Muzzle brake question

[Tonyskyline]

Hello all, new here. Question that i can't seem to get a straight answer on. Is it legal in (upstate) NY to have a muzzle brake on a bolt action rifle? How about a threaded barrel? I am looking at building a custom 7mm rem or 7mm saum off a tikka action with a carbon barrel and would like a muzzle brake if legal. Any answers?

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[MilesTeg]

Yup good to go unless they pass a new law.

 

[Tonyskyline]

Really? How come more people don't use them for hunting here?
This may just be legal then.. pictured is similar to what im picturing to do but hoping for less than 4 grand.

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[ECU Pirates]

Really? How come more people don't use them for hunting here?
This may just be legal then.. pictured is similar to what im picturing to do but hoping for less than 4 grand.

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because many value their hearing more than reducing recoil for one shot.

 

[Bustedknees]

I have a few.. 223, 308, 30-06, and on a 450. they're all ear drum busters.. ear protection is a must..

 

[Bustedknees]

my neighbors love this one..

 

[togmaster]

Bolt action GTG.

 

[Tonyskyline]

What is the main purpose of having one? I see them on a ton of western rifles and long range precision rifles

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[meketrefe]

no problems with compliance. Also I suggest you look for a 3/4x24 thread a short and light brake like
single or double wide baffle. Those on average will mess up less with accuracy nodes and recoil reduction
is the same as large and heavy brakes that do nothing for you other than introduce other problems.
More, shorter baffles serve no purpose.

I wrote a white paper years ago after testing dozens of designs.

 

[Tonyskyline]

Ive been looking at the precision armanent m-11. Anyone know if that is decent?

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[Upstate43]

What is the main purpose of having one? I see them on a ton of western rifles and long range precision rifles

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Reduces recoil.

Some of the hunters out west prefer them if they're using a magnum, or otherwise recoil-heavy cartridge.

For most hunters, it's probably an overkill since they're looking at 1, maybe 2-3 shots total. They make a lot more sense on a target or competition rifle. I can attest that the difference in recoil between a muzzle-brake .308 and a non-muzzle brake is night and day.

 

[meketrefe]

Ive been looking at the precision armanent m-11. Anyone know if that is decent?

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Brands mean nothing. you have well known brands that have horrible brakes and small brands
or gunsmiths that cut one effective brake at a great price.

A brake is a very simple piece. There is no much science to it. The directives are the same as stablished by
army studies over 100 years ago. So one can skip all the tacticool mambo jambo.

I suggested the 3/4 threads because of the additional meat around the muzzle and since there is no way
to stress relief a barrel after is cut that is a good thing specially for something that might be submitted
to extreme heat.

I also think that the first (perhaps only) baffle if that is flush with the crown this allows for easy cleaning
of debris w/o the need to remove the brake nor risk to damage the crown.

I wold say get the lightest, shortest possible brake with one or two wide baffles. Same style as used by military
snipers and such. No need for heavy or long brakes or more complications. No need to spend a lot neither.

What I don't know is what the assortment is for 3/4 threads that is not as popuplar as the 5/8 threads or
the absurd 1/2 threads that shoudl have never existed other than perhaps 20 or 17 calibers that do not need brakes
anyway. not many barrels end with less than 5/8s anyway. One of those stupid engineering decissions like most
of the 223 AR barrels with 1/2 threads and carbine ports. So absurd.

 

[Tonyskyline]

So I have never felt heavy recoil on my 7mm rem mag TC venture for NY deer hunting. Then again, i only shoot it a few times a year to make sure it is sighted in and a few shots to kill a couple deer every season. I am looking to do a much lighter tikka build for mountain hunting elk out west chambered in 7mm rem mag so the recoil may get more noticeable. Also would consider one for a long range target rifle- looking to upgrade my savage 10 .308 to something better based off a chasis system. Sounds like these 2 rifles anyways or someday getting a .300 win or bigger may benefit from a brake. Doubt ill need it for anything else. Does it really mess up your ears? I would find it annoying to wear ear protection while hunting and trying to listen to movement, what do people use for that? I know at the range what id use but in the woods maybe those walker game ears or whatever they are called?

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[Podmonkey]

because many value their hearing more than reducing recoil for one shot.

I have a few.. 223, 308, 30-06, and on a 450. they're all ear drum busters.. ear protection is a must..

Depends on the design. Some breaks direct the blast away from the shooter. The factory brake on my Galil sends it out and back but away from me. I feel none of the blast and the bang doesn't sound any louder than a bare muzzle to me.
Yet some will send it back to the shooter.
I think brakes are very worthwhile for the heavier magnum cartridges which can be downright unpleasant to shoot otherwise.

 

[meketrefe]

Badger mini FTE indexes with a single screw. no need for washers.

Mini FTE Muzzle Brake - Clamp Style (.30 caliber | 5/8-24)


A simple design at a more realistic cost.

SLR SR30 308/7.62/300BLK Single Port Mini Muzzle Brake w/Crush Washer 5/8-24 TPI | eBay

 

[meketrefe]

So I have never felt heavy recoil on my 7mm rem mag TC venture for NY deer hunting. Then again, i only shoot it a few times a year to make sure it is sighted in and a few shots to kill a couple deer every season. I am looking to do a much lighter tikka build for mountain hunting elk out west chambered in 7mm rem mag so the recoil may get more noticeable. Also would consider one for a long range target rifle- looking to upgrade my savage 10 .308 to something better based off a chasis system. Sounds like these 2 rifles anyways or someday getting a .300 win or bigger may benefit from a brake. Doubt ill need it for anything else. Does it really mess up your ears? I would find it annoying to wear ear protection while hunting and trying to listen to movement, what do people use for that? I know at the range what id use but in the woods maybe those walker game ears or whatever they are called?

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For ocasional hunting you do not need a brake. It is more important that you have a rifle well fitted and a soft pad if you want so the perceived recoil
is more managable. The recoil os also related to the grain of bullet so if you go wtih 180gr with teh remmag in a light rifle, yes you are going to feel it
but will not be near as unconfortable as a 230gr in a winmag.

I have a suppressor in the win-mag and heavy rifle because otherwise it will beat you like an old rug as it is a long range gun = long heavy bullets.

At the same time a small sleeve or a small brake will also work as a way to protect the the muzzle in the rocks and brush.

In terms of ear protection today you have electronics that allow you to hear what you want to hear even better than without them and to
suppress unwanted noise. The best advice is to always protect your eyes and ears.
you also have ducted ear pieces that w/o batteries suppress noise very well while they let you hear your surroundings.
like the glasses and other equipment it all depends on how you hunt.

It is up to you. personally I would have no problems on threading a remmag (mine is not) but if I do it, it would be under the above
directives. And will probably do not spend much.

What chassis are you looking at for the savage 10? I suggest the opportunity for a wide recoil lug and then you can thread it and tap it
at the bottom. It is not so much that it is an extra anchoring point if you bed it but taking note of the torque you can tune
the harmonics this way. With a good bedding job is a well known formula. I would not let anything ahead of the tenon touch the bedding unless it was for a rail / BR gun.

 

[Tonyskyline]

How do these install? Does a legit gunsmith have to do this?

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[meketrefe]

How do these install? Does a legit gunsmith have to do this?

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These you mean the brakes, chasis, what? If your barrel is not threaded you need to thread it. A machinist can do that.
nothing here is related to firearms fabrication. it is all simple threading adn simple parts.

The most important thing is that things are well indexed and possibly some custom fitting if possible but no need for a machinist
if you buy the barrel already threaded. I mean a machinist can do custom things vs. the stock parts that can only be installed
and tuned as they permit but no much more possible w/o a lathe or mill.

 

[meketrefe]

I like to fit my guns to my body and liking, both function and ergonomics. Sort of like going to the tailor.
I might start with a bullet and everything else, including the casing, action, barrel, stock, ergonomics, glass, etc.. might be there for a specific reason.

 

[Upstate43]

How do these install? Does a legit gunsmith have to do this?

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As others have said, if you're looking to install a standard-sized muzzle brake onto a rifle with a threaded barrel...there's not much to it.

If you want to have your non-threaded barrel threaded and a custom muzzle brake installed, a gunsmith would be the way to go.

I don't know where you live, but there are gunsmiths throughout NY who can do that sort of job.

Honestly, for hunting maybe a few times per year, it's not really warranted. The muzzle blast will be a lot louder, so ear pro will be highly recommended if you go that route. For the fellows who use magnum calibers to take long range shots, it probably makes more sense, since lower recoil usually = better shot consistency.

 

[meketrefe]

There are muzzle brakes that do not require threading but will need a clamping system or crossed set screw and ideally a slot.
This is another way to do it but most times are custom jobs.