the whole package for sometimes as low as $99)
With that said you now have a light that from all my anecdotal evidence has been extremely rugged, I've heard of some flickering under recoil, but I also know people that have them and run them hard and zero issues. Hell I know Ben from @OnSight Firearms Training has HLXs and he hasn't killed one so that's saying something for sure.
I will say from looking around the one real weak link to the whole kit, is the pressure pad. But this is just a minor inconvenience because there are solutions..
1) tape that bish to your tail and call it a day.
2) Cloud Defensive (spoiler this company will probably be a theme in this thread) makes an upgraded pressure pad mount that is rock solid
3) Arisaka makes an adapter so you can run surefire plugs and any pressure pad or button that is for a surefire.
I would also probably upgrade the factory mount to any of the bazillion options on the market because Streamlight like many others was smart and the HLX uses the Surefire Scout style mounts
All great options and not a large investment and can be upgraded as you want or need.. this means you can get a really decent light with pretty good (better than surefire) Output for very little money, and then there are options to upgrade as you see the need or want. Instead of having to make a very large purchase all at once
Lmao, no not the 1000 lumen sadly. I got the 350 lumen fml, haha.
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I'm gonna assume the 350 is still a decent light. It's a Streamlight. What is killing me now, is the 1000 lumen one isn't all that much more than what I bought. I'm thinking an upgrade is coming.Having some light (from a quality light) is better than no light
I'm gonna assume the 350 is still a decent light. It's a Streamlight. What is killing me now, is the 1000 lumen one isn't all that much more than what I bought. I'm thinking an upgrade is coming.
I usually say to people that the price difference between the Protac Rail Mount 1 or Rail Mount 2’s to the HLX is negligible, they might as well get the HLX to begin with. It’s barely more expensive but you get a better performing light. I use the HLX as a baseline of a long gun wml. Streamlight is a good company and the HLX gets you a light that’s very usable and performs well, especially for the price. Like mentioned before, there are slight possible downsides to it which some people have had issues with of slight flickering, and the durability of the pressure switch. Since there is an adapter by Arisaka that allows the end user to run Surefire pressure switches that alleviates that issue. My main problem with that is final cost. By the time you’re done buying an HLX Rail Mount, buying the Arisaka adapter, then still buying a Surefire pressure switch, you’d be pretty close to the cost of purchasing a Cloud Defensive REIN to begin with. Then you would have a better performing light that is undoubtedly more rugged, outperforms the HLX, and pretty much everything else out on the market. With all that said I have had the handheld version of the HLX for years and it still gets the job done when I use it.I'm gonna assume the 350 is still a decent light. It's a Streamlight. What is killing me now, is the 1000 lumen one isn't all that much more than what I bought. I'm thinking an upgrade is coming.
Currently I am running a Surefire X300 on one pistol, Modlite on another and a handheld Modlite.The HLX? 1,000 lumen..... G2G
The way I look at it is its the best bang for your buck to get, it's budget price (you can get the whole package for sometimes as low as $99)
With that said you now have a light that from all my anecdotal evidence has been extremely rugged, I've heard of some flickering under recoil, but I also know people that have them and run them hard and zero issues. Hell I know Ben from @OnSight Firearms Training has HLXs and he hasn't killed one so that's saying something for sure.
I will say from looking around the one real weak link to the whole kit, is the pressure pad. But this is just a minor inconvenience because there are solutions..
1) tape that bish to your tail and call it a day.
2) Cloud Defensive (spoiler this company will probably be a theme in this thread) makes an upgraded pressure pad mount that is rock solid
3) Arisaka makes an adapter so you can run surefire plugs and any pressure pad or button that is for a surefire.
I would also probably upgrade the factory mount to any of the bazillion options on the market because Streamlight like many others was smart and the HLX uses the Surefire Scout style mounts
All great options and not a large investment and can be upgraded as you want or need.. this means you can get a really decent light with pretty good (better than surefire) Output for very little money, and then there are options to upgrade as you see the need or want. Instead of having to make a very large purchase all at once
So what you could do is change the forend on it. Agency Arms sells handguards that fit the M2 and in the product description it states that “Modular Mlok rail for the Benelli M2 Some fitting may be required for Performance models and M1 Super 90 models”. So if I were you I would call or email Agency Arms and speak with someone about having one of their handguards fit your M1. They obviously do work because they have a section on their site where you can have Agency upgrade your M1 completely, and part of the upgrades is adding one of the handguards…the only handguards they have that they would use on the M1’s are their M2 handguards. So they obviously are able to make it work.Interesting thread.
Can’t really find an old Surefire 617 (Benelli M1 series forearm grip.) and from reading don’t know if folks were to thrilled with them. My question is, if there is a good flashlight mounting system option for the Benelli M1S90? Reason I looked for a dinosaur Surefire 617 is, that it’s a forearm mount and dedicated to that application I don’t like clamps and stuff scratching into the barrel or mag tube. This case being an old 1989 H&K import (NIB)
Any options or upgrades or maybe bring it into this century? Or maybe just keep searching for that Surefire 617?
LEP (Laser Excited Phosphor) tech is interesting, definitely extremely focused high candela lights and definitely geared towards long range work. I’ve heard from Danny Zhang (Weltool) and he has confirmed that the Atibal Ai-1 lights are in fact just slightly athletically changed heads that they are contracted to manufacture for Atibal. They are the exact same as the Weltool LH3 heads. So if you’re looking at picking up another head for another 18350/18650 body, you can buy a Weltool LH3 head and get the exact same performance for less money.Currently I am running a Surefire X300 on one pistol, Modlite on another and a handheld Modlite.
Rifles have Surefire Scouts (1500 Lumens) and my DMR has an Atiball on it. If you have not seen Atiball.....
The 30S is one of those almost in between sizes with how the designed the frame. They call it a “Sub-Compact” but it’s really not. The slide is almost the same length as a Glock 19. The rail slot on the frame is all the way at the very front edge. I don’t personally own a Glock 30S but from what I’ve seen some have said they can get a Streamlight TLR-1 HL, or an Surefire X300U but it requires pushing the tan from the front with a screwdriver to bend the tan into the rail slot (which I’m not a fan of forcing a piece of gear to fit if it really doesn’t). Also with those two larger options the front edge of the mounting body still overhangs a bit which I don’t like much either. So it seems like you are kind stuck with the Streamlight TLR-7 or Streamlight TLR-7 Sub. I prefer lights that perform better than those but sometimes you have to work with what you got.A lot of good info here. I have one question. Any light/mount combo suggestions for a Glock 30s? An aside to that is what to use for a concealed holster. I carry it in a Galco Jackass rig now, but i do not see that as being light compatible.
Any input would be appreciated.
A lot of good info here. I have one question. Any light/mount combo suggestions for a Glock 30s? An aside to that is what to use for a concealed holster. I carry it in a Galco Jackass rig now, but i do not see that as being light compatible.
Any input would be appreciated.
T. Rex arms just sold 40 Acro P2’s in less than 1 minute……
And Euro optic are getting 50 to 75 P2’s a month and they have 230 on back order. Holy shit.
Just don't run it behind a 16" 308 with a muzzle break.@Edwardteach72 @Will556 where does the Streamlight ProTac fall? Garbage? Midrange?
The TLR 8 is an LED version of the 7?The 30S is one of those almost in between sizes with how the designed the frame. They call it a “Sub-Compact” but it’s really not. The slide is almost the same length as a Glock 19. The rail slot on the frame is all the way at the very front edge. I don’t personally own a Glock 30S but from what I’ve seen some have said they can get a Streamlight TLR-1 HL, or an Surefire X300U but it requires pushing the tan from the front with a screwdriver to bend the tan into the rail slot (which I’m not a fan of forcing a piece of gear to fit if it really doesn’t). Also with those two larger options the front edge of the mounting body still overhangs a bit which I don’t like much either. So it seems like you are kind stuck with the Streamlight TLR-7 or Streamlight TLR-7 Sub. I prefer lights that perform better than those but sometimes you have to work with what you got.
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As for holsters most people don’t carry in over shoulder rigs anymore since they’re outdated and gone are the days of 90’s cop shows. They’re definitely slower to draw from, you always need a cover garment to conceal it, technically muzzling anyone that stands behind you (though that is kind of a training issue). Most holsters nowadays are all mounted to the belt, be it duty holsters, 4o’clock carry, or appendix. You also have to choose between OWB (Outside the WaistBand) vs IWB (Inside the WaistBand), but it mainly should be IWB. OWB does not conceal very well at all, people stick out like sore thumbs when they mount holsters and guns on themselves that go on the outside of their silhouette, especially on warmer or even hot days when they have less garments to aid in concealing. I myself prefer appendix carry and I use a Tier 1 Axis Elite. There are companies out there that make quality holsters like Tier 1, LAS Concealment, Tenicor, Phlster, Dark Star Gear…to name a few.