ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
Have to figure out a sling solution as well.
My Mossberg 500 and Ruger PCC coolification project
- Thread starter ArmedCorgi
- Start date
BDinPutnam
.475 A&M Magnum
Something based on (canvas) OD web gear?
Curmudgeon
.308 Win
Love what you're doing to your mossy OP. Thanks for sharing.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
A standard GI sling is a thought.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
So as I am coming to find out, my heat shield will not fit on the 590A1 barrel. I mean, I can get the shield on the barrel but the screw holes in front will not line up and even if they did, the barrel itself is too thick and blocks the screws path. As far as I know, they only make a shield for the 590A1 that has the regular bead front sight and not the ghost ring rear/front tower sights that my set up has. This is a bummer because the shield looks so bad ass. There must be some way to fasten this thing on there without using glue or something that will leave a permanent scar if removed.
Sixbennetts
.45 acp
I fought with mine long and hard. There was NO way to put the bolts through, even after bending the bolt. And trying to keep from scratching/denting it kinda went against what I did with mine. Here's how I mounted mine.
1. Forget the front for a bit, and work on the rear ears. I used padded Robogrips, Vice-Grips, and a C clamp to get those ears perfect. Don't forget to twist them slightly to allow for the barrel taper.
Next step is to put your bolt in the front before you install the shield on the barrel. Again reshape as needed before sliding the heat shield on.
3. Align it and tap it into place with a hammer and a piece of wood, or a rubber mallet.
Mine ain't coming off. Ever. But new barrels are easy to find, so...
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
The problem is I cannot slide the shield onto the barrel since this model barrel has a fixed front sight post. If it were just a bead I could unscrew, it would be different.
I think my best bet would be to bore out the existing holes in the front tab so that the screws can sit lower and clear the barrel. The only thing is doing so leaves little material between the screw hole and the edge of the tab. It's that or I add material to the tab and drill holes in that but again, there is only so much room to work with.
BDinPutnam
.475 A&M Magnum
Pics for us amateur engineers?
I think @GUNSICK fixed this problem on his too but IIRC it was a Shockwave like @Sixbennetts' too, not a 590, so might be a little different in terms of a fix.
I think @GUNSICK fixed this problem on his too but IIRC it was a Shockwave like @Sixbennetts' too, not a 590, so might be a little different in terms of a fix.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
I have to pick up the hardware, which I plan on doing today. I will post up pics later on.
BDinPutnam
.475 A&M Magnum
I assume you will want to stick with coolification rather than trailer park but how about ratcheting plumbing clamps? 
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
I'm going to pretend you never said that, lol. I'd be better off using JB Weld.I assume you will want to stick with coolification rather than trailer park but how about ratcheting plumbing clamps?
BDinPutnam
.475 A&M Magnum
Haha, Gorilla Glue and zip ties.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
How post apocalyptic.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
Oh, I also scored an OEM Mossberg rear ghost ring sight on ebay. Should be here this week. Man, I'm spending a lot on this project, lol.
BDinPutnam
.475 A&M Magnum
That's going to look awesome I think.
And yes I am on NYGF procrastinating over doing chores, lol.
And yes I am on NYGF procrastinating over doing chores, lol.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
So got the shield mounted. My first attempt at boring the holes out proved to be just not enough, so I had to go wider.
Here are the original factory holes.
And my first attempt.
Had to go wider.
TA-DAH!!!!!!
After tightening the screws down so the shield was solid against the barrel, I am left with a little over an 1/8" amount of screw sticking out. Going to have to dremel it off and probably put a little dab of some kind of glue on the screw ends to help keep them from backing out.
Here are the original factory holes.
And my first attempt.
Had to go wider.
TA-DAH!!!!!!
After tightening the screws down so the shield was solid against the barrel, I am left with a little over an 1/8" amount of screw sticking out. Going to have to dremel it off and probably put a little dab of some kind of glue on the screw ends to help keep them from backing out.
BDinPutnam
.475 A&M Magnum
Sweet!
Have to do something about the finish on those screws and washers tho.
ETA I'm glad you managed to get it on. I really like that front sight.
Have to do something about the finish on those screws and washers tho.
ETA I'm glad you managed to get it on. I really like that front sight.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
I'm thinking cut the screw ends off and just paint them dark grey or black. The paint should also be enough to keep the screws from backing out, without being as perminant as glue.
Sixbennetts
.45 acp
Ok, here's a couple suggestions, (and yes, it does in fact contain plumbing clamps!)
Reshape the rear ears by trial and fit, get them as close as possible.
Change the shape of the front ears from a light bulb shape to an upside down U shape by straightening the front ears. This will make them just a touch longer, and able to be bolted.
Use a all metal clamp to suck the rear ears as tight as you can, then heat the ears, tighten, heat, tighten. By expanding the metal with heat and clamping super tight, when it cools down it should be pretty snug.
The reshaped front ears should be done after the rear cools completely. Leave the rear clamp on.
Put the two bolts through and tighten. Heat, tighten, heat, tighten. Your front ears should reshape themselves in this process because of the heat and bolts.
Basically, you're using heat and pressure to form fit after installation. Just hot enough that you need gloves to handle it, not cherry red! Steel has many degrees of malleability, depending on temperature. You want to get to the point where you can see the gaps getting smaller, but not so hot you discolor the steel. This is the riddle of steel, boy.
After I was done, I flooded the space between with 3in1 oil, let it sit a while, then blew out the excess with an air compressor nozzle.
Reshape the rear ears by trial and fit, get them as close as possible.
Change the shape of the front ears from a light bulb shape to an upside down U shape by straightening the front ears. This will make them just a touch longer, and able to be bolted.
Use a all metal clamp to suck the rear ears as tight as you can, then heat the ears, tighten, heat, tighten. By expanding the metal with heat and clamping super tight, when it cools down it should be pretty snug.
The reshaped front ears should be done after the rear cools completely. Leave the rear clamp on.
Put the two bolts through and tighten. Heat, tighten, heat, tighten. Your front ears should reshape themselves in this process because of the heat and bolts.
Basically, you're using heat and pressure to form fit after installation. Just hot enough that you need gloves to handle it, not cherry red! Steel has many degrees of malleability, depending on temperature. You want to get to the point where you can see the gaps getting smaller, but not so hot you discolor the steel. This is the riddle of steel, boy.
After I was done, I flooded the space between with 3in1 oil, let it sit a while, then blew out the excess with an air compressor nozzle.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
I've already done the boring out and have it mounted to the barrel. I did have to put the rear of the shield into the vice and clamp down to get the rear tabs to snug to the barrel though. They are still not as tight as they could be so I may heat the rear up with my heat gun and clamp it in the vice until it cools.
Sixbennetts
.45 acp
I noticed that! Took me so long to type, you already finished the job! AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
Glad it turned out. I love the heat shield. Great for not burning your hands on a hot barrel, (even if I don't have a bayonet).
Was thinking about your stock. I bet you could steam/bend a piece of wood to the U shape you're looking for to cover it. Need help? Find a local boat builder.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
Just bought this shotgun forend for the purpose of making a wood cover/riser for the M4 buttstock of the Mossy. I'm ditching the green stock caddy. My plan is to cut this shotgun forend so that its a straight half circle and will sit on top of the plastic buttstock just like the caddy did, only this should hug the stock more. I'm thinking this will tie all the wood furniture together and improve the overall look.
I should be receiving the ghost ring rear sight tomorrow as well.
I should be receiving the ghost ring rear sight tomorrow as well.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
As an aside, my girlfriend really likes this project gun and wants to shoot it. I know she can ultimately handle the 12ga, but I want her to enjoy shooting it. So the adaptor that enables reliable cycling of the mini shells is in this gun's near future.
Last edited:
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
Got the ghost ring rear sight installed.
Corgi for scale.
The wooden forend I'll be using to make a cheek piece from should be here by weeks end. Just need to find a band saw to use.
Corgi for scale.
The wooden forend I'll be using to make a cheek piece from should be here by weeks end. Just need to find a band saw to use.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
Received the wooden forend yesterday and brought it to work today to cut it up. It should sit right on top of the M4 stock and make a nice rise/cheek rest. Sanded it roughly for re-staining. Will probably beat it up more as well.
Also, looking at this piece made me think it may also be good to use for a wooden forend for my Ruger PCC! I may just have to buy another shotgun forend and make a forend for my PCC out of it. I have been thinking of doing so for a bit and working on this project has given me renewed inspiration. I'll take pics of it with the PCC when I get home so you all can see what I'm thinking. Obviously, I'll be taking pics of this on the Mossy as well, since that is what this one is for, lol.
Also, looking at this piece made me think it may also be good to use for a wooden forend for my Ruger PCC! I may just have to buy another shotgun forend and make a forend for my PCC out of it. I have been thinking of doing so for a bit and working on this project has given me renewed inspiration. I'll take pics of it with the PCC when I get home so you all can see what I'm thinking. Obviously, I'll be taking pics of this on the Mossy as well, since that is what this one is for, lol.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
Well, here it is mocked up on the Mossy. I'm not sure, but I think I may want something less bulky and smaller for the Mossy because 1. It is kinda bulky and 2. (Most importantly) looks pretty damn rad as a wooden forend for my PCC!!!!.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
Oh yeah, here it is on the Mossy.
BDinPutnam
.475 A&M Magnum
Cut another inch off and move it a little forward maybe?
Sixbennetts
.45 acp
Bad news, guys. Corgi, not sure on your shotgun, but I had to remove my stock adapter, buffer tube, and brace, and reinstall my stock Raptor Grip.
The ATF recently ruled that OAL can't include the tube and brace. I guess it's time to get to the woodshop and make a nice walnut birdshead that doesn't look like a turd.
Here's the letter.
The ATF recently ruled that OAL can't include the tube and brace. I guess it's time to get to the woodshop and make a nice walnut birdshead that doesn't look like a turd.
Here's the letter.