Ny commies have now told you how you can heat your home

[livingston]

As stated I’ll just drive to PA to get it done. I’ll buy the same furnace I have now, install it and a friend does hvac. I’ll have my friend come over and service it t

Most people will not be able to do this. One could see yearly inspections of your home . serial numbers and date of mfg . sent to state. Any work done on a home will need to be by a licensed person. Think of your auto inspection. If all T's crossed and I's dotted not in place fire ins void... We already have to have a raised bed for most folks off the city sewage lines. as to be up to code. Same will be for all these homes .
Next thing is how many folks will be able to repair and clean a oil or gas unit in the future. War on the American people by attrition folks. No new people entering the field. .. A break down could take months to fix. .. Limited parts. We will be looking at a cash for clunker deal except with a furnace. Down the line it will be one cannot even sell a home with a furnace in place.
Think you are safe with electric . They will base a home heating unit as say 900 sq ft home. That is the amount of KW allowed into every home. Anything over that one will pay out the ass. . That 4-5000 sq ft home could run $ 10-20,000 or more to heat and cool.... Only the very rich would be able to afford to live in one ... Certainly not a person from the middle class ... That lifestyle is over ...
By Design folks.

 

[camper4lyfe]

The same way your A/C blows out cold air when it's 80+ both in and outside your car.

20F is 267 degrees C above absolute zero. There is a lot of energy there.

Yes but no. Standard heat pumps don't work below 40 degrees, though they have developed cold climate heat pumps that buy you another 20-30 degrees. They're still not good as a sole heat source because the electric backup is NOT efficient.

 

[ajoe59]

All true. As the temperature drops so does the unit's efficiency. It will get to a point where it will need to turn on its electric heater. That's right, units in colder climates have backup electric heaters.

 

[Steal2B]

Yep it’s done. I knew they would. I will not comply and will buy a furnace from PA. I just don’t care.

NY plans to change the way you heat your home. Gas, oil, propane furnaces to be phased out

The state Climate Action Council today approved policies to reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

www.syracuse.com

They have now mathematically proved they are Idiots.

 

[Bigfoot]

I do all my own stuff, always have, I'm lucky to have the skills to do pretty much anything residential home related. What I mean by lucky is I grew up on a farm. Because of that, I learned how to deal with electrical, plumbing, and more at an early age. We did almost everything ourselves back then. Self sufficient.

I installed my new gas furnace 3 years ago. Made any adjustments needed like the in/out gas pressure at the valve etc and so on. But the thing to consider with new installations or even repairs other than if you have the skills required. Is your homeowner's insurance and how that is affected if something goes wrong.

I actually have more trust in myself than in a contractor that I have never met before and have no idea how sound his methods are.



PSA - Beware of HVAC techs... I have stories. Everything from dangerous shit to flat out rip offs. One example is my neighbor had a furnace installed by a HAVC tech(s) and the PVC exhaust pipe was never glued at an elbow and the pipe separated. I only discovered it when I went into his basement to put in a new sump pump for him. I heard a whoosh of air that didn't sound right and then noticed the separated PVC pipe. The neighbor bought his first co2 detector the next day. I went over his whole furnace checking things out. Then I find that the gas pressure coming out of the gas valve was way too high. Don't ever trust the factory settings. If I know that, a HVAC tech does.

Another one is, a co worker called me and said that the HVAC tech is there at his place.
The tech replaced the ignitor first and then told my co worker that to come to find out that isn't the problem and he needs a new gas valve. I told my co worker that doesn't sound right to me (for reasons.) I also mentioned to him that at a certain sequence of operation the gas valve should make an audible click that you can hear. He said that he's not sure but thinks that he heard it when down stairs checking on the HAVC tech's progress. I told him to stop the process and that I will be over in a little while to check things out. Come to find out there was no problem with his gas valve. The ignitor "was" the issue and the tech was trying to rip the guy off. This was around 4 years ago and that same gas valve is still working.

I do not mean to slam any HVAC techs that may be on this forum. I can think of one NYGF member for sure. I have been working in automotive repair shops for most of my adult life. I know as well as anyone, that the bad ones give the whole industry a bad name. One other thing is no matter how good or experienced someone is. They won't get every initial diagnosis correct every single time. Not when you are doing it almost every day, year after year, job after job. These things happen, ask me how I know. What I'm getting at is a misdiagnosis isn't necessarily nefarious.

Just because someone is a licensed pro doesn't mean that you should trust their work or their honesty IMO. I'm just saying. I trust myself more than anyone. So I do all my own installations or repairs.

 

[Steal2B]

The supply chain of the entire planet can not manufacture the distribution, transmission, and generation equipment needed to increase New York State's infrastructure to meet the electrical vehicle and home heating demands / schedule mandated by these clueless clowns.

 

[Hochulsucks1234]

New York’s latest step toward sky-high energy costs — and blackouts

Brace for skyrocketing electric bills and possible blackouts, New York: The state Climate Action Council voted 19-3 Monday to OK a reckless clean-energy scheme.

nypost.com

"New Yorkers will need between 111 gigawatts and 124 GWs of power by 2040 — and even that “may not be sufficient” to ensure a “reliable” supply. Yet power plants in the state can now put out just 41 GW, and some of those plants will be shutting down."

 

[Jmac00]

Tractor Supply by me has a lovely wood furnace on the floor. I’ve been thinking of teeing it into the ductwork to supplement or replace the NG hot air furnace. Suck on it, Hokum. I’m gonna burn trees!

LOL, I actually did this for a customer, about 20 years ago. he was the Brighton Town Arborist. He knew everyone in the logging industry and was one of the first people to warn of the Ash borer beetle.

a word of caution. two things, get a really good filter on your furnace and a really BIG, the largest you can find, humidifier. That wood burner will dry you house out in no time. Hard wood cabinet doors will warp/crack, real wood floors are going to shrink, all kinds of bad things will happen.

Just a heads up

 

[Saltwater60]

I feel bad for the poor bastards with a 100 year old house with HHB retrofitted in say the 70's with a hot water maker with a maxed out 100A panel. No ductwork to put a air to air HP in and a air to water only makes like 120 degree water, My shower water is hotter. Speaking of showers your hot water maker isn't going to work for shit, spend more money. A 10 ton HP is probably 30-40 amps on its own, a service upgrade would be in order.
A $4000 furnace job is going to turn into $10000+++ and not work as well in the end. We wont even get into the infrastructure issues to make this nonsense even happen.

This is me other than I have ductwork. My second story ductwork is undersized for todays cooking needs. Hearing is ok because heat rises. I have no second story cold air return and insulating/sealing up my house with a cold climate heat pump will be many $10,000’s in order for them to work properly. Speaking of hot water my house is tall and my hot water is a bit of a way away from my bathroom so I have my tankless system set to 135F. I’ll need to add a hot water heater to my bathroom now as well. More cost all for a lie.
The best part is they say they will need to add tons of housing in and around Syracuse for the new Micron semi conductor plant, but first will people move here for it? Second, housing and development warms the earth and the Biden admin says it’s by 10-20 degrees over open land. They likely measure the temp at the Syracuse airport so adding more homes close by will cause the recorded temps to rise. People need to wake up as to what is actually occurring and cause recorded temperatures increases. To me it all about where the temps are taken and us expanding cities.

Generating power | United Nations

According to UN Habitat, cities consume 78 per cent of the world’s energy and produce more than 60 per cent of greenhouse gas emissions.

www.un.org

In the 80’s we changed how we measure temps and look at the huge increase. How do we account for that?

Climate Change Indicators: U.S. and Global Temperature | US EPA

This indicator describes trends in average surface temperature for the United States and the world.

www.epa.gov

 

[Saltwater60]

Even if these heat pumps were the greatest thing since sliced bread and every swinging dick was 100% on board to swap over there is no possible way to get it done by 2025 or 2030. There simply isn’t the amount of HVAC contractors to even come close tp that goal. There is also the issue of parts and equipment supply which wouldn’t come close to this amount of demand. Typical NYS government, pass a law with no way to implement it in reality. Just like the ammo background check, pass it and have no way to get it done.

I’m sure there will be issues with this but after 2025 new builds will need them installed and after 2030 if your current equipment breaks you will not be able to buy a gas/fuel fired furnace in NYS. My furnace will be about 17 years old by then so I’ll just have my buddy swap it then and I should be good until I GTFO of NYS.

 

[Jmac00]

Yes but no. Standard heat pumps don't work below 40 degrees, though they have developed cold climate heat pumps that buy you another 20-30 degrees. They're still not good as a sole heat source because the electric backup is NOT efficient.

weeell, kinda, as much as I hate to agree with Sof S. he's kinda right.

heat pumps work off the theory that there is no "cold air" only "air without heat". Many Mini-splits systems will work down to -5°. Mitsubishi came out with there "Hyper-Heat" model 10 years ago. Many places in northern Canada use mini-splits down to -40. Yep, it runs non-stop, but they seem to work. and up there, if the power goes out, your entire home will be a block of ice within hours.

A standard looking heat pump will easily work down to 15 or 20°, then the electric backup heat will start to "stage in" usually, its 5Kw at a time. depending on manufacturer. sometimes its 5Kw, then another 5Kw will kick in and if the house (thermostat) isn't satisfied it will drop in the last 10Kw, for a total of 20Kw's. Now, most houses won't need a 20Kw heat package ( we use to call 'em Toaster packages, cause thats basically what they are ) a 5Kw or 10Kw will do the job. Just keep in mind, while your 'toaster' is running, so is the compressor, outdoor fan, and indoor fan. and every, 45 to 90 minutes, the entire system goes into air conditioning mode to "defrost" the outdoor unit. These things are not cheap to use.

here's kinda, how this works. Refrigerants, like R410, R22, and the new R209 ( which, I believe is actually propane ~~~no shit ) are all at minus 40ish degrees. all energy flows from HOT to COLD. so air that is 20° still has energy ( heat ) that the refrigerant can absorb. Therefore, if you run the refrigerant through a coil, it will absorb that energy, and if you do the opposite in your home, it will release that energy in the form of warm(ish) air.
Now, heres the rub. many people want to feel HOT air coming from their registers. Oil will blast out 130°-140° air, a hi-efficient gas furnace will put out 110-120° air. a Heat pump will trickle out 90 to 100° air. So HVAC contractors will be getting a lot of "come look at this thing, its not putting out hot air like my old furnace" complaints. when in fact the system is working as designed. anytime I replaced a furnace with a HP I warned people about this very issue.

but, if the power company, or god forbid the government takes over the power company, your current utility bill of $150 to $250 will be closer to $600., or more. and that assuming **they** can keep the electrons flowing.

Now there is ONE MORE PROBLEM, no one is talking about. your whole house, stand-by generator. That expensive piece of equipment is now a giant paper weight. I have no illusion that the communist leaders of the future will literally turn off the gas, at some point. So you'all will be at the mercy of the government.

damn, how did this little diatribe get so long, sorry for the rant

 

[Saltwater60]

weeell, kinda, as much as I hate to agree with Sof S. he's kinda right.

heat pumps work off the theory that there is no "cold air" only "air without heat". Many Mini-splits systems will work down to -5°. Mitsubishi came out with there "Hyper-Heat" model 10 years ago. Many places in northern Canada use mini-splits down to -40. Yep, it runs non-stop, but they seem to work. and up there, if the power goes out, your entire home will be a block of ice within hours.

A standard looking heat pump will easily work down to 15 or 20°, then the electric backup heat will start to "stage in" usually, its 5Kw at a time. depending on manufacturer. sometimes its 5Kw, then another 5Kw will kick in and if the house (thermostat) isn't satisfied it will drop in the last 10Kw, for a total of 20Kw's. Now, most houses won't need a 20Kw heat package ( we use to call 'em Toaster packages, cause thats basically what they are ) a 5Kw or 10Kw will do the job. Just keep in mind, while your 'toaster' is running, so is the compressor, outdoor fan, and indoor fan. and every, 45 to 90 minutes, the entire system goes into air conditioning mode to "defrost" the outdoor unit. These things are not cheap to use.

here's kinda, how this works. Refrigerants, like R410, R22, and the new R209 ( which, I believe is actually propane ~~~no shit ) are all at minus 40ish degrees. all energy flows from HOT to COLD. so air that is 20° still has energy ( heat ) that the refrigerant can absorb. Therefore, if you run the refrigerant through a coil, it will absorb that energy, and if you do the opposite in your home, it will release that energy in the form of warm(ish) air.
Now, heres the rub. many people want to feel HOT air coming from their registers. Oil will blast out 130°-140° air, a hi-efficient gas furnace will put out 110-120° air. a Heat pump will trickle out 90 to 100° air. So HVAC contractors will be getting a lot of "come look at this thing, its not putting out hot air like my old furnace" complaints. when in fact the system is working as designed. anytime I replaced a furnace with a HP I warned people about this very issue.

but, if the power company, or god forbid the government takes over the power company, your current utility bill of $150 to $250 will be closer to $600., or more. and that assuming **they** can keep the electrons flowing.

Now there is ONE MORE PROBLEM, no one is talking about. your whole house, stand-by generator. That expensive piece of equipment is now a giant paper weight. I have no illusion that the communist leaders of the future will literally turn off the gas, at some point. So you'all will be at the mercy of the government.

damn, how did this little diatribe get so long, sorry for the rant

They say they will keep them running but what most aren’t thinking about is your current back up generator large enough to run the HP on the coldest day of the year in NYS? I’d say no.
Also keep in mind you’ll have to pay for grid upgrades and you’ll still have to pay your gas supply charge that will likely increase becuase they aren’t making money off selling you gas. The intelligence is so lacking in the country it’s not even funny.

 

[Jmac00]

I feel bad for the poor bastards with a 100 year old house with HHB retrofitted in say the 70's with a hot water maker with a maxed out 100A panel. No ductwork to put a air to air HP in and a air to water only makes like 120 degree water, My shower water is hotter. Speaking of showers your hot water maker isn't going to work for shit, spend more money. A 10 ton HP is probably 30-40 amps on its own, a service upgrade would be in order.
A $4000 furnace job is going to turn into $10000+++ and not work as well in the end. We wont even get into the infrastructure issues to make this nonsense even happen.

more like 60 amps. just for the toaster ( heat package/ air handler )then you'll need a 30amp for the outdoor unit. Most homes will only need a 2½ to 3 ton system. The largest you can get in a residence is 5ton ( 60,000 btu ) if the house needs more than that, it will usually have two systems already installed

But you are correct, anyone with a hydronic heating system and boiler are about to be very pissed off. Their only option will be a mini-split with multiple heads, they're probably looking at close to $20,000 systems. it would cost even more to try and remove all the piping and install ductwork

 

[SonOfSun]

Yes but no. Standard heat pumps don't work below 40 degrees, though they have developed cold climate heat pumps that buy you another 20-30 degrees. They're still not good as a sole heat source because the electric backup is NOT efficient.

Wrong. I know for a fact there are heat pumps that work down to 5F at 100% of rated efficiency.hone. do I know? I helped my dad install one in his home.

LGRED Heat Technology - LG Air Conditioning Technologies

 

[Saltwater60]

more like 60 amps. just for the toaster ( heat package/ air handler )then you'll need a 30amp for the outdoor unit. Most homes will only need a 2½ to 3 ton system. The largest you can get in a residence is 5ton ( 60,000 btu ) if the house needs more than that, it will usually have two systems already installed

But you are correct, anyone with a hydronic heating system and boiler are about to be very pissed off. Their only option will be a mini-split with multiple heads, they're probably looking at close to $20,000 systems. it would cost even more to try and remove all the piping and install ductwork

Wow. 100 amps just for the heater. Then what do you need to the on demand tankless electric hot water heater? The one I looked at was another 100 amps so I went with gas. The cost will be astounding.
I can’t wait for some do gooder to try and get one in Buffalo in winter when their gas unit dies after 2030 and it’s oh sorry we need to upgrade your panel and that will be a week or more, we need a new line ran to you house with a mast pipe because it’s too heavy to screw into your home now, they may need a new transformer, and it will be a month for your heat pump. Don’t forget to drain your plumbing lines so they don’t freeze and get a hotel room for a month.
Or you’ll be staring at the ugly units all over your house. Yuck.
Also what do you do with the holes in your floors?

 

[PTammo]

I heat with an outdoor wood boiler (BANNED). I have backup woodstoves in the house and garage (both older style..BANNED). Also have another woodstove put away as backup (also BANNED). If the boiler shits out I will go to PA and buy another. I stopped following their stupid bullshit laws years ago.

That's insane, what is going on in NY!?

 

[PTammo]

My mini fusion reactor is almost completed...I'm going to be rich....

Wish we actually had those

 

[Saltwater60]

Wrong. I know for a fact there are heat pumps that work down to 5F at 100% of rated efficiency.hone. do I know? I helped my dad install one in his home.

LGRED Heat Technology - LG Air Conditioning Technologies

Just curious what’s the cost to install and run it? The anwser to this seems a bit elusive. I can find a lot of stuff that says your energy needs will increase to this but they never say how much it actually saved or the reduction in natural gas use.
Does he like it? Has it been reliable? How difficult was it to install? I’m not a fan but I do t have all the information. Also what area of the country does your dad live in?

 

[Jsmegs77]

LOL, I actually did this for a customer, about 20 years ago. he was the Brighton Town Arborist. He knew everyone in the logging industry and was one of the first people to warn of the Ash borer beetle.

a word of caution. two things, get a really good filter on your furnace and a really BIG, the largest you can find, humidifier. That wood burner will dry you house out in no time. Hard wood cabinet doors will warp/crack, real wood floors are going to shrink, all kinds of bad things will happen.

Just a heads up

I actually lived in a house in VA with this exact setup, that had 3 Aprilaire humidifiers in the supply ducting downstream of the furnace. It was still very dry in the house when the furnace was kicking.

 

[1075tech]

PSA - Beware of HVAC techs... I have stories. Everything from dangerous shit to flat out rip offs. One example is my neighbor had a furnace installed by a HAVC tech(s) and the PVC exhaust pipe was never glued at an elbow and the pipe separated. I only discovered it when I went into his basement to put in a new sump pump for him. I heard a whoosh of air that didn't sound right and then noticed the separated PVC pipe. The neighbor bought his first co2 detector the next day. I went over his whole furnace checking things out. Then I find that the gas pressure coming out of the gas valve was way too high. Don't ever trust the factory settings. If I know that, a HVAC tech does.

Yep. Once went on a service call. Lady said she had her HVAC contractor there who told her it was a gas pressure problem and to call her supplier. Took his $350 fee and left.

I got there, and as I always did, checked the tank first. Yep. Out of gas. So yeah, it was a pressure problem. There wasn't any. She was pissed that he charged her and replaced parts that were fine

 

[Cavalry]

This decree goes much farther than just fucking us over heating our homes. This also includes transportation. By their own admission only .5% of the 10 million registered light vehicles in NY are zero emission. By 2030 that number must be 30%. 3 million cars just in NY in 7 years. Yeah ok, where are they going to come from? 2030 is also the year that its electric only, no more ICE light vehicles new sales, as well as 40% of medium and heavy trucks be non emission.
Then there is this gem" substantial portion of personal transportation in urbanized areas would be required to shift to public transportation and other low-carbon modes."
Whatever they are smoking I want some.

 

[ManualF150]

People will need 400 amp service to their good sized residence for:

HVAC 4 ton -- 40 amps
Stove/Dryer -- 80 amps
General Use -- 50 amps
Hot Water Heater -- 40 amps
Fast Charging Electric Car Charging System (multiple if you own more than 1 car) -- 80 amps
For those on a well, add another 20 amps -- 20 amps

Brings this total to 300 amps IF you happen to be using all at the same time.

Which to be honest, other than the electric car charger (don't own one), I have used my HVAC, stove, dryer, hot water heater, and well pump all at the same time... so it is possible in a residence. I got an energy monitor meter on my panel and I've got it up to a continuous 180+ amps for minutes at a time. It doesn't happen all the time, but on rare occasions have I seen myself pulling so much power that the meter box outside is humming from the amp draw.

 

[livingston]

Total destruction of this country

 

[Cavalry]

I actually lived in a house in VA with this exact setup, that had 3 Aprilaire humidifiers in the supply ducting downstream of the furnace. It was still very dry in the house when the furnace was kicking.

I tried the whole house wick type humidifiers, they really didnt work well and are a constant maintenance issue. I went to steam humidification. Its more money upfront and the boilers are not cheap to replace but they work the tits.

 

[Cavalry]

People will need 400 amp service to their good sized residence for:

Good thing I am not going electric. My service is already maxed out if I'm welding while the plasma table is running.

 

[Jmac00]

I do all my own stuff, always have, I'm lucky to have the skills to do pretty much anything residential home related. What I mean by lucky is I grew up on a farm. Because of that, I learned how to deal with electrical, plumbing, and more at an early age. We did almost everything ourselves back then. Self sufficient.

I installed my new gas furnace 3 years ago. Made any adjustments needed like the in/out gas pressure at the valve etc and so on. But the thing to consider with new installations or even repairs other than if you have the skills required. Is your homeowner's insurance and how that is affected if something goes wrong.

I actually have more trust in myself than in a contractor that I have never met before and have no idea how sound his methods are.



PSA - Beware of HVAC techs... I have stories. Everything from dangerous shit to flat out rip offs. One example is my neighbor had a furnace installed by a HAVC tech(s) and the PVC exhaust pipe was never glued at an elbow and the pipe separated. I only discovered it when I went into his basement to put in a new sump pump for him. I heard a whoosh of air that didn't sound right and then noticed the separated PVC pipe. The neighbor bought his first co2 detector the next day. I went over his whole furnace checking things out. Then I find that the gas pressure coming out of the gas valve was way too high. Don't ever trust the factory settings. If I know that, a HVAC tech does.

Another one is, a co worker called me and said that the HVAC tech is there at his place.
The tech replaced the ignitor first and then told my co worker that to come to find out that isn't the problem and he needs a new gas valve. I told my co worker that doesn't sound right to me (for reasons.) I also mentioned to him that at a certain sequence of operation the gas valve should make an audible click that you can hear. He said that he's not sure but thinks that he heard it when down stairs checking on the HAVC tech's progress. I told him to stop the process and that I will be over in a little while to check things out. Come to find out there was no problem with his gas valve. The ignitor "was" the issue and the tech was trying to rip the guy off. This was around 4 years ago and that same gas valve is still working.

I do not mean to slam any HVAC techs that may be on this forum. I can think of one NYGF member for sure. I have been working in automotive repair shops for most of my adult life. I know as well as anyone, that the bad ones give the whole industry a bad name. One other thing is no matter how good or experienced someone is. They won't get every initial diagnosis correct every single time. Not when you are doing it almost every day, year after year, job after job. These things happen, ask me how I know. What I'm getting at is a misdiagnosis isn't necessarily nefarious.

Just because someone is a licensed pro doesn't mean that you should trust their work or their honesty IMO. I'm just saying. I trust myself more than anyone. So I do all my own installations or repairs.

LOL that ain't no shit. One of my biggest complaints was the big boys started to pay their techs $15/hour, BUT, they gave the tech a "piece of the bill" he had guys making 100 grand a year

as to your GV issue. what I used to see a LOT of, was the gas valve would open, the burners would ignite, and then go out within 3 or 4 seconds. "the other guys" would come in and tell the customer, you need a new gas valve, it was going to cost you $600 plus labor/service call, all that shit, that bill would hit $900 in the blink of an eye. When the REAL problem was the $30 flame sensor total bill from me. $150.

I had one guy call me up and say, I'm getting estimate to "zone my duct work" can you come look at it ~~~sure no problem

when I got there, the real issue was lack of air flow? I said "give me an hour, lets do some math and see if we can't figure out the real problem here. This was Goodman 3 ton system with a 94% efficient 100K btu furnace.

I spent THREE hours going over the system, doing the math, making sure the duct work was the correct size, the heat runs were the correct size, checking the venting system, blah,blah,blah.....when it finally dawned on me what the REAL PROBLEM WAS. It was so simple I nearly slapped myself for not checking the simple shit first. it was in the wiring

In the old Goodman furnaces, you can hook up the a/c by running the a/c t'stat wires from the stat, (C and Y) *C* to the furnace and the "Y" wire from the stat directly to the outdoor unit. from the outdoor unit back to *C*

In a more modern furnace, you must tell the furnace there is an a/c outside. so all the wires must to be connected to the LVCB ( low voltage control board) R--G--Y--C. Then bring two control wires from the outdoor unit to C--& --Y on the LVCB That way the furnace knows to bring the fan up to the correct speed. If you did it the old way, the furnace doesn't know there is an air conditioner out there and the fan will stay at low speed. the a/c will still run, but the house will never get cool. Thats what the original crew did, they wired it the old way, and never checked it? After figuring out the real problem. I LITERALLY spent 90 seconds re-wiring the fucking furnace and boom.....massive air flow. I asked how long its been like this, the guy says, since they installed it, SEVEN YEARS AGO?? I was stunned? The next day the same dude calls me and says, "this thing is running spectacularly, but now the wife is complaining its to noisy, to much air flow..... I didn't know what to say for a couple seconds, then he laughed and said, don't worry about it, she'll get over it, now that the house is actually cold for once. Im recommending you to everyone I meet. He did to, I got a lot of new customers from that guy, LOL

 

[Deplorable Me]

When are they going to figure out that the distribution networks to the cities and neighborhoods are dated, antique and not big enough to handle the increased load. There are a lot of houses out there with 100 amp and 150 amp service. 200 amp service is on a nominal new build home with AC and a gad furnace. Are we looking at 400 amp for electric heat, AC, car charger, stove and water heater? The grid has been stressed for years. How about farms and people with out buildings? Natural gas generators?

Can't wait to see what kinds of industries get shut down, ones that rely on natural gas as part of their processes.

 

[ManualF150]

Good thing I am not going electric. My service is already maxed out running I'm welding while the plasma table is running.

I didn't include that in mine. I know that it's intermittent, but if I get going on a long weld, it can be continuous for a few minutes. lol

I was thinking in terms of average households. It just isn't feasible.

Just like someone else already said, a lot of places around me (old farm houses) at rigged at 100 amps. A lot still using fuses and some still using rubber coated wiring...

If the government really cared about us, it would be mandated to have a wood burning appliance as a secondary heat source in conjunction to an electric furnace as the primary. So if the power went out, the household could still have heat and also be able to cook food in event of an emergency or catastrophe.

Not to change the subject, but you never know, we could be in a war-time status again. You want back ups of back ups. Trust me. I lived with folks that experienced the Cold War era. We are headed in that direction. If I'm wrong, them I'm wrong (it'll be a good thing!).

 

[camper4lyfe]

Wish we actually had those

Still a long ways away for that. The newest source of fusion is about the size of 4 football fields.

 

[HIghlander]

My 50+ year old boiler still runs perfect. The wood burning insert provides most of our heat. Only thing I might get screwed on is the hot water tank. Could always go to pa for a new natural gas one when the time comes. My pto powered generator is already oversized a bit so I don’t have to worry about that yet. And I power it with old, reliable, pre emissions diesel tractors. I am curious to see how you would efficiently heat a large shop space/garage with electric heat.