Smith & Wesson managed to fix my revolver.......after an age

[Podmonkey]

Good question and sadly one that I can’t answer. I don’t think that I can recall ever reading on any of the various sites that I’m on anyone ever installing a fiber optic site on a ported revolver .
However, I have read many times on the Smith & Wesson sites that a Lot of folks have installed the gold bead front sight to great satisfaction.

Yes, I have also considered a gold bead sight as an alternative. There is one from SDM that would fit the bill. I am also planning on getting the Brownells Competition Rear Sight Blade to pair with it. This item would provide a deeper, slightly wider rrear notch and I think these two items would provide me the improved sight picture I'm looking for. Neither of these products are very expensive either.

 

[Podmonkey]

So come to find out just around the corner from me is a part time gunsmith, highly regarded in the community, who also happens to be a member at my range. He heads up the various youth .22 and trap leagues in fact. Anyhoo I was over there to drop off a rifle for some minor work and I asked him his thoughts regarding the fiber optic sight. He is firmly of the opinion that the sight would ve totally fine. I'll mull it over a bit between going with a fiber optic or gold bead. Maybe I'll put up a poll thread later on.

 

[4WHLDRFTN]

The shop owner said "this is a PC model, there shouldn't be problems, it's not like you bought a Taurus. "
I says
"I bet you if I bought a Taurus we wouldn't be shipping it back!"

Get your shit together Smith & Wesson!

I like when a clueless fk still believes that Taurus makes bad guns. They had a couple back in the ‘80’s. Sig has had more recalls on ther garbage in the last 2yrs.

 

[Podmonkey]

Little update: While I got off to a rocky start with the L-Comp I have since developed a love affair with the thing. I shoot it very accurately, it hasn't skipped a beat since I got it back. I have also been carrying regularly:

 

[Podmonkey]

As you can see it conceals very well under just a light vest, it's quite comfortable too except when seated in a car where it digs in a bit.
The holster is a basic one from 1791 Gunleather, thumbbreak is due to my wanting it for woods hiking and being a heavier gun I wouldn't trust it to stay put when climbing around. The pouch is just a cheapo one from Amazon, I have a fancier one on order that will be coming in a few weeks.
The position of the holster and pouch seems to work very well, concealable, comfortable and access to the speedloader is convenient.
I also got a quantity of snap caps and have been doing drawstroke and reload practice a d it's going well. I am training myself on Massad Atoob's stressfire reload as it has the most natural feel for me. I can get it done relatively quickly at thus point.

 

[Podmonkey]

No money for .357 ammo last week but I spent a lot of time working on my drawstoke and reloads. My reload time is down to about 5 seconds. It's easy to try to go too fast and end up fumbling it.

 

[Podmonkey]

@S&W Fan remember when I said I wasn't super keen on how those Pachmayr wood grips felt? Well I fired another hundred 158gr PPU 357s and HOLY CRAP! It was like trying to hold onto a bar of wet soap! I had terrible control of the gun, under recoil tge web of my thumb would ride all the way up to the hammer and I had to re-aquire my grip after every shot. The certainly looked nice but as soon as I got home I immediately took them off and put the Hogue Bantam grips back on. I think I will stick with the Bantams, maybe I'll try the rubber mono grips if they are just slightly larger, but I shoot the L-Comp well with the Batams on and they conceal better to boot.

 

[S&W Fan]

@S&W Fan remember when I said I wasn't super keen on how those Pachmayr wood grips felt? Well I fired another hundred 158gr PPU 357s and HOLY CRAP! It was like trying to hold onto a bar of wet soap! I had terrible control of the gun, under recoil tge web of my thumb would ride all the way up to the hammer and I had to re-aquire my grip after every shot. The certainly looked nice but as soon as I got home I immediately took them off and put the Hogue Bantam grips back on. I think I will stick with the Bantams, maybe I'll try the rubber mono grips if they are just slightly larger, but I shoot the L-Comp well with the Batams on and they conceal better to boot.

I don’t think that I’ve ever had a set of the Pachmayr wooden grips in my hand . The feedback on other sites about the grips are similar to yours unfortunately. The performance Ctr. Should go back to the tried and true Pachmyr combat style rubber grips that so many preferred on the magnum revolvers .

 

[Podmonkey]

How often is it recommended to pop open the side plate for light cleaning and lubrication of the the parts therein? I have been doing a lot of dry fire and drawstroke/reload training lately, and I do mean A LOT of dry fire, and noticed that the triggercwas feeling gritty. Concerned that my dry fire has been too excessive I thought I ought to pop open the side plate to look for wear. Never having looked into the guts of a revolver before and getting over the alarm of seeing the spaghetti mess of tiny clockwork parts contained within I looked for any signs of excessive or unusual wear. I used my magnifier visor and didn't see anything obviously wrong other than the factory grease seemed a little sludgy. I blew the works out with some canned air and liberally doused the internals with Ballistol. I then carefully and tightly wrapped then gun up in a rag and turned it over to drain for a bit, hit it again with some more air and put everything back together. The trigger is once again velvety smooth but I'm wondering how often one should do this. I'd prefer not to go messing around in there anymore than necessary. So far I have 600 rounds through and this is the first time I've had the side plate off. Up till now I have just been wiping down the exterior and scrubbing the carbon off the cylinder face and cleaning the barrel out.

 

[fresch]

As needed.
Don't start "polishing" internal parts, some can be just steel others case hardened. You would need to look up what is what.

 

[kev74]

When there's a problem, address it. Otherwise you don't need to mess with it.

 

[S&W Fan]

As needed.
Don't start "polishing" internal parts, some can be just steel others case hardened. You would need to look up what is what.

When there's a problem, address it. Otherwise you don't need to mess with it.

Both good answers. I’d say that you shouldn’t have to do it any more than what you’ve already done now. If you continue to dry fire excessively along with more range time you’ll know when it’s time. It shouldn’t be very often though. Hell I’ve got some that I’ve only pulled the side plate off of once , shortly after purchasing it. Several hundred plus rounds later and they’re still butter smooth.

 

[FP1201]

Both good answers. I’d say that you shouldn’t have to do it any more than what you’ve already done now. If you continue to dry fire excessively along with more range time you’ll know when it’s time. It shouldn’t be very often though. Hell I’ve got some that I’ve only pulled the side plate off of once , shortly after purchasing it. Several hundred plus rounds later and they’re still butter smooth.

Old timers used to urge you to "dry fire" as much and long as you can stand; build muscle and breaks in the action.

 

[Robin]

Grit, flush the shit out with some WD-40 and high pressure air. If you do decide to remove the side plate, drill and tap it for a grease fitting, and please use a screwdriver that is meant for the purpose, not to much on a nice looking gun uglier than a buggered up screw head.
Robin

 

[FP1201]

Grit, flush the shit out with some WD-40 and high pressure air. If you do decide to remove the side plate, drill and tap it for a grease fitting, and please use a screwdriver that is meant for the purpose, not to much on a nice looking gun uglier than a buggered up screw head.
Robin

And tap the opposite side of the Frame to remove the Side Plate; do not pry against it...few good taps with a phenolic handled screwdriver will jar it loose.

 

[Podmonkey]

And tap the opposite side of the Frame to remove the Side Plate; do not pry against it...few good taps with a phenolic handled screwdriver will jar it loose.

I had to look that up actually. I knew it would be bad to pry on it. The technique I saw was to rap the grip frame with the back end of a screwdriver. I used one with a rubberized handle, popped right off too.