valuable metals if SHTF with economy, guns along with some ammunition
Better check. Mine only covers $2500 of guns without a rider. Rider just needs more value. They do not require an itemized list. So that ia good. The photos will suffice they said.
Additional coverage I believe.What exactly is a rider?
What exactly is a rider?
Better check. Mine only covers $2500 of guns without a rider. Rider just needs more value. They do not require an itemized list. So that ia good. The photos will suffice they said.
This coverage is all under homeowners right?
You should take a good look at your policy limits, most of the policy limits on firearms are for theft. All of your firearms should be covered for damage that resulted from a fire or other type of covered catastrophe (up to your personal property limits in the policy).Well, good to know. I'm covered for $2000 for firearms. Looks like I need a rider, or new insurance. Been looking to get out of this company anyways, I'll be looking to do this once my roof is repaired this fall.
We see questions regarding gun safes here and I am curious as to what is the ratio of contents-to-safe.
If the contents of the safe (guns, optics, jewelry, cash, etc) cost $4000 and the safe itself cost $1000 then the contents-to-safe ratio would be 4 to 1. If the contents of the safe cost $5000 and the safe itself cost $500 then the contents-to-safe ratio would be 10 to 1. I do not know if there is an industry standard for the 'proper' ratio. Most likely the insurance companies have this all figured out. It seems to me that at some point as the ratio gets higher and higher a better safe is called for. I don't know if it is 10 to 1, or if it is 100 to 1.
Fellow NYgunforum members: what is your contents-to-safe ratio?
About the same here.
I don't think a better safe will provide any value though.
Anyone prepared to break into the cheap one will just bring bigger tools if you have a better one.
Any fire sufficient to damage the contents of the cheap one will last long enough to destroy them even in an expensive one.
So, a cheap safe that protects from humidity and casual theft is all that is necessary IMHO, unless you have museum pieces in it....
I don't considerate it a safe. It's the house my unicorn lives in.
Any $1,000 safe is gonna have holes in the bottom to lag the safe to the floor. Nobody's gonna chain saw a circle around the floor just to steal a stupid safe. Thieves probably want to be in and out in like 5 minutes. Honestly the best thing to do - have those cheap cameras filming the house, feed the film to a cloud based storage solution, and if someone steals anything you have their car, license plate, and ugly faces on the film up at a data center somewhere for $5 a month.
They wouldn't use a chainsaw, they'd use a cheap angle grinder and a few grinding discs (~$30 at harbor freight), make a hole big enough to get the goodies, then make off with them. Probably 15min of grinding for a very high profit. The neighbors wouldn't even hear it if the safe is in the basement, or not in a room with exterior walls.
Not unless they know you have guns and looking specifically for them. Then theyll be prepared for a nice big safe and will get into it. Physics is a bitch when it comes to security.Neighbors might night hear it, but 8 bulldogs would and I would; as would ADT. And we are upgrading to video next month for a few bucks more. So ADT would say "smile, you're on candid camera". But how would they get a 4 foot long rifle with scope through a hole on the top - it'd have to be about 16" diameter. The roof is too close to the top to pull straight up, and you can't pull stacked long rifles through a hole in the front. So they have to cut around the floor and haul it off for later opening. Each safe must be about 1,000 lbs loaded; so it isn't light and fluffy. They'd need one of those movers dollies. And I think most thugs look to fast-grab shit. Like TV's, playstations, laptops, that sort of thing. They don't want to be in the house for half an hour to an hour I wouldn't think.
They wouldn't use a chainsaw, they'd use a cheap angle grinder and a few grinding discs (~$30 at harbor freight), make a hole big enough to get the goodies, then make off with them. Probably 15min of grinding for a very high profit. The neighbors wouldn't even hear it if the safe is in the basement, or not in a room with exterior walls.
Nah, just a couple of pry bars. Here is a ~$1,500 Liberty "gun safe".
Meh..they just got luckyNah, just a couple of pry bars. Here is a ~$1,500 Liberty "gun safe".
Yes, and this is exactly why it is critical to bolt the safe to the floor - very very securely. Using full body weight bouncing on six foot crow bar is a huge amount of force.And they have access from all angles.
Perhaps, but 2 minutes for $1,500 does not seem like a good value to me.Meh..they just got lucky
Honestly though, it take a hell of a lot longer than I thought it was..even 2 minutes is pretty kinda long to be banging around loud noises.
Yup. Throw a glock or two and some Remington Yellowjax ammo in it .Perhaps, but 2 minutes for $1,500 does not seem like a good value to me.
If the contents of the safe are getting into five figures it might make sense to use the Liberty as a decoy for a true safe.
Better still, put a Daisy BB gun and this:Yup. Throw a glock or two and some Remington Yellowjax ammo in it .![]()
It can be argued that it is better to have your guns hidden throughout the house than it is to have all guns/jewelry/cash/valuables in one easily opened RSC.I don't have one so I guess nothing![]()