Thoughts on Rem Oil?

[GunXpatriot]

For years now, I've actually quite liked Rem Oil for a good number of my guns, especially my Marlin 795. Hell, even my SKS has always run flawlessly with it! I used it to clean and protect a lot of things, short of my large caliber bolt guns, where I opted for a good heavy duty copper solvent now and again. But when I left them in the safe for a while, I'd give them all a rub down with a rag of Rem Oil and never had any issues with rust, no matter how humid it was, or how much I handled my guns.

Thing is, I just got some new toys in. I went in and have them a quick rub down, but I'm wondering if Rem Oil is right for these. First, a Star BM 9mm. These things are fairly precise and tight, consistent with what you'd expect out of a 1911 (clone). A little beat up because they're surplus, but they're well-made and hefty. And so I wonder if a light-duty CLP like Rem Oil is really going to do what I need. The biggest issue is not the drying in and of itself, since the main ingredient for lubrication is the teflon that acts as a dry lubricant. But I can't help but think I'd be better served here with basically any other oil, or maybe a bit of grease on the rails. I figure at least something that'll stay wet over time, rather than dry within a half hour. That dry teflon, slick as it might be, just doesn't seem like enough.

Same goes for my new AR-15. Just doesn't seem like Rem Oil will do what this type of gun needs, especially since it's new and not really worn and broken in yet. Seems a lot of guys run these fairly wet and it really helps keep the gun going. What would you guys suggest for these? Is my instinct of a bit of grease for these spot-on?

 

[Darth]

I bought 1 can of Rem-oil, used half and gave it away. It attracts rust from all corners of the universe for me.

Switched to Ballistol nearly 10 years ago and I don’t look back. It’s my one stop CLP. I never get rust on anything I use it on.

It leaves that wet look you are shooting for on your guns indefinitely as far as I’ve seen.

 

[Eddie Gunks]

Rem oil is for your sewing machine.

End of uses.

 

[Eddie Gunks]

No such thing as break in. Either it works or it is broke.

Never grease. Attracks too much grit and wears parts out. Also does not function well in the cold.

 

[Podmonkey]

No such thing as break in. Either it works or it is broke.

Never grease. Attracks too much grit and wears parts out. Also does not function well in the cold.

I dunno about either of those. The first few mags through my Shield had some hiccups, especially in the first mag but after that haven't had a single malf in thousands of rounds.
As for grease I fail to see how firearms are different than any other high temp mechanical application. Ever work on a commercial wood chipper? About as dusty and gritty environment as you can get but even contaminated with all that garbage the grease still does it's job.
Grease wont burn off or sling off like oil will immediately do. I put a very light film of high temp grease on high wear surfaces I have noticed a reduced amount of wear and smoother function. Basically any place that is shiny from the finish wearing off gets a film of grease.
I believe the standard PM of the Garand actually specifies grease.

 

[MuttCat]

I just bought my first can of Rem oil from my LGS, recommended by the owner who I've known for 20 years. He swears by it; we'll see. In the past I used whatever was on the shelf in garage, 3 in 1, 10w30, etc, and my personal favorite, chain saw bar oil. That stuff sticks. But all would get applied and wiped off to pretty much dry. Sure, some arms like to be run wet. But when play time is over they got cleaned and put away fairly dry. For years that was in a bore store in a closet, never had an issue.

 

[Marine Cpl]

WD-40.

 

[GunXpatriot]

No such thing as break in. Either it works or it is broke.

Never grease. Attracks too much grit and wears parts out. Also does not function well in the cold.

Well... I'm not so sure I fully agree, even though I get what you mean. I still think that with most guns, the wearing of internal parts will slick up the gun. I think pretty much everyone has experienced THAT.

But that being said, it depends on the design. If it's a 1911 that locks up very tight and is extremely precise, it may be reasonable to need the parts to wear down a bit for fully smooth operation. But it's also an antiquated design, and things like that are probably expected.

With my new AR, there's definitely some "grittyness" when working the bolt/carrier, and it really feels like this will be gone after a few mags, as basically nothing is worn on the carrier or inside the receiver. But I think even for the most reliable guns you can find... If you ONLY shot 100 guns, but each at the first hundred rounds, many would probably seem to lack reliability. And then they'd never hang again.

But like I said, I also think it depends on the design. I don't think there's anything magical about a good AK for example. It just so happens that there's literally nothing inside the receiver to really jam it up. But just my two cents.

 

[togmaster]

Mobile 1

 

[1911guy]

Oil is oil. Never use anything in a spray can. Never use WD40 on stainless.
Don't overthink.

 

[Twogunwilly]

I've got 3/4 of a bottle I've had for 20+ years, free to a good home.

 

[pramaglia]

I use Rem Oil on the few guns that I own, but I also use a light coating of Hoppes gun oil on any sliding surfaces. I don't see much of a difference between Rem Oil and any other oil except that Rem Oil seems a lot lighter in weight then Hoppes. I also store all my guns in a gun safe with a desicant pack which probably prevents rust as well.

 

[thegatman]

We-40 quick fix. Attracts water. Ballistol is best.

 

[Gonzobird]

Slip 2000. That is IMO used the best. Works for all platforms. It will clean and lubricate. I used to use REM Oil.

I have a Remington 11-87. I was running it in match one cold November. First stage no issues ran like it should. Part way through the next stage the bolt started to run slower and slower until I had to cycle it by hand.

Checked it over and nothing was wrong as far as the workings of the gun. Seemed dry and gunked up though. One of the guys gave me some slip 2000 so I put a feew drops over the bolt and started working it. Seemed to move better.

The third stage I grab the shotgun and it was the opposite of the second stage. Had to cycle it by hand twice then the bolt started running faster and then started cycling as it should.

Since then all I have used is Slip 2000. Rem oil only works well between certian tempatures and if the gun has any funk in it it will gum up. Slip 2000 works in extreme cold and extreme heat.

 

[oc shooter]

been using Remoil for years seems to do the job also use balistol and hoppes never really put much thought into it. no rust on any of my guns that I'm aware of back in the 70's and 80's i used to wax the exterior of all my blued guns especially under the action and barrels on the bolt guns never ever any rust when i hunted in the rain and snow the water just beaded up

 

[Podmonkey]

I don't think it matters as much as we think it does. I have used Breakfree for decades and none of my guns have have problems with corrosion, excess wear or sticky function.
I have switched to Ballistol mostly because I can buy it in stores now and it comes in a spray can which I find convenient. Also I can use Ballistol on my knives and not worry about when I use em to cut food.
WD-40 was mentioned, I think it's a good cleaner and it is decent for corrosion protection as long as the film is undisturbed but it's so low viscosity that it won't provide much in the way of lubrication for very long. Different products are good for different roles. Frankly I have stopped running my ARs so wet and I keep them fairly dry in use now.

 

[repete]

Rem oil eventually gums up. I have a Mk1 that sat in the safe unused for years, every once in awhile I'd oil it. After a few years I took it out to shoot it and literally I'd pull the trigger and nothing then a second later BANG! It did that several times until I took it apart and cleaned the dried up oil.

 

[cgrutt]

WD40 is primarily solvent based... as mentioned good for cleaning not so much for lubrication. I've read it gets some of it's lubrication properties from the dissolved oils/grease from the parts it is cleaning, lol... I don't think it attracts water as mentioned above (in fact it gets its name WD from water displacing properties). Word of caution, not so much for firearms, but I believe I ruined a roofing gun from using WD40 instead of oil -- it can break down some o-rings.

I still use Rem Oil in addition to some others including Mobile One. Never had any issues with it.

 

[Podmonkey]

WD40 is primarily solvent based... as mentioned good for cleaning not so much for lubrication. I've read it gets some of it's lubrication properties from the dissolved oils/grease from the parts it is cleaning, lol... I don't think it attracts water as mentioned above (in fact it gets its name WD from water displacing properties). Word of caution, not so much for firearms, but I believe I ruined a roofing gun from using WD40 instead of oil -- it can break down some o-rings.

I still use Rem Oil in addition to some others including Mobile One. Never had any issues with it.

Yeah, WD-40 is hydrophobic. Good thing to spray into gun that has gotten wet but you don't have the time or facility to strip it down. I'd spray out AK74 bores with WD-40 after flushing it with hot water. Which I'd probably still be doing if we still had access to $174 crates of 7n6.

 

[JohnD13]

Rem-Oil is not bad but Ballistol is much better. I use it on everything including black powder guns.

 

[Marine Cpl]

I don't think it matters as much as we think it does. I have used Breakfree for decades and none of my guns have have problems with corrosion, excess wear or sticky function.
I have switched to Ballistol mostly because I can buy it in stores now and it comes in a spray can which I find convenient. Also I can use Ballistol on my knives and not worry about when I use em to cut food.
WD-40 was mentioned, I think it's a good cleaner and it is decent for corrosion protection as long as the film is undisturbed but it's so low viscosity that it won't provide much in the way of lubrication for very long. Different products are good for different roles. Frankly I have stopped running my ARs so wet and I keep them fairly dry in use now.

I've always been a breakfree guy. I used it for years. It has to be the best right? We used it in the military. Then one day, I read that synthetic motor oil works best. I tried it for a few years and it worked. One day my bottle ran out and all I had was WD-40. I used to clown my dad for using it but it was all I had and my OCD would not let me carry a dirty firearm. It worked great. It smelled great and I still use it.

No rust. No lubrication issues. No gumming like the internet says. No extra wear. No primer penetration. No nothing.

Fancy oil is snake oil. All designed to take your money. Just like CCW belts for inside the waistband and hollow points for pistols. These things didn't exist in the past. People and their guns weren't any less effective in the past.

Oil is oil. There wasn't any ballistol, breakfree, hoppes, frog this or that. The military in the past used WD-40 and motor oil from the motor pool to clean and lubricate their weapons. Their weapons worked.

Your weapon will still work today even if you used cooking oil.

 

[ProgSpear]

Rem oil is for your sewing machine.

End of uses.

Nope. Untrue. It works for hair clippers too. THATS the end of uses.

 

[cgrutt]

Wd40 not bad on Italian sausages albeit an acquired taste...



Not so much on the meatballs definitely prefer Mobile One on them...



Have you seen the price of olive oil lately? F'n nuts! Anyway oil is oil, right @Willjr75 lol...

 

[ECU Pirates]

I bought 1 can of Rem-oil, used half and gave it away. It attracts rust from all corners of the universe for me.

Switched to Ballistol nearly 10 years ago and I don’t look back. It’s my one stop CLP. I never get rust on anything I use it on.

It leaves that wet look you are shooting for on your guns indefinitely as far as I’ve seen.

Also provides they dirty sock smell! I use it all the time.

 

[ECU Pirates]

I've always been a breakfree guy. I used it for years. It has to be the best right? We used it in the military. Then one day, I read that synthetic motor oil works best. I tried it for a few years and it worked. One day my bottle ran out and all I had was WD-40. I used to clown my dad for using it but it was all I had and my OCD would not let me carry a dirty firearm. It worked great. It smelled great and I still use it.

No rust. No lubrication issues. No gumming like the internet says. No extra wear. No primer penetration. No nothing.

Fancy oil is snake oil. All designed to take your money. Just like CCW belts for inside the waistband and hollow points for pistols. These things didn't exist in the past. People and their guns weren't any less effective in the past.

Oil is oil. There wasn't any ballistol, breakfree, hoppes, frog this or that. The military in the past used WD-40 and motor oil from the motor pool to clean and lubricate their weapons. Their weapons worked.

Your weapon will still work today even if you used cooking oil.

Round nose 158gr was not as effective as modern .38 special and I believe ballistol was around back in the day. Oil is not oil (to a certain extent) different resistance to temp, different viscosity ect. I use Mobil one and ballistol. I might do an experiment and use wd-40 on a gun and run it until it fails just to test the wd-40 works fine theory. Nit scientific but I want to see what happens when it get hot.

 

[FrankenCub]

No such thing as break in. Either it works or it is broke.

Never grease. Attracks too much grit and wears parts out. Also does not function well in the cold.

Walthers have always been known as needing some break in. Some upwards of 1000 rounds.
As for grease, I completely agree. I would never put any on my firearms. All one has to do is look at grease fittings on cars to see what accumulates. I don't baby my Walther, and if I need to roll around under my truck with it holstered, I'll do it. And it get friggin dirty lol.

 

[FrankenCub]

I used to use Rem Oil but have since switched to Mobile 1 a long time ago. Synthetic oil won't burn up like dino will and a quart will last forever.

 

[GunXpatriot]

I don't think it matters as much as we think it does. I have used Breakfree for decades and none of my guns have have problems with corrosion, excess wear or sticky function.
I have switched to Ballistol mostly because I can buy it in stores now and it comes in a spray can which I find convenient. Also I can use Ballistol on my knives and not worry about when I use em to cut food.
WD-40 was mentioned, I think it's a good cleaner and it is decent for corrosion protection as long as the film is undisturbed but it's so low viscosity that it won't provide much in the way of lubrication for very long. Different products are good for different roles. Frankly I have stopped running my ARs so wet and I keep them fairly dry in use now.

Yeah, I used to dig Breakfree. I think it's probably a MUCH better CLP than Rem Oil, just because it relies on actual wet lubrication rather than Rem's teflon acting as a dry lubricant. I know it's sacrilegious, but I've yet to try Ballistol.

I think it'll probably come off as super lazy, but I've basically just relied on CLP's to do the job because I just don't really want to take the time to worry about using several products on the same gun. Every couple range trips I'll run Sweet 7.62 through my KelTec SU-16 and Marlin XL7, but other than that, they basically get Rem Oil (or previously Breakfree) and it's always been fine.

I think what I'll do is... Use the Rem Oil on all of them to start. If I'm seeing malfunctions from being too dry, I'll throw in a couple drops of Hoppes oil, which yes, I also love.

 

[GunXpatriot]

Round nose 158gr was not as effective as modern .38 special and I believe ballistol was around back in the day. Oil is not oil (to a certain extent) different resistance to temp, different viscosity ect. I use Mobil one and ballistol. I might do an experiment and use wd-40 on a gun and run it until it fails just to test the wd-40 works fine theory. Nit scientific but I want to see what happens when it get hot.

Yeah, would love to see it.

I once heard of someone wanting to use petroleum jelly, figuring it would act as a good grease. But apparently it too suffers really badly under any kind of heat.

Maybe another good experiment? lmao

 

[GunXpatriot]

Wd40 not bad on Italian sausages albeit an acquired taste...

Not so much on the meatballs definitely prefer Mobile One on them...

Have you seen the price of olive oil lately? F'n nuts! Anyway oil is oil, right @Willjr75 lol...

Honestly, WD-40 smells awesome, so clearly it must taste great too!