Just a place to talk about Kalashnikov rifles
- Thread starter Edwardteach72
- Start date
Doo it
So just got a Haley Strategic Thorntail2. I've been playing around with placement of my Modlite PLHv2 and finally think I have the 2 spots I want it.
The first is how I'm running it now with just the clicky tail cap until I get a pressure switch (most likely the Modlite Modbutton lite)
Pros to this way, we'll I don't need to spend money on a pressure switch.
Cons, I prefer a more slick set up on my body side so if I was running a belt and armor it won't catch as much on that,
I can only activate it with my left hand so it's not Ambidextrous
Bit of shadow from the sight and barrel but it's not that big of a deal.
The light hits the front sight which well sucks.
So I figured well I can push it out as far as possible and try and get almost even with the muzzle and it will help eliminate some of the cons I mentioned.. well this is how that came out.
So this way did fix some of the cons of the other way but as you may be able to see has cons of its own and I personally think they are worse than some shadow casting and a little light on the front sight.
Back to the drawing board.. let's move it back some and see what we get.
I had it back one more slot making the mount even with the gas block and while that was a perfect spot for keeping the mount nice and secure from any bending or braking if it takes a hard hit I was getting a little bit of light hitting the front sight.
So I moved it up the one slot to how it is now pictured above and I think I found the right balance, now more light on the sight, and most of the mount is nice and supported against the gastube/ultimak
Now just need to get the modbutton
The first is how I'm running it now with just the clicky tail cap until I get a pressure switch (most likely the Modlite Modbutton lite)
Pros to this way, we'll I don't need to spend money on a pressure switch.
Cons, I prefer a more slick set up on my body side so if I was running a belt and armor it won't catch as much on that,
I can only activate it with my left hand so it's not Ambidextrous
Bit of shadow from the sight and barrel but it's not that big of a deal.
The light hits the front sight which well sucks.
So I figured well I can push it out as far as possible and try and get almost even with the muzzle and it will help eliminate some of the cons I mentioned.. well this is how that came out.
So this way did fix some of the cons of the other way but as you may be able to see has cons of its own and I personally think they are worse than some shadow casting and a little light on the front sight.
Back to the drawing board.. let's move it back some and see what we get.
I had it back one more slot making the mount even with the gas block and while that was a perfect spot for keeping the mount nice and secure from any bending or braking if it takes a hard hit I was getting a little bit of light hitting the front sight.
So I moved it up the one slot to how it is now pictured above and I think I found the right balance, now more light on the sight, and most of the mount is nice and supported against the gastube/ultimak
Now just need to get the modbutton
Last edited:
fnfalguy
.308 Win
Just started the process of a couple of builds. Ordered 2 receivers yesterday from Childers and now the wait begins.
gun_slinger_boy
.338 Win Mag
@Edwardteach72
Have you tested it yet? I would think you would have to mount the light way further back so the gas doesn't eat the light up. Even better if you put it on a handguard and then it would be right by your support hand making even the button click on the light itself easy. I think you would be better off with something like this.
or even something like this
Have you tested it yet? I would think you would have to mount the light way further back so the gas doesn't eat the light up. Even better if you put it on a handguard and then it would be right by your support hand making even the button click on the light itself easy. I think you would be better off with something like this.
or even something like this
Oh I have zero worrie about the modlite not being able to handle where it's at
If it can withstand a full auto scar17 and brake it will be just fine on this set up
Alright well I fucked up and ordered the wrong magpul MOE handguards, ended up with the one without the cutout for a sling loop and well my handguard retainer has a sling loop.
Now I could just cut the loop off but then I'd have to figure out a different way to have a sling and that's either buying a QD mlok and maybe even a whole new sling and honestly in the end that would probably cost more than a new handguard (I could probably karma this one off maybe??)
Anyways. I figured in the mean time I can do a little mock up to see how it is all coming together and if it's what I like or go a different direction.
I still need to get a pressure switch for the Modlite (should be the next purchase)
And tossed on the stupid ol Bushnell TRS25 just to get an idea and now thinking I may just try and find a Holosun 403b when they go on sale and figure out a way to mount it on the ultimak similar to my original plan
Now I could just cut the loop off but then I'd have to figure out a different way to have a sling and that's either buying a QD mlok and maybe even a whole new sling and honestly in the end that would probably cost more than a new handguard (I could probably karma this one off maybe??)
Anyways. I figured in the mean time I can do a little mock up to see how it is all coming together and if it's what I like or go a different direction.
I still need to get a pressure switch for the Modlite (should be the next purchase)
And tossed on the stupid ol Bushnell TRS25 just to get an idea and now thinking I may just try and find a Holosun 403b when they go on sale and figure out a way to mount it on the ultimak similar to my original plan
Too bad you couldn’t have “fucked up” a week ago. Just received my Magpul MOE hand guard and installed it on my AK, as mine does not have the sling loop on the hand guard retainer. Paid a small fortune for shipping because I wanted it NOW and did not want to use the USPS. I’m sure you would have cut me a deal
Too bad you couldn’t have “fucked up” a week ago. Just received my Magpul MOE hand guard and installed it on my AK, as mine does not have the sling loop on the hand guard retainer. Paid a small fortune for shipping because I wanted it NOW and did not want to use the USPS. I’m sure you would have cut me a deal
Well shit hahaha..
Ok hoping to pick some brains here (@gun_slinger_boy ?)
Now I can easily find zeroing information for 5.56 AR15s (aka the 50/200y zero)
Now I finally ordered and am waiting to get my red dot (holosun 403b) and mount (Attero Arms "Bravo mount") went back to the budget concept that I started with and then shy'd away from for a sec.
Now my question, trying to figure out the zero to use.. I know there is something about iron sights with 123gr doing a 25m (or 24y) zero.
So more info. The mount has a 300m battle zero rear iron sight that I'll also have to figure out how to zero and then also zero the red dot
Now I can easily find zeroing information for 5.56 AR15s (aka the 50/200y zero)
Now I finally ordered and am waiting to get my red dot (holosun 403b) and mount (Attero Arms "Bravo mount") went back to the budget concept that I started with and then shy'd away from for a sec.
Now my question, trying to figure out the zero to use.. I know there is something about iron sights with 123gr doing a 25m (or 24y) zero.
So more info. The mount has a 300m battle zero rear iron sight that I'll also have to figure out how to zero and then also zero the red dot
gun_slinger_boy
.338 Win Mag
I honestly don't get too hung up on zeroing guns. I zero all my rifles with optics or irons at 50 yards and call it a day. If the rifle has a red dot and irons I zero the red dot first and then simply co-witness the irons with the dot. What's nice about that is if you ever take off the dot or want to put a different one on or a scope you are almost if not perfectly zeroed simply by aligning with the irons.
See the thing about the mount I got is it's also the rear back up sight set for 300m
4WHLDRFTN
.308 Win
anybody have an orig stock n grip for this
anybody have an orig stock n grip for this View attachment 107220
It's a thordsen stock with their ak adapter
gun_slinger_boy
.338 Win Mag
I see. So now I'm a bit confused. Are you saying that the rear iron is at 300 out of the box? Is it adjustable? If not adjustable I don't know that you'd have to do anything but adjust the windage on the front sight. As long as the windage is good (at any range) I would think you'd be good at 300 yards. The only way to truly confirm hits at 300 is to shoot a target 300 yards out. Do you want the red dot zeroed for 300 yards too?
4WHLDRFTN
.308 Win
gun_slinger_boy
.338 Win Mag
Ok so what's the longest range you have access to?
I'd say 200y once I join this new place
You’ll probably be better off with a 50 or 100yrd zero to minimize the need to remember hold overs/hold unders. A 50 or a 100 will be pretty flat within the distances you’ll be shooting (0-200yrds). The most you’ll really need to worry about is holding just a tiny bit high at 200yrds. If you went with a 25yrd, you’ll have to remember hold unders.
Will that work with the 7.62x39?
I thought that was more of a 24y or 25m and 200 or something i can't remember.. but was for the irons
Something like
Zero the 200m sight at 24y or 25m
Then bring it to 100 and confirm zero at 100
Then battle sight is good at something
gun_slinger_boy
.338 Win Mag
The thing is that he has a 300m (328y) fixed sight. So I think he'd only need to confirm windage. So at 25m you'd shoot your target. It will be low to wherever you're holding. Then at 50, 75 and so on. Up to 100 it should be moving up closer to where you're holding. Not sure after that. But as long as it's moving predictably the further you go out and the windage is good then you should be able to hit at 300m. You can do whatever with the red dot.
The best thing to honestly do is run a ballistic calculator to check your ballistics and see what kind of path each zero will give you and choose which one you like the best. But in general a 50yd zero or 100yd zero (which are pretty close to each other when shooting 7.62x39) will give you the flattest trajectory in the ranges that you’ll usually end up shooting in. You’ll barely be low at 25yrds, pretty flat from 50-150yds, then just a few inches low at 200yrds. Just put your dot on anything from 0-200yds and you’ll hit it (which will be your entire possible range distance where you shoot). But every gun will shoot a little bit differently. Use a calculator and try and figure out which zero distance will give you the flattest trajectory within the distances you’ll be able to shoot at. Some people will choose a zero that extends their range further but they’ll never shoot their AK passed 200 or even 300yds. So why give yourself worse ballstics at the distances you’ll mainly be shooting at just to be able to say that you have a slightly extended range that you’ll never utilize.
This sounds better than Rob Skis video saying do a 25y zero which would put it at 8-9in high at 100y
Ah, completely didn’t see the fixed 300yd rear iron. I was mainly speaking of zeroing the red dot...my bad. lol