Depick
.308 Win
Need some advice I’ve been researching building an upper and almost every source has a different tool list. I’d love some input from you guys on what was an absolute necessity for your builds and what I can do without.
Must have tools for upper build
- Thread starter Depick
- Start date
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
tool list? like what?
you need a barrel wrench but you might do with an adjustable spanner wrench.
everything else is regular tools like a small $2 small punch from the hardware store or otherwise a framing nail.
I mean if you don't have even a screw driver at home that is one thing but most people have everything they need.
What tools are people recommending and why? If someone cannot tell you why, it is probably Snake Oil.
Having a vise is not needed but recommended not just for this but for many other house projects.
you need a barrel wrench but you might do with an adjustable spanner wrench.
everything else is regular tools like a small $2 small punch from the hardware store or otherwise a framing nail.
I mean if you don't have even a screw driver at home that is one thing but most people have everything they need.
What tools are people recommending and why? If someone cannot tell you why, it is probably Snake Oil.
Having a vise is not needed but recommended not just for this but for many other house projects.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
.... Sometimes I have trued a receiver for match uppers but do not buy the stupid truing tool because you don't need it.
- Forward assist - Roll pin punch(es), small hammer
- Dust cover - needle nose pliers
- Barrel/barrel nut- vise, upper receiver block or upper receiver rod (to protect upper in vise and hold steady while you tighten barrel nut), aeroshell grease for threads, barrel nut wrench (some are proprietary and come with the hand guard otherwise an adjustable should do). A torque wrench is best practice but you can go without it.
- Hand guard - screw driver or more likely hex wrenches to attach it
- Muzzle device - adjustable wrench, and figure how you want to make it permanent (pin and weld, loctite, jb weld, etc)
BDinPutnam
.475 A&M Magnum
Credit card.
Depick
.308 Win
Probably should’ve been a little more descriptive. But some articles recommend a
Vise block that fits inside the upper itself and others say the one that clamps onto the outside of the receiver is better. And I’ve seen another that locks into the feed ramps
Ive got a vise so I’m good in that regard but I’ve seen a few videos that state padded vise jaws are a must. Seems redundant with either vise block.
A few things that threw me off were the front sight base tool and snap ring pliers. I was planning on a free float hand guard and low profile gas block so I’m pretty sure I don’t need those but I’m not 100% on that.
And as far as a torque wrench goes can I get away with a harbor freight model or are we talking extreme precision.
Ive got the tools for a lower roll pin holders, punches, castle nut wrench and a variety of hand tools.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
- Forward assist - Roll pin punch(es), small hammer.........Most small punches will do or you can use a small nail and a series of tools to place it.
- Dust cover - needle nose pliers............ Not needed
- Barrel/barrel nut- ......vise is perfect but one can use two strong clamps, Two pieces of 2x4 with a small channel cut, better than the plastic sometimes. Do not need the UR block. having the two pieces of wood and the block sideways on the vise is a much better and stronger solution. Automotive grease or antiseize will do a great job to prevent galling. No need to do torque wrench once you get to a firm grip thightening with a 2" arm on any tool that is more than plenty and you have to stop where the indexing is dead on anyway.
- Hand guard - screw driver or more likely hex wrenches to attach it...... Something someone should already have around the house .
- Muzzle device - adjustable wrench, and figure how you want to make it permanent (pin and weld, loctite, jb weld, etc)..........No need for new or adjustable wrenches. the device will dictate what wrench and in a household/automotive set should have something one can use. For permanent devices the best way is a blind pin in the join of the barrel (never on the threads) and that's it. A small drill with a 1/8 cobalt bit and the pin can be a roll pin from ACE hardware. Stag and RRA has been selling NYS compliant rifles like that in NYS for years.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
We will be as specific as you want.
The vise block is not needed and total waste of dollars.
The strongest way is to clamp it on its side with two small pieces of wood for both protection and clear the pivot holes.
The piece yo are going going to put on one side is going to be thicker than the length of the pivot pieces and fit between
them so you can clamp the receiver against the other side that is the rail with the other wood block on the other side.
This is not theory but a well proven method used hundreds of times. I can send you a picture if you want.
The torque wrench is not needed if you have a good torque because you have to stop at the indexing point. At the time it gets too hard and
if you are not able to index with the gas tube then it is time to back out and tighten again and if that doesn't do it then either shave the
mouth on the lathe or use a couple of shims. Almost never you will be able to put exactly what the torque value is and there is not exact torque value because it will also depend on what type of nut you are using.
I just built one. I have a punch kit that I used. I used a small brass hammer, needle nose pliers, and a long screw driver to put on the muzzle brake. That is all I used.
Depick
.308 Win
Depick
.308 Win
I’ve
I used their build series for 1st my lower awhile back.
That’s funny you mentioned ITS tactical
I used their build series for 1st my lower awhile back.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
Exactly that puts lateral force that makes the whole unit very stable unlike the useless and expensive upper part mount that
does nothing to counter torque forces.
you saved me from making a new picture and keep going please.
Depick
.308 Win
Now I’m definitely overthinking this
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
Many people do. Those salesman like to eat stake with lobster with our money.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
But you have big teeth. lol
I really over thought it. I must have asked this forum's members about 100 questions prior to doing my build. All for next to nothing. I watched video after video after video. Took about 25 minutes
Attachments
I'm a gadget guy - plenty of sales guys eating steak thanks to me.
I am way to cheap to be a gadget guy.
technicalgadget
.223 Rem
If you work on barrels a lot, especially torquing them off an upper receiver, I prefer the feed ramp extension rods. These are from Geiselle and Brownell’s.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
Don't really need them. Will never put anywhere near the torque that will compromise anything or one should have any problems.
I tightened my barrel tight. How tight? Not sure, it ain't popping loose though.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
I'm a gadget guy - plenty of sales guys eating steak thanks to me.
Gadgets are good but lets get the userfull ones not the ones that are a total waste.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
Some people open beer bottles with their teeth. Doesn't mean it's the best way.
BDinPutnam
.475 A&M Magnum
Looks good.
Your reflexes much be far better than mine- how do you dodge the bolt when you fire?
Looks good.
Your reflexes much be far better than mine- how do you dodge the bolt when you fire?
Now that was freaken funny! It is not, as you can see, complete.
My stock assy, finally shipped today.
technicalgadget
.223 Rem
Mil spec steel barrel nut calls for between 30 - 80 ft lbs. Just don’t go over 80 and I think it will be fine.
Depick
.308 Win
Well I’m gonna start putting together a build list. Any one use a barrel with an integral muzzle device? A little pricey but seems like a good solution for a permanently attached device.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
I prefer to have the upper in a vise for torquing the barrel. Especially if you are doing a build with a delta ring. You need the vise to hold the upper assembly while you pull the delta ring back like foreskin to expose the pointy parts of the barrel nut. Maybe it's just my crappy wrench, but it can sometimes be a pain to get good contact between the wrench and the teeth of the barrel nut. You can push the delta ring back with the wrench, but I just find it easier to pull it back with my free hand.
If you are going with a free float handguard, it may have a proprietary barrel nut, which will require a different tool (s) (crows foot) than your standard armorers wrench.
So a vise and then a vise block (homemade or bought) to protect the upper and lock it in the vise well.
A torque wrench is handy but as stated, not necessary. A breaker bar is useful for disassembly though.
Something to use as a punch.
A hammer.
Needle nose pliers help with the little E clip that goes on the dust cover pin.
If you get an armorers wrench it will have built into it other tools you may need, such as a spanner wrench for the receiver extension castle nut on the lower, a notch for muzzle devices and maybe one or two places to attach to a breaker bar or torque wrench.
Having a mallet is also handy for stubborn gas blocks.