So you build with the old adage measure once, cut twice?
Nope, I made it for 6' (after it's trimmed) and it's exactly 6'. Problem is memory, it should have been 6-1/2' from when we discussed it, LMAO... My bad I'll fix it.
So you build with the old adage measure once, cut twice?
Nope, I made it for 6' (after it's trimmed) and it's exactly 6'. Problem is memory, it should have been 6-1/2' from when we discussed it, LMAO... My bad I'll fix it.
Just playing with ya buddy. You know that.
Of course no worries! I'm just saying it was my memory that failed not the measuring, lol...
Gravel will spread the load better and be less susceptible to settling issues.Well I'm a little late to this thread, but I have one of these to build this summer myself. My question goes all the way back to the beginning. Whats your opinion on doing the gravel like you did or blocking up the wood floor? I can't decide what method I want to use.
I guess I should add the caveat that I don't plan on this structure being permanent more of a stepping stone until I build my actual garage. I am a little worried about settling of the gravel with that route because I would probably have to build a retaining wall to keep the gravel in place. It will be built on a sloping section, I haven't measured how much but I wouldn't be surprised if it has 6" variance.
How about building on posts, like you would a deck? If you sink the footings, settling and frost heave isn't an issue. Plenty of unimpeded runoff space underneath.I guess I should add the caveat that I don't plan on this structure being permanent more of a stepping stone until I build my actual garage. I am a little worried about settling of the gravel with that route because I would probably have to build a retaining wall to keep the gravel in place. It will be built on a sloping section, I haven't measured how much but I wouldn't be surprised if it has 6" variance.
This is why I use screws. Much easier to unscrew than year out with nails. I’m no pro some I do make these mistakes too.Oh, and I screwed up the door opening. Was supposed to be 6-1/2' I made it 6' so we agreed to make it 7' lol... Hey, go big or go home! My bad, no worries, easy fix just have to tear out and replace the header and a couple studs and all will be good...
Gravel is about $50/yard after the materials and delivery. If you get more delivery is a bit less of a factor. I just got 3 yards and it cost me $150. Move the camper back off the garage onto the mud pit. Now I can get my lawn furniture out.10x12x8' (to top plate approx. 11' to bottom chord of trusses. material cost +/- $3,500. Don't know cost of gravel we used 3 yards. No windows and self built doors. This includes cost of materials for an attached woodshed with roof.
Sawsall. LolThis is why I use screws. Much easier to unscrew than year out with nails. I’m no pro some I do make these mistakes too.
Sawsall. Lol
I use screws, too. they are accurate, provide better pullout; easier to fix if a mistake made. I use GRK from Home Depot for basically everything. They are much pricier than nails, but they are structural rated and not brittle like decking or drywall screws.This is why I use screws. Much easier to unscrew than year out with nails. I’m no pro some I do make these mistakes too.
That’s what I use. Those spax bit screws are awesome. I literally have probably 5-6 different packages around plus I love the leftover containers. Very handy.I use screws, too. they are accurate, provide better pullout; easier to fix if a mistake made. I use GRK from Home Depot for basically everything. They are much pricier than nails, but they are structural rated and not brittle like decking or drywall screws.
I know it always just tears up the wood so it’s pain in the rear end. Plus I have a bad shoulder/rotator cuff so swinging a hammer overhead is not an option for me anymore. Hell sinking a screw is tough enough but a good dewalt 20v impact driver has helped immensely.Sawsall. Lol
CG, the door header needs just one tiny cripple above it to perform some function.