Smith & Wesson never fails..........to disappoint

[FP1201]

When I swapped the boot grips that came installed for the Houge grip I didn't observe any grease or debris. The fun was coated with thick oil as one would expect. As is my custom with new guns I hit tge whole piece with Hoppes and wiped every thing down then re-applied a thin coat of CLP, ballistol in this case.
I didn't notice tge strain screw not being very familiar with revolvers however I will check it once I get it back from S&W.
I did notice that the double action pull was pretty light and I remember thinking that tge hammer went forward without a ton of force behind it when I dry fired it. I dry fire guns, especially new ones, A LOT!
The thing that I don't quite understand is that with the .38s tge primer had only tge shallowest little nicks in the primer but the 357s had a pronounced divot to the point that I would have thought they should have went off. Well 5 of the 7 eventually did.
The .38s were MagTech, I assume that Brazilian primers are as hard as European ones. The 357s were Remington HTP SJHPs. I know domestic ammo typically has softer primers.
I told the shop that if this gun doses bot reliably fire ALL ammo WITHOUT moon clips I will want a full refund on it, I will then purchase a Python instead.
I sincerely hope that the L-Comp gets properly sorted however as that model rather tickles my fancy. I really wish S&W would get their act together, I find so many of their products appealing but I have lost confidence in the company.

The schmutz I'm concerned with would be inside: I don't recommend removing the side plate unless you know or are prepared to learn the hard way...taking the grip off and spraying up inside with carb/brake cleaner to flush the inside. just keep it away from the grips and off the sights.

Different Brands and even within those brands are "hard" and "Soft" Primers: Lee Reloading would warn against using Federal because they were soft and could go off using their feeding system. As far as the Rim thickness and diameter there shouldn't be more than a thousandths variance in any of them...they've made bazillions of them.

 

[Podmonkey]

Different Brands and even within those brands are "hard" and "Soft" Primers: Lee Reloading would warn against using Federal because they were soft and could go off using their feeding system. As far as the Rim thickness and diameter there shouldn't be more than a thousandths variance in any of them...they've made bazillions of them.

Yes but in comparison to American ammo European ammo on the whole has harder primers. I'm hoping such is also the case the the Brazilian MagTech and when my revolver comes back it will reliably shoot em all off.
I'm becoming increasingly irritated over this whole affair. Which isn't helping with my increasing irritation with things in general.

 

[kev74]

The arrow is pointing at the strain screw. It pushes against and tensions the hammer spring, a leaf spring that runs from the bottom of the grip frame to the hammer (not shown in the pic).

Its my understanding that the strain screw should be adjusted to be bottomed out at the factory.

It is sometimes loosened to give a lighter trigger pull, but this is like a bandaid, and the screw will likely move unless other measures are taken to secure it in place (loctite, etc.). The correct procedure would be to shorten the strain screw to give the desired spring tension and then bottom the screw out during assembly.

 

[Brawny71]

I had a lot of disappointment with S+W with new production and customer support. Old stuff still work well and is reliable. I no longer recommend new stuff. Way to many QC issues and slow walk to make things right for the customer. Shame. We need those old folks smoking Lucky Stripes answering the phones again.

 

[Podmonkey]

Well I just watched a video of a guy that bought a $3,500 Tommybuilt MP7 that functions like shit even after he sent it back for repair so I feel better that I at least didn't waste that much money. And I'm fairly confident S&W will be sending back a good gun as they did with my 340PD. So there's that

 

[Podmonkey]

View attachment 240821

The arrow is pointing at the strain screw. It pushes against and tensions the hammer spring, a leaf spring that runs from the bottom of the grip frame to the hammer (not shown in the pic).

Its my understanding that the strain screw should be adjusted to be bottomed out at the factory.

It is sometimes loosened to give a lighter trigger pull, but this is like a bandaid, and the screw will likely move unless other measures are taken to secure it in place (loctite, etc.). The correct procedure would be to shorten the strain screw to give the desired spring tension and then bottom the screw out during assembly.

Copy that, so it should be fully tightened. I don't need a super light DA pull, I look forward to working with a proper DA revolver trigger pull.