Starting a "What did you Get today" thread. Let's give it a try (dont forget pics)

Saltwater60

Saltwater60

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Gift to myself. I also got some router stuff and some other tools. A really nice 12” level and a small compact tape measure. The saw is a delta 36-464. One of the last usa made high quality saws. Runs great. It needed a bit of clean up.
 

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Willyone

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Saltwater60 said:
Gift to myself. I also got some router stuff and some other tools. A really nice 12” level and a small compact tape measure. The saw is a delta 36-464. One of the last usa made high quality saws. Runs great. It needed a bit of clean up.
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Kewl.... Looks like ya done good. That's a real good fence, looks to be the same fence that's on my early 90s 220V Delta Unisaw.
 
Saltwater60

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Willyone said:
Kewl.... Looks like ya done good. That's a real good fence, looks to be the same fence that's on my early 90s 220V Delta Unisaw.
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I paid $300 for the entire set up toi see there. The delta unifences are going for $330 alone and a highly praised. People seek them out and restore them. It’s the 50” fence that rips 32” on the one side with the table and it’s dead nuts square and straight. It locks up real tight and real nice with no play at all. Came with a descent blade. There was a tiny bit of rust on the cast iron table so I sanded it with 180, 220, and 320 then waxed it. It’s smoother now that it came from the factory with. Bottom is painted black and in great shape. Everything runs good, smooth and quiet. I’m super happy with it.
I just bought a spare hardware kit and new black plastic adjustment riders because they are a tad worn. They are a wear part that’s replaceable. I’ll convert it to 230V and it will run at 8.5 amps and have a two HP motor. I like that you can change the fence to be a high side or a low side depending on what you’re working with. Now to put a sacrificial fence on it with some T-Track so I can add feather boards. Oh and the wheels are coming today to make a sled for the saw this weekend. I have some organizing to do in the garage.
I’m building a kick ass router table soon.
 
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Willyone

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Saltwater60 said:
I paid $300 for the entire set up toi see there. The delta unifences are going for $330 alone and a highly praised. People seek them out and restore them. It’s the 50” fence that rips 32” on the one side with the table and it’s dead nuts square and straight. It locks up real tight and real nice with no play at all. Came with a descent blade. There was a tiny bit of rust on the cast iron table so I sanded it with 180, 220, and 320 then waxed it. It’s smoother now that it came from the factory with. Bottom is painted black and in great shape. Everything runs good, smooth and quiet. I’m super happy with it.
I just bought a spare hardware kit and new black plastic adjustment riders because they are a tad worn. They are a wear part that’s replaceable. I’ll convert it to 230V and it will run at 8.5 amps and have a two HP motor. I like that you can change the fence to be a high side or a low side depending on what you’re working with. Now to put a sacrificial fence on it with some T-Track so I can add feather boards. Oh and the wheels are coming today to make a sled for the saw this weekend. I have some organizing to do in the garage.
I’m building a kick ass router table soon.
Click to expand...

Here's a pic of my Unisaw. As seen, looks to have the same fence as yours. FYI the fence is fully adjustable and easy to make parallel as needed. Also a couple of pics of a horizontal router table I made about a year ago. Very useful, in fact I use it more than the vertical router table that I have it clamped bolted down to. Woodworking tools are a lot like guns, the more you have..... lol.

EDIT; BTW your saw will likely meet your needs running it at 110V. I rip quite a bit, probably a couple thousand BF over the past year or so, of thicker rough sawn oak, ash and other hardwoods, so the 220 comes in handy. Put a good quality thin kerf blade on your saw and it shouldn't strain at all, unless you're ripping really thick hardwoods.


100_2902.JPG 100_2895.JPG 100_2897.JPG
 

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Saltwater60

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Willyone said:
Here's a pic of my Unisaw. As seen, looks to have the same fence as yours. FYI the fence is fully adjustable and easy to make parallel as needed. Also a couple of pics of a horizontal router table I made about a year ago. Very useful, in fact I use it more than the vertical router table that I have it clamped bolted down to. Woodworking tools are a lot like guns, the more you have..... lol.

EDIT; BTW your saw will likely meet your needs running it at 110V. I rip quite a bit, probably a couple thousand BF over the past year or so, of thicker rough sawn oak, ash and other hardwoods, so the 220 comes in handy. Put a good quality thin kerf blade on your saw and it shouldn't strain at all, unless you're ripping really thick hardwoods.


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Nice set up. Your side table looks bigger than mine and your saw is a bit better than mine. Yours is more of a cabinet saw but I think I’ll put a cabinet around mine to make it quieter. Those unisaws are really well rated. People seem to love the saw I bought as well.
As for the 230V on my end everything is set for it and all I need to do is change the plug end on the saw. It’s 14 gauge wire on the saw, I have 20 amp double pull breaker and 230v plug where the saws going. Also then I have the other 120v lines for other tools and I won’t have to add outlets. Funny thing is the guy I bought the house from was a cabinet maker.
I know the fence is easy to adjust if need be and that’s what drew me to the saw. It’s in great shape and suits my needs and then some. I have a huge table in my garage I’m going to take the shelves off of, add a hinge so I can make it go up against the wall and drop it down when I need it for an out feed table.
What’s the benefit of the horizontal router table? I’ve never heard of it.
 
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Willyone

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Saltwater60 said:
Nice set up. Your side table looks bigger than mine and your saw is a bit better than mine. Yours is more of a cabinet saw but I think I’ll put a cabinet around mine to make it quieter. Those unisaws are really well rated. People seem to love the saw I bought as well.
As for the 230V on my end everything is set for it and all I need to do is change the plug end on the saw. It’s 14 gauge wire on the saw, I have 20 amp double pull breaker and 230v plug where the saws going. Also then I have the other 120v lines for other tools and I won’t have to add outlets. Funny thing is the guy I bought the house from was a cabinet maker.
I know the fence is easy to adjust if need be and that’s what drew me to the saw. It’s in great shape and suits my needs and then some. I have a huge table in my garage I’m going to take the shelves off of, add a hinge so I can make it go up against the wall and drop it down when I need it for an out feed table.
What’s the benefit of the horizontal router table? I’ve never heard of it.
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The front rail of the fence on mine is 84 in., yours is probably the same or close to it. I wouldn't say my saw is any better than yours, just more production oriented, great for a small'ish cabinet shop. I've had/used several table saws over the years and this old 3HP Unisaw is my favorite. I found it on Craigslist about 10 years go. It was sitting in a barn for years and needed a motor rebuild. I aligned the arbor/blade with the miter slots, adjusted the fence, new switch & plug, and all is well. Anyways, put a good quality rip blade in your saw and it should be just fine. I like the Freud glue line blades, decent price and performance.

The horizontal.... I do a bit of mortise and tenon work, and I prefer "loose tenon". For me, the horizontal table is good for cutting the mortises. Example, it's easy to cut a mortise in the ends of table rails, because I don't need to stand them up on end, balance them, force tall/long pieces against the fence, like what is needed with a conventional router table. I lay the rails flat and let an upcut spiral bit do the cut. Same with a table leg, lay it down on the table top, push it up against the fence, and cut the mortise. I made the table so the cutter height is adjustable, as is the depth of cut. The angle of the table is also adjustable. I cut the tenon material on a band saw, and sometimes need to fine tune it with the planer, then cut the tenons to the desired size. Get the tenons snug, glue the parts together, no nails or screws used. I also used the horizontal table to cut splines for joints in molding for my house (renovating a shit hole LOL). I made 3 1/4 inch casings for the window and doors. And I splined the 45* moldings at the corners to ensure flush face surfaces. Also splined butt joints on the 5 1/2 inch baseboards I made for the house.

I think we're hijacking the shit out'a this thread... way off topic !! o_O
 
Catskillkid

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Not so much what I got but what I built. Close to 4 years in the making most of which was hemming on hawing on whether I wanted the upper and lower cerokoted. Finally went with an OD green and got matching rails and stock. Still needs sights but it's ready to rock. Yes, I know it's neutered but I'm proud of anything that I make these days.

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Saltwater60

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GOPerfect said:
Pick up a few new Auto Knives today at the Smokey Mnt Knife works.

Went to Buds guns and handled a few guns that I like. I want the Springfield Hellion for sure. Once I move here, first gun that I will buy.

Picked up 250 rounds of 00 buck from Buds as well.
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But did you buy a house?
 
GOPerfect

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Saltwater60 said:
But did you buy a house?
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No. We fell in love with one that is a new build. Won't be finished for a few weeks. Loved it, nearly everything about the house fills our wants and needs. We spoke with the builder, great guy and very meticulous.

We loved the area that the house is located in and the property. There is one neighbor that just watching her and listening to her, she is not the type of person I want to live next to. The houses are far enough away, but I would not be able to ignore what I heard and saw.

She has six dogs that are all locked into a small pen, all on dirt and no shade. Her German Shepherd was barking because we were there, she was screaming for it to shut up. When the dog kept barking, she picked up a length of hose like she was going to hit it him. I spoke up and told her that would be a mistake. I cannot live that close to someone like that.

We will be having more talks with the builder in the coming months. We are almost positive that we are going new build. Checks all of the blocks on our lists.
 
Saltwater60

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GOPerfect said:
No. We fell in love with one that is a new build. Won't be finished for a few weeks. Loved it, nearly everything about the house fills our wants and needs. We spoke with the builder, great guy and very meticulous.

We loved the area that the house is located in and the property. There is one neighbor that just watching her and listening to her, she is not the type of person I want to live next to. The houses are far enough away, but I would not be able to ignore what I heard and saw.

She has six dogs that are all locked into a small pen, all on dirt and no shade. Her German Shepherd was barking because we were there, she was screaming for it to shut up. When the dog kept barking, she picked up a length of hose like she was going to hit it him. I spoke up and told her that would be a mistake. I cannot live that close to someone like that.

We will be having more talks with the builder in the coming months. We are almost positive that we are going new build. Checks all of the blocks on our lists.
Click to expand...
Good decision. I couldn’t live next to that either.
 
spat

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Jmac00 said:
i got my new Lock-n-Lube grease gun. It cost a small fortune, but I have to say, the freak'n thing works.
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With all the greasing I have to do, I got a Ryobi cordless one a while back.

Worth it's weight in gold maintaining that excavator.

I did swap the fitting to a Lock-n-Lube type, also worth it's weight in gold.
 
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