What do you look for in a flashlight for a carbine?

[Defilade]

This looks real nice. Integrated sleek design.

Optimized Weapon Light - Cloud Defensive

OWL BUY OWL OPTIMIZED WEAPON LIGHT What a weapon light should be. BUY NOW Your weapon light needs to be built around your gun and around your needs. Not the other way around. No more retro-fitting traditional lights to your gun. Bottom line: You should succeed because of your weapon light. Not...

www.clouddefensive.com

 

[Will556]

This looks real nice. Integrated sleek design.

Optimized Weapon Light - Cloud Defensive

OWL BUY OWL OPTIMIZED WEAPON LIGHT What a weapon light should be. BUY NOW Your weapon light needs to be built around your gun and around your needs. Not the other way around. No more retro-fitting traditional lights to your gun. Bottom line: You should succeed because of your weapon light. Not...

www.clouddefensive.com

That was Cloud’s first weapon mounted light. Another tough as shit light. I never bought one only because of the pressure pad being integrated with the light and the inability to push the light further forward. Though it’s very innovative and has lots of nice features.

 

[Edwardteach72]

I'm going to be that guy, cause that's who I am and not ashamed of it.

If you notice that was their last video and they never once used an inforce


***edit*** never mind I lied they did a video on the stupid inforce, it was the first one ha

 

[Will556]

I'm going to be that guy, cause that's who I am and not ashamed of it.

If you notice that was their last video and they never once used an inforce


***edit*** never mind I lied they did a video on the stupid inforce, it was the first one ha

There’s a reason why it was the first one.

 

[Edwardteach72]

There’s a reason why it was the first one.

WhAt aBoUt mY oLiGhT

 

[Will556]

WhAt aBoUt mY oLiGhT

Didn’t even make the list. Probably didn’t what to blow up.

 

[Podmonkey]

I still think the new InForce WILD2 is something I will look into. It has superior light output and its made entirely out of 6061 Aluminum.
I wonder what the specs for the upcoming Modlight PL30 will be?

 

[Edwardteach72]

I wonder what the specs for the upcoming Modlight PL30 will be?

Off of Modlites own website

• Made and assembled in the USA
• Drivers are fully potted and tested to withstand select fire SCAR 17 recoil.
• Lifetime guarantee
• Approximately 1350 out the front lumens and candela is approximately 54,000. It is an excellent overall light head good for indoor or outdoor use.
• 6061 Series Alum bezel with Mil-Spec Hard Anodizing.
• Ultra clear BOROFLOAT® lens allows 98-99% light transmittance.

We recommend the KeepPower 18350 high drain cells which can be found here. Runtime is about 35 minutes with the supplied 18350 cells.

Modlite PLHv2-18350 Light Package

This light package contains a PLHv2-light head, 18350 body and tail cap. It also includes a single Modlite 1200mAh 18350 battery and a XTAR MC2 charger. While lumen output with this light is similar to the Surefire® M600DF head the throw is much better suited to a rifle mounted application at...

modlite.com

 

[Podmonkey]

Off of Modlites own website

• Made and assembled in the USA
• Drivers are fully potted and tested to withstand select fire SCAR 17 recoil.
• Lifetime guarantee
• Approximately 1350 out the front lumens and candela is approximately 54,000. It is an excellent overall light head good for indoor or outdoor use.
• 6061 Series Alum bezel with Mil-Spec Hard Anodizing.
• Ultra clear BOROFLOAT® lens allows 98-99% light transmittance.

We recommend the KeepPower 18350 high drain cells which can be found here. Runtime is about 35 minutes with the supplied 18350 cells.

No, for the pistol version.

 

[Edwardteach72]

No, for the pistol version.

That would still be the same info for the pistol.

Why would it be any different

 

[Will556]

I still think the new InForce WILD2 is something I will look into. It has superior light output and its made entirely out of 6061 Aluminum.
I wonder what the specs for the upcoming Modlight PL30 will be?

The PL350 destroys the Inforce. The PL350 is technically a weapon mounted light body that accepts the PLHv2 or OKW head. So think of either 1350 lumens w/ 54,000 candela or 680 lumens w/ 69,000 candela on your pistol.

 

[Will556]

The PL350 destroys the Inforce. The PL350 is technically a weapon mounted light body that accepts the PLHv2 or OKW head. So think of either 1350 lumens w/ 54,000 candela or 680 lumens w/ 69,000 candela on your pistol.

For pistol, I’m pretty sure I’d go PLHv2 offering. Still plenty of candela and more for pistol shooting ranges with a good amount of flood.

 

[Edwardteach72]

For pistol, I’m pretty sure I’d go PLHv2 offering. Still plenty of candela and more for pistol shooting ranges with a good amount of flood.

If I had an OKW head I'd toss it on there for the lulz from time to time. But the PLHv2 is going to be king of handgun lights, with the only negative being run time and that's honestly not a negative imho

 

[Podmonkey]

I disagree with the notion of candela being everything. For the private citizen I think needing to push through bright lights is something that is less likely than tge need to illuminate a large area at short distance. If I have to use a light indoors, the most likely self defense scenario, I want the whole room lit up and avoid missing the bad guy lurking in a corner outside my pencil beam. I think a lot of the stuff Sage Dynamics talks about is for LE situations. I don't see myself ever holding down on a heavily backlit assailant. It will be someone who has busted in my door or someone who accost me within spitting distance.
I have tested out my PLHv2 vs my FW3a EDC light. The FW3A has so much output with so much spill there is not an unlit corner or crevice that tge spill doesn't get to. Not as much the case with the PLHv2.

 

[Edwardteach72]

I disagree with the notion of candela being everything. For the private citizen I think needing to push through bright lights is something that is less likely than tge need to illuminate a large area at short distance. If I have to use a light indoors, the most likely self defense scenario, I want the whole room lit up and avoid missing the bad guy lurking in a corner outside my pencil beam. I think a lot of the stuff Sage Dynamics talks about is for LE situations. I don't see myself ever holding down on a heavily backlit assailant. It will be someone who has busted in my door or someone who accost me within spitting distance.

Candela is important for civilian, civilians also have to defeat photonic barriers just as much or even more as civilians..

Vehicle lights, street lights, parking lights (parking garages) store/building lights.

Candela is what defeats that not lumens.

With that being said once again the PLHv2 crushes all the other offerings in the lumens department not just the candela department .

1,350 candela VS the next closest competitor with 1,000

So again if you aren't as worried about candela but lumens once again the PLHv2 is 350 lumens over any of the other legitimate options out there.

 

[Edwardteach72]

Hell I've used my handheld jokingly inside at work (extremely well lit factory) and im easily able to push that plhv2 50-76 yards inside

 

[Podmonkey]

Candela is important for civilian, civilians also have to defeat photonic barriers just as much or even more as civilians..

Vehicle lights, street lights, parking lights (parking garages) store/building lights.

Candela is what defeats that not lumens.

With that being said once again the PLHv2 crushes all the other offerings in the lumens department not just the candela department .

1,350 candela VS the next closest competitor with 1,000

So again if you aren't as worried about candela but lumens once again the PLHv2 is 350 lumens over any of the other legitimate options out there.

For tge record I hate the term "photonic barrier" I hate all pseudointellectual techobabble. It's rampant in the miltary and in "tactical" circles and it's all designed in an attempt to make dumb people sound intelligent. We are talking about light washout. Very simple. And talking about candela VS lumens is as dumb as Horsepower VS Torque. You need both figures to get tge whole performance pictures, one is not inherently superior to the other.
If I shine a super intense beam that fails to illuminate the bad guy of yo my side, that's bad and, IMO, the more likely scenario to a private citizen than having to light up someone standing in front of a bright light. This is why I want a balanced performance. The PLHv2 comes close to this, honestly I'd prefer a more dispersed beam with about twice the lumens to compensate.

 

[Edwardteach72]

Actually never mind, I deleted my last 3 comments I'm done with this thread.

Go ahead and buy a lower quality, less usable light for all I care, enjoy the wild 2

 

[Will556]

For tge record I hate the term "photonic barrier" I hate all pseudointellectual techobabble. It's rampant in the miltary and in "tactical" circles and it's all designed in an attempt to make dumb people sound intelligent. We are talking about light washout. Very simple. And talking about candela VS lumens is as dumb as Horsepower VS Torque. You need both figures to get tge whole performance pictures, one is not inherently superior to the other.
If I shine a super intense beam that fails to illuminate the bad guy of yo my side, that's bad and, IMO, the more likely scenario to a private citizen than having to light up someone standing in front of a bright light. This is why I want a balanced performance. The PLHv2 comes close to this, honestly I'd prefer a more dispersed beam with about twice the lumens to compensate.

I would have to say that I’m pretty sure John Chapman who originated the term “Photonic Barriers” or Aaron Cowan are far from dumb people. Neither are the people at B.E. Meyers who also use the term who are industry leaders in lighting. Either way even if you want to call it light washout, it’s still exists. You’re also comparing apples to oranges with the two lights. The one has 2,800 lumens and only 10,000 candela. Of course the 2,800 lumen light is going to have much more flood since that’s what it’s designed to do. It also only stays at 2,800 lumens for 10 seconds before it needs to step down to 900 lumens (and who knows what candela rating) because of heat. The FW3a is also just a handheld light and has no viable option to be a pistol light which is what you’re looking for. You can find all kinds of lights with the kind of specs that the FW3a has in the flashlight community, but that doesn’t make it a good choice for a defensive light. I also disagree that the normal citizen doesn’t want the same light as LE, they can and do end up in the same situations that LE do and benefit from the same gear. Couldn’t the argument be made with that style of ideology that since you don’t see yourself being in the situation where the assailant is no more than spitting distance away from you than...why do you own rifles?

 

[Podmonkey]

@Edwardteach72, @Will555, regarding my previous comments- Apparently somebody pissed in my Cheerrios that morning, puts a damper on the day really. However we all pop off occasionally, go off on a rant. Cut me some slack eh?

 

[Will556]

@Edwardteach72, @Will555, regarding my previous comments- Apparently somebody pissed in my Cheerrios that morning, puts a damper on the day really. However we all pop off occasionally, go off on a rant. Cut me some slack eh?

 

[Will556]

 

[Podmonkey]

I'm a ModLight man now, through and through. Modlight is the only light there is.

 

[Will556]

I'm a ModLight man now, through and through. Modlight is the only light there is.

Modlite definitely makes great lights. It just sucks having to buy all the accessories for it since everything is separate. Especially if you try and bring it up to par with what Cloud Defensive offers with their entire kit.

 

[Podmonkey]

Modlite definitely makes great lights. It just sucks having to buy all the accessories for it since everything is separate. Especially if you try and bring it up to par with what Cloud Defensive offers with their entire kit.

Up to par? For me Modlight is superior.
My personal, for me, theory on weapon lights is this:
I am not in the military anymore, I'm not a cop, I'm not an operator. I am a private citizen and that is all I want to be. I don’t need the super versatile, ultra tactical light set ups. I just want a light period. I use my guns for recreation more than anything else so I don't want a big heavy light and wires all over to get in the way of that. With my non dominant eye the way it is I don't even need a pressure pad centrally mounted, I can't aim off side so I don't need any ambi, shoulder switching setups. I just want something slim, trim, light and simple. Tge Modlights on an Arisaka mount is just that precisely. I'll stick with them. Only problem is the high price.

 

[Edwardteach72]

Modlite PLHv2 and Rein stats are almost identical

But the Rein (complete kit) is about $50 more than just a PLHV2 light head and body. but comes with Light, mount, tail cap, and tape switch.

To get a Modlite to equal the same as a Rein Package, you will have to add a Surefire DS00 ($100-120) , a mount ($50+), and a tape switch ($50+)

So while stats wise both lights are really close, the Modlite will cost much more to get on par as a Rein package

 

[Will556]

Up to par? For me Modlight is superior.
My personal, for me, theory on weapon lights is this:
I am not in the military anymore, I'm not a cop, I'm not an operator. I am a private citizen and that is all I want to be. I don’t need the super versatile, ultra tactical light set ups. I just want a light period. I use my guns for recreation more than anything else so I don't want a big heavy light and wires all over to get in the way of that. With my non dominant eye the way it is I don't even need a pressure pad centrally mounted, I can't aim off side so I don't need any ambi, shoulder switching setups. I just want something slim, trim, light and simple. The Modlights on an Arisaka mount is just that precisely. I'll stick with them. Only problem is the high price.

You know you can get a REIN with no pressure switch and have zero wires as well right? When you say you don’t want wires all over the place, that sounds more like an issue with Modlite than Cloud itself because Cloud’s cable management is superior to Modlite 100% since Modlite doesn’t offer any. Just because you aren’t a operator, cop, or in the military doesn’t mean that you can’t benefit from having a more robust light. The one thing I’ll give you is the REIN is heavier than their Modlite counterparts but that’s only because the REIN’s are built stronger, for example the Modlite’s 6061 aluminum bezel to the REIN’s S7 tool steel bezel. The Modlite doesn’t way that much less than a REIN. An 18650 OKW (w/ battery) weighs 5.4oz, an 18650 REIN (w/battery) weighs 6.9oz.

-The REIN’s weapon mounted versions come straight from Cloud with a rear button activation that can be used as temporary and constant on. If you wanted that feature with a Modlite, you better pay the additional $100-$120 for a Surefire DS00 (when you’re lucky enough to find it in stock and jump on them fast).

-The REIN’s have field replaceable/serviceable lens just by unscrewing the head, swapping lens and o-ring, tighten it back down. If you need to do that with a Modlite, you now have to buy their proprietary tool (though it’s cheap and hopefully you keep it nearby if you have to use it).

-The REIN’s come with the internal battery Jack that tightens down on the battery to make sure you keep 100% connectivity and the light will never flicker.

-Modlite’s have an IPX8 rated for 24hrs at 2 meters...but that’s only guaranteed with their push button tailcap but if you use any Surefire tailcaps/pressure switches, they can’t guarantee any IPX rating. The REIN’s have an IPX8 rating up to 100ft WITH the included pressure switch.

-The REIN’s come with their LCS pressure switch which allows for momentary and constant on. If you want to do that with a Modlite your only option that allows the full power of the Modlite is you have to buy a a Unity Hotbutton, which is another $100 on top of the cost of the Modlite and the DS00 tailcap. Not to mention that the REIN’s LCS also has the nicest integrated cable management system and you can tuck the wire directly underneath it and has exit cutouts in multiple locations to allow the cable to come out where you choose to. The REIN’s rear tail button is also able to be rotated in 90 degree increment to allow you to change the angle in which the cable exits the rear. You can also completely sever the LCS pressure switch cable and the rear button on the REIN continues to work because it’s on its own circuit.

-So you’re looking at spending $280 for the light itself, $120 for the DS00, another $100 for the Unity Hotbutton to bring you to a total of around $500 to get a Modlite to be able to have the same activation features as a REIN but still have a worse IPX and Impact rating and still have zero cable management included. Now add anywhere from $50-$75 (possibly more depending on which company you go with) to the cost and now your pushing $550 or more compared to the REIN’s $340 complete kit.

 

[Podmonkey]

You know you can get a REIN with no pressure switch and have zero wires as well right? When you say you don’t want wires all over the place, that sounds more like an issue with Modlite than Cloud itself because Cloud’s cable management is superior to Modlite 100% since Modlite doesn’t offer any. Just because you aren’t a operator, cop, or in the military doesn’t mean that you can’t benefit from having a more robust light. The one thing I’ll give you is the REIN is heavier than their Modlite counterparts but that’s only because the REIN’s are built stronger, for example the Modlite’s 6061 aluminum bezel to the REIN’s S7 tool steel bezel. The Modlite doesn’t way that much less than a REIN. An 18650 OKW (w/ battery) weighs 5.4oz, an 18650 REIN (w/battery) weighs 6.9oz.

-The REIN’s weapon mounted versions come straight from Cloud with a rear button activation that can be used as temporary and constant on. If you wanted that feature with a Modlite, you better pay the additional $100-$120 for a Surefire DS00 (when you’re lucky enough to find it in stock and jump on them fast).

-The REIN’s have field replaceable/serviceable lens just by unscrewing the head, swapping lens and o-ring, tighten it back down. If you need to do that with a Modlite, you now have to buy their proprietary tool (though it’s cheap and hopefully you keep it nearby if you have to use it).

-The REIN’s come with the internal battery Jack that tightens down on the battery to make sure you keep 100% connectivity and the light will never flicker.

-Modlite’s have an IPX8 rated for 24hrs at 2 meters...but that’s only guaranteed with their push button tailcap but if you use any Surefire tailcaps/pressure switches, they can’t guarantee any IPX rating. The REIN’s have an IPX8 rating up to 100ft WITH the included pressure switch.

-The REIN’s come with their LCS pressure switch which allows for momentary and constant on. If you want to do that with a Modlite your only option that allows the full power of the Modlite is you have to buy a a Unity Hotbutton, which is another $100 on top of the cost of the Modlite and the DS00 tailcap. Not to mention that the REIN’s LCS also has the nicest integrated cable management system and you can tuck the wire directly underneath it and has exit cutouts in multiple locations to allow the cable to come out where you choose to. The REIN’s rear tail button is also able to be rotated in 90 degree increment to allow you to change the angle in which the cable exits the rear. You can also completely sever the LCS pressure switch cable and the rear button on the REIN continues to work because it’s on its own circuit.

-So you’re looking at spending $280 for the light itself, $120 for the DS00, another $100 for the Unity Hotbutton to bring you to a total of around $500 to get a Modlite to be able to have the same activation features as a REIN but still have a worse IPX and Impact rating and still have zero cable management included. Now add anywhere from $50-$75 (possibly more depending on which company you go with) to the cost and now your pushing $550 or more compared to the REIN’s $340 complete kit.

I just run a tail switch, that's all I want. I want nothing to do with any cabling whatsoever. The Cloud Defensive stuff is a little too bulky for me.
Basically I want a light that's like having nothing out there on tge end of my rifle till I actually need it, which would be a tiny percentage of the time.

 

[Will556]

I just run a tail switch, that's all I want. I want nothing to do with any cabling whatsoever. The Cloud Defensive stuff is a little too bulky for me.
Basically I want a light that's like having nothing out there on tge end of my rifle till I actually need it, which would be a tiny percentage of the time.

Many if not most people run their weapon mounted lights with pressure switches because they want to maintain the ability to be ambidextrous. It’s really difficult to activate a rear tailcap on a weapon mounted light when you swap hands, if not practically impossible especially in a stressful situation. I’m not bashing Modlite, I like them...I have one. I eventually plan on putting my 18350 OKW on my 9” 300blk. I’m just pointing out the differences between the two and that there are definitely places where Cloud is superior. You can run your setup any which way you prefer my dude. You can also get a standard REIN for sub $300 (comes with the tailcap and charger), the standard Modlite’s are like $280 but don’t come with a tailcap or charger. You have to add those extra, now you’re looking at around $310ish I believe. But like I said I’m never gonna say Modlite is a bad light and whichever one you choose you’re not going to be wrong.

 

[togmaster]

I'm still thinking the Streamlight Protac HLX may be the best bang for the buck. Output isn't in the class of Modlite or CD but it is probably good enough for me.