kev74
20×102mm Vulcan
A little light reading....
I just flipped through it. Wow! Very dense!
I just flipped through it. Wow! Very dense!
Starting a "What did you Get today" thread. Let's give it a try (dont forget pics)
- Thread starter Edwardteach72
- Start date
That_FNG
6.5 Creedmoor
Picked up two boxes of Federal punch in 38 special +P. Tried out one box using my Ruger SP101 in 2.25inch barrel to see how it compares agains PPU regular 38 special 120grain, and Remington 357 magnum 125grain. It actually felt like less recoil than the PPU regular 38 special and of course way less recoil than 357 magnum. Less Smokey than either the PPU or the Remington. Very pleasantly surprised by how well it shot and how accurate it was. Definitely going to be using it as carry ammo when I carry my snubbie SP101
two more carry V10s in the queue.
PutnamCharlie
6.5 Creedmoor
Do those frames come serialized or do you put the numbers on yourself? I would like to try my hand at building one but don't want to play this stupid ghost gun game. Thanks
1075tech
.338 Win Mag
I thought you were downsizing
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
What porn mag is that under the pistol frames?
No they are 80% frames no serial numbers until you add them.
My power company sends a monthly magazine about North Carolina. Sometimes there are interesting thing in them.
Parzival
.357 mag
One of these…
It will be pinned and welded to a Griffin 11.5” barrel to keep it from being a two stamp gun.
Now the wait…
It will be pinned and welded to a Griffin 11.5” barrel to keep it from being a two stamp gun.
Now the wait…
At this point you might as well just two stamp it. With Efile form 1’s being relatively quick, SBR’ing it wouldn’t take long. I’m not a fan of welding a suppressor to a barrel. If it’s one you’re building and you don’t want to two stamp it, just build it into a pistol configuration. There’s really not much of positive to welding the can. Welding the can limits your ability to swap it between multiple rifles. Barrels themselves are wear parts and the life span of suppressors tend to be longer than a barrels, so you’ll end up needing to get it chopped off of the barrel if you shoot it out or if the barrel has an issue. Than you run into the issue of having to send out your entire upper if you end up having a baffle strike or require factory maintenance.
Parzival
.357 mag
The plan is to build a complete second upper for my Griffin MK1 Recce. This way I’ll just be able to swap uppers between 16” carbine and 11.5” suppressed depending on situation/location.
Will look something like this when complete.
You could still do these two uppers but don’t weld the can. Just build a pistol or SBR the lower and then you can still use both uppers on it. The front end of the GP5 has wrench flats to allow the user to make sure it’s tight before usage, so you can periodically check it to make sure it’s not backing off. Also tucking a can in theory sounds like a good idea and looks kinda cool but in practice it tends to have issues. With a tucked can it forces the user to always shoot with the suppressor since you can’t take a suppressor off where the muzzle ends somewhere in the middle of a handguard (imagine holding the rail further forward of a bare muzzle and letting a round off, not going to be good for your hand). Another reason to not tuck a suppressor is they get hot and all that heat it going to transfer from the suppressor to the rail and eventually the rail will get so hot that you won’t be able to hold it anyway. A third reason not to tuck a suppressor is the measurement between the outside diameter of a suppressor and the inside diameter of a rail are almost always so close that it does not allow the ability to mount any accessories without them being blocked by the suppressor. Even if you are able to get “enough” clearance to mount accessories through those Mlok slots, the Mlok T-Nuts slots are usually still too close and end up hitting the suppressor during firing because of barrel whip and flexing. Some people run into this same issue with just the suppressor smacking the inside of the rail while firing due to it being so close.
Since you’re not choosing something like a 5.5”/7.5” barrel and trying to use a 13” rail where a vast majority of the suppressor is tucked (which again sounds cool in theory not so much in practice based on my previous statements)…you’d be better off choosing a slightly shorter rail like a 10.7”/10.5” and having the can begin where the rail ends. Using a rail that is slightly shorter is going to be much better than trying to hold a rail that feels like it is on fire. Then with the suppressor no longer tucked your rail isn’t going to be getting nearly as hot and it’s much more enjoyable to shoot. There are plenty of rails out there that would fit the description of what I’m describing that are nice.
Bustedknees
.308 Win
Some lead hunting rounds that will be illegal to use on state land.
Never thought 7-08 would be hard to come by.
Never thought 7-08 would be hard to come by.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
Ut oh...what's this now?? I know I promised myself not another caliber, but....
Looks like I got myself a Cimarron Model P in 45LC.
So far the fit and finish seems to be above my Taylor's & Co. Cattleman in .357.
The lock up and cylinder gap is much tighter and the color case hardening is much darker and bluer than the cattleman.
You notice the weight difference instantly. The 45lc is a lot lighter since there is less barrel and cylinder material.
Just look at those big 45 cal holes, lol.
Looks like I got myself a Cimarron Model P in 45LC.
So far the fit and finish seems to be above my Taylor's & Co. Cattleman in .357.
The lock up and cylinder gap is much tighter and the color case hardening is much darker and bluer than the cattleman.
You notice the weight difference instantly. The 45lc is a lot lighter since there is less barrel and cylinder material.
Just look at those big 45 cal holes, lol.
FRANKIE
6.5 Creedmoor
45LC great choice. Shot that gun on the range one day scored best of any other handgun I shot.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
It's so dang expensive though. I do plan to get a 45 acp cylinder for it, assuming I can find one. This may also end up getting me into hand loading. We'll see.
Wow, Loving those!!
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
Thanks! They really have their place and I think the design is a really beautiful one. I originally wanted one in a 7.5" bbl, but I couldn't find one. Then I decided on a 4.75" bbl that came with an extra 45 acp cylinder, but missed out when I went to buy it. Did some looking and it turns out I can just buy the 45 acp cylinder as a part. So I opted for the 5.5" bbl because I do like that length.
Carlos Hathcock
.450/400 Nitro Ex
Our club is ruffling off another 45 LC firearm. Cimarron lever action......as well as a Trump edition .22.
Attachments
That_FNG
6.5 Creedmoor
in case anyone was wondering, yes you can mount a clown horn on a home defense 8” barrel AR pistol (my buddies gun not mine)
He's going to find out the hard way that the squeeze ball is in a bad location.
Imagine breaking into a house and hearing *Honk honk* before getting clapped.
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
You just might be on to something.
kev74
20×102mm Vulcan
I got mine!
ArmedCorgi
.475 A&M Magnum
Where does one get these horns?
kev74
20×102mm Vulcan
My horn came from the walmart bicycle isle. The holder is a cheapie flashlight holder. There's a little spacer in the bore of the flashlight holder to get the horn to fit.