So since @NYGuns was nice enough to give me a forum section figured I'd start off with his new shed.
Not much to see at the moment spent the last couple of days getting the base ready for gravel. Had to dig down a little more than expected and go up another level due to contour of ground. The roots were a PITA lol. Everything is glued with PL construction adhesive and nailed with 6" 60D timber tie nails. I set it on thin bed of S-type mortar not so much for strength but more to fill any voids. Square to about 1/16" over 8' and dead level. Gravel coming tomorrow.
The three stakes to right will be footers for 3 4x4 posts that will support a shed style roof coming off main shed to cover a wood stack. Hoping to get 3 chords of wood maybe another face chord underneath.
Shed will be 10' x 12' with 8' tall walls. Main doors will be 6-1/2' wide by nearly 7' tall to accommodate a new side-by-side all terrain vehicle (which is awesome btw). Going to build my own roof trusses in such a way that leaves alot of headroom for a loft for additional storage.
I guess budget is important but also one doesn't have to spend a lot to get a decent foundation.
Most of the filler I used was scrap from previous demolition like loose rocks and pieces of brick and tile and then the mortar with HTC or silicone.
What about wrapping those posts so they last? Wood needs to breath but protecting them from the bottom will make them last a lot longer.
I went with crushed stone underneath 6"x 6" marine grade CCA .60 for my shed 'foundation'. Not so sure I'd be comfortable with CCA .40 for ground contact for a foundation. With the proper drainage underneath I'm sure it'd be fine for 15 yrs. though.
Those 4X4 are surely ground rated. I know people talk about the new formula for PT lumber but I'd be very surprised if that rots out before most of us reading this are either very old or dead. Unlike down south a few months of its life each year the critters, insects etc. will be dead/hibernated as well.
They are set on a thin bed of mortar. Inside will be gravel. Outside is above grade for most part. The whole structure will have a roof overhanging which should keep things relatively dry. Wrapping introduces it's own set of problems. I'll figure something out maybe pick up some preservative and treat before filling... I have some aluminum flashing could line inside with but not sure if I have enough. Outside can be treated later. Thanks guys appreciate input.
We're using GAF Tiger Paw for Roof underlayment (no Ice & Water which. would be my preference, for budget and also not needed as structure is not heated). Tiger Paw is a polypropylene synthetic underlayment. Maybe will pick roll up tomorrow and line inside with it as a roll will have plenty left over anyway. I get what you're saying. Thanks.
Man, you should see me "go", as in spend 10 hours thinking for each hour of work. When I did my last basement I replaced the blanket insulation with 2" foam sheets, but I actually bevel cut the bottom of each sheet by 15 degrees or so with the long side against the wall, down into the perimeter drain a touch, so that if I ever had water come through the block and it drained down the foam it would be ensured to get into the drain instead of coming back out under the foam. Then of course I great stuffed the bottom seam. That's one of the most obsessive unnecessary things i've done.
I built an 8X12' shed and used 2X6' joists with joist hangers. Pretty sure I did 12" OC.
I just boxed out a window egress for the basement but now the bottom of that box is about 35" from bottom of foundation footing. The frost line is around 30-36" in western NY, but with heat dump from the house next to it I'd be surprised if that little window section ever got frost more than a foot. Nonetheless, I'm going to put 2" foam at the bottom of it, under the gravel just because I can't help myself.
I don't like many foundations I see but that is just me.
for sheds is kind of a tradeoff because if it is not a permanent structure like a house you don't need to over do it but at the same time I have seen them being better to become pest nests under the floor than actual sheds. lol. I am also worried about the rot too.
If it is not heated and w.o power or for any serous workshop there and just to store a few yard tools that should be more than plenty.
Also if you have to have it close to ground level to avoid long or troublesome ramps this is a good system.
I would consider a 2nd leyer of pt lumber and joined with galvanized spikes and also lots of 6” gravel deep below the lumber just for good
Anyway it is easy to have opinions when one is not putting the work nor the budget lol....
cgrutt is a master at this so we should all watch and learn.
Hey appreciate the kind words but I'm learning everyday. Lots of knowledge to be had within these pages...
I had similar "shed" at my prior residence but it was built much differently for a different purpose. If cost were not a factor I'd be incorporating some of those features here but it is what it is and I'm excited to be contributing. I'm sure the base is good for 15 yrs. The shed will be good for alot more with maintenance. Not sure how much more to expect from something like this.
I went to Lowes in Chester today because it was closer than Newburgh. What a crappy selection of lumber lol. They only had 1 4x4x12 (I needed 10) and it was badly cupped so used 8' that were in relatively good shape but required more work. I used Massco (?) before but honestly didn't get better service there although they did stock product you cant get at big box stores.
Pressure treated wood, that is rated for ground contact, is supposed to last for 40 years, as long as it is kept dry. It is water that destroys pressure treated wood. Just look at many decks that are falling apart after a few years. As long as your roof overhang keeps water off your base sleepers I would expect that your shed will out last you. If the ground around your base is always wet or has poor drainage, then you may end up with a problem after 8 or 10 years. Just my thoughts. I'm no expert. I built this shed on pressure treated sleepers with a pressure treated 3/4" plywood floor, but I have major drainage issues on my property. So I put down a gravel base first and then raised the sleepers off the ground a little in order to level the base and help keep it as dry as possible. I also put an overhang on the roof to keep rain water from running down the walls to the sleepers. I also have one of those prefab Amish sheds that was here when I bought this place 18 years ago and it is still standing. Go figure. The pictures are the shed that I built in 2012.
I think so. I see mention of 4' and that's what inspectors want, but I don't think it ever gets close. I have found a document from national institute weather or something that indicated more like 30-32. Some are deeper than this, but some are absurdly deep. It takes weeks of brutal cold to get down to 4'.
As for the frost line near a heated structure, such as a house with a basement, the frost line is much higher than this, as so much heat is dumped out of the house into the soil.